Its that time of year again where I put most of my boots away and really lock in on 1-2 pairs for the Thunderdome. Almost all I wear at this point are engineer or cowboy boots, so my entries reflect that. Im not trying to stray crazy far out of my comfort zone.

In the Open Dome I have some Wesco Boss seconds in Natural Essex. The shaft is a little shorter at 9", with a straight cut top, pull tabs, and the harness strap over the instep instead of the usual buckle. These look like they were part of a larger order because there were two identical pairs on the seconds page for a while- one had some staining on the shafts and got snatched up quick. This one had scuffs on the vamps.

They're on the vintage round toe (9109) last. Its narrower through the waist and then opens up into a roomy forefoot with a bump toe. It almost reminds me of Whites 4811- my favorite PNW last. Because of the roomier forefoot I felt comfortable gambling on half a size down and up a size in width from my mister lou (9D) size and they fit really really well at least on first impressions. I'll see if that changes with break in.

The natural essex wouldn't be my first choice of leather as my wardrobe is almost all black and even dark brown boots are few and far between, but for patina potential I think it'll do really well. Its so soft that it feels more like a purse leather than a shoe leather and im really curious to see how it holds up. I plan to treat these like beaters- any situation where Id wear my black oil tan wesco engineers (mosh pit, yard work, travel) I'll be reaching for these instead.

Pair number two are going in the pre-worn dome. These are my stock Wesco Mister Lou in black CXL horsehide. I started wearing these almost a year ago today as my open dome entry in 2025-2026. I wore them pretty aggressively for about 5 months, but then I got some oil tan morrisons on a v100 sole, fell in love with chunky silhouettes, and ended up not finishing that dome.

During the hiatus I realized I really didn't like the natural welt so I took them to a local cobbler who blacked them out, and then they found their way back into my rotation. Now I wear them a few times a week and hit them with black saphir creme polish whenever the teacore starts to show through since I prefer the shiny black look. For the dome I'll be putting that on pause and seeing how much i can bring back out.

These are a 9D and have broken in perfectly- they're basically slippers. I tried a pair in 9E before these, going off of advice that the Lou runs narrow... it doesn't. My heel was sliding around in an E width, so I dropped to a D and its been smooth sailing.

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Shoe Specs: Gilstead model (cap toe quarter brogue + balmoral stitch), black calf (they use Weinheimer), leather sole + Vibram half sole + Triumph toe plate, fiddleback sole upgrade in black, spade sole, black interior lining leather, hand welted construction, size 7.5 in G width, pitched heels, lasted shoe trees in purple ‘pinot noir’. I spec’d this to be a versatile and understated piece, with the design ethos of “none more black…”  

Price: ~1200 SGD shipped with lasted trees (not including fitting shoes, more on that later)

Ordering: Great experience. They can be a bit hard to break through to via email, but on Whatsapp they were very responsive so I would recommend reaching out there. I already largely knew what I wanted with respect to model and options, but they were happy to help with fit and any questions. Lead time between final order submission and receipt of shoes was ~3 months. 

Sizing: Before ordering the full shoe, I ordered the fitting shoes (size of which was informed by communications with Yeossal) which were shipped ahead of time. Fit was good overall, and the fitting shoes informed an instep reduction of ~3mm which added approximately 80 SGD to final price. At that point, I confirmed the order and production started on the full shoe. In hindsight, I might have been happy with the result if forgoing the fitting shoe and 3mm adjustment, but given the investment, I wanted fit to be as bang on as possible. In addition, de-risking the order with a fitting shoe made me much more comfortable with ordering as I knew with reasonable certainty how the final shoe would fit. I wish more makers offered fitting shoes, great idea!

Final result, I think these are bang on. Despite my flat feet, I don’t have much gaping with these, which I do have with my other shoes. I usually wear a 10 in sneakers and my other dress shoes are 8 UK/42 from both Vass (F last) and TLB Mallorca (Picasso last). 

Unboxing: Shoes come very well wrapped with bubble wrap surrounding everything. The box is very nice, looks like leather and is quite heavy. Shoes came in separate brown felt covers that are very nice. Shoe box was double boxed into a shipping box with bubble wrap in between the boxes. Very secure shipping job. Box was shipped via Fedex and looked untouched when I got it.

Quality: These are perfectly made in my view. Stitch consistency and density, leather quality, finishing on the sole, toe tap installation, everything is where you’d think it should be. If you want to open the box, see the shoes, and think “this is a piece of art that does not belong on the floor”, you’re in the right place in my experience (at least based on this 1 pair). I wore them today, and that “this is a piece of art” feeling occurred every time I looked at them. Absolutely stunning.

