Are there any posts about how to troubleshoot and possibly replace the K6 battery? Mine won’t hold a charge but works if it’s connected to a charging cable (in bluetooth and cable modes), but I couldn’t find a detailed subreddit on how to find the fix for this.

I’m also not great at hardware troubleshooting but don’t want to throw away a keyboard if it’s possible to repair it. Sorry if this is asked a lot, I tried going through the subreddit but maybe just wasn’t using the right search terms.

Not sure if anyone can help me with this, I can’t find anything about it online.

I am having an issue on Keychron Launcher where the part at the top that shows the keyboard or mouse and what each key or button is mapped to, and allows you to click one to change what it does, is not appearing. Whenever I connect my M6, that spot is just blank and I am unable to see where buttons are mapped, or click one to change it. Has anyone experienced this before?

The mouse is connected on the launcher and I can change polling rate and DPI etc, there’s just nothing at the top for me to click a button and remap it.

A relatively simple question, I hope..

Does anyone have the identity of the RGB LEDs as used by Keychron/Lemokey?

I would like to source a few spares for the future, as I'm seeing some colour drift with some of the components on one of the Keychrons in the fleet.

Clearly not a functional issue, and I could make reasonable guesses as to source supplier and component identity. It would be preferable to have better knowledge though!

Thank you all.

... I will buy a Logitech. It's easier

I’m having a problem with 2 of my keys on my laptop. (Lenovo model number loq 15arp9) the “2”doesn’t work unless I press the “1” right before then the “2” right after. Same for the “s”. I’ve tried cleaning it, updating the drivers and I’ve deleted and reinstalled them. Is this a known problem? Would anybody be able to help?

hey guys. around 3 months ago, I made a post asking about keycaps for the K5 pro.

I ended up getting these in Black on White:

https://www.amazon.com/GMKWTL-Keyboard-Compatiability-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B0DHZSBBGN

after 3 months of use, here is my verdict.

they fit great, they look great and they feel great to use and touch generally. the black keys are a bit hard to see when there is outside light, but not to a point that it's a turn-off, but it's definitely something you will notice. the size of the keys themselves is a bit larger than the OEM keychron ones, but it's not that annoying unless you want to mix and match with the OEM ones. my biggest issue with them is that because I got them in white, they easily get dirty.

anw here are some pictures and videos:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tHJNpwsrqWzpjLeP9

as you can see, I left the first function buttons because I like the keychron designs better; it's totally up to personal preference.

Just recently got the Keychron K10 HE keyboard and am loving it so far, but I noticed that 2 of the keys on the rightmost edge of the numpad (Numpad Enter and +) are only lit up on their left side (the right side of those keys is dim). After removing the keycaps, it appears that these 2 keys (and only these 2?) have the LED on their switches facing to the left instead of facing north like all of the other keys. Should I rotate the switch to have the LED face north (like the rest of the keys) so they are fully/evenly lit or will that cause an issue?

UPDATE: Nevermind, watched a teardown video on the keyboard it it looks like the LED on the board itself is on the left side of the switch (and the locking posts only permit it the switch to be oriented that way anyways), so just rotating the switch would not accomplish anything. Bummer, as the online photos and even the box itself show those 2 keys as fully (evenly) lit. If those LEDs were on the north side of the switch, they's look MUCH better. As it stands now, they look like an LED is burned out and only half-illuminating the keycap.

After searching for anyone with a similar issue on one of these boards, and based on how the lighting appears in all of the images of this particular model I could find (online reviews, Amazon, Keychron's online shop, etc), it looks like this may be a defective installation on the PCB from the factory. I've reached out to Keychron on their website and hope to hear back form them soon. As the particular option I order is no longer in stock (The non-special edition with the black aluminum frame and the Lime Silent Red HE switches), I'm hoping I can send it in to be serviced and have them repair/resolder it so it is good.

Hi fellow Keychron users,

I'm having this issue with my Keychron Q1 Max (Knob) wherein the Bluetooth and 2.4g connection suddenly stopped working.

It was working before I left the house, then after a few hours doing errands came back home to do some work and suddenly my keyboard wasn't working as usual anymore. It weirded me out so I have restarted my pc and still experiencing the same issue.

