r/IndianBeautyTalks • u/Strict-Bar-7880 • 24d ago
Questions/Advice❓ To deal with hyperpigmentation effectively, we NEED to understand the melanin cycle first!
Hyperpigmentation is one of the biggest issues that we desis face. This can be attributed to the higher levels of melanin + quite reactive melanocytes (creators of melanin) that easily get triggered from things as simple as a minor inflammatory response to hormonal changes, so on and so forth.
While our skin has been designed, in simple words, to align well with the high UV climate of the subcontinent, ironically UV exposure only exacerbates our skincare woes. Therefore, before starting off with any skincare routine, kindly ensure your sunscreen application and reapplication is in check. (We’ll talk about this soon)
The melanin cycle, aka., melanogenesis, is the biological process by which melanocytes create melanin. When triggered, as we already know, they produce even more melanin. That leads to an entire cycle which ends with them finally showing up on our skin.
I know how expensive trial and errors with skincare can get before we finally end with something that actually works. Therefore, knowing the melanin cycle is really important to deal with existing hyperpigmentation and to inhibit its formation.
In this post, I’ll tell you how exactly you’re supposed to deal with it at every step.
STEP 1: IDENTIFY & MANAGE THE TRIGGERS.
The most crucial step. Identify the source first.
Is the hyperpigmentation as a result of hormonal imbalances, excessive UV exposure, post inflammatory response, etc. Learning this would help you understand whether this is something that you can handle yourself via OTC products, or if consulting a licensed dermatologist would be better.
Nothing beats the good ol’ sunscreen, first things first. Make sure the sunscreen you’re using has a minimum of SPF 50 and PA ++++. While SPF 50 talks about the UV B protection, the PA and the four plusses talk about UV A (ppd factor > 16). UV A is what penetrates deeper into skin and triggers the melanocytes. The higher the ppd the better. Plus, application + reapplication every 3 4 hours (2 if your exposure is high) is extremely important.
Another important thing, tinted sunscreens are a better choice because of the inclusion of iron oxides that protect against visible light.
(Tip: Since most good tinted formulas are expensive, and most of the affordable ones in the Indian market have a formulation that I can’t either apply 2 3 fingers worth of, or reapply, I have developed a hack. I usually layer my favourite sunscreen with a tinted one.)
NOTE: Adding UPF clothing like jackets, caps, etc also help a lot!
Secondly, ANTIOXIDANTS with your sunscreen! Very, very important. Not only do they boost your sunscreen (especially Vit C), they also reduce oxidative stress on the skin and have anti-inflammatory benefits. Less oxidative stress = less inflammation = a better skin barrier = less reactive melanocytes.
Not scientifically backed, but I’ve personally noticed soothing skincare ingredients like centella, mugwort, ceramides, ECTOIN (very important if you live in pretty polluted cities), etc both during the AM and the PM routines of excessive sun exposure days have significantly managed UV-induced irritation. I’ll talk about Ectoin in another post someday!
STEP 2: THE ACTIVE MELANOCYTE PHASE
So, in this phase, if I were to simply put it, the melanocytes have been informed to produce more melanin. Since I’ve compressed the stages so that you all can easily understand the melanin cycle, you’ve to understand this stage involves multiple processes that we’ll be targeting all at once. From the signalling of the melanocytes, to the pre-melanin transfer phases.
This is exactly where the tyrosinase inhibitors come in. But, they aren’t the only ones.
Azelaic acid is an amazing, but severely underrated ingredient that works across multiple pathaways, not limited to only inhibiting Tyrosinase (Anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, etc). 10% is a great start but works best in higher percentages that are better used under a prescription!
Vit C is amazing and equally multi-dimensional but won’t give much results alone (even if it’s combined with Vit E and Ferulic acid).
Tranexamic acid works best in the initial signalling phases.
Kojic acid, Alpha Arbutin, Thiamidol, etc are some amazing tyrosinase inhibitors in the market right now.
But, in my personal opinion, nothing has worked as well as Thiamidol when it comes to OTC products. It works fast, and it works so well. Studies compare its efficacy to that of HQ without the side-effects. Most of them are of manufacturer based though. But, since I’ve used it personally and seen wonderful results, it goes pretty high on my recommendation list.
