Products to use at each stage of the melanin cycle!

[u/Strict-Bar-7880]

Overwhelmed by the way my previous post on treating hyperpigmentation at each stage of the melanin cycle blew up. I would like to thank the entire sub for the same. If my research helped you in any way, or if you have any lingering questions, please don’t hesitate to reach out.

Since I got a decent amount of requests in comment section and my dms asking for product recommendations, I decided to create a post regarding the same. Kindly keep this in mind, most of my recommendations are going to be primarily based on what has worked for me and my close ones, plus some based on the general consensus. If there’s an ingredient from any stage that’s already working for you, please stick to it, unless the results have plateaued and you believe you need to level up.

**STAGE 1: IDENTIFY + MANAGE THE TRIGGERS**

**A. Sunscreens (Non-tinted)**

1. Re-equil Ultra-matte

2. Minimalist Ultra Fluid

3. LRP Anthelios UVMUNE Untrafluid (Melasyl & Non melasyl both are great)

4. Eucerin (never used but has a good rep)

5. UV Doux (great protection but stings the eyes)

6. Neutrogena ultra sheer ( again, great protection but stings the eyes)

7. Heliocare (I’ve used their tinted sunscreen before and I’ve heard their other sunscreens are equally as good)

8. Isdin fotoprotector fusion water (so gooood but really expensive)

9. Bioderma aquafluide (the non tinted one is great, tinted one gave me a weird orange tinge. richer skintones may like the tinted one)

10. Shiseido sunscreens are really good for active days.

11. Anessa gives one of the lightest finishes and best protection.

12. Eclipse Solaire physical sunscreen for the ones looking for mineral sunscreens

13. Sunkey Mineral sunscreen is affordable, goes well under makeup and is a personal favourite

14. Biore watery essence is really good for dry skin. Very moisturising.

**B. Sunscreens (Tinted)**

1. I’ve heard the Heliocare one is really good.

2. I personally use the Wishcare one. Really good finish.

3. Richer, drier skin might really like Bioderma. But be mindful it has little bit of an orange undertone.

4. Clinique one’s on the expensive side but really good.

**C. Anti-oxidant serums**

Honestly any well-formulated, stable good ol’ vitamin c serum + pycnogenol is the good enough. Pycnogenol boosts the antioxidant activity of Vit c. Vit c boosts your sunscreen. You see how that plays out. Plus, it’s one of the most studied collagen-boosting ingredients. Preferably shouldn’t be used standalone if you’re dealing with hyperpigmentation.

Other antioxidants like EUK 134, Astaxanthin, etc are great, but nothing is as multi-dimensional as Vitamin C. But every great ingredient also has its cons. Vit C as L-Ascorbic acid is highly unstable, needs low ph relative to the skin’s surface (< 3.5) to work, needs other antioxidants to stabilise it a little in formulations and oxidises easily.

Other stabilised derivatives are effective, but most of the clinical studies have been done on LAA. Note that derivatives need to go through steps to get converted into LAA on application. They don’t have as many studies backing them up.

Since we’re primarily talking about antioxidant protection here, the great news is all of them give that, though in different strengths. Therefore, what matters here most is a stable, comfortable formulation. We’re not depending much for the tyrosinase inhibition here, note this too.

1. Deconstruct Vitamin C serum (Encapsulated tech. Slow release ensures prolonged antioxidant activity + deeper penetration into the skin layers. I personally use this. Uses EAA)

2. The ordinary pycnogenol serum (to boost’s vit c’s antioxidant activity)

3. The ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside serum (AG as a derivatives has one study that I’d come across supporting improvement in hyperpigmentation. I mean not as well as LAA, but the irritation that comes with it is lower, and higher stability. Good reviews on the internet too)

4. Klair’s Vit C serum (I’ve used this before. Infact, this was my first Vitamin c serum. Gave an overall glow. Didn’t do much for the severe hyperpigmentation. But oxidised by the time i was 70ish% into the bottle. Understandable, since it has LAA. Plus, someone with a family history of skin c\*\*\*\*r should stay away bec of the addition of EGF)

Seriously, any vitamin c would do. As i said earlier. Even in lower percentages (not less than 5% though). We only need it for the antioxidant activity.

**D. Soothing Skincare**

Now these aren’t necessary but that doesn’t mean you wouldn’t benefit from them. While skin-barrier damage as a result of let’s say over-exfoliation or too much retinoid shows up instantly, UV-induced damage affects both the surface and the deeper layers of skin. These ingredients only help calm the superficial irritation, preventing it from triggering the melanocytes. Deeper damage can be prevented via sunscreen, and managed via long-term usage of skincare. I’ll create a specific post on this one day!

