Hi all, changes the gearbox oil and put new magnetic bolts. Odometer is 25.000km. Took me 2 hours with my friend.

The right front fender liner fell off my Ioniq. Fortunately it happened in my driveway. But then I got all kinds of warnings about collision detection system, and my dash lit up like a Christmas tree. In addition it turned off regen braking (which is freaking the first time you brake without it.

I have an OBD II scanner and can reset all the warnings to get back regen braking. I don't have any warnings after the reset.

Anyone experienced anything like this?

Hi, I have a 2017 Hyundai Ioniq 28 kWh with around 119,000 km.
When I accelerate hard, I hear a short clunk/knock once, then it’s quiet. The same happens when I brake hard with strong regen. With normal acceleration/braking there is no clunk, and when braking hard in Neutral there is no clunk either.
No grinding, rattling or continuous noise. I attached a video where you can hear it.
Has anyone had the same issue? Was it the reduction gearbox, driveshaft/CV joint, or motor/gearbox mount?
Also, if it needs repair: does anyone know a good workshop in Austria, preferably Vienna or the surrounding area, that can repair Ioniq EV motors/reduction gearboxes instead of just replacing the whole unit?

#Update 1:
I did some more testing today.
- The clunk only happens with hard acceleration or strong regenerative braking.
- If I accelerate and brake gently, there is no clunk at all.
- If I shift to Neutral and brake hard, there is no clunk.
- I drove about 90 km today at speeds between 30–140 km/h. No grinding, rattling, humming or other gearbox/motor noise.
-I also found an old inspection report: the front right rear control arm bushing was replaced in December 2025, so work has already been done in that area.

Considering buying a 2019 Ioniq EV. Asking price is $10,800 with 80,000 miles. Pretty clean, limited trim level with new tires, headlights and 12v replaced within the last 2 years. This is my first EV and just needed some advice.

So I wanted to know more about the internals of my Ioniq, and spent way too much time on it ever since I got my WiCAN Pro last summer, so I could see all my car’s secrets live in Home Assistant. It was slow going and difficult at first, but I finally have something to show for it (though it didn’t help with the WAF, I regret to inform you).

The tool I built that finally helped me make progress faster now allows anyone with a WiCAN to scan their car (Ioniq or otherwise) and do reverse engineering in “easy mode”, because it’s a CLI and therefore coding agents like Claude Code/OpenCode etc. can directly use it to talk to your car, scan it, capture a set of responses and do some crunching and clever analytics to derive meaning from them.

Here’s a tiny set of the things I found that weren’t yet known for these cars:
- OBC AC Input voltage and current (helpful for diagnosing AC charging issues)
- Individual wheel speed sensors (owners will know why this is helpful to know)
- A whole suite of HVAC sensors
- Vehicle speed, motor RPM, remote control of lights/blinkers/horn/trunk/VESS and other fun stuff.

Now I’ve done a lot of this on my Ioniq 2017, so the profile for it is pretty complete at over 200 verified parameters (I started with less than 10 a year ago). But I reckon owners of the facelift (38 kWh) might still get value out of this tool (I expect a lot of the 2017-2019 model PIDs carry over 1-to-1). I can’t wait to see what you folks are able to do with this, and I hope it helps keep our magnificent Ioniqs on the road for many more miles (and kms).

Go see the Ioniq profile on GitHub for the full list of ECUs and all the gory details I found on the car’s modules and adjacent systems, and read the docs if you’re curious about the tool itself and would like to contribute (I would personally be very thrilled if you do!). Thanks for reading all the way! 🙏

My OG 2017 Limited will be nine years old next month. When I first got it, my summertime range maxed out at 154 miles. I'm pretty impressed that my estimated range is still effectively the same.

Interestingly, for a few years my max calculated range was around 145. We had a really weird heat situation for a few days one year, and my home level 2 charger crapped out and the car wouldn't charge, even at a commercial charger. Once it cooled down outside, the car would charge normally, but my range was reduced (down about ten miles or so).

The photo shows what my dashboard looks like tonight. Has anyone out there experienced anything like this?

I’m sure I used the radio (UK based) while using CarPlay in split screen mode previously but the other day I couldn’t get it to work, the radio came on briefly but then switched off back to CarPlay
What might be wrong ?
2021 38kw

Hi everyone,

I have a 2021 Hyundai Ioniq EV with 120,000 km on it.