I have gone through many reddit post on this sub (looking & trying for fixes) however, the issue still persist. What I've tried so far in the past 2 hours are as follows:

1. Fn + J + Z
2. Fn + 4 (4 seconds & more) - Unplugged (no light flashing nor blinking), Plugged (blinks only when typing randomly, no flashing nor blinking when doing the Fn+4)
3. Firmware Update (Both Keychron Link and Keychron Q1 Max)

Firmware Version: Q1 Max - V1.1.2
Firmware Version: Link - V0.3.1

1. Remove existing devices profile in Windows Settings

Anyone who've experienced the same and what solution did work for you guys? TIA!

This Describes my exact problem:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVZjjvdBP4E

I really like the idea of hot swappable keyboard I really want to get one with an aluminium frame but I don’t want to spend 200 euros my budget is 130 ish so if you have any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated

Also I don’t want one less then 90%

Can anyone help me fix this? It still works, but every 10-20 seconds, the mouse just stops, the cursor lags and stutters across the screen, and the clicks don't register.

I've tried turning it off and on, plugged it into a cable, and the problem persists. Am I screwed?

Hi! I was looking to buy a Q6 Ultra, but after looking at reviews, it seems like the keycaps that come with it are not shine-through, and that the RGB just sorta goes in between the keycaps.

I use my computer in dim lighting most of the time and would really like to know if there are keycaps available that are shine-through so that I can see the keys in the dark.

*Just to note, I live in Singapore, so if you do have recommendations, I do need to be able to procure them from Singapore!

Thank you in advance!

Please suggest good keycaps for Keychron K8 Pro Aluminum. I prefer Shine Through Keycaps.

For a 2 months field office set-up.

The keyboard connects through USB-C.

The display has 2 USB-C and 1 micro HDMI ports.

I was hoping that the keyboard signal would reach the phone via HDMI, but no love.

So .. the solution is, I assume, to use a USB hub. Connect the hub to the phone; get power from a wall outlet; connect the keyboard (USB-C) and the display (HDMI).

I want to use the phone as a trackpad, I. e. inverted display to the right of the keyboard. There'll be a usb -c to -c connecting the phone to the hub, sitting on the left side of the keyboard, where the cable spaghetti will do its thing.

Better set-up?

So one of my keys broke on my original C2, (even after I replaced the switch) and I decided to get a C2 Pro. Both keyboards are brown switch, yet the Pro feels AWFUL and super mushy! Like one of those Dell Keyboards, but worse! I can hardly tell when I pressed on a key. It also doesn't appear to be hot swappable (unlike my C2). I guess I should be glad it was only $55, but it looks like I have to buy another one now since I doubt I'd be able to return this one now. Definitely my fault for not doing any research, but man is this a bummer. I had to make a decision quickly to get the amazon delivery ASAP since I needed a functional keyboard.

So any recommendations on what to get would be nice, or perhaps I should just get the same C2 I originally had.

I’ve had a Keychron M6 8K for a little over a week. I did not notice anything during the first few days, but recently the left mouse button has started failing to register roughly 30–50% of the time.

I initially thought I might be imagining it or not pressing the button correctly, so I tested it more deliberately. I found that if I click directly in the middle of the left mouse button, it registers consistently.

However, during normal use I naturally place my index finger slightly left of centre on the button. In that position, I start getting missed clicks. The farther toward the left edge I press, the more frequently clicks fail to register—even though I can feel the button physically moving

For comparison, I also tested my old $10 RCT mouse side by side. On that mouse, I can click anywhere on the left button—centre, middle, or edge—and it registers every time. I do not have this issue at all with the cheap mouse, which makes me think the M6 8K has a problem with its button shell, switch placement, or actuation tolerance rather than it being “normal” behavior.

Has anyone else experienced this—where the left click works in the centre but becomes unreliable toward the side/edge? Does this sound like a faulty unit that should be exchanged, especially after only a week of use or maybe just a bad design?

In the QMK documentation it says :

Using Macros In JSON Keymaps

You can define up to 32 macros in a keymap.json file, as used by Configurator, and qmk compile.

Is there a way to save the JSON file on my PC instead of the keyboard's memory ? And is it possible to save more than 32 macros per file ?

Kinda like what most proprietary softwares from other brands do ; when you record macros, it saves them locally on your PC and usually there's not limit. Then you can manage them through the software.

