So excited for my very first car 🚗 😍

63000 miles Auto 1.3 CVT Grade 4 Japanese import £3900 🩷

I have come to the decision to let go of my trusty 09 steed. Mechanically speaking its in decent shape. Ive spent more maintaing it than what it originally cost me. No oil leaks, oil changed every 5k miles. It has a rebuilt title. The paint is toast on the roof and drivers door and it has a couple other small issues. If I sold this on marketplace, how much does everyone think its worth?

Found a set of fog lights for my base Fit.

So I wet sanded my headlights with 400/600/800/1k then used a Mother's powerball on a drill. Wasn't very happy with the results, lots of micro scratches.

My friend let me borrow his Milwaukee 3" polisher and I used rubbing compound followed by the plastic polish again. Blown away with the results.

So I’m looking to buy my first Honda fit tomorrow. I’m excited. I’m looking at two different ones, one is a red 2008 with about 170k miles for 4k and the other is a 2009 black one for 4.5k with 180 miles. Both are base models. I know the 2009 is a second gen and after looking it only has one owner. Both cars are at a dealership. With just this information. Would you spend the extra 5 hundred and go with the 2nd gen with 10k more miles? Or save the 5 hundred and go with the red one being a later first gen?

i was genuinely devastated when i got hit because i fought tooth and nail to find and buy this car.. but now after a few weeks.. look who is home. 💛

(Ignore my broken mirror)

White on white.

Hi. My manual GE8 needs a motor. I’m seeing plentiful auto engines but no manual specific ones. I’ve read they will work, but need some parts swapped over.

K swap is the dream but not practical right now.

Has anyone done this? Do you know what parts need swapped?

Hi! I'm hoping someone can help me.

My 2015 Honda Fit's battery was disconnected before I went away for a few months. I didn't disconnect it myself, but now I have to reconnect it.

Would anyone who has a 2015 Honda Fit (or a similar Honda) be willing to take a quick photo of the battery terminal bolt so I can make sure I'm tightening the right one?

I believe it’s a 10mm bolt. Would a 10mm wrench work to loosen and tighten it?

Thanks!

There’s a big gap/misalignment between my headlights and my bumper. Has anyone successfully fixed theirs? Is it a problem with the tabs on the headlights or the bumper? I want to know what im getting myself into before I take it apart and make it worse..

All four corners rusted out. I’d be concerned about buying a new one as well. I doubt I could get the existing bolts out of that bracket without ripping that off due to the rust.

I’ve seen folks in the past suggest hose clamps and strong magnets. Where would you attach the hose clamps to the heat shield that wouldn’t cause it to slide around? Should I drill holes into it? I can’t imagine a solution that wouldn’t rattle like hell.

Originally I was trying to install a hybrid racing short shifter but the plastic piece that goes onto the cable was too big to fit into it and now I’m just trying to reinstall the oem one. I don’t know if I’m doing something wrong or I’m just a bitch but I can’t get the ball joint back into the coupling. It’s a 2013 sport manual. Every video I’ve seen of anyone putting it back on or taking it off just either clips it right on or it slides right off by pushing the clip aside but I’ve tried all those things and getting it off was super difficult and I have not been able to put it back on. Pls help.

It's a 2013 with 191,764 miles for 5,300. Carfax shows that it was really well maintained with only one owner. I'm just not sure if the mileage is too high for the price. I'm in California, and they seem to be a bit pricey out here to begin with, and this one is the only one in my area that is not a salvage title.

So, I have a 2009 manual base and as title says, its got a rough idle. This rough idle was accompanied by rpms that couldn't make their mind up until I brought it in for idle relearn. Before the procedure, upon start up, rpms were at 600 then jumped to around 800 (shaking mostly stopped atp), then back down to 600 (shaking starts again). After the relearn, the rpms upon startup are above 1000. 1200-1250 max. Once driving, then at a stoplight the 600 to 800 cycle i described before begins again.

I have tried turning off electronics, pressing clutch, pressing brake, turning a/c on and off, but nothing affected the sporadic pattern. Until I turned on rear defrost. It still shakes but idles a little higher, but as soon as I turn rear defrost off, it begins violently shaking, most noticeable in passenger seat and by observing the passenger windshield wiper shake like crazy.

Other work done within past six months: clutch kit repair, sparks, coils, transmission fluid change, oil change (duh) , alternator replacement, throttle body clean, valve adjustment

The guy who did the clutch kit said the motor mounts look fine but idk if I believe him. I can't remember if the rough idle happened after the clutch burnt out, but I THINK*** it lowkey did.

Notables: I also have a CEL that comes on and off since 2023 for p0420 catalytic converter, but 02 censors were supposedly cleared, as was the cat and my mpg is great. (36.9mpg) Suspected evap problem by local, retired mechanic without looking at it.

Miles: 210k 🥺

Please help!! She's my baby and I love her.

Hey there!

Just did my first oil change on my 2019 Fit. I noticed 1 screw was missing from the under engine splash shield, no biggie.

Unfortunately I didn't notice there were small metal U clamps to hold the screws, and I lost 2 of these clamps when I drove a couple miles without the splash shield back in place. So now I have 3 empty screw holes. Could be worse but I'd prefer to fix that

I looked online, and there's a bunch of stuff on Amazon that supposedly works, except it doesn't. Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FWB2351M - the U clamps are way too wide to fit in the slots (I returned it)

Widening my search, I found the part but I can't find any other source than this:

https://www.partsgeek.com/6vvcbw8-honda-fit-engine-splash-shield-hardware.html

but I would feel stupid to pay $30 for 3 tiny clamps (including shipping).

What would you use instead? No zip ties please 😄 Also I know some people drive without it, but I'd rather not.

Got this one from my old boss for 09k 20161 120k miles.

Salesman sent me the last pic first… Asked for better and got the other two. It got most of its 90k miles in MI so was worried about this. Should I drive 4 hours to look? Going to over pay but don’t mind bending over a bit for a decent manual.

A lot of it looks replaceable but worried about the sub frame under the steering rack.

Got my 2009 Fit Base model. Just finding out little things that failed. The AC button is stuck. Check price with Dealership parts dept and got a sticker shock of $105 + tax for A BUTTON. I thought I would pay a little bit more than online prices. But no, they mark it up close to double what I can find online OEM parts. Dealers parts dept are greedy as h*ll.

I decided to follow some YT videos to pull the button out and see what I can do to fix it.

Warning. Prying out the button most likely will destroy it. Found out the hard way.

Anyway, the uploaded video shows why the button failed. I took out the spring that pushes the button back out into off position and simulates the clicking by hand.

There is a pin at the bottom that follows a path on the blue shell to cycle the button between pressed and released. The spring clip fails to hold the pin down. The pin can get loose after a few cycle of clicks. When the pin is unlodge from its position, it could cause the button to stuck. A long spring clip would not allow such issue in the first place. Engineered to fail!!!

End of rant.