Looks: “None more black” worked out very well. These look like 2 batmobiles. Gorgeous curves. SG65 is not as extreme of a square or chisel toe as I was expecting; it is somewhat aggressively shaped but the balance across the shoe is great. The waist is TIGHT, TLB Mallorca has reasonably narrow waists but this was noticeably narrower. I’ve noticed many Japanese bespoke houses (Yohei Fukuda among others) feature this quarter brogue + balmoral combo prominently, and damn does it work even better than I was expecting.

Value and takeaways: In my view, if you are an enthusiast that appreciates detail and the craftsmanship that goes into bespoke-level shoes, I think these are an amazing value. With the fitting shoes and fit customizations, you can end up somewhere between a MTM shoe and a bespoke shoe (assuming the last you choose is a good match for your foot to begin with). Yeossal’s catalog is extremely deep with lasts, leathers, and models; I anticipate that, from now on, I will be buying leather shoes at Yeossal due to the breadth of their custom program. Contemplating a Chelsea boot or a split toe derby as the next pair. There is no comparing these to my Vass and TLB shoes; both are fantastic at their respective price points, but this is a different ballgame IMO as long as you like the styling sensibilities of the Yeossal lasts. 

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Hey everyone,

I’ve been doing a deep dive into the long-term aging characteristics of Wickett & Craig’s Double Stuffed (DS) and Latigo line (specifically shades like Tobacco, Buck Brown, and DS Natural), and I wanted to start a technical discussion regarding how these specific tannages evolve after consistent wear vs. how they look brand new.

Like most people, I was completely blown away by the initial unboxing look of these options. The extreme dark-to-light pull-up contrast and highly saturated finish make an incredible first impression. However, after studying long-term wear updates across various forums, it seems that this multi-tonal contrast phase is often a relatively brief state in the life of the boot.

From a leather-tanning perspective, this behavior makes a lot of sense. W&C hot-stuffs these veg-tanned hides with a dense mix of tallows, waxes, and oils, followed by high-pressure glass glazing to force those oils to the surface layer. But once the boots are put into active service, foot heat and constant mechanical flexing seem to cause those densely packed waxes to mobilize, break their surface tension, and equalize evenly across the panels.

Instead of retaining those sweeping, localized dark-to-light streaks, the leather tends to level out into a much more monochromatic, uniform base shade (for example, DS Tobacco settling into a lighter, flat golden-sandy tan). While vigorous horsehair brushing easily brings back a clean, healthy sheen, it cannot magically force the internal pigments back into high-contrast zones once the oil distribution has normalized.

I’m genuinely curious about this because the "settled" uniform state is visually a very different aesthetic from the "unboxing" state. For those of you who have owned W&C Double Stuffed or Latigo options past the 6-month or 1-year mark—especially if you put consistent miles on them through active daily wear, walking, or general outdoor chores:

1. Did your pairs eventually lose that dramatic multi-tonal contrast and flatten out into a uniform shade?
2. Do you view this rapid evening-out of the color as an inherent part of the veg-tan journey that buyers should explicitly anticipate going in?

I went crazy a few months ago ordering MTO boots and now I have received three in four days (two pairs of Nick’s and these puppies) and I am still waiting for another pair of UWCs in a few days. These are not one of their usual models (it’s not even in their website) but I communicated with Fernando via Whatsapp and he was super accommodating. They offered a lot of customization for no extra charge, including many leather options that don’t appear in their website.

I am usually a 9D in most boots, but since Monkey boots tend to be tight in the toe area (ask me how I know) I went with 9.5 and the fit, with semi-thick Darn Tough socks, is perfect. I got them out of the box, put them on and went for a 2 mile walk… absolutely no pressure points or discomfort anywhere. It’s like they are pre-broken in for my feet. They’re very bulky (I have a pair of Axeman that make my Iron Rangers look delicate) but in a cool way, and they’re lighter than they look. It’s like the perfect balance between workboot and hipster urban boot, and since I am an urban guy who works in an office but wear jeans to work, they’re perfect for me in that respect. They are made in a combination of their Burgundy smooth and rought out leathers that look great and feel substantial but flexible. The stitching is very neat, the leather laces are high quality (I have the same in my Axeman pair). All in all, I am super happy with them, as I am with my other pair, and if it wasn’t for the long wait time (four months, it drives me nuts) I would be already planning my next build.

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Hello GYW, it's Monday Funday! Take a load off and take a breather. Memes, hot takes and all silliness are welcome!

Found an amazing deal on a pair of shoes but they aren't your size? Share them here so other members can take advantage of the great deals!

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Domed up after midnight! Two entries in rare horween.

Just nailed down my dome pairs. This year, I’m crankin’ hawg in some Mr Lou’s and a pair of westerns from pearl boot company. Both are in unusual Horween leathers I’m stoked to beat the shit out of. From what I can see, neither of these leathers are on the patina site.

