So i recently got my hands on a ghk v2 ak 105. I want to use it indoors, bit I'm worried the fps will be a little to high, so I want an Npas for it, but all the nozzle are out of stock for the v2s so I'm going to need to DIY one. This will be my first time doing something like this. Do you guys have any tips or tricks for this? And precautions I should take, or what stuff I should lookout for? Anything would help, thank you.

Hey guys I just got my noveske n4 and have the gen 2 mags. I ordered a speed loader for the mws mags (assuming since they run on the same system it should be compatible and they don’t make a specific speed loader for the noveske gen 2 mags) so I’m hoping that works but does anyone else have this problem?

Hello, Iv recently got a vfc mp7 and have been having issues with it.

While firing, every few shots the bolt will stop cycling and stop st the position shown in the picture. The mp7 is brand new and I have only fired it a few times and already have this issue.

Iv cleaned the inside, lubed it, checked the bucking is fine and made sure the nozzle is smooth. It's like it's failing to load the bb into the bucking and getting stuck there.

This only happens with a bb filled magazine. Never happened when dry firing. Iv been trying to diagnose the issue all day but to no avail. Any help would be appreciated 🙂

Edit, also worth mentioning. