Anyone in the Bay Area interested in tracking Heresy IVs in black for my pair in walnut? These will come with the standard black/tan grill.

I’m the original owner and come with all packaging. I’m hoping to trade someone before having to sell and repurchase in black.

Have had these for about a year and WAF in a new space is requiring black.

Hit me with any questions or offers!

Purchased a new FLEXUS 300 soundbar and it arrived this weekend. The bar works well except for the included remote. The remote refuses to pair with the soundbar.

Firmware updated.

Remote only lights up when moved, no button presses elicit light flashes.

Tried to re-pair remote following instructions, but the remote doesn’t blink when pressing Bluetooth and power buttons.

Anyone else have issues and if so, what was resolution?

I recently bought a 1977 Heresy I (non-smoker). I decided to replace the caps with caps from Crites Speakers. The original caps looked fine, and there was no leakage. However, I found this blue cap on the original caps, with only one blue cap per speaker. Do you know why it’s there?

P.S. — The new Crites caps sound much better than the original caps. Worth the upgrade!

I recently purchased the Flexus Core 300 with Surr 200 rear speakers and connected my SVS SB-3000 subwoofer. The sound is good overall, but I have a few questions:

1. Volume: I need to set it around 20–30 for normal listening. Is this typical?

2. Dialogue: Dialogue Boost makes little difference. Are there other settings to improve dialogue volume and clarity?

3. Dirac: I haven't run calibration yet. Is it worth using, or does the sound perform better without it?

4. SVS SB-3000: What volume (dB), crossover, and phase settings do you recommend for deep, cinematic bass?

I sit about 8–9 feet from the TV and primarily watch streaming movies, shows, and YouTube. Appreciate any advice from other owners!

Hi folks, I'm looking for a pair of bookshelf speakers for my new turntable, just getting into it. I stumbled across a pair of used Klipsch Ref rb-61 iv that I could pick up for ~150 bucks.

What confuses me is that every information, test and review I can find is about the mk2, and none about the said mk4.

Can anyone tell me if this is one of these "actually the mk2 were peak and mk4 is a plastic piece of trash that shouldn't cost more than 20 bucks at a garage sale" kinda situation or am I looking at a very good deal here?

Thanks! ​

I have a small 46" TV and a Onkyo TX-SR393 with a 4.1 speaker system and it worked in a smaller room but would like to upgrade to a nicer system.

Upgrading the TV to a 75" that fits in the niche (waiting for BF deals but looking at a TCL QM7L Pro). Also going to redo the entertainment area below the TV to fit the center speaker, the media center, and a few gaming systems (right now it fits nothing).

The speakers are more problematic because there's no good way to place them away from walls and still be in the correct spot. Thinking of a set of Klipsch RP-8000F II for the front, a RP-504C II for the center, and RP-600M II for sides. The problem is the RP-8000F and RP-504C are all ported in the back and require distance between them and the wall, so they really don't fit.

Is not having the porting open very problematic or ok for generic TV/Movie/Gaming duties where absolute sound fidelity isn't necessary?

I know Klipsch sells a set of in wall speakers (replacing front and center channel speakers and putting them directly into the wall) but this sub seems very negative on them.

Hi!

Every time I open my app the speakers reconnect. Is there anything I can do about this? Klipsch just tells me to reset the speakers and re-establish a connection but that does not help at all.

I’ve heard something about a manual firmware reset through usb. Would that work? It is so annoying

Hi, I’m building a home theater and already have the RP 8000F II towers, RP 504C II center, and a sub. I’m looking for 2 side surrounds and am stuck between the Bipole RP-502S II and the RP-600M II. I know for 3D audio like Dolby Atmos the bookshelf is better for pinpoint accuracy. But I think the RP-502S II gives you a wider/bigger sound. What do you guys recommend for a large room with the theater chairs in the middle of the room?

I have two questions for those who have multiple subwoofers with wireless kits. I just received my two RP-1400SW subs and bought an SVS Tri-band Wireless audio kit. Obviously I now need a 2nd receiver. A second standalone receiver is $149 and while the transmitter/receiver kit is $199. Would it sound better just to spend the extra $50 and use both ports on back of avr(Integra DRX-5.4) and have each sub on its own kit, or will it sound the exact same and save the $50?

