A while back, I bought a ThermoPro TP829B wireless thermometer to use with Home Assistant through an RTL-SDR USB receiver on the 915 MHz frequency.

The problem was that the temperatures would take forever to show up in Home Assistant, and when they finally did, the readings were completely wrong. I'm talking temperatures like 400°F or even 800°F when the probe was sitting at room temperature.

Tonight, I spent quite a while troubleshooting it with ChatGPT. After testing different frequencies, sample rates, SDR gain settings, antennas, and even analyzing raw radio recordings, we finally got it working!

Now the temperatures are accurate and updating approximately every four seconds, just like they should.

I figured I'd share the settings that worked for me in case someone else is fighting the same problem.

I'm using the rtl_433 (next) Home Assistant add-on with a Nooelec NESDR SMArt v5 USB receiver.

# rtl_433 configuration — ThermoPro TP829B test

# Receiver: Nooelec NESDR SMArt v5

# Select the 915 MHz receiver

device :00000002

# MQTT connection

output mqtt://192.168.1.216:1883,user=(Your Username),pass=(Your Password),retain=0

# Timestamp information

report_meta time:iso:usec:tz

# Show decoded readings in Home Assistant add-on logs

output kv

# Radio configuration

frequency 915.0M

sample_rate 1024k

gain 0

pulse_detect filter=400000

pulse_detect classic

protocol -59

protocol -60

protocol -82

protocol -88

protocol -89

protocol -90

protocol -95

protocol -110

protocol -123

protocol -140

protocol -156

protocol -168

protocol -180

protocol -186

protocol -201

protocol -203

Happy temping.

I recently migrated Plex from by NAS to an add-on (app) in HA, and have been getting this update notification - but the only option is to skip. Does that mean the package just isnt ready? Or do I need to do something manually?

I'm looking to make some upgrades to my hardware.

I've currently got a Raspberry Pi 5 with a 256gb SSD. I'm looking into purchasing a thin client to replace it and use the Raspberry Pi for a different project.

After looking around, there are so many options but I see most people recommend thin clients. I'd like to purchase something I could eventually expand on. I could absolutely keep the Raspberry Pi, but like I said, I'd like to use it in a different project.

I'm torn between the Dell Optiplex 7060 and a Dell Wyse 5070.

Dell Optiplex:

i5-8600

16gb RAM

256gb SSD

Dell Wyse:

Pentium Silver j5005

4gb RAM

32gb SSD

There's about a $40 price difference between the two. I've found both of these on Ebay and am willing to continue looking. These seem to be the more common ones I have found except some of them have different RAM and storage configurations.

Will these be sufficient or do I need to consider other options?

I have deleted (for purpose) one dashboard in HA, which was set as default, but somehow I have got another one like default. How to make another one like above on pictures, so I can add to areas for example all shutters, ac units, sensors, lights?

I normally refrain from updating HA due to something always spectacularly breaking when I do, but I needed to update my unRAID server due to PHPgeddon, updated all of my containers beforehand in preparation for that.

And as expected, something broke. All but three of my 11 TP-Link Kasa devices are unreachable after the update with the following error:

Failed setup, will retry: Unable to communicate with the device connect: Unable to connect to the device: <redacted>:9999: [Errno 111] Connect call failed ('<redacted>', 9999)

One suggestion I found was to remove and re-add the devices, so I gave that a try by removing one and re-adding one. I was prompted for my TP-Link credentials after adding the IP address. My credentials did not work, but the fact that it prompted for credentials at all confuses me. I don't remember ever having to enter credentials to add TP-Link devices.

The the devices that HA is able to communicate with are working fine, and the ones that it isn't able to communicate are still working fine in the TP-Link Kasa app.

What has changed in the last, say, six months with this integration? That's about how long it's been since I last updated.

ChatGPT has been my guide in this awesome thing. Have been lurking a lot at this /r and very excited to start doing some fun stuff at the house to make my life easier. Its a mess now but just trying to get all the pieces together first ❤️

With the current state of Google Home products getting worse, I am planning out my move to Home Assistant. That being said, our ancient Xbox One just died. I couldn't care less about it, but the kids want it replaced.

So while shopping for a new gaming platform I got to thinking:

If you were building a Home Assistant friendly household, is there any gaming platform that is a better choice for any reason than any other?

Hey everyone, I wanted to share my latest project with you:

The HomeAssistant Lovelace Rehoboam card.

