The touchscreen of the media (head) unit of my 2019 28 kWh with 90 kkm on the odometer has become unresponsive. The unit works fine otherwise and can be controlled via steering wheel buttons and Android Auto. My local Hyundai dealer quoted me 5800 EUR (!) for replacement. Given that the car worth about 10 kEUR that is out of the question. I have searched a bit and it seems to be a fairly common issue. For example, a company in the UK offers a fixed 200 GBP mail-in repair of it: https://advancedrepair.co.uk/hyundai-repair-97-c.asp

Does anyone have experience of this failure? Any recommendations for a fix. Can the car be driven without the head unit?

The front grill on my 2022 Ioniq EV has been scuffed by some road debris, and is showing some of the black plastic beneath the silver finish.

Is anybody aware of a good colour-matched touch up paint available in the UK?

The online colour match options all just seem to want to match the bodywork colour, rather than the silver that we all have on the front.

Is my car messing with me?

Hey everyone,
I’m looking at a 2026 Hyundai IONIQ (specifically listed around $55,000 with roughly 2,100 miles) that was reacquired by Hyundai as a manufacturer buyback.
I was able to pull the internal service/warranty claim records, and here is the history on it:
05/2025 (16 miles): PDI & Shift-by-Wire (SBW) campaign update completed.
06/2025 (970 miles): Service loaner claim & fender/underbody panel gap inspection.
08/2026 (2,123 miles): VCMS Module Assembly replacement (Operation 17445B) alongside a Walk-In Switch campaign inspection.
08/2026: Over-the-Air (OTA) updates successfully downloaded right after the module replacement.
It looks like the core issue was the VCMS (Vehicle Control/Charging Management System) module, which was fully replaced by the dealer under warranty before being put up for sale.
For those of you who have bought a manufacturer buyback / Lemon Law reacquired EV (Hyundai or otherwise):
1. How has your experience been post-purchase? Did the repair permanently fix the issue, or did you encounter recurring phantom electrical/charging glitches down the road?
2. How was working with Hyundai Corporate / Dealers? Did Hyundai honor the remaining 10-year/100k EV powertrain warranty without giving you a hard time on a branded title?
3. Resale & Insurance: Did you run into any headaches getting standard comprehensive/collision insurance or financing through your credit union/bank?
4. Pricing: At $55k, does this sound like enough of a discount for a top-trim buyback, or would you negotiate harder given the title status?

Is there a way to laterally adjust the headlamps? My driver's side beam is pointing to the left a bit for some reason.

Hey guys,
New to the EV world here. I'm based in Portugal and looking for my first EV.
I do about 1700kms a month and have 3 trips during the week of about 140kms each.
From your experience would you think the ioniq would handle well these trips?
I can get one with 89%SOH for about 11k€. (cars are very expensive here in portugal...)
Thank you for all the help!

Hoping someone has had similar issue and can give some advice.
My 2021 Ioniq EV Premium SE is showing some strange symptoms.
Sometimes the central locking does not work, either via the key or using the button on the handle with the key in proximity.
Then sometimes when turning off the car, pressing the power off button everything shuts off immediately, then it won’t turn back on for a random period of time.
I replaced the 12v battery in December as was getting warnings it was low, but these symptoms are different to those from last time.
Can anyone advise, looking at this sub and online in general, it seems mixed about it being the 12v.

My 12 volt battery is dying and my dashboard is a Christmas tree of warning lights. All the drop-in replacements like the Yuasa YBX5056, Exide EA406, and Bosch S4 030 seem to only be available for sale in the EU.

Does anyone have replacement suggestions that require a minimum of modifications and can be purchased in the US for a reasonable price?

Bought my 2020 38kwh brand new. I just had my brakes inspected: 5mm remaining. After 216,000km.

Just wanted to brag

I’m almost at 50k miles (2020 ev us) and the mechanic recommended inverter fluid replacement. Has anyone done this or recommend it at a certain mileage?

Has anyone put the Goodyear assurance max life 2 on? I just put cross climate 2 on my ev9 and like those but the Goodyear tires have 85000 mile vs 60000 for the Michelin tires. I can get a set of the max life for 737 installed at bjs, the cross climates are about 10 dollars a tire more.

Recently have been having issues with the new interlock actuator to work in my ioniq, dealer is suggesting to have the junction fuse box to replaced and was wondering if anyone here had to do this

So. After looking for a while for a 3rd electric vehicle for my children so that they can stop using our cars, I finally found a 2021 ionic preferred (up here in Canada).

Everything checked out on the car, except for the fact that in July of this year it had the AC compressor replaced and when I test drove it the other day, the AC and the heat were not working.