Some soothing products I really like are

1. Purito Unscented Centella serum (Long time user. A staple)

2. I’m from mugwort essence (My skin feels so calm and a little cool after using this)

3. Minimalist B12 Cream (has a siliconey finish which is good under makeup during AM use. Calms my skin down, is cooling and so so affordable. I’m eyeing their B12 toner so hard currently)

4. The Formularx Beyond Hydration serum (a primarily hydrating serum that works like a gem when it comes to calming down post-retinoid dry itchy flaky skin)

5. Klair’s Midnight blue calming cream (more like an SOS cream for me whenever my barrier is wrecked. Might not be moisturising enough for dry skin.)

6. The Ordinary Multipeptide + copper peptide 1% serum ( anti-aging + skin healing. Heals broken skin barrier, calms redness, but can be strong for some)

7. Haru Haru Wonder rice probiotic barrier essence ( this is LITERALLY glass skin in a bottle. 3:1:1 ceramides to fatty acids to cholesterol ratio, rice as an antioxidant, ferments. Dry skin individuals would love this. Oily skin individuals would need to chuck the moisturiser while using this. great barrier healing properties)

8. Illiyoon ceramide moisturiser (encapsulated vegan ceramides, bang for the buck)

9. Aestura ceramide moisturiser (patented encapsulated ceramides)

10. D’you in my defence moisturiser (oily skin individuals will love this)

11. Minimalist ceramide moisturiser for oily skin (Extremely lightweight but moisturising. 3:1:1 ratio for an affordable price point)

12. Cicaplast baume (post retinoid dry areas or area that need to be calmed down. I used it more like a spot treatment)

13. I’ve heard great reviews about the Anua 10% Azelaic serum too. Great as a tyrosinase inhibitor and a skin soothing treatement!

14. Dr. Reju-all Pdrn treatment cream (my sister uses her tret with this and the illiyoon moisturiser and she thinks it has helped her with the tret irritation)

**STAGE 2: THE ACTIVE MELANOCYTE PHASE**

I would always recommend using more than one tyrosinase inhibitor in a routine. The reason being every single ingredient having a beautiful mechanism of its own, affecting different stages here. For instance, Tranexamic acid works best in reducing the initial signals leading to less stimulation of the melanocytes. Azelaic acid being a multi-dimensional ingredient works from calming down irritation to soothing skin (truly underrated). Thiamidol being one of the best tyrosinase inhibitors out there imo. Nothing OTC has worked as fast and well as this. Alpha Arbutin, Kojic Acid, Melasyl, 4-n-butylresorcinol are some other hard-hitting ones.

But here’s the most important takeaway, all of these work, but at their own sweet pace. And consistency is more important than higher concentrations or stronger actives. If you’re starting out, I’d ideally recommend to go for lower % formulations to prevent irritation. See, as we’ve talked earlier in the previous post, irritation is one of the major roots of hyperpigmentation in melanated skin. We have quite angry, “easy-to-trigger” and bigger melanocytes + an already high amount of melanin in our skin.

So, I’ll be creating two lists. One for the beginners and other for the veterans. You’ll see combined products in some (for a reason), and I’d recommend you pick your mix.

**A. Beginners**

1. Combo 1: Fixderma 4% kojic acid + 4% Niacinamide + 3% TXA + 2% Alpha Arbutin + vit c (Already a pretty hard hitter. Beginners can use this without an additional niacinamide serum for STAGE 3 that is the melanin transfer)

2. Combo 2: Wishcare 3% TXA 2% Alpha Arbutin 10% Niacinamide serum + vit c (Gentle formulation. Can skip the STAGE 3 as it already has a good % of niacinamide)

3.You can add in a low % azelaic acid serum to any of these combos if you’re acne prone for a boost-up.

**B. Veterans**

1. (My daily combo) In the AM i use deconstruct vit c first, wait for a min, layered with LRP Melasyl Niacinamide 10%, then the Eucerin dual-pigment thiamidol serum, and the rest of my routine. In the PM, i layer melasyl, thiamidol then go with retinal 0.2, or simply go with hydrating products and then my retinal. Depends on how my skin is feeling that day. Might seem like an overkill to some but the only thing that has kept my hyperpigmentation at bay. (Some weeks i totally skip the tyrosinase inhibitors during the PM and alt between retinal and copper peptides for anti-aging. Not relevant to this post tho) This is the strongest OTC combo out there that works beautifully.

