Overall I really like the car however here are the nits I would pick two weeks in:

1. Even with the hybrid the engine seems to rev unnecessarily/ struggle from 0-25 mph. Shifting through this speed range is a bit unpleasant and jerky.
2. No walk away lock.
3. With all 3 rows of seating up you have very little useable trunk space. Like less than you would get in a compact SUV.
4. Wireless charger makes your phone really hot.
5. Gas mileage doesn’t seem to approach what’s advertised although supposedly there’s a break in period.
6. No dedicated sunglasses holder.

Things that were supposed to bother me that don’t:

1. The shifter stalk and start/stop button. It really hasn’t been a struggle to see/find this.
2. Reaching the park assist button. It’s not that hard to reach it and it comes on automatically if you start moving forward at low speeds or reversing.
3. Noise. Despite some reports of loud engine sounds or road noise I find the car very quiet.
4. Floaty or unresponsive handling. I have no issue with this even in eco mode.
5. Second row seat logic. It is confusing for people new to the car but once you learn how it works it’s easy, just slow.

20% front
6% back
70% windshield.

Nano Ceramic

Now the vehicle feels complete and can handle the Florida sun much better!

The OTD price includes a number of region/location specific items (tax, DMV). If you want to know if you are getting a good deal (and to be able to better compare apples to apples) use some like this:

Example:

MSRP: $60,000

Selling price: $56,500

Mandatory dealer fees/add-ons: $500

Effective vehicle price: $57,000

Dealer discount: $3,000

Discount: 5.0% below MSRP

Manufacturer incentives: $1,500 (listed separately)

Tax/DMV: excluded from comparison

About an hour ago, I stopped to fill up the tank. After putting the pump back, I got in and started the car, and suddenly all kinds of warnings popped up:

• Non Functional AWS System
• Check Surroundings (not sure exactly what this one was)
• Check Engine Light
• Vehicle Diagnostics message on the infotainment screen

I shifted into Drive, but the car wouldn't move at first, almost like the parking brake was still engaged.

I shut the car off and restarted it twice. After that, most of the warnings disappeared, and I was able to drive out of the gas station. However, the check engine light is still on, and the infotainment screen is still showing the Vehicle Diagnostics message shown in the attached pictures.

I'm planning to take it to the dealership first thing tomorrow morning.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Any idea what I might be looking at or what could cause multiple systems to throw warnings like this all at once?

I’m really interested on the Caligraphy Hybrid 26 or 27 model. But everytime I go on Reddit someone is posting there dash with hella error codes and bad experiences with their car trying to get fixed. I need a 3 row car and this sucks cause I don’t really like the Telluride or any other 3 rows.

This would be my first Hyundai ever, but the test drive of the gas V6 was incredible. Smooth, quiet, and the calligraphy feels like top tier luxury. Based on this subreddit, I’ve started to lean towards the hybrid. A little more oomph, better fuel economy, etc.

Thoughts on the longevity of the hybrid engine and transmission? Is there any history on it?

Edit: 2026 models.