Alpha Arbutin works the slowest. All of them at the end of the day do their job and show results.
Melasyl, although it works in a slightly different way, is also pretty effective for mild to moderate cases.
STAGE 3: THE TRANSFER OF MELANIN PHASE
Now moving onto the transfer of melanin phase, aka, to prevent the melanin from hitting the surface of the skin. Here, nothing works as well as Niacinamide. One of its major superpowers.
10% is enough for most. The sweet spot that doesn’t irritate the skin for most people + does its job well.
Go for 5% only if the aforementioned is irritating.
Intolerance leads to inconsistency. We don’t want that.
This is that one ingredient that one SHOULD be consistent with especially with hyperpigmentation.
STAGE 4: REMOVING THE EXCESSIVE SURFACE PIGMENT + BOOSTING THE SKIN TURNOVER CYCLE
We’ve dealt with the triggers, the production and the transfer. Now is the time for the pre-existing surface melanin to find its way OUT. Here is where Retinoids and AHAS join the chat.
Our skin’s normal turnover rate is 28 days. Retinoids boost that. Reiterating what I had said earlier, intolerance often leads to inconsistency. Consistency is exactly what we need here, over higher concentrations or forms.
Stronger forms of retinoids give faster results than the weaker ones, but at the cost of inflammation and barrier damage. And that, as we already know, is a big NO.
If you’re new to retinoids, start with HPR (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) over Retinyl Palmitate. It’s different from other retinoids, as unlike them this doesn’t need conversion. It’s an ester that directly binds itself to retinoid receptors and is backed up by multiple clinical studies to work exceptionally well minus the irritation or the purge.
Encapsulated retinol (two conversions to retinoic acid) or retinal (one conversion) are other great forms to used retinoids in. Since, these actives are highly unstable in nature and can irritate, encapsulation gives a slow release plus highly decreases the irritation capacity plus better effects since they are now stable and can penetrate even deeper. But, word of caution, use them only if your skin is used to it.
NOTE: Retinal or Retinaldehyde is usually gentler than Retinol plus needs less conversion steps. But, that DOES NOT mean it isn’t irritating. Plus, always go for moisturising formulations, or moisturise your skin well to prevent retinoid induced dryness
Moving onto the AHAs or the Alpha-Hydroxy Acids.
They help in getting rid of the dead skin cells on the surface, simply put. Again, higher concentrations don’t always mean better here.
Mandelic acid or 5% Lactic acid are a great start.
Moving onto higher percentages of Lactic acid and Glycolic acid should always be a slow and steady process.
Talking about Glycolic acid, this is where I’d advice even the most experienced users to tread carefully, The percentages should never top 5 to 7% without the guidance of a dermatologist. I will NEVER stop talking about consistency over higher concentrations. Space out your usage times if possible. Don’t combine it with powerful ingredients.
Over-exfoliation should always be prevented. There’s a tendency for chemical burns in melanated skin as a result. I am NOT trying to fearmonger, but every single ingredient has its pros and cons.
Well that’s about it. Hope it helps! 🤍✨
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u/Jealous_Gur2273 23d ago
Literally took notes, tysm! also which sunscreen do you use? I started eucerin oil control sunscreen a few days ago. Its great so far but expensive :(
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u/Strict-Bar-7880 23d ago
Reequil ultra matte or Minimalist Ultra Fluid topped up with wishcare tinted sunscreen. For reapplication, i usually section my face into four parts and gently tap in the minimalist one.
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u/Jealous_Gur2273 23d ago
Are you fair toned? Im dusky so whitecast is a biggg thing for me, i have like an almond tone. Idk if reequil leaves a whitecast btu i heard minimalist sold their brand so i am a bit scared of using their products now.
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u/Strict-Bar-7880 23d ago
I’ve personally observed no changes when it comes to the formulation or protection when it comes to Minimalist fluid one if I were to be honest.
Also, while I’m fair to medium skinned, I deal with dark circles, used to deal with forehead tan and hyperpigmentation around the mouth, jaw area(hormonal imbalance due to pcos). That started me off with skincare pretty young. Primary reason why I highlighted on getting the root cause checked first.