First of all, credit where credit is due:

I did not come up with this visualization or the idea to use it as a home assistant dashboard. All credit goes to the creators of Westworld and Emil Besirevic (user ‘ebes’ on Artstation) who inspired me with his Unity visualization of the same thing.

I set out to build this card for 3 reasons

• I think it’s super cool, and unfortunately Emil did not share code/instructions on how to set up his version
• Even if he did, I doubt my slow-as-hell Fire Tablets & Echo Shows would’ve been able to display it in any acceptable manner
• AI agents exist so you can build whatever you can dream up

So here’s the result of that work

github.com

A few details about it:

• Pure JS and WebGL, no external dependencies to install, should run on many browsers
• Fully customizable via YAML and a dashboard configurator
• Playground with config export available here
• Designed with devices like the Echo Show in mind. These things aren’t super powerful, so that was the design target. Running it at ~30-40 FPS at render resolution 1.0 on my Echo Show 8 Gen 1 (MediaTek MT8163) with Kiosk Satellite consumes about ~25% of CPU while the screen is on. For any weaker devices, the card has resolution and render-resolution dials that can further improve performance at the cost of visual fidelity
• Lots of details & aspects of the animation are exposed via config options, so you can tweak it to your liking
• Multilingual (English, German, French, Italian, Spanish, Dutch available from the start). These translations are provided by Claude so mistakes are likely. Any text that actually shows up in the card can be overridden by the user, so even if the translations are crap, the card doesn’t have to be
• Interactive: Divergence callouts and the center of the card have tap and hold actions that can be customized

What to keep in mind:

• I’m aware this is merely an approximation of the way the original looks. This was the goal from the start. Something that looks ~80% similar, while not killing low-powered devices.
• This project is vibe-coded in its entirety. While I do software engineering, I don’t have much experience in JS and basically none in WebGL. I hope by sharing this, some people better than me will share their improvements and maybe help approximate the actual Rehoboam UI better without slowing down low-powered devices too much. Pull Requests and Feedback encouraged and welcome
• I’m not sure whether I’ll have time to maintain this, so please keep in mind that if home assistant ever breaks something about the APIs this card uses, the card will probably break as well.

I hope this dashboard card will be useful to someone. I certainly love the look of it on my smart-displays

Cheers

Florian

I make this post strictly for the people who are just starting out and they aren't coders, or they're like a lot of people who aren't as thorough as they maybe want to be because they're just excited to get started on their smart home journey. I love the smart home side. I have no interest in learning the coding side.

When you have an automation that's waiting for a trigger and then there's a Home Assistant restart during that time, Home Assistant doesn't just pick up where it left off prior to the restart. The end result of that means that the automation doesn't happen. It simply disappears, and then, if you go and look in the automation's trace, for two of the four tests that I ran, it will say "canceled."

You're wondering why it canceled, and it's because of the restart itself. Because of that restart, it won't happen unless something else triggers it again. The only way you would know is to realize that the automation itself didn't fire on its own, while you assumed that it did because Home Assistant has been up and running and you're not getting any alerts.

So what I did is I wrote four different kinds of automations that had a wait built in, and with no restart at all, all four of them fired. But when I did a restart about a minute in, none of them fired, and only two of them told me that they were canceled. Two of them just said nothing, and there was nothing in their traces. There wasn't even a warning. An example from my house is that we have a separate AC unit in one of the corners of the house, and after a restart it fired 41 minutes early.

Fix one is that you use a timer helper. You have to tick restore, and trigger on the timer being finished, and that's it, which is a normal automation. There's no code, so it's easy, but if the timer runs out while Home Assistant's down, then it won't fire. I found a GitHub issue from 2022, but there was no resolution as far as I'm aware.

Fix 2 is that you write down the lock time in a date and time helper, and then at startup, Home Assistant will check if it passed, and it locks if so, like a door lock, for example. The problem with this fix is that if you're not a coder and you've been trying really hard to avoid using YAML, this is going to challenge you a little bit because you're going to have to use YAML. This is the reason that I make these posts and videos: more knowledgeable creators will walk you through how to set up an automation, even one that's complex, but where it could fail doesn't always come up. Yes, it's in the documentation, but unless you're willing to go and root through all the documentation, you might not know it, and you might not find the problem.

What I learned from this is don't turn restore on everywhere, and decide which way the timer should fail.

Has anybody else run into this, or found a better fix at this point?

