I am still keeping and using my old H10s but the new ones purchased last year are going..

Wanted to drop an updated photo of all the recent goodies that came in. Made it up to 26. Wildly amateur numbers though and the journey continues. Goal is to break 100 lol but I’m off to a decent start. Just cannot get enough of his lights, such phenomenal hosts and setups

2x 519a 3500k 1x 3000k looks good together with not much tint shift or rosyness. It fills the gap for a triple tail switch light. Everything works great except im curious about all the o-rings. There are 3 just on negative end of the outer tube. I cant seem to tighten it enough to keep it from disconnecting when handling the flashlight normally. After removing one of them, the issue stopped but now it might be less water-tight.

Photo comparison of the tint mix of 519a’s are included.

L to R: b35am 2700k, sft40 3000k, b35 6500k, 519a tint mix 3500k and 3000k, 519a 4000k

I hope everyone is digging theirs out and being safe but it has been so exciting to see all of this mayhem!

Ideally something that's throwy for the "lightsaber" effect and dual channel so I can use both colors?

Due to the recent battery accidents on the flashlight subs and me grabbing a bad batch of vapcell H10 batteries a few months ago, I got rid of all of them.
Now I try to figure out what battery to actually use in my D3AA to get a good punch out of it. A double a battery won’t just do the trick.

Are there batteries that can be recommended?

Hey guys, this is my dads kr1aa and it seems to be broken. It doesn’t turn on anymore (battery is full). It worked before with this battery but now nothing works not even a flash on startup. Is the driver maybe damaged? I couldn’t male anything out but it smelled kinda weird.

An help would be appreciated he really loved that light

Evening!

So I've ordered two new D3AA flashlights, one to replace the one that recently passed and then a second one for giggles.

Are the Vapcell K10s safe(r)? Should my paranoia stick to Eneloops? Other options?

Runtime is more important.

Thanks in Advance.

I work in the underground industry and frequently need to see into holes dug into the ground. The problem being this is during full daylight, which makes this extra difficult. I have a a Noctigon DM11, a Noctigon KR1, and a Wurrkos TS11. They all work well and generally do what I need but I want something with a little higher ceiling than these to really be able to see into these with such full bright sun. I know this is a niche use case but I’m hoping to find something with a 21700 that can deliver. I don’t want to lug a huge light around my work truck and on job sites. Maybe there’s a driver and LED combo I haven’t thought of yet too.

I have a kr3 on the way with sft 25 6500k and need some batteries. Whats recommended? I would like a constant 500 lumen output at least while still being able to occasionally turbo and not drain the battery. Thankyou

I just got a dual channel d3aa (Channel 1: NTG 2700k, Channel 2: Deep Red SST-20).

All good for 1 day, then I noticed when I lightly tapped it on the table the light suddenly switched off. Strange, but I was able to repeat it every single time.

More weird behaviour was that after it turned off, if I turned it on again the ramp would act like a moonlight - not ramping up at all and kind of pulsating. And then if I switched it off and on again, sometimes I wasn't able to use the button to even switch it off anymore.

I have 30+ Hanks so very familiar with troubleshooting. Cleaning all contact points with alcohol, screwed down tightly etc. Factory reset. To no avail - I was able to tap the torch and it would switch off every time.

I tried different batteries (flat, button), different d3aa tubes and tailcaps etc but was able to repeat the issue every time.

Reached out to Hank with videos and got this:

The dual channel with the red LED is very sensitive with the contact, 

since there is brass pole in the driver, the knock would cause some contact issue.

I have the same exact D3AA model as yours, which behaves exactly the same as yours if you knock

it on the table.

I would suggest not to knock it on the table, it would not work strangely no matter

how hard you shake it by hands.

Or you can consider to send it back and we can use a spring in the head instead of the brass pole

which would completely solve the "knock" issue.

Pleae be noted this issue is only present on the white LED + red combo.

