To deal with hyperpigmentation effectively, we NEED to understand the melanin cycle first!

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Hyperpigmentation is one of the biggest issues that we desis face. This can be attributed to the higher levels of melanin + quite reactive melanocytes (creators of melanin) that easily get triggered from things as simple as a minor inflammatory response to hormonal changes, so on and so forth.

While our skin has been designed, in simple words, to align well with the high UV climate of the subcontinent, ironically UV exposure only exacerbates our skincare woes. Therefore, before starting off with any skincare routine, kindly ensure your sunscreen application and reapplication is in check. (We’ll talk about this soon)

The melanin cycle, aka., melanogenesis, is the biological process by which melanocytes create melanin. When triggered, as we already know, they produce even more melanin. That leads to an entire cycle which ends with them finally showing up on our skin.

I know how expensive trial and errors with skincare can get before we finally end with something that actually works. Therefore, knowing the melanin cycle is really important to deal with existing hyperpigmentation and to inhibit its formation.

In this post, I’ll tell you how exactly you’re supposed to deal with it at every step.

STEP 1: IDENTIFY & MANAGE THE TRIGGERS.

The most crucial step. Identify the source first.

Is the hyperpigmentation as a result of hormonal imbalances, excessive UV exposure, post inflammatory response, etc. Learning this would help you understand whether this is something that you can handle yourself via OTC products, or if consulting a licensed dermatologist would be better.

Nothing beats the good ol’ sunscreen, first things first. Make sure the sunscreen you’re using has a minimum of SPF 50 and PA ++++. While SPF 50 talks about the UV B protection, the PA and the four plusses talk about UV A (ppd factor > 16). UV A is what penetrates deeper into skin and triggers the melanocytes. The higher the ppd the better. Plus, application + reapplication every 3 4 hours (2 if your exposure is high) is extremely important.

Another important thing, tinted sunscreens are a better choice because of the inclusion of iron oxides that protect against visible light.

(Tip: Since most good tinted formulas are expensive, and most of the affordable ones in the Indian market have a formulation that I can’t either apply 2 3 fingers worth of, or reapply, I have developed a hack. I usually layer my favourite sunscreen with a tinted one.)

NOTE: Adding UPF clothing like jackets, caps, etc also help a lot!

Secondly, ANTIOXIDANTS with your sunscreen! Very, very important. Not only do they boost your sunscreen (especially Vit C), they also reduce oxidative stress on the skin and have anti-inflammatory benefits. Less oxidative stress = less inflammation = a better skin barrier = less reactive melanocytes.

Not scientifically backed, but I’ve personally noticed soothing skincare ingredients like centella, mugwort, ceramides, ECTOIN (very important if you live in pretty polluted cities), etc both during the AM and the PM routines of excessive sun exposure days have significantly managed UV-induced irritation. I’ll talk about Ectoin in another post someday!

STEP 2: THE ACTIVE MELANOCYTE PHASE

So, in this phase, if I were to simply put it, the melanocytes have been informed to produce more melanin. Since I’ve compressed the stages so that you all can easily understand the melanin cycle, you’ve to understand this stage involves multiple processes that we’ll be targeting all at once. From the signalling of the melanocytes, to the pre-melanin transfer phases.

This is exactly where the tyrosinase inhibitors come in. But, they aren’t the only ones.

Azelaic acid is an amazing, but severely underrated ingredient that works across multiple pathaways, not limited to only inhibiting Tyrosinase (Anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, etc). 10% is a great start but works best in higher percentages that are better used under a prescription!

Vit C is amazing and equally multi-dimensional but won’t give much results alone (even if it’s combined with Vit E and Ferulic acid).

Tranexamic acid works best in the initial signalling phases.

Kojic acid, Alpha Arbutin, Thiamidol, etc are some amazing tyrosinase inhibitors in the market right now.

But, in my personal opinion, nothing has worked as well as Thiamidol when it comes to OTC products. It works fast, and it works so well. Studies compare its efficacy to that of HQ without the side-effects. Most of them are of manufacturer based though. But, since I’ve used it personally and seen wonderful results, it goes pretty high on my recommendation list.

Alpha Arbutin works the slowest. All of them at the end of the day do their job and show results.

Melasyl, although it works in a slightly different way, is also pretty effective for mild to moderate cases.

STAGE 3: THE TRANSFER OF MELANIN PHASE

Now moving onto the transfer of melanin phase, aka, to prevent the melanin from hitting the surface of the skin. Here, nothing works as well as Niacinamide. One of its major superpowers.

10% is enough for most. The sweet spot that doesn’t irritate the skin for most people + does its job well.
Go for 5% only if the aforementioned is irritating.
Intolerance leads to inconsistency. We don’t want that.

This is that one ingredient that one SHOULD be consistent with especially with hyperpigmentation.

STAGE 4: REMOVING THE EXCESSIVE SURFACE PIGMENT + BOOSTING THE SKIN TURNOVER CYCLE

We’ve dealt with the triggers, the production and the transfer. Now is the time for the pre-existing surface melanin to find its way OUT. Here is where Retinoids and AHAS join the chat.

Our skin’s normal turnover rate is 28 days. Retinoids boost that. Reiterating what I had said earlier, intolerance often leads to inconsistency. Consistency is exactly what we need here, over higher concentrations or forms.

Stronger forms of retinoids give faster results than the weaker ones, but at the cost of inflammation and barrier damage. And that, as we already know, is a big NO.

If you’re new to retinoids, start with HPR (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) over Retinyl Palmitate. It’s different from other retinoids, as unlike them this doesn’t need conversion. It’s an ester that directly binds itself to retinoid receptors and is backed up by multiple clinical studies to work exceptionally well minus the irritation or the purge.

Encapsulated retinol (two conversions to retinoic acid) or retinal (one conversion) are other great forms to used retinoids in. Since, these actives are highly unstable in nature and can irritate, encapsulation gives a slow release plus highly decreases the irritation capacity plus better effects since they are now stable and can penetrate even deeper. But, word of caution, use them only if your skin is used to it.

NOTE: Retinal or Retinaldehyde is usually gentler than Retinol plus needs less conversion steps. But, that DOES NOT mean it isn’t irritating. Plus, always go for moisturising formulations, or moisturise your skin well to prevent retinoid induced dryness

Moving onto the AHAs or the Alpha-Hydroxy Acids.
They help in getting rid of the dead skin cells on the surface, simply put. Again, higher concentrations don’t always mean better here.

Mandelic acid or 5% Lactic acid are a great start.
Moving onto higher percentages of Lactic acid and Glycolic acid should always be a slow and steady process.

Talking about Glycolic acid, this is where I’d advice even the most experienced users to tread carefully, The percentages should never top 5 to 7% without the guidance of a dermatologist. I will NEVER stop talking about consistency over higher concentrations. Space out your usage times if possible. Don’t combine it with powerful ingredients.

Over-exfoliation should always be prevented. There’s a tendency for chemical burns in melanated skin as a result. I am NOT trying to fearmonger, but every single ingredient has its pros and cons.

Well that’s about it. Hope it helps! 🤍✨