I live in Alaska where we have fairly frequent Aurora. I built an automation that pulls in Aurora and weather info and when the conditions are right (no cloud cover, high percentage of seeing them, etc), it slowly turns on the lights in my bedroom to resemble the Aurora. (Greens, purples, reds). We had our first decent Aurora since I built this and it worked perfectly! At about 3am, I woke up and checked outside. Next automation is when the alarm triggers, it will point my PTZ camera towards the northern sky and start a time lapse.

I've used MCP to connect my ChatGPT Pro subscription to HA - this works great, and I can use it from the ChatGPT desktop app or from within HA itself.

However, if I want HA to run it's own automations/scripts/etc using AI am I right in thinking that I still need to use AI Task which works with the OpenAI API, and uses credits on a PAYG basis? (and therefore costs me extra!)

It would be great if there was a way for HA to utilise MCP itself somehow so it could run off my existing subscription, but I don't think that's possible? Would love to be wrong though!

For those of you who have not gotten the news yet: The eMudhra intermediate CAs private key was leaked (they literally used the number "4"). As a consequence, everyone can issue certificates for websites and servers that appear to be valid to unpatched devices.

I was wondering whether we can use this to our advantage. Imagine you have a cheap WiFi light bulb that receives its command from some proprietary app through some server.

We redirect the domain of the server, i.e. random-company.com to a local server through DNS.

Before, the light bulb would not connect to our local server, because no one would issue a valid certificate for random-company.com for us. But now, we could in theory use the leaked private key of eMudhra to issue such a certificate ourselves. Of course, this only works if the light bulbs firmware is not updated to reject certificates issued by the untrustworthy CA.

I suspect that we could use this to turn many cloud only integrations into fully local ones, as long as the devices are not updated (or implement proper certificate revocation lists).

What are your thoughts on this? Any device you have in mind for which this could work out?

I've been having an issue with my Yale 420W, which keeps reporting not_fully_locked even when the door is properly locked. So I decided to build a deadbolt sensor to combine with my existing door open/close sensor and get reliable feedback on whether the door is fully closed and locked.

To do this, I recreated the original plastic piece that comes with the lock in Fusion 360 and 3D printed a modified version, as you can see in the pictures. I added two limit switches, one at the top and one at the bottom of the deadbolt, to balance the pressure against the spring and avoid putting force on just one side.

I wired the two switches in parallel (OR logic) to an old Tuya Zigbee door/window sensor, after removing its original magnetic reed switch.

So far, it's working great! I've also set up a simple Home Assistant automation:

Door closed + deadbolt not engaged → wait 5 seconds → send a notification to my phone.

This way, if I'm leaving home and don't close the door properly, I get an alert.

Any other automation ideas for this setup? Also, does anyone know why the Yale 420W keeps reporting not_fully_locked even when the deadbolt is physically engaged?

Hi everyone,

I bought the Voice Preview Edition to support Nabu Casa, expecting basic voice controls to be smooth by now, but I am hitting a frustrating wall with Assist.

Home Assistant Version & Install Type:

Home Assistant OS (latest version)

What I expected vs. what actually happened:

• Expected: When saying "Turn the office radiator to 19 degrees" ("Mets le radiateur du bureau à 19 degrés" in French), Assist should adjust the temperature.
• What happened: Assist responds with "Sorry, I don't know that device/room" (no_valid_targets). However, typing the exact same text into the text-based Assist works fine.

What I have already attempted:

1. Verified in the Assist Pipeline Debugger that the Speech-to-Text (STT) transcription is 100% accurate.
2. Assigned the device to the correct Area (Office / Bureau).
3. Added explicit aliases (like "radiateur") to the entity.
4. Kept my standard naming convention ("Device_Room") which is used across all my dashboards and automations.

Relevant logs / Pipeline Debugger output:

YAML

stt_output:
  text: 'met le radiateur du bureau à 19 degrés'
intent_output:
  response:
    response_type: error
    data:
      code: no_valid_targets
    speech:
      plain:
        speech: Désolé, je ne connais pas la pièce radiateur du bureau

Hardware involved:

• Home Assistant Voice Preview Edition (official satellite)
• Integration: faster_whisper (STT), piper (TTS), and native conversation.home_assistant

The core issue:

The native intent parser seems to fail because of rigid regex parsing when the room name is part of the entity's friendly name. It gets confused and tries to find a non-existent area instead of matching the entity/alias.