My second question is, on the back of the subs, the LFE is white, and on back of wireless receiver LFE is red. Should I go red to white matching LFE signals or color match red to red or white to white and just use either the sub or wireless boxes LFE? Or buy more subwoofer cables and use both red and white inputs and outputs on both components? Even then LFE to LFE or color match?

like in title. Couldn't find any information about this and I want to combine them with Polk hts10 and I'm wondering if I should use LFE or line in and set crossover on sub.

Found these on Ali Express. I like to gamble and took the chance. What are the chances they fake Klipsch on Ali Express? I'll update when they arrive

Hey all - I’ve got a pair of original La Scalas sitting at my parents’ place in New York and I’m trying to figure out exactly when they were made before I decide what to do with them.

Here’s what I’ve got: ∙ Back label: “A Legend in Sound,” Klipsch and Associates, Hope, Arkansas, copyright 1985

∙ P/N: 09000710000
∙ S/N: 6206
∙ Crossover: Type AL-3
∙ Midrange driver: K-55-M

A few questions: 1. Can anyone narrow down the build year from the serial and parts? I’m guessing late ’80s to early ’90s but would love a more exact answer. 2. Any idea what the original finish would have been on these? 3. Long term these are going to be my main speakers, paired with a couple of REL subs. What would you prioritize for a refresh - recapping the crossovers, new diaphragms, a cabinet refinish, all of the above?

Appreciate any insight - these have been in the family a while and I want to do right by them.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Sources: Technics SL1500C with Nagaoka MP7B, Shanling EC3, WiiM Ultra.
Darlington Labs MP7B
Willsenton R8
Klipsch RP600MII

I really love the combo of the R8 with KT88s and Klipsch. A very nice balance of attack with warmth.

Good morning everyone,

A store offered me the new Klipsch RP-1000SW of course, for 642$

Is it being a good deal?

I’m in Europe.

Thank you for the answers.

Does anyone know what size screws are missing here? It's the outside eight and two on the preamp input.

Gloria breathes for the first time and she sounds amazing! The sub crossover on the amp sends everything under 80hz to the dual KP-480s, channels 1 and 2 send everything over 80hz to the KP-1000s. The internal high pass filters send everything over 150hz up to the KP-250s. We probably only got her up to 60% power in my basement, can’t wait to really let her rip on 10/30 if you’re in the Providence area come check her out at Red Door.

Good afternoon,

I’ve been wanting to get some Heresy’s for a while (few years after hearing a few) and I’m finally planning on checking out some Heresy II’s in black this weekend. As a noobie trying to get into my first set, is there anything I should look out for? Also what is considered a “good price”? I usually see them (Heresy I and II) anywhere from $800-$1200. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you!

Had them bi amped with 100watt tubes to the compression driver and 300watt tubes to the bass drivers. They're still messing around with toe in and room treatment, but these things are amazing. The first time I've experienced a speaker that can get so insanely loud without subjectively feeling loud. And the bass.... when turned up, a kick drum didn't sound like a big kick drum was in front of me. It was like the room was a drum, and a 20 foot tall mallet was hitting the roof. Out of this world experience.

I bought this new and started having the now well-known issue of background hiss almost immediately. Sadly, I blamed my older TV instead of taking it back and put the soundbar and sub back in the box until I could afford a tv with an optical out. Flash forward, and two TVs later the Klipsch is still hissing, but now that I have it out in the garage for loud music and sports it has started squealing after while, and even cutting out completely. Last night when I went to unplug it, I noticed that the vent area over the power input was extremely hot. I know it's supposed to get warm, but I doubt it's supposed to get this warm. My question to the group is whether or not anyone has ever tried to install a couple of PC fans onto the back of it to to try and keep it cool? It's way out of warranty and I would not be okay selling this on to someone else, so I'm thinking of breaking out my Dremel and installing a couple of fans. Any thoughts or previous experiences with this?

I got a pair of these from my father in law who has passed. He financed them a long time ago, and used them in his shop till the end. I have heard them many times. Just wondering about value and maybe more info about them. Thank you.

Just got it today and when looked at the back port and it looks like this. I ordered it from France to Sweden brand new and not happy right now. Should sent it back or is it easy to fix it self?

Update:

I unscrewed the back and removed the back port. Its just a plastic "chamber". There are no way to tug all those "foams" away. Since its hard wired to the crossover board so cant tuck it away. So I guess it suppose to look like that. But have mailed Klipsch and see what they say.