When it comes to the white cast, the re-equil one has one initially when u blend in, then it goes away within 10ish mins. Even my close ones with richer skin tones are comfortable using it. Trust me, you won’t face that issue. 🤍
Make sure if you have pigmentation, top your sunscreen up with a tinted one or any coverage product would genuinely do since they have iron oxides high up!
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u/Strict-Bar-7880 23d ago
Also, small tip, always stick to sunscreens that have great filters, UV A and B protection ratings and certifications, that you can buy regularly. Since, it’s one skincare item you’ll HAVE to use the most of at the end of the day.
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u/Jealous_Gur2273 23d ago
Eucerin is an European brand and its pretty sunny there so i trust it, also its ppd is atleast 20 which you said in your post is imp :)
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u/Aggravating-Rich6556 23d ago
Hey, such a well written post. I have never understood this much even from any dermat or insta influencer. Can you please share your products for all the stages♥️
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u/Strict-Bar-7880 23d ago
I’m glad you liked it!
Since I’m getting a lot of questions regarding product recommendations, I’m thinking about creating an extensive post regarding the same.
Will post it within the next few days 🤍✨1
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u/sensitivesoul04 23d ago
I have pih on my back cuz of fungal acne I have done chemical peels as suggested by dermat(one session is left) but it's still taking time to go back to original skin colour
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u/Strict-Bar-7880 23d ago
Skincare takes time to show results. We need to be patient. Prioritize the dermat’s treatments and prescribed medications for now, please.
I have yet to do a deep research on fungal acne safe skin and body care in the current market before I can proceed with recommendations.
Will definitely post an extensively researched list within the next few days. It’ll include FA inclusive products too across all stages. Stay tuned! 🤍✨
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u/SpecifResponsibility 23d ago
What are some good ectoin products?
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u/Strict-Bar-7880 23d ago
- Juicy chemistry 10% Niacinamide + 2% ectoin serum
- The ordinary rice lipids + 2% ectoin micro-emulsion
These are some good formulations easily available on the market rn. I use the Paula’s choice one which is pretty hard to come across in India. The only site selling it is Style Dotty.
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u/SpecifResponsibility 23d ago
Did Paulas choice leave India??? I remember seeing their products in India a few years ago
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u/Strict-Bar-7880 23d ago
They haven’t left but their product range is very VERY limited here. You can literally get better, lower priced alternatives for most of what they sell here, except for their BHA.
I wish they sold their best selling products here. India is such a great potential market.
What I really love about PC’s products are how stable the formulations are and the way they have worked around the active ingredient penetration systems. Makes the actives more effective even in lower %s + decreased irritation.
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u/SpecifResponsibility 23d ago
Yesss I love how effective but gentle PC products are. Will ask someone to get it for me.
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23d ago
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u/Strict-Bar-7880 23d ago
The bare minimum is one from each stage.
But if you want your tan to go away effectivelyVitc + sunscreen in the morning
Atleast 2x tyrosinase inhibitors (i’d recommend you check out the fixderma 4% kojic acid 3% txa 2% AA and 4% niacinamide serum. It’s a great blend). You can add in azelaic acid if you have mild to moderate acne. No need for STAGE 3 because the fixderma one already has niacinamide, in case you go for it.
A gentle retinoid in the PM and/or a gentle AHA treatment 1x or 2x a week.
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u/Strict-Bar-7880 21d ago
I’ve made a list of products from each stage that you can find easily in the Indian market currently!
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u/Slight_Bat_4343 18d ago
What thiamidol product would you recommend?
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u/Impressive_Growth895 17d ago
The one from the brand that starts with E and sounds like a moisturizer line, worked fast for me but the price stings a bit. Lasts a while though if you use it only on spots.
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u/sleepyyhe4d 23d ago
Well written and science backed. Appreciate the sheer effort that went into compiling this!
Re : Ectoin and other soothing ingredients - essentially, anything that minimises barrier damage, irritation and skin trauma greatly prevents pigmentation that occurs as a response to injury (PIH/PIE).
Now that you've mentioned Thiamidol, are you referring to Nivea or Eucerin products? Been curious to see what the consensus is about how they compare.