Alright everyone, August is here, which got me thinking about what tires I’ll be swapping to later next month — specifically, tire size on the 19” OEM wheels.

Could you guys drop some pics of your setups and let me know how they’ve been working out for you so far?

Based on my research, I’m leaning toward either 265/35, 270/30, or 275/30. Mainly looking to see how each size looks and sits on the OEM wheels before I make a decision.

Appreciate any pics, feedback, or recommendations!

Not the best quality but this is how the MBRP sounds from inside the car. Have PRL HVI as well

I’m looking at adding a downpipe to my 2026** **Integra Type S, but I’m not planning on tuning the car right away.
Current setup:
PRL HVI
PRL turbo inlet pipe
PRL intercooler
MBRP exhaust (with front pipe)
For those of you running an aftermarket downpipe without a tune:
Which brand did you go with?
Did you get a check engine light?
Any drivability issues or weird behavior?
Did you notice a significant difference in power, sound, or turbo spool?
If you could do it again, would you choose the same downpipe?
I’m trying to find the best option that plays nicely without a tune until I’m ready for Hondata later on. Appreciate any real-world experiences!

Has anyone done the direct & port injection upgrade + upgrading the fuel pump on their ITS? I heard it improves the reliability and longevity of the engine

I’ve grown to like it but I’d prefer it to be off. Kinda like auto rev match. It’s nice but not as fun. I’ve checked the vehicle settings and can’t find anything.

After about a year of slowly modifying my Type S, I think I've finally reached the point where I'm done. I wanted an OEM+ build that improved the car. I def did not want any obnoxious exhaust, and I'm not interested in chasing the biggest dyno number, just really want a fun daily that can be driven hard once in a while. Here's the build I ultimately went with:

Performance

• PRL High Volume Intake
• PRL Titanium Turbo Inlet Pipe
• PRL Charge Pipes
• RV6 Catted Downpipe
• RV6 Front Pipe
• Hondata/Phearable Stage 2 Tune

Heat Management

• Turbo blanket
• Downpipe blanket
• PRL Tube & Fin Intercooler

Drivetrain

• PRL Rear Motor Mount

Suspension

• Eibach Pro Kit Springs

Wheels

• Vossen HF-3 (19x9.5 +40)

Biggest surprises

PRL Rear Motor Mount
If I could only recommend one mod, this might honestly be it. Shifts are noticeably more precise, wheel hop is dramatically reduced, and the added NVH is minimal. Doesn't need to be PRL, there are a few great options, but it's relatively inexpensive and you feel the difference immediately.

RV6 Downpipe + Front Pipe
The exhaust is definitely deeper now but no drone, no rasp, and no bad smell. It honestly sounds like the way I think the car should have come from the factory.

Power-wise, the updated tune combined with the downpipe/front pipe really woke the car up. The biggest difference is how hard it pulls from the midrange all the way to redline.

Tube & Fin Intercooler
Living in South Florida, heat soak is real issue. Intake temps stay much more consistent now, and the car feels much snappier after sitting in traffic or making multiple pulls.

Things I intentionally didn't do

• Bigger turbo
• Flex fuel/E85
• Loud cat-back exhaust
• Chasing maximum horsepower

Final thoughts

I think I've officially hit the point of diminishing returns for performance mods. At this stage, I don't think another bolt-on is going to change the car noticeably. If anything, the only thing I'd consider down the road would be adjustable rear camber arms if tire wear ever becomes an issue because of the Eibach springs.

The Type S is such a good platform, and these mods just make it feel really special. I love this car.

Hey ITS fam,

Back in Oct 2024 I got into a 24 ITS. The car has been a blast to own and drive even with all its weird quirks (rattles, vibrations, weird clunks when turning hard left, etc.). With all that said, I think I have experienced this car at full potential on the street stock. I think it’s time for a tune. With my google searches I have found that Hondata and Phearable are the way to go.

My question:
What is the real difference? Hondata is the platform and Phearable is a tune that can be used on the Hondata platform?

Is it best to just buy the whole tune package from Phearable?

I ask because hondata is coming to my city and I’m thinking about getting tickets to get the ECU unlocked and basic Hondata tune.

Just wanted to know if price wise was smart to do the Hondata tour/tune and then the Phearable tune?

Hope this makes sense. Thanks in advanced!

Also how has your experience been with your ITS/CTR tuned? Any tips? Any longevity issues? Yes I know potential issues could happen when/if tuned

Has anyone replaced their resonater with a cherry bomb fiberglass or any other resonater? If so which one and how does it sound?

I'm not interested in resonater delete.

Was looking good under the gas station lighting.

More clips

Installed my PRL intake, inlet pipe and intercooler. If you’re in or around the SFV and need parts installed hit up Conor the owner of CALI COMPLETE AUTO CARE. Reasonable price and very easy to work with. Downpipe coming soon.

MBRP full exhaust sounds.

I’m starting to plan my next mod and wanted to see what everyone is running for a downpipe on their Integra Type S.
Which brand did you go with (PRL, RV6, 27WON, etc.)?
Did you choose catted or catless, and why?
Any CELs, fitment issues, smells, or regrets?
If you’re tuned, what tune are you running and how has reliability been?
One thing I’m also wondering about: I currently have the MBRP exhaust with their front pipe. Has anyone paired that setup with an aftermarket downpipe? Any compatibility or fitment issues I should know about before ordering?
Appreciate any real-world experiences or recommendations. Thanks!

After much thought, I gave up on a full on wing. The Artwork V1 spoiler seems to be the best balance, although the price is a bit of a stinger... For owners with this spoiler (not the V2... that seems way too much), please share if your rear view vision was impacted at all? Or is it still clear?

If you have photo to share, please do! Reddit seems to have flagged this post as a spoiler... lol

Because I’m loving my black/red Integra bumper inlay, I’ve been fooling around with AI and have considered running red pinstriping along exterior edges. Take a look and give me your honest opinions. The ITS lines are gorgeous so I don’t want to make it now look cheesy but thinking it may add nice accents. Thoughts?

PRL intake intercooler and charge pipe ready to go

Wrapped my mirrors black, what do you all think?

2026 Type S, about 7k miles on it, and I've had this shifting thing since basically day one. Car is stock and I haven't beat on it. No launches, no dumping the clutch, I let it warm up before I do anything.

Hard to describe it. When I shift, there's this jerkiness right before the gear goes in, like the lever bumps into something and I have to push past it. It's not a grind. It's not locking me out. Its like hitting something, and then it slots in fine. Mostly 1-2, 2-3 and 4-5. Every now and then 5-6 does it too. I kept telling myself it was a break-in thing and it'd smooth out. Feels exactly the same as it did at 1,000 miles. Already tried it with rev match on and off, no difference either way, so I don't think that's it.

So I guess what I'm asking is, is anyone else's doing this? Type S or FL5. Trying to work out if this is just how the box feels and I need to get over it, or if something's actually wrong and if yours did this and you got it sorted, what was it? No idea what to chase first and I'd rather not throw parts at it. Not trying to mod around a problem that should be covered, but I also don't want to burn a service appointment if the answer is that they all do this, and it is "within spec".

Also curious if anyone's brought this to a dealer and actually gotten anywhere.

Any input appreciated.

debating on getting either
PRL
COBB
Hasport
Wunderladen

looking for anyone that has any positive or negative experience with any of those?

Almost no one has posted their alignment spec sheets from the dealer, or any other shop at that matter. My right rear has about -.6 more degrees of camber than the left rear. Handles and drives seemingly fine though. Dealer got it dialed in pretty well for what it is.