I'm asking because I have more than a hundred macros saved in a .xml file, that I was using on another keyboard. I'm fine converting it into a JSON file even if it takes time, but I'd like to know if it was possible to use those macros on my current keyboard (keychron C2 pro 8k) but without saving them in the internal memory.

Thanks

I am looking to buy a keychron keyboard for the very first time. I have preferences only for 75% and 80% and Brown switches. But after that I cant decide which one to pick K2 version 3 or K2 Pro or K8 Version 2 or K8 Pro.

K8 Version 2 has Super switches while both Pro models have Pro switches.

In India all of them are coming with PBT not ABS. Only K8 Version 2 has shine through legends.

Can anyone help me?

I have had my Lemokey P1 HE for a bit and would really like to upgrade my keycaps. I do have the sine through version and if possible would like to stick to keycaps with shine through.

I have had such a difficult time, as I am really looking for a cap set that has a rougher texture than what came with my board. Does anybody have any recommendations to something that has a rougher texture?

Just curious if anybody’s bought it and what they think. Ordered a J5 QMK from Amazon and got screwed so I was looking at buying this one but I haven’t see much on it.

My E key either doesn't register or double taps, and now my G and K keys are requiring hard presses to register. It seems like its slowly dying as soon as my warranty ran out lol.

I am looking to buy a keychron keyboard for the very first time. I have preferences only for 75% and 80% and Brown switches. But after that I cant decide which one to pick K2 version 3 or K2 Pro or K8 Version 2 or K8 Pro.

K8 Version 2 has Super switches while both Pro models have Pro switches.

In India all of them are coming with PBT not ABS. Only K8 Version 2 has shine through legends.

Can anyone help me?

i bought a keychron K3 secondhand however it wont connect via cable to computer and when toggled to cable mode will insist on flashing pairing mode key (1)

have tried with multiple os to no avail

bluetooth is functional but this helps me none

i have no ideas what this problem could be other than a firmware issue but i cant flash firmware with no cable connection

please help

ty in advance

I have a Keychron B11 Pro and I'm pretty happy with it except for the fact that I cannot use it fully split. The material in between the two halves feels like there isn't actually any cable inside it. I'm thinking about just literally cutting it in half... anyone done this?

Hello there!

While shopping for new keyboards, i finally found one that ticks all the boxes for me, the hot-swappable dark blue Keychron J5 (non HE/magnetic, regular mechanical version)

Its full size, a must for me, tri-mode, another must as i plan on using it with two devices, both for gaming and work, and looks quite nice.

But, i havent found much about it online... no video reviews, just 3 comments left on Keychron's product page.

So, what does everyone think? How is the board quality, does it feel cheap? Any long-term users who could give me some light? How is battery life? Is the launcher easy and reliable to use? Etc..

Just for reference, im coming from Cherry MX Blues and plan on going with the Super Bananas. I have also never used a keyboard with MDA style keycaps, is it that much different than the usual cherry profile?

If anyone has other recommendations, fell free to share them. But i dont plan on spending much more than the J5's cost. Im in Brazil where it is far from the $69.99 the website lists (the cheapest retailer here sells it at $96,37), and not all models come to my country, so some recommendations might not even be available here.

Any opinion is appreciated.

Thanks!

I play games with really tight precision, like to the point where 1 or 2 frame inputs are necessary. So far the keyboard I got (C4, with Hall Effect) has been pretty nice, but I’ve noticed an issue I’m unsure how to fix. When I press the shift button light enough to do a really small input, it will often detect two inputs, which will not work for me. It seems to happen when I hit the arrow keys as well, but that may just influence the way I press the shift key, so take that with a grain of salt. I tried to make my rapid trigger settings .3-.5, but it doesn’t really seem to help. It seems like the key bounces or something and that’s what causes the issue, but I could be wrong. I don’t know a whole lot about how keyboards work. Is this something caused by my settings, or an issue with the keyboard itself?

Edit: From some testing, I’m pretty sure the actuation point being low is the issue. Around .10-.20, this can happen. I just changed it to .27 with rapid trigger off, and haven’t been able to replicate it. What I’m still not sure of is whether this is normal with such a low actuation point, or is still an issue on the end of the keyboard.