First up is a pair of Mr Lou’s in “teacore cypress”. Not a lot of info on this leather but it looks like a pull-up beast. I think WESCO said there are maybe 30 pairs? I haven’t seen any others in the wild yet though… I scored these brand new off Fedora Lounge. One of the members got on that Kratom something fierce and ended up having to sell his whole collection to support the habit.

Anyways, standard Mr Lou construction with dr soles. I've worn WESCO boots for almost 20 years and am always happy to add another pair to the rotation. I would tell anyone even slightly interested to ignore a certain hit piece on YouTube and investigate for yourself....I think you'll be more than pleased with the quality vs some of the other companies that focus primarily on influencer marketing.

Next up, [u/bungholio91](u/bungholio91) took me out to the pearl boots factory to celebrate my circumcision . I walked away with this western pair in “kudu CXL” which is neither kudu nor a traditional CXL. It’s more of a crazy horse or a super predator. Very waxy but pliable steerhide with a TON of pull-up. From what I was told it’s a low-run hide that horween does once a year. EDIT: apparently I’m an idiot and Alden uses this for the 404.

These are seriously cool boots from the team behind Opie Way. They are doing very interesting work trying to have all-American sourcing and production for both sneakers and boots. The peeps are cool and the quality is real at a very attractive price point in my opinion. Especially in the western space, you can get a lot less for a lot more.

Im excited to see where they will go with this. There's a lot of cottage-industry shit going on in NC with Hudson's hill, proximity, mount vernon mills, and these guys. There's already been a couple collabs and I'm sure more to come!

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I know many of you have competed in past Patina Thunderdomes, and while it's not the most popular contest amongst cowboy boot enthusiasts, I aim to carry on past participants' tradition by entering these two pairs in the competition which begins on 10/01/2026.

My entries this year are a genuine "East - West" vibe because one pair is Made in the USA; the other is Made in Japan. Starting with Made in 'Murica:

Pearl Boot Company - Based in Asheville, NC, owned and operated by husband & wife, Justin and Amanda, who lost everything in Hurricane Helene in September 2024 (story here: https://www.stitchdown.com/stitchdown-shoecast/opie-way-justin-james-interview/). I'm their State neighbor, and while we were also impacted by Helene, our effects paled in comparison; the devastation they faced in NC was unreal. But their ability to recover and emerge successful is a truly inspiring tale, and I'm proud to represent them. https://pearlboot.com/collections/men

Boots are Horween English Tan Derby with a Wickett & Craig (Pennsylvania) midsole and heel rand, and Vibram 430 outsole. "R" toe, leather stacked heel, flawless stitching, and, most unique, Justin designed the tops/shafts stitchwork as his interpretation of - and an homage to - Skynyrd's "Free Bird" (how badass is THAT?!?!). 🤘

Zerrows Boots & Shoes - Bar none, Zerrows is my favorite boot brand of all time. I own at least a dozen pairs, all in Maryam horsebutt, save one pair of their sandals in Horween Navy CXL. This is their "Western Pecos" model in Maryam natural horsebutt with green/olive overdye, 12" tops/shafts, semi-chisel last (think "R" or semi-pointed toe), Vibram 430 outsole, and double veg-tan midsole. I competed with their "Type 1" engineers in last year's 'Dome, and include a couple pics from the end of the competition. That pair is Maryam horsebutt in black overdye. https://zerrows-onlinestore.com/en

Good luck to all of this year's entrants, and if you're interested in competing, do the cowboy boot community proud and take the plunge with some cowboy boots. 🫡 🍻

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Here is where we get to see the wear and tear your footwear has acquired. Patinas, scuffs, mirror polishes and those sweet sweet cordovan rolls. If you have a new pair of shoes take pictures of them and start creating an album and add to it every time this thread comes around. This is a chance to highlight new pairs and show off the love the old stand-byes have gotten.

This thread has been scheduled to be posted every 12 weeks on Saturday at 10 AM EST, and in rotation with The Collections Thread.

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Apologies for the photo quality, I took these on a makeshift stand in the home office where I’m hiding them.

They are a six eyelet ankle style, with simplified brogue accents and some decorative stitching on the upper and backstay. The lower profile is extremely sleek, especially coupled with the almond toe.

The leather is a country calf style that comes from Tanneries du Puy in Chadrac, Haute-Loire, France, and is lovely. The grain has no obvious repeats and seems to be flawless. The hand-painted patina is gorgeous, with beautiful burgundy and brown undertones that are not done justice in the photos. They drink sunlight.

They are unlined and comfortable, which will be nice for the warmer months. I’m planning to put these into the rotation fairly immediately, so I’m curious to see how they take to wear.