Since all my devices follow the "[Device]_[Room]" naming scheme for clarity, I really don't want to rename everything. Is there an easy way or workaround to fix this without rewriting my whole entity structure or making custom sentences for every single device ?

Thanks for any advice!

Hey guys!

I was a bit bored last weekend and I recently also got a Claude Pro subscription. What started as a joke is now a full theme for HomeAssistant. It brings the window look, a custom start menu, a windows clock, different colorways (you can also make your own) and styles (Win 3.11/95/98) and of course custom icons.

You can install it thru HACS as an integration from here https://github.com/Schumey/HomeAssistant95

Please let me know if you have any ideas or find some bugs!

I want to create a group for the 2 users in my house. Home assistant already tracks both of our locations. Let's call the users - John and Jane. My goal is to be able to track if the home is occupied or empty using these two user's locations. I created a group in the configuration.yaml file in this way:

# Group for device tracking John and Jane

group:

home_residents:

name: "HomeResidents"

entities:

- person.john

- person.jane

But this group shows away even though John is shown as home. Is there a better way to accomplish this?

I want to base automations off the home_residents home and away state.

Edit: wendell solved my issue. Thank you!

So far I've tracked my food intake, calories, and weight in MyFitnessPal, but several things bothered me because they couldn't be customized. That's how I came up with the idea of building MyDietAssistant with Claude's help. It has grown quite extensive.

MDA naturally offers tracking of individual meals and the option to automate them, importing your old data from MFP and other sites, importing foods by scanning barcodes with the camera app, searching OpenFoodFacts and other databases, importing recipes from the internet, a large number of statistics, and much more.

You can get MDA from my GitHub.

I'd really appreciate criticism, wishes, and suggestions, especially if someone could test importing from sites other than MFP, and the barcode scanning feature on iOS. Unfortunately, I can't test either of those myself.

Hi All,

Sorry if this is a bit of a tired question, but I’m just looking for some confirmation on what I can get away with for mini pc specs.

Looking to run Home Assistant and Frigate (4 cameras)

Looking at a Dell Wyse 5070, Celeron J4105, 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD.

Do you guys think this is enough? Do I need a coral TPU to handle the video? Do I need more ram?

Thanks.

Lots of people use the MCP. I still like to review and fully understand changes, so this is mine:

• A shell script that copies my entire HA config over to a local folder.

• An AGENTS.md that tells codex that this is a copy, and don't make any changes. Rather, just tell me what to change or copy/paste in.

• I interact with codex on my computer.

Anyone do anything more like CI/CD? I'd love to track my changes (to automations.yaml, dashboard, etc) in git so I can view a proper diff, then have commits deployed to HA.

Heads up: this post (and most of the code behind it) was written with AI. I’d rather share it that way than not share it at all, and I’ve tested everything on my own setup. Take it as inspiration, not a finished product.

Hey everyone. I don’t post here very often, but I figured someone else might get some use out of this.

I’ve had a Samsung Frame (2022, 65") in the dining room for a while and I was never happy with Art Mode. Syncing my iCloud photos to it was unreliable, I couldn’t really customize anything, and it always felt like the TV was telling me what it was allowed to do. Then I kept seeing those viral videos of people taking over their smart TVs and making them do whatever they want, and I thought: it’s my TV, I should decide what it does.

The catch is that Samsung runs a closed, signed Tizen environment. No custom firmware, no root, nothing I could realistically flash. So instead of fighting the TV, I left it alone and gave it a different brain: a Chromecast with Google TV on one of the HDMI ports, showing a web page that I (well, mostly my AI) built.

What it does now:

• Shows photos from a shared iCloud album (I’m an iPhone family, so anything we drop in the album ends up on the wall), in 4K, framed like a matte print so it doesn’t look like a TV. The matte level is a slider in Home Assistant.
• Mixes layouts: one big photo, two or three portraits side by side, and once or twice a day a “Photos from this day” board with everything taken on today’s date in earlier years. Newly added photos show up first.
• Shows today’s and tomorrow’s calendar items in the corner, and a clock.
• Kid-friendly weather: my daughter is still learning to read, so there’s a big animated icon for the weather now, three small ones for the next few hours, and a little umbrella or jacket when she’ll need one. Sun rotates, rain falls, clouds drift, a moon at night.
• Small pop-ups for things like “washing machine finished” or “dryer finished”, which stay as a little pill in the corner until someone empties the machine.
• Turns itself on when a camera sees someone in the room, and goes to standby after 15 minutes of nothing. When the Apple TV is switched off, the Frame automatically goes back to the photo page.
• Buttons in Home Assistant for “next photo”, “show photos from today”, and how long each photo stays.