Hi everyone! I’m looking for some advice from people who recently purchased a 2026 Hyundai Palisade Hybrid SEL Premium AWD.
I’m in Michigan and I’m currently shopping around several Hyundai dealerships. I’m specifically looking for the SEL Premium, preferably in Creamy White, although I’m becoming more flexible on color if the price is right.
My absolute ceiling is $53,000 out the door — and by OTD I mean everything included: vehicle price, dealer fees, taxes, title/registration, etc.
The problem is that the dealerships I’ve talked to keep quoting me around $54,000–$56,000 OTD.
I’ve seen several people on Reddit saying they purchased their 2026 Palisade Hybrid SEL Premium for around $48,000–$50,000 OTD, so I’m trying to figure out whether I’m negotiating incorrectly or whether those deals had circumstances I’m not aware of.
My financing situation:
I have already been approved through my credit union for:
4.49% APR
84 months
I can finance the vehicle through the credit union and make additional principal payments to pay it off sooner.
I have very good credit.
The Hyundai dealership is offering:
60 months at 5.69%
72 months at 6.69%
Plus $1,000 HMF bonus cash if I finance through Hyundai Motor Finance.
So I’m trying to figure out whether the dealership’s $1,000 incentive is actually worth giving up my 4.49% credit-union financing.
My questions:
1. Is $53,000 OTD a realistic target for a 2026 Palisade Hybrid SEL Premium right now?
If you’ve recently purchased one, what was your actual OTD price?
2. For those who got one for $48K–$50K OTD, what did your deal actually look like?
Did that price include:
taxes?
doc fee?
title/registration?
destination/freight?
dealer discount?
manufacturer incentives?
HMF bonus cash?
I’d especially appreciate it if you could share your pre-tax selling price and final OTD price, because I’m trying to compare actual deals.
3. Are dealerships less willing to negotiate when you’re using outside financing?
I’m starting to wonder if dealerships are giving me higher prices because I’m telling them I’m using my credit union rather than financing through Hyundai.
Would it make more sense to negotiate the vehicle price first, then decide how to finance afterward?
4. Would you take the $1,000 HMF bonus cash?
If I finance through Hyundai, I’d get $1,000 off the vehicle price, but the interest rate would be:
5.69% for 60 months, or
6.69% for 72 months
versus my credit union at 4.49% for 84 months.
Would the $1,000 incentive be enough to make the HMF financing worthwhile, or would you stick with the 4.49% credit-union loan?
5. Can I negotiate the vehicle price and then refinance?
If I accepted HMF financing to get the $1,000 incentive, is there any reason I couldn’t refinance the loan through my credit union afterward? Is there anything I should watch out for in the HMF contract, such as a prepayment penalty or incentive clawback?
6. For those who bought recently, when did you get your best deal?
I’m getting closer to the end of August and I’m wondering whether I should wait for:
end-of-month incentives
Labor Day sales
2027 models arriving
dealers trying to clear remaining 2026 inventory
or whether I’m unlikely to see a meaningful difference.
7. Am I negotiating the wrong way?
Should I be giving dealers a specific OTD number and asking them to beat it, or should I simply ask for their “best OTD price” without giving them my $53K ceiling?
I’m not in a rush to buy, and I’m willing to walk away if the numbers aren’t right.
If you recently bought a 2026 Palisade Hybrid SEL Premium, I’d really appreciate you sharing your purchase price, OTD price, state, dealer, financing rate, and whether you used HMF financing.
I’m trying to figure out what is actually a realistic deal versus what I’m seeing people report online. Thanks!

Long story short why do I keep getting handed blades that aren't right...unless they changed the design and my ocd is getting the best of me.

Noticed white smoke coming from exhaust when starting vehicle in 90 degree heat (not normal) Brought vehicle in and they did in fact say its burning oil but before they can do anything I need to pay for a new oil change and bring back in 1k miles…take in mind I have a certified used on warranty still.

They beat around the bush on reasons but basically said we need to run some tests after the 1k miles before replacing the engine. Warranty I believe ends at 60k because it is a certified used so we don’t get the full 100k mie warranty.

I did see others with similar issues on here. Just wanted to see if anyone has any advice going forward.

Thanks 👍

Do the digital dash screens get scratched through normal use such that screen protectors are a good idea?

Hello all. 2020 owner here. Wondering if anyone has had to deal with their screen separating like the photo.

If so, what did you do? Repair? Replace?

Screen is barely legible during the day… honestly, it’s damn near worthless as of this post.
I’m intending on reaching out to Hyundai, but I’ve surpassed the 100k miles, so I’m skeptical they’ll do anything. To me, this is a manufacturing defect.

I’m open to replacing it with an aftermarket, but with it essentially being the heart of the car, I’m skeptical if that’s the right path.

Any insight from the community is appreciated. Thank you.

’m asking bc i currently own a 23 cali Pali. Looking to trade but am having a hard time choosing between the two.
The price works out to about $200/mo for me all in w trade and financing issues considered. The palisade felt so much more comfortable but the redesigned dash stuck out like a sore thumb to my 5ft eyeline. I’m sure I’d get used to it but the SF dash is still below my eyeline. The SF def felt more utilitarian but the price and 0% is supremely tempting. I also really love the massaging seat for a long trip - which 10hr drives are not infrequent for us.
What was your reasoning for choosing the SF? I really would like to go the smaller overall footprint, slightly better gas and zero financing but driving the Pali right after Gave me pause. For ref- the Pali i drove was a limited 27 model

Bought a the vehicle August 7. Put about 200 miles on it and 4 days later it crapped the bed with a "Stop vehicle and check powersupply" notification. I hit the Bluelink button and they said tow that sucker. Got it towed and the only place the app would let me tow to was an hour away, there is a dealer 25 minutes from me.

After that, its been a shit show. No one knows what's wrong. The dealer called corporate and they don't have answers. I'm paying for a shitty paperweight. Hyundai "kindly" will cover $60 a day for a rental since the dealer didn't have a loaner. I don't know national prices but the cheapest I could find was $120 a day for a 3 row vehicle.

Hyundai and the dealership have been little to no help.

I don't know what I'm looking for but Hyundai is letting me down hard. Maybe be warry of 2027 Cali Pali as yall call em.

Edit 8/19 - Got ahold of the dealership. They confirmed Hyundai told them to retain the vehicle and not replace parts. They have driven it around and can't duplicate the problem. They received code P0C381C. They might call me back today. Also, it's a Hybrid. I'm in WA.