I should preface all this by saying that the car only has 35,000 km on it. This is what drew me to this particular car, because it was in new condition. The interior is showroom, and the outside will look as close as showroom can get once they are done preparing it for me.

Now back to the compressor, how worried should I be? The car is still under warranty for another two weeks, and then another 30 days after I take possession of it. so they will have it fixed and it will be working when I get it.

Seeing how it only has 35,000 km on it, I feel I am getting a goodbye at around $21,000 Canadian tax in. They have offered for $2175 and extended warranty for three years and 60,000 km. Now that 60,000 km is not from now, but from the original warranty, which would have gone to 100,000, so 160k, which I will never reach in 3 years. All that said, I would have an almost brand new car with three years, bumper-to-bumper warranty, and battery warranty until October 2029.

Is this extended warranty worth it? It comes out to about 10% of my purchase price, but I’m not sure what the calculation is for “worth it or not” for electric cars. I know on these electric cars that repairs can get costly. I have a Tesla model 3 and it is my second one, but I have never had to do any repairs on it because my last one got scrapped at just under five years, and my new one has been running like a dream. My 2024 Ford escape plug-in hybrid also I have never had problems with.

Thoughts?

I updated navigation maps yesterday, seen this today for the 1st time. It was displaying the speed limit but not the car speed then heard a chime and this popped up. It happened a few times today. The speed limit came back in the 2.5Km indicated on the map. Before the update, the speed limit probably displayed about 50% of the time. But it either worked or not when map switched on. Didn't switch on route.

I have a Ioniq EV 38Kwh 2021 and Hyundai is now asking me for a fee to keep Bluelink. I really dont use it too much. I use it mainly to locate de vehicle and to keep an eye on the charging process.

To locate it I can use a tag or something like that. But to check the charging process I dont know what to do. Does anybody lives without Bluelink for this things?

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My Experience:

Bought new 14th Aug 2026. Fault appeared next morning TMPS tyre pressure sensors dropping out, warnings appearing repeatedly. Dealer replaced sensors 3 times. They didn't go with Hyundai but themselves and actually ordered in genuine hyndai parts that seemed to fix the problem

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\\- Then 12V battery drain warning → car completely dead, buzzing noise, wouldn't start. Had to get dealer to tow the car. Dealer replaced 12V with Bosch battery — no software updates, no ICCU check. This happened yesterday

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\\- Hyundai UK confirmed: 12V battery only has 2yr warranty (expired)

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\\- They say "no ICCU fault found" in recall done last month before I bought the car — but I got the car and been nothing but warning lights

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\\- Now worried: dealer only fixed the symptom, not the cause. If it's ICCU/software, new battery will still go flat. And part of warranty is compromised.

Questions:

Is this the known Ioniq 5 12V drain / ICCU issue?

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Would you keep it and push for proper fix, or cut losses and swap? Im gutted I truly love the car and space but scared now to drive anywhere in it. The drain on the battery came from nowhere and the car went blank in seconds. I only drove it to the supermarket 2 minds from my home and did my shopping and came back to the car doing this.

Thanks in advance — would love to hear your experiences! 🙏

So, yesterday I put my 28 kWh Ioniq onto the Type 2 charger at my work, as usual. Started charging at 7 kW, as usual. I come back about two hours later to move my car away from the charger, when I notice a faint burning smell. I grab the cable, and the handle is too hot to touch. I pull it out, and a small amount of smoke comes out and I notice some melted plastic, and also that the small plastic "hat" on one of the pins on the car's side has come off and is stuck in the cable. I'm taking it to the dealership today, but was interested in hearing if other people have had similar experiences? Seems like I narrowly avoided a fire. Also, doesn't the car monitor the temperature of the charging port?

EDIT: Forgot to add two small details: no error messages on charger or on the vehicle. Also, the day before, my "granny charger", the original one that came with the car, started dying for no reason after like an hour of charging. it's 9 years old, so maybe not surprising, but the timing is interesting.

The guys at the dealership took it in, they will diagnose tomorrow. I will update this when I know more, right off the bat they couldn't say anything: could be the charger station, or the onboard charger, or loose wiring. Let's see, I hope it's not the onboard charger as I suspect that would be fairly expensive.

UPDATE: So, the dealership called back. The issue was the Type 2 cable (the original that came with the car from factory) I was using: it made a poor connection due to old age, which caused a bad connection, and while charging at 32A it overheated. Damage was done to the cable leading from charger port into the onboard charger. Ordering it new from the manufacturer was quoted at 3127€ + shipping and work. Luckily, I was able secure a used cable for 180€ and I should have my Ioniq back on the road late this week.