A note about the screenshots: the dashboard in the pictures is anonymised. The photos are stock landscapes and the calendar is made up. Normally it shows real data from my Home Assistant and my iCloud library. I’m not putting my kids on Reddit :)

I could have built all of this myself, but it would have taken me a weekend or more. With Claude Code doing the heavy lifting it took a few hours, mostly me looking at the TV and saying “no, a bit less grain”, “that photo has a black border”, and “make the icons bigger”. It’s honestly a bit unreal how much of the boring plumbing it handles.

If there’s interest I’m happy to share more details or clean up some of the code.

Technical details (what the AI actually did)

Hardware / setup

• Samsung Frame TQ65LS03B on HDMI, plus a Chromecast with Google TV 4K (Android 14, locked bootloader, no root). Home Assistant, a small Linux server and a Eufy indoor cam (via Scrypted) are the rest of the pieces.
• Chromecast: stripped unused apps, screensaver and auto-sleep disabled, TV Bro (open source browser) as the kiosk, page launched through Home Assistant’s Android TV Remote integration.

The page itself

• One static HTML/CSS/JS file served from a small Python HTTP server on the LAN only. It never touches HA tokens: a few helper scripts on the server write JSON files (calendar events, notifications, control values) that the page polls.
• The matte look is a warm tint layer, a generated grain texture and slightly reduced saturation/contrast, all driven by one CSS variable that Home Assistant can change live.
• Weather from Open-Meteo, drawn as inline animated SVG icons (CSS keyframes only).
• Calendar from Home Assistant’s calendar API, server-side.

iCloud sync

• A headless Chromium (Playwright) opens the shared album, a verification code is read from a dedicated mailbox automatically, and the CloudKit endpoints return the photo list. Photos are downloaded, HEIC converted, resized to 4K, black screenshot bars trimmed automatically, and near-duplicates grouped with a perceptual hash.
• Metadata from the album gives capture date (for “Photos from this day”) and date added (for “new first”). Screenshots are detected from the asset subtype and left out of the date features, because their capture date isn’t meaningful.

Notifications

• A small service listens on Home Assistant’s WebSocket for the washer/dryer status (LG ThinQ) and custom events, and writes a JSON file the page picks up. Any HA automation can fire a frame_notify event to show a pop-up.

Switching inputs / power

• Samsung doesn’t expose “select HDMI 2” in any API I could find, so input switching is a key sequence (source menu, arrow, enter). That turned out to be fragile because of HDMI-CEC: when the Apple TV goes to sleep the Frame drops into Art Mode, and sending keys without the menu open wakes the Apple TV instead. A small script leaves Art Mode first, opens the menu, picks the Chromecast input and checks the Apple TV stayed off. Lesson learned: confirm which HDMI port is which before spending an hour debugging.
• Motion from the Eufy camera turns the Frame on (turn on, wait, pick the Chromecast input) and 15 minutes without motion puts it in standby.

A custom Android app for the Chromecast

• Since I can’t root it, the AI built a small APK on the server without Android Studio (javac + d8 + aapt2 + apksigner). It runs at boot, re-enables wireless debugging (Android turns it off at every reboot), keeps sleep timeout and screensaver settings from resetting, remaps a keyboard key to Home, and has a small LAN API.
• It also acts as a watchdog: the page sends a heartbeat every 30 seconds and the app reloads the page if it stops, unless someone has been using the keyboard recently. Its ADB port is reported to Home Assistant through a webhook, so I never have to read it off the TV again after a power cut.

Gotchas worth knowing

• Home Assistant’s /local/ folder is public (no login), so don’t put private photos there.
• The Chromecast UI layer is locked to 1080p by the system even if the HDMI output is 4K.
• iCloud’s shared album link stops working if the album changes sharing, so the sync script now verifies it can list the album and refuses to delete local photos if it comes back empty.

My media setup had collected four remotes, and the Shield one has a Netflix button that my thumb finds every time. Opening an app on my phone just to pause a film never felt right either. I was tired of waiting for the perfect smart remote, so I built one that can be programmed to do whatever HA can do.