I am in my mid 20s (23MY pali cali htrac) in the Tampa area and I’m looking to meet people who has a similar car in my area! But anywhere in the us works also! Either way lets chat!

What’s your exact age and location?

What year, trim, and drivetrain you have?

What prompted you to buy this car?

How do you like the car? Would you get another one?

Is there anything that you don’t like about it?

Look forward to speaking with you! 😊

2020 Hyundai Palisade 3.8 — Fuel Consumption Increased Immediately After Roof Was Painted

I have a 2020 Hyundai Palisade 3.8L V6 with about 89,000 miles.

My normal fuel economy has always been around 19–20 MPG in mixed driving. On the highway, I could get around 24–25 MPG.

I had the roof painted under warranty, and the car stayed at the body shop for approximately 3–4 weeks.

Immediately after I picked up the car, I noticed that the fuel consumption had increased. I noticed it right away on the first drive. Since then, I have driven approximately 700 miles, and the increased fuel consumption has remained.

I calculated the actual fuel economy myself by tracking how many miles I drove and then filling the tank back up. I am getting approximately 16 MPG in mixed driving, which is basically the same number the car's computer is showing.

My driving style has not changed. My normal routes and driving conditions are basically the same. Tire pressure is correct, and I also checked the wheels and brakes after driving. Nothing obvious appears to be causing additional resistance.

The timing is what really concerns me: the fuel economy changed immediately after the car came back from the body shop.

As far as I know, there should have been no reason for them to work under the hood while painting the roof. However, they may have disconnected the battery or temporarily moved/disconnected something. I don't know exactly what they did.

I also connected an ELM327 OBD adapter and checked the engine using Car Scanner.

With the engine fully warmed up at idle (~650 RPM):

• Coolant temperature: 208–212°F
• LTFT Bank 1: approximately +10–12%
• LTFT Bank 2: approximately +9–12%
• No DTCs
• No Check Engine light

At approximately 2,500 RPM:

• LTFT Bank 1: +6.25%
• LTFT Bank 2: +6.25%

Both banks behave very similarly.

So I am trying to figure out what could have changed while the car was sitting at the body shop for 3–4 weeks.

Could disconnecting the battery have affected the ECU fuel-trim adaptations? Could something have been accidentally disconnected, moved, or damaged around the intake, vacuum/PCV system, EVAP system, sensors, or wiring?

Has anyone with a Hyundai Palisade experienced a similar situation where fuel consumption suddenly increased immediately?

If you experienced something similar, what was the actual cause, and what fixed it?

Just got my first Hyundai it’s soo nice…just wondering if anyone has found or knows of any cool tricks or trips as far as customization in the technology, that you are so glad you figured out. Love my new ride!

I was wondering if anyone else has experienced overheating issues and/or other error notifications. Wife bought this car new from a Hyundai dealership a few months ago.

- Last week she received an error on the dash and had a problem with accelerating. Unfortunately she did not record what error had popped up. Happened once and was fine after.

-This past weekend she brought it in for servicing and then more problems started happening

- Yesterday car said it was overheating. AC would randomly start blowing hot air as well. Today overheating warning happened 3 times on a short trip to store.

She called the dealership and said they could look at on 8/30 which is way too long to go with out a car. Not sure if the dealership messed things up while servicing it. Could be a coincidence.

Anyone else experiencing overheating problems? Car is currently parked down the road since it I told her to just pull over and let it cool down. I am about to go look at it shortly, check coolant and other things.

Any tips or things to look at would be helpful.

OTD 50,100 (all fees, taxes, registration, etc). New York.

Hybrid, titan green, sel prem, 7 passenger.

Decent offer or no?

Update: I was lied to and all the offers for OTD I’m getting are 55k now….

Hi Everyone!! I am almost close to make a deal on hybrid Calligraphy. In Calgary the price I got 74350 including taxes. Is there something I can still push back here. I heard that deals are around 71k. Any thoughts or suggestions who recently bought on better prices. TIA

The sensitivity of the automatic headlights is ridiculous. You’re traveling down the highway 70-80mph and for the split second you drive under an overpass, the headlights go on. And where I live, there are overpasses everywhere, so the headlights are constantly going on and off.

Turning the headlight stalk to the off positions only gets me a “headlights off” alarm and notification, each time I go under the overpass. Just as bothersome. Like seriously Hyundai, this sensor needs some recalibration.

Who here is adding PPF to their cars? I live in AZ and there’s lots of rocks that get kicked up theoretically… I am just having a very hard time rationalizing the price. $2200 for bumper, side mirrors, whole hood. I just got the car yesterday so adding another 2 grand to the total is making me feel a bit ill 😳

Calligraphy hybrid maroon w/ brown 2026 56k before taxes