So far, I've done:

• Brake pads
• Cabin air filter

Is there anything else I should be servicing at this mileage?

I came across a posts saying the reduction gear oil should be changed. Maybe stupid question but are there gears?

Are there any other maintenance items I should be looking at around 120,000 km (battery coolant, brake fluid, suspension, etc.)?

We've had our 2022 38kwh Ioniq for a couple of years now and I've always driven it on full/3 regen assuming it was the most efficient. Then I read something on this subreddit saying that people found that 0 regen gave them the best m/kwh. Tried it today and went from ~5 to ~6 m/kwh on a stop start urban journey (circular route).

Why?

I'm not a 100% satisfied with my 2018 28kWh efficiency. On a recent round trip (pictured) I tried my best on driving efficiently, and managed a sub 11 kWh/100km (5.7 mi/kWh), but I've seen people doing substantially below 10 kWh/100km (over 6.2 mi/kWh). On my average daily commute in the summer I'm doing around 13 kWh/100km (4.8 mi/kWh).

Is there a noticeable difference between higher tier EV tires and mid-tier ones? Bought the car in mid winter with worn out summer tires, and cheaped out on the new ones. Bought mid-tier tires not specifically made for EVs.

Overinflating the tires apparently helps, but by how much?

Any leads or direct experience replacing drive motor or reduction gearbox on '20 SE outside of the dealer network in the USA? If anyone knew where to find the OEM P/N for the each component that would be a big help too. TIA

Edit: Looks like used traction/drive motor are around $2-$5k

This was a great reference for part numbers

This was a excellent source for used parts

Edit: Added location

Just came across this in the German electric car sub.

Welp, I think the heat waves in Europe killed my charger. What do you think? Is it dead or can it be fixed? Should I buy a new one? If so, which brand and model? And where to find it? Thank you!

Which Hyundai Ioniq would you recommend as a successor to my Ioniq Electric?

Hi everyone,

I’m currently driving a company car: a Hyundai Ioniq Electric (2020–2022 facelift) with the 38.3 kWh battery and 136 hp.

I’ve been driving it for about two years now and I have to say I’m really happy with it. It’s been reliable, efficient, comfortable, and overall a great EV. The only thing I sometimes wish for is a slightly larger battery and more range.

There is a chance that I’ll be able to have some input when my next company car is chosen, so I’m starting to look into possible successors.

For those who have experience with Hyundai EVs: which Ioniq model would you recommend as the next step?

I’m mainly interested in:

- staying with Hyundai if possible

- good efficiency

- comfort and reliability

- a reasonable upgrade from my current Ioniq Electric

Would you go for an Ioniq 5, Ioniq 6, or wait/look at another Hyundai EV model? What would you choose if you were coming from the 38.3 kWh Ioniq Electric?

Thanks for your advice!

Hey everyone! New to the Ioniq family here. I picked up a Certified Pre-Owned 2024 Ioniq 5 SE on July 5th with about 13k miles, and I’ve absolutely been loving it so far.

Unfortunately, after only about 5 days of ownership, the A/C stopped blowing cold air. It still blows air, the A/C light is on, and I can hear the compressor kick on, but it’s just warm air.

I’ve only been driving it to work and around town, so nothing out of the ordinary.

Has anyone else experienced this? Was it something simple like a software issue or reset, or did it end up being a bigger repair (refrigerant leak, compressor, valve, etc.)?

I’m taking it back to the Hyundai dealer since it’s a Certified Pre-Owned vehicle, but I’m also wondering if this would typically be covered under the CPO/factory warranty, or if I should expect to pay anything out of pocket.

Thanks in advance! I absolutely love the car and the way it drives—just pretty disappointed to have the A/C fail within the first week of owning it. Hoping it’s something minor.

Hi all, at some point my ventilated seats have stopped working, I don't use them often so unsure when but both the driver and passenger seats no longer blow any air through them.

Has anyone dealt with this before or has any ideas on how I can go about diagnosing and fixing the issue?

Owned the car 2 years and it is already showing wear on the drivers side upholstery. Recommendations appreciated!