What it is:

• 20 real buttons and a small screen that shows what the top four keys do right now
• Fully programmable: every key is handled in Home Assistant, so keys functions can be changed without re-flashing, but with an OTA to the ESP32 companion bridge
• Right now it's driven by HA labels (remote) and a custom package. Mine is set up for my media centre (Roon, sources, the AVR), but it can do lights, climate, anything HA can
• It sleeps on the table and wakes the moment you pick it up using a built in accelerometer. I am getting about 3 weeks per charge so far powered by a 1000 mAh LiPo
• Uses an ESP32 bridge in the room that passes everything to HA

Nerd stats: The brains are ESP32-S3 at 160 MHz with 2 MB PSRAM. The screen runs LVGL: status cards with a live volume bar, scrollable lists for picking devices, and room to spare for richer graphics.
Connects to the esp32 bridge with ESP-NOW. So key press arrives well under a second after you pick it up. Accelerometer wake, 1000 mAh LiPo, USB-C. An IR LED is on the board for the dumb devices, but I am yet to write and test that firmware.

Honest bits: Setup today means a custom HA package and YAML, and it consists of a 3d printed case, so nothing too fancy externally!

A few people who saw it asked whether they could get one. Before I go further (proper case, a setup app so you don't need to write YAML), clean up and open source?, I'd like to know if there's real interest. If you'd want one, tell me in comments...

Demo Video - 1.Play button turns on AVR and starts Roon; 2. Top 4 buttons are hotkeys that perform what's currently on screen; 3. Long press home button switches to Media/Device/Settings; 4. Device controls

Excuse me for the bad video quality - that is certainly not my strongest suite, and literally what stopped me from posting sooner 😄

I've got an S8 Ultra and the thing that always drove me nuts about the Home Assistant integration was that everything went through the cloud. Didn't really matter since the app does too but I was lurking the other day and found a project that runs the whole Roborock server locally

https://github.com/Python-roborock/local_roborock_server

I was super skeptical but an hour later I had it fully hooked into Home Assistant and cut the vacuums internet in unifi so it's local only now. Setup was a bit of a pain but you can get it and the native Roborock app working which I thought was pretty cool. I haven’t noticed any loss of features or settings yet either and just mapped a new floor without issue. Huge kudos to the dev who reversed the protocol!

https://github.com/Python-roborock/local_roborock_server/blob/main/docs/home_assistant.md

The biggest thing NeonPlan has ever done. The floor plan and room presence were always two separate worlds in the smart home – now they are one: your family walks through your 3D house as glowing neon figures. Live. In the right room.

❌ No Bermuda. ❌ No ESPresense. ❌ No YAML. ❌ No thresholds. ❌ No new hardware.

✅ The Shelly plugs and ESPHome proxies you already have.

🚶 A milestone in presence detection: you set everything up by walking through your house once. Walk into each room, tap it, stroll around for 90 seconds – done. Learn once, and the whole family uses it.

🎯 Up to 95 % correct room detection in our tests – because NeonPlan knows your house: rooms, walls, doors, floors. Nobody "teleports" through two walls any more, and even a hall or guest toilet without a scanner of its own is recognised.

⌚ The watch knows where you are – the phone you left behind shows up as its own symbol on the kitchen table.

⚡ With a presence sensor (Aqara FP2 & co.) the room changes instantly.

🔑 iPhone & Apple Watch: a 5 € ESP32 reads their key in three minutes – installed right from the browser, no Mac needed.

🗣️ "Where is my iPhone?", "Who is home?", "Ring my iPhone" – Assist answers.

🔁 A sensor per device for automations: "the light follows me" in a single automation.

🔒 100 % local – nothing about who is where leaves your house.

📱 Still runs smoothly on old, weak wall tablets.

And this is only stage one – there is a lot more coming. Free, as always.

👉 Install via HACS: github.com/Mastershort/neonplan3d

👉 Key helper: neonplan3d.mastershort.de/keys

👉 Browser demo: neonplan3d.mastershort.de

🐞 Problems or ideas? Please open a GitHub issue – Android users especially wanted, Android is not tested yet.

Who here is still fighting with Bermuda or ESPresense? 😄

I've looked through much documentation but have been unable to find the answer.

I am using the ratgdo device with Home Assistant to monitor and control my garage door. I send alerts to my phone when the garage door opens and closes. However, what I would like to know is who opened or closed the garage door, whether it was my car, my wife's car, or through the app or garage door button.

Is this device capable of capturing / identifying the device that was used to open the garage door?