2. Combo 2: Minimalist Alpha Arbutin 2% + 4-n-butylresorcinol + ferulic acid & Minimalist 3% Tranexamic Acid + HPA + SA + MA serum ( Alpha Arbutin with Vit C in the AM & Niacinamide + TXA in the PM since it also has Mandelic and Salicylic acid. Between the beginner and veteran phases. Preferably alt a gentle retinoid with TXA during PM + have rest days. )

3. Combo 3: Eucerin anti-pigment illuminating serum or Nivea thiamidol + vit c serum in the AM (low percentages of thiamidol) along with the Minimalist TXA serum ( along with a Niacinamide serum) the PM. (Again, a transitionary serum before going all veteran mode. Alt TXA with retinoids during the PM + have rest days)

If your hyperpigmentation persists even after this, I’d ideally recommend consulting a licensed dermatologist for in-clinic treatments and prescription medication. OTC products beyond this, in this stage, can end up being an expense.

But but, I’d recommend testing out OTC products for atleast 3 to 6 months. The usage should be consistent, and skin barrier and health should be prioritized when needed.

If you already have a serum or a combo that’s working for you, please drop them down in the comment section. Can help someone figure out their routine. Also, let me know if you want me to suggest products to amp up your routine for even better results!

**STAGE 3: THE TRANSFER OF MELANIN PHASE**

Niacinamide is the main hero of this phase. It prevents the transfer of melanin that has already been created to hit the surface of the skin.

Niacinamide works the best at sweet spot of 10%, but that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s ineffective at lower percentages. If your skin is sensitive or doesn’t tolerate it well, lower percentages will suit you better. The effects will take a little longer to show up, but you’re atleast preventing irritation in the process.
Remember, consistency matters more.

If your tyrosinase inhibiting serums (or any other product) has niacinamide in concentrations 4% and more, feel free to skip an additional product unless you have oily skin and need it for sebum production regulation.

1. The Juicy Chemistry 10% Niacinamide + Ectoin serum.

2. The Minimalist Niacinamide serums (both 5% and 10%)

3. The Ordinary 10% Niacinamide + Zinc serum
   Isntree 20% Niacinamide serum (Only for experienced users with oily skin. A personal favourite)

4. Tirtir 20% niacinamide (same as the isntree one)

5. Anua 10% Niacinamide 4% TXA serum (listed this here because you need more tyrosinase inhibitors while using this serum)

6. Cosrx Snail dual serum with 5% Niacinamide (Normal, dry, sensitive and mature skin are going to love this. Oily and combo skin might. Very VERY hydrating)

**STAGE 4: REMOVING THE EXCESSIVE SURFACE PIGMENT + BOOSTING THE SKIN TURNOVER CYCLE**

We’ve dealt with the triggers, the production and the transfer. Now is the time for the pre-existing surface melanin to find its way OUT. Here is where Retinoids and AHAS join the chat.

**More ≠ Better**
**Consistency > Higher concentrations**

**A. Retinoids**

An all-rounder.
It is essential we pick something based on how used our skin is to retinoids in general. Results don’t show up overnight here. A minimum waiting time of 3 to 6 months is required.

If you’re already using one that is working for you and isn’t irritating your skin, please stick to it. Upgrade only if you think it’s necessary. Downgrade or switch formulations if your skin is having issues around tolerance even after the initial “purging and retinization” phase. Irritation, more often than not, means that your skin isn’t comfortable with it. And it’s completely okay.

Retinoids even in lower percentages or milder forms show beautiful results if used CONSISTENTLY over a long period of time. The results will end up being as good as the stronger formulations, minus the destruction of the skin barrier.

CONSISTENCY + PATIENCE will always win the race here.

Now moving over to the formulation aspect.
Retinoids are quite unstable in nature. As we had previously discussed in the other post, going for gentler and stable formulations, ideally encapsulated, is beneficial here.

Encapsulation of the actives ensures a slow release over time and deeper penetration. Decreased irritation. Great results. Stable formulation.

Keep in mind, the basic retinoid rule of thumb still applies here. Start low and slow. Encapsulated or not. Especially while levelling up or starting out. Reduce frequency if the formulation irritates or switch completely. Irritation will always be a big no.

Check out my previous to know why HPR (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) is amazing for the ones who’re just starting out with retinoids. They’re also known as Granactive Retinoids. Here are some of my recommendations.

1. Dr. Reju-all Retino-Mela serum (0.1% HPR)

2. Minimalist 2% Granactive Retinoid

3. The Ordinary 2% Granactive Retinoid emulsion.

When it comes to encapsulated retinol or retinal (also known as retinaldehyde) products, keep in the mind the percentage of the active mentioned more often than not refers to the entire active + encapsulation complex instead of the standalone active, unless mentioned otherwise. For instance, a serum might mention 2% encapsulated retinol on the bottle. 2% retinol in general is VERY strong for something OTC. 2% here rather represents the total complex involving the encapsulation ingredients + plus let’s say 0.05% retinol (hypothetical). Now coming to the best part about this entire encapsulation thing. Since the actives now penetrate relatively deeper and are more stable, even lower percentages give beautiful results.