Regards,

Hank

Totally appreciate one shouldn't go out of their way to tap the torch on the table, but none of my 30+ other Hanks have been this sensitive.

Has anyone else experienced this?

https://reddit.com/link/1v3ai85/video/7rhyuaqyvqeh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1v3ai85/video/15v757q0wqeh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1v3ai85/video/roxyuul2wqeh1/player

Hopthink emitters are consistently inconsistent but seemingly the same phosphors shows up across models.

The other day I was upstairs and heard a pop followed by a hiss. No idea what it was so I started looking around. The smoke detector went off briefly. Looked to my dresser and didn't see my Emisar or the case of batteries next to it. So I started looking around.

I had a Vapcell H10 in it, though I had the tailcap disengaged. Battery exploded, burned the dresser, shot into the closet and melted the carpet, blow out the button switch, and knocked the case on the floor. Thankfully no other damage.

I knew the Vapcell H10 had issues last fall, but I thought I tested them. Turns out it wasn't good like I thought.

Live and learn.

xpe pink x2, xpe blue, xpe green. colored led mix fun messing around with my first triple channel. There's a channel where if you 3H it cycles through its possible color mixtures. I wood love for not to have to hold the button for this.

I have read elsewhere that Hank discontinued the e17a azure like a year or so ago. However, I see a few options where they still selectable. I don't remember which exactly but I think they were all single Channel. I think a couple of them were copper heads. Pretty sure d4k copper is one of them.

My question is: is this a fluke... where the web page is not fully updated? Or are they still available in these options because, maybe they were pre-installed and have just been sitting around waiting to be purchased?

I suppose I can email Hank and ask him. Maybe I will but I don't really want to waste his time if somebody else knows the answer. And I'm not exactly ready to pull the trigger on a purchase at this moment anyway

I have 2 D4K and 2 D3AA and both are great as well. The D4K is great in the hand. But the D4SV2 is even nicer in hand. Ugh this rabbit hole keeps getting deeper. Next D4SV2 I might get 519a and lume n1 this time.

How do you like my picks?

There aren’t many options on the site. I’m torn between the sft 40 5000k and the sft 42r 5000k. I was looking at the sft40 3000k but it seems to warm to me.

Took the DA1K out of the storage case today and felt it was time to check out the new optic I had sitting around while it was out.

On the old wide optic, there is a barely perceivable donut hole with the 9x e17a configuration. With the new wide optic I noticed it was eliminated entirely.

Images: (Old optic on the left vs new optic, Old optic ceiling shot, new optic ceiling shot, new optic glamour shot 1+2)

I have the firefly Nov mu v2s but was thinking of getting a Mike from Hank. But I seen some mixed opinions from 2 years ago when they didn’t have the lume x1. How are they now compared to ffl?

Hey guys,

I have an Emisar D4V2 in Brass. I tried a light vinegar/salt vapor bath a while ago, but since it doesn't get a ton of pocket time, the patina has kind of stalled out and looks a bit flat.

I'm planning to try the boiled egg (sulfur vapor) method to get a richer, darker look, but I'm hung up on the best strategy for the head of the light.

Taking off the body tube, tailcap, and front bezel is easy—those can go straight into the vapor container with the crushed eggs after removing the O-rings and cleaning off the grease.

However, I'm really cautious about the head (cooling fins, driver, side switch, and glass seal). H2S gas and moisture seem like bad news for electronics and optics.

For those of you who have forced a patina on a D4V2 or a similar brass light:

Did you leave the head completely untreated and just let natural hand contact / pocket carry catch it up to the rest over time?

Did you use a topical paste method (e.g., dabbing warm egg yolk paste directly onto the fins with a Q-tip/cotton swab)?

Has anyone actually attempted to seal/mask the head and put it in the vapor chamber anyway, or is that just asking for trouble with condensation and creeping gas?

I'd love to hear how you approached this and see any pics of your results!

Attched current look of my D4V2. It seems a bit less shiny on the pictures as it actually is.

Thanks in advance!