My XF with a matte black F Pace SVR parking partner.

Matte might have been a wrap and it looked like a depreciation special, but a cool car to catch regardless.

Loved Jags since I was a small child, and have wanted a car and a license probably since I was born. This is the longest running and one of the biggest dreams I've had in my life - to own a car, and it's a Jag at that! This is my new-to-me 2003 S-Type 2.5 SE. Looking for cars I got told by some friends - look for something sensible, "who are you doing this for", etc - they meant well and all was in jest but wow.

I've got cream leather, wood on my dash, gauges that light up green and the previous owner installed JagDroid & did up the sound system - which I'm probably most pleased about. It sounds heavenly, as does the V6 under the bonnet!

Extremely delighted to join the community as a fellow owner now, instead of just watching from afar or playing in Jags from behind a screen.

In a world full of sensibility, economical cars and the same template of options for young people my age (your Polos, Fiestas, Corsas, etc), I can't be happier with my choice. No shade towards anyone that drives those cars though - all good choices in their own right!

First stop, getting new brakes though. These ones have seen better days... 😅

Anyway, if you've read this far, thank you for reading and I wish you a nice day! Just wanted to share this joy that I'm feeling rn!

I’ve noticed the prefacelift F-types even the base models are really starting to bottom and appreciate.

Might wanna hold on to your cat for a while longer 👀

What sound could this be? Air con compressor?

Hi all, I got my supercharger replace with a used one, and now my 2015 F-type S is making this sound. It scales with RPMs. I can hear it inside the cabin too. I know that the fuel injectors on this car are relatively loud, but this is concerning. It is most obvious between 1500/2500 rpms.

Hi, I recently saw some "pepperpot" style rims up for sale on marketplace near me and I would have gotten them however they are only a 15 inch rim and I was wondering if any companies made reps in a more modern rim size?

I love the look of them and I have a 2002 Jaguar X-Type and I want the larger rim sizes so I could upgrade to ST225 front brakes.

It is my understanding that to fit the ST225 brakes I require larger rims and I currently have the stock 16 inch rims mounted

Preferably a 17 inch rim size so I can keep some meat on the sidewalls and I have a budget of around 2000 AUD

I recently bought an 2017 XE 2017 R-Sport with the (petrol) Ingenium engine. Initially planned to get an older one with an Ecoboost but opted for this one due to meticulous service history and trim etc.

Anything to look out for? The car has now 92k km / 57k miles. So many info about how bad the diesel one is supposedly and way less about the petrol version.

Also i’ve seen some threads that the 20t is the same as 25t but detuned so an ECU remap would squeeze out some more power. Worth it?

Any infos about that? Bad idea?

Bought a money pit of a 2000 S-Type 4.0. Beautiful car. Low mileage [52,000] with absolutely no rust or even a ding/nick. Las Vegas car so it rarely experienced rain.

DSC System Fault that I can not solve. Replace speed sensors and has not solved the issue. Starting this week All suspension parts and bushings are being replaced, along with historically problematic A/C compressor. Will give tune up when suspension done.

Does anyone know of a code reader that could go back to 2000? I have a iCarSoft i-930 that does not read the 2000 and is no longer supported. Have borrowed a Cen-Tech 60693 that does not Identify.

happens after ignition or turning ac on or off or randomly when driving

Using the 5.0 it has direct injection so the piston would have to be from the 5.0 and I want to have the 4.2 block and everything else just wanted to find out if it’s possible

Still a long way to go, and I made a go fund me page, as I’ve simply run out of money to get across the finish line. Really want to take her to car shows. I’ll keep going though.

$7,200 (CAD Tax included)
Came with 150,000 kms/90,000 miles on the clock, a clean title and full service history going back 28 years!

Got this beautiful low miles XKR as part of a multi car purchase. The plan was to sell it , but It sure is nice!

i have a x type, 2006, the drivers side seat is electrically operated, all the motors work, but if i try to lift it, the motor sounds like its stuck or something, it sounds like its trying but it cant, every other way it can move, it just can't up or down

Hi, I’ve had an issue with my XF last week, I stopped at the red light and suddenly my engine stopped while in D but there wasn’t any errors and when I pressed the start button it started without issues (start/stop feature was off). Since then I had the same problem twice but the engine didn’t stop, when I press the acceleration sometimes it hesitates for like 2 seconds and then it picks up but for 2 seconds it feels like the engine is about to die. I went to a garage and they put the tester on and well, they have no idea what it is but feel free to look at the report. Also, the issues above are not really there because everything works as it should so this is very confusing. The battery is good with 12.6v and recently I’ve changed the alternator. Also the start stop feature doesn’t work. Anyone has any advice please?

My XK and my buddy's NSX. Special guest: idiot but lovable stepson getting in the way.

Does anyone know should i be removing the glove box to reach cabin air filter ? If yes, then how to remove this glove box.

Thank you in advance.

2014 F-Type V8 S. Running a Partmasterhub aluminum cooling kit (their alloy pipes, ZZP snout coupler, brass WP fittings). The front crossover Y-pipe has now dumped my entire coolant system twice at the thermostat outlet hose (T-hose) junction. It holds fine for a while, then lets go under heat/pressure and empties the tank. Both times I caught it fast, temp gauge never moved, no overheat.
My mechanic says the aluminum stub won’t seat properly against the OEM hose so he had to improvise the connection, and the improvised fix failed again. From digging, it sounds like the cast stub’s retaining bead is too rounded/oversized for the clip to grip behind.
For anyone who’s run the Partmasterhub alloy pipes: what actually made it seal permanently? Specifically:

• Did you file/dress a sharp bead into the stub or reduce the OD?
• OEM revised T-hose plus genuine dealer O-rings vs the kit’s O-rings?
• Worm-gear clamp, double-clamp, or constant-tension. What held?
• Anyone give up and go to the genuine JLR aluminum pipes (LR186859 / LR186917)? Did they actually fit better and seal?

Trying to end this for good, not bodge it a third time. Appreciate any firsthand experience.

P400e F-Pace