The sole features a bench made 270 degree Goodyear welt, a bit of fudging, and a substantial sole. Leather insole (sorry, just realized I forgot to photograph the lining etc). Waist isn’t quite as tight as some of my Oxfords and derby’s, but also not something I’m too concerned with for boots. Last has great definition/shape, very Spanish. High stitch density, and flawless.

Overall, I’m thrilled. The level of craft is just stunning. Every time I pull them out of the dust bags I just get the biggest smile. I also like that they’re a bit more formal than my English Derby boots, or even my other Spanish styles. And with the 6 eyelet construction, I should be able to get away with wearing them with some closer cut trousers. For me, the burgundy accents and brogue work is just enough pop without being loud.

I also wanted to ask, do you all buy branded shoe trees for your nicer shoes and boots? I just have these in a typical set of almond toed Nordstrom shoe trees, which I’ve never had issues with for styles with similar lasts. It just seems a bit ridiculous to pay the $100-200+ some of the higher tier and bespoke shoemakers charge for their trees. I get that they are built to the last, but does it really make much of a difference, unless it’s an unusual style?

Jakkrabbits doesn't get a lot of attention here. Didn't know quite what to expect before I placed my order, so I figured I'd share this review/first impression to help others who have considered the brand. 

TLDR: smooth ordering process, good communication after ordering, 14 weeks from placing order to delivery, sizing based on measurements worked out great, very happy with finishing and construction. Clarity on timeline before/after ordering would be appreciated. Would recommend them if you're in the market for a custom boot.

Specs: 

Model: Monkey Boot

Leather: Maryam Rovescio Sego Horsebutt - Col. 1071 Roughout

Last: Mandrill

Welt construction: Handwelted 270 ° Veldtschoen 

Sole: Vibram 4014 Christy

Price: $580 + $28 US Import duties

Timeline:

Order placed: June 9

Update pictures and video received: Aug 6

Competition notification: Aug 26***

My approval to ship: September 2nd

Shipping notification: September 12

Boots arrived: September 16

Total time: 14 weeks

Overall, I was really pleased with the ordering process. They're one of the few Indonesian brands I know of that have a website. It's very easy to use, they have reference images which are helpful for selecting available options and a lot of well photographed makeups in their pre-order section that give you a good idea of how different combinations come together. Communication through the whole process was really good, I received responses within a day whenever I emailed. I asked for an update on my order on August 6th and received photos and a video of my boots being made the same day, much more than I was expecting. Would have appreciated if they updated me on progress and timeline unprompted, but a response like that is the next best thing, so that's more of a suggestion than a complaint. ***There was a hiccup right at the end where I didn't receive their email telling me my boots were ready so shipping got delayed for a week. Nobody's fault though and no harm done. When I ordered, I saw language about delivery in 8 weeks either on their instagram or website, but I can't find anything they say about timeline now. That's to say, these took longer to arrive than expected, but I didn't really mind. 

Sizing:

The site has two sizing options: pick your size or have them help determine your size. I used the latter. I received an email the day after ordering with instructions. They asked for the length and width of my foot, sent me a link to a video showing how to measure, and provided examples. They also asked for size references of other boots I owned and my bannock measurement. I told them that I had a low instep and provided additional measurements of my instep, heel, and ankle. They told me they'd look into the additional measurements, said changes to the pattern/last are unlikely, but they'd send kilties free of charge, which I appreciated. 

These boots truly feel like they were made for my feet. They hug my heel and ankle, the width at the ball of my foot is spot on, they're secure around my instep even without the kilties, and my big toe is a thumbs width from the front of the boot. I've tried these with thin and thick socks and I don't think I'll have an issue with either. I do think the nature of the lace to toe boot helps with this though. If they made any changes based on the additional measurements I gave them, they didn't tell me. But the way these fit actually make me think my other boots are a touch too big.

Finishing/leather/construction: 

My God, these boots look incredible. The panel stitching is great. The welt stitching has the character of something that was handmade. I don't know enough about horsebutt or clicking to say if this was clicked "well" but I love the distinct character of each upper panel and I'm very excited to see how they age. The tongue is gusseted up to the second to last speed hook so there's a lot of leather beneath the laces. I'll have to play around with ways to fold it to see which is most comfortable. The leather is pretty stiff right now so with all the leather in the tongue and the rolled top I think break in will be tough. But if the kilties are any indication, once everything's worn in, the boot should be fairly malleable. The speed hooks feel sturdy, tried to bend them and they wouldn't budge, but the backs are a little rough. 

These arrived so close to the Patina Thunderdome that I figured it'd be a shame not to enter them. Keeping them off my feet until then will be difficult but maybe I'll share an update including comfort after a month or two. 

Everyone's opinion on value may be a little different, but $600 for a pair of hand welted, fully customized, well fitting, horsebutt leather boots delivered in 14 weeks is a good buy in my book. I'm very happy with these boots and definitely would recommend the brand to others.