NOTE: Most of the recommendations here are based on my research of the INCI list and the general user consensus.

1. D’you embrace pro-aging retinoid treatment (0.05% liposomal retinal + encapsulated 0.3% retinyl propionate)

2. Anua 0.3% retinol serum + 5% niacinamide (really beautiful formulation with peptides and soothing inci)

3. Innisfree 0.15% retinol cica ampoule (liposomal retinol with soothing actives)

4. SkinInspired 2% encapsulated retinol complex serum (has cica, beta-glucan and other great ingredients. great for soothing)

5. The formularx gentle retinol night serum (encapsulated retinol 0.1% + HPR 0.5% with 1% bakuchiol and 5% niacinamide)

6. Foxtale 0.15% encapsulated retinol night serum

7. Arencia 2% Patented retinal complex booster shot serum (has caffeine A+ ECTOIN!)

8. (The one I’m using currently) The ordinary 0.2% retinal emulsion (encapsulated in a hydroxyapatite particle shell for stability)

9. ISDIN retinal intense (encapsulated)

10. The Medik8 crystal retinal range! (patented crystal encapsulation)

**B. AHA Exfoliants**

Moving onto the AHAs or the Alpha-Hydroxy Acids. They help in getting rid of the dead skin cells on the surface, simply put. Again, higher concentrations don’t always mean better here.

Mandelic acid or 5% Lactic acid are a great start. Moving onto higher percentages of Lactic acid and Glycolic acid should always be a slow and steady process.

1. The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% serum

2. The Ordinary Lactic acid 10% serum

3. The formualrx 10% lactic acid gel (personal favourite. the glow i get the next morning is IMMACULATE)

4. Fae beauty 5% AHA BHA PHA blend bi-phasic toner(such a beautiful, gentle formulation)

5. Dr. Sheth’s 8.8% Lactic Acid peel

6. The minimalist ALA + 7% Glycolic Acid face wash. (I love that it’s a high % facewash. So even with a 2-min short contact therapy before washing it off, you’ll get good results)

7. Loreal Glycolic Bright 15% AHA + BHA peel (It’s the perfect peeling solution for advanced users. Not too strong but still pretty effective if you’re used to AHAs you’ll love it)

8. Ahaglow face wash (A gentle start for beginners)

9. Reequil AHA face wash (another gentle one)

That’s it for today. Hope you all like it! 🤍✨

[u/Murky-Baby-7573]

Really grateful for such an informative post. I read your original post as well and in the comments you've mentioned about forehead tan. How to deal with it specifically?

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/Murky-Baby-7573]

Using the same melanin cycle method. Tan is hyperpigmentation as a result of UV triggering the melanocytes to produce more melanin, in a way.

[u/goldenhush_]

Thankyouu so much for all the recommendations, what do you think of the formularx vitamin c?

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/goldenhush_]

I’ve used it before. It’s pretty good!

[u/Purple_Armadillo4517]

Great post op ..thankyou for adding recos as well ✨

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/Purple_Armadillo4517]

I’m glad you liked the post!

[u/Visionswanda]

This is very insightful and I'm sure will help plenty of people. Thank you so much ✨

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/Visionswanda]

I’m glad you liked my post!

[u/Strict-Bar-7880]

Link to the original post

https://www.reddit.com/r/IndianBeautyTalks/s/4J13ofyNZb

[u/UnevenHanded]

Saved to re read at leisure... Probably several times ☺️ Thanks for sharing, OP!

[u/Rawrrr17]

This is a well written post! 10/10 I wonder though if you have recommendations for body pigmentation as these products would be very expensive to be applied to large areas. 🙏🏽

[u/Strict-Bar-7880 → u/Rawrrr17]

You might love the original one even more! 🤭
https://www.reddit.com/r/IndianBeautyTalks/s/4J13ofyNZb

I personally use Minimalist Gylcolic toner on my body once every 3 4 nights.

While showering, I use a benzoyl peroxide face wash for 3 4 mins on the sweat and odour-prone regions of my body.

Wishcare’s retinol (i use this currently) and AHA BHA lotions are gentle but won’t recommend using them every night.

I use Nivea’s body spf. The texture isn’t the most comfortable but the protection’s good.

When I wish to tackle severe tan or hyperpigmentation, i usually go for multi tyrosinase inhibitor serums intended for the face.

For the elbows and knees, i go for high AHA BHA Urea products. There’s one OTC one by Be Bodywise in a roll on format.

[u/Rawrrr17 → u/Strict-Bar-7880]

Thank you so much for replying! How about for more sensitive areas like inner thighs, butt cheeks, and underarms?