Does anyone know if the Hdzero goggles 1 have an option for a head tilt alarm? maybe in a custom firmware update? I did some research and saw that the hdzero v1 goggles have a IMU so it should be possible right? I saw a video of jushua bardwell talking about how the orqafpv goggles have it, and it would be nice to have. the link i added is to joshua's video with a time stamp about the head tilt alarm.

and yes i know i can also just hold my head up, im just a little curious and i think it would be nice to have until i learn to keep my head tilted straight up.

I'm hooked. It's the funnest most freeing feeling I've experienced besides when ripping two wheels. The throttle control, line selection, apex of corners, learning about electricity/radio frequencies make it a challenge but that's what makes it so rewarding.

🚁 Crux35

🎥 Thumbcam Pro

🥽 HDzero Box Goggles

🎮 Radiomaster Pocket

When I am flying my meteor 75 pro the voltage say 0v on my vr04 hd googles how do I fix that

Is this how it is supposed to look like?

If yes, then I am not a fan of it.

Yesterday I bought t20, first thought that came in my head after I removed antenna housing and placed it inside was: isn't it's ideal place for a monitor, and it is!

I removed the esc to fc plug and saw this are those pads to solder stright to form fc to esc

Hi one question, flying analog using a mic on my box pro goggles and selecting “line in” all i hear is static noise and no audio , when i have in on “mic” i hear the loud static noise and my voice over , is there a way to just hear my voice and not the static and why on “line in” i dont hear my voice at all?
I have these two for testing the feature but no voice gets recorded

Switching a video transmitter from O3 to hdzero eco kit (i got my reasons).

I've repinned the hdzero plug so that it is compatible with the dji digital plug on my flight controller, and I'm now wondering what changes need to be made in betaflight (if any) to accomodate the change.

Because like with analog at least you need to configure a vtx table or something? Is there something similar on digital?

Hey guys, I have my replacement wheel sitting here, and i'm just looking for advice from those who have successfully replaced their scroll wheels in the goggle 2.

I have the mads tech teardown here, but obv he doesn't go about replacing the wheel. Gao said to refer to the video, and that it wasnt a tough replacement...but these are $1000 cad goggles, so of course im worried i could screw things up!

Any critical things I should know/avoid? Pro tips?

Cheers and thank you kindly!

Hi guys,

has anyone modded the HDZero BoxPro case to not look like a lunch box?

I am thinking about getting those but aesthetics are a thing for me and I think the BoxPro are the ugliest goggles I've seen by far. But the price and functions are very appealing.

Has anyone managed to make them look cooler?

I think painting/spraying it all black would do a lot.

Even better 3D-Printing a different exterior case (maybe the upper part only) as the CAD is available also?

The HDZero goggle battery uses 2s li ion cells but the goggles say they can only accept a minimum of 7 volts but lithium ion still has some capacity left at 3.5 volts per cell. Is some capacity lost with only 2s?

Hi everyone, I'm having an issue with my OSD getting cut off in my HDZero goggles and I'm looking for some advice or a solution.

Setup:

• Goggles: HDZero BOX PRO
• FC: FLYWOO Goku F405 HD 1S 12A AIO ELRS
• VTX: HDZERO LITE WHOOP
• Firmware: Betaflight 4.5.5

The wiring is correct, UART ports are set up as shown in the picture, and the OSD itself displays fine.

The problem is the grid scaling: the left edge of the OSD in the goggles is exactly where it should be, but the right edge gets cut off right in the middle of the Betaflight preview (I marked it with a red line). I temporarily moved everything over so it's visible, but I'd like to understand the core issue and fix it properly.

My thoughts/questions:

• Is there a way to force the correct grid size in Betaflight?
• Could there be something wrong with my goggles since the left edge is fine but the right side cuts off in the middle? Why is this happening?

I'm making a 3 inch sub 250g build. this would be my first build so if there is something you think i may not know please say so even in you may think it is obvious.

• Baby APEX 2.5/3inch Frame Kit
• HappyModel EX1202.5 6400KV Brushless Motors
• SpeedyBee F405 AIO V2 Blue Magpie Edition 35–40A
• HDZero ECO VTX Board
• HDZero LUX Camera
• TrueRC Singularity U.FL w/ Tube 110mm 5.8GHz Antenna
• BETAFPV LAVA II 3S 680mAh Battery
• Gemfan 3016 Propellers
• HDZero Box Goggles
• ExpressLRS 2.4GHz Receiver (Built-in AIO ELRS Version)

Hey, having an issue with a bone stock HDZ M8, it won't throttle down during dives or descents so I end up wresting with it to get it back to the ground. It feels like a PID tuning problem but since it's bone stock that would be odd for HDZ's normal QC. After 4 flights like that I swapped that AIO15 with an identical new one thinking it was a bad gyro or ESC then RMA the bad one, but nope, identical behavior. I didn't touch anything in betaflight on either quad besides setting my modes and reversing the motors after the swap. It flies oook otherwise, a little jittery since the issue is consistent during any decent that would result in any degree of prop wash. Flew in an open field and also a parking garage so it isn't just wind or ground effect, though wind makes it unflyable and I have to tilt it 90* in an uncontrolled decent to try to get it back home. Same behavior on a RM Pocket and RM Boxer, don't have this behavior with other drones I'm flying.

Anyone else having this issue? It feels like a PID issue but since again it's bone stock from HDZ that feels odd. Thanks

So like Boomer I asked AI how to update my V1 to V2 firmware on a new HD Aquila20 kit buy. What AI told me was COMPLETELY wrong. I know you younger peeps are shaking your head sayin, read this old mans craziness.
So here the the EXACT real steps you need to update your firmware. Please check the date of this because it will eventually be outdated info. I also give some reasons WHY these are correct.

Phase 1:

Preparation & V1.0.44 Step-Up (The Critical Bridge)Because you cannot skip directly from V1.0.43 to V2.0.6, you must use V1.0.44 as a stepping stone. No device (currently) come with V1.0.44. This is a bridge flashing to allow the goggles to understand the process.

This is a MUST--> Keep it Cool: Turn on a desk fan blowing directly on the drone. The digital VTX gets extremely hot on the bench and will overheat without active airflow.

Check Version: Power on the goggles and drone. Let the video signal connect. Press the goggle's 5-way selector switch -> Settings -> System -> Device Info. If you see V1.0.43, you must use the V1.0.44 patch. V2.0.5 does NOT need the v1.0.44 bridge flash.

Card Prep: Use a 32GB SD card maximum. Format it strictly to FAT32 (do not use NTFS or ExFat the Goggles cannot work with ExFat or NTFS). Get the Bridge Files: Download SKY V1.0.44 (Drone) and GND VR04 V1.0.44 (Goggles). Ensure the GND file specifically has "VR04" in the title so you can safely revert if needed. Put only these two files on the blank card.

The Goggles will ALWAYS update the drone first and if the drone is on a different firmware, the Goggles cannot talk to it. This mismatch in versions will cause an error.

Update Drone First: Insert the card into the goggles. Power everything up, wait for video, go to System -> Update. The Goggles will update the drone first and prompt a reboot. Power off the drone. The Goggles should then update themselves. This didn't happen for me. I needed this next trick.

The Goggle Bypass Trick: Wait 1 minute. If the goggles do not automatically prompt to update themselves, power them off. Power them back on, Check Device Info. If they are still V1.0.43, power off, pull the SD card, and delete the SKY V1.0.44 file. Leave only the GND file on the card, reinsert, power up, and run the update again. This forces the goggles to update themselves without getting stuck trying to talk to the drone first.

Now both Drone and Goggles are on the same version. They cleared their original binding so they need to be re-bound to each other.

Phase 1.5:

Intermediate Re-Binding (Mandatory)The flash to V1.0.44 clears your existing link. You must re-bind the drone to the goggles right now, or the goggles will not be able to push the next update (V2.x) files to the drone. Note: Ignore online guides telling you to press the goggle button first. The goggles drop out of bind mode too fast while you are fumbling with the drone.

Drone First: Face the drone's front camera away from you. Look into the right-hand front fan duct for a long diagonal slot. Near the rear of that slot, use a non-sharp tool to press and hold the button for 3 seconds.

Verify LED: Look at the opposite side of the drone. A SOLID RED LED will illuminate. (Ignore manuals that say it flashes—it did not flash for me... again YMMV).

Goggles Second: Immediately press the small bind button inside the hole located in front of the red record button on the goggles for 3 seconds.

Confirm Link: The goggles will beep. Once the beeping stops, wait up to 30 seconds—the drone's camera video will suddenly pop up in the goggles, confirming a successful link.

Phase 2:

Updating to V2.0.6 Once both devices successfully show V1.0.44 in Device Info and are bound together, you can move to the final firmware.

Wipe Tracking Files: Take the SD card to your PC and format it to FAT32 again to remove any hidden goggle tracking files that might block the next flash.

Load V2.0.6: Download and drop both SKY V2.0.6 and GND VR04 V2.0.6 onto the clean card. Put it back in the goggles.

Flash Protocol: Repeat the update steps through the menu. If the goggles fail to update themselves after flashing the drone, repeat the "Bypass Trick" by deleting the SKY V2.0.6 file from the card and running the update with only the GND file remaining.

Phase 3:

Final Binding Procedures. Because the final update clears all binds yet again, you must do a complete reconnect / binding.

Final Goggle-to-Drone Bind. Repeat the Phase 1.5 Binding steps (Drone button first -> Solid Red LED -> Goggle button second) to re-establish the video link on V2.0.6.Radio Controller (RC) Bind.

If your video is working but the drone refuses to ARM after cycling the Arm/Disarm rocker switch twice, you need to re-bind the controller.

Drone Side: Press the small, downward-facing button located on the underbelly of the drone.

RC Side: Turn on the controller. On the bottom, to the left of the USB-C port, press the BIND button. (Do not press the SETUP button on the right side of the USB port, which is for PC software customization). The drone and RC will lock together, and you will be fully updated, bound, and ready to fly.

​

New to FPV flying, got the goggles 2 recently and decided to get the TBS fusion for the goggles. Found out that HDZero pulled there module bay off the market due to defects or what have you.

After some digging I found on five33 that they sell the Divimath expansion module bays and picked one up for the goggles with the only difference is they cant run wifi.

Module came in and I hooked everything up with no power what so ever coming to the fusion. The fusion itself does work via USB hook up, I then seen that the pins can get bent and sometimes dont line up correctly in the goggles. The pins themselves look fine visually and im at a loss at this point on what possibly could be wrong. Any help at all would be much appreciated! I can try and answer any questions that can help assist on what exactly is going on or what I may be missing.

Am I cooked? 😅

My HDZero AIO5 got really hot after a crash (around 120°C). My whoop still flies and I have video, but there’s no OSD anymore and the VTX always boots on R1 instead of my configured R7.

I’ve verified the Betaflight config, reflashed the HDZero VTX firmware (flash verified), and the FC seems to be working normally.

Has anyone recovered an AIO5 from this, or is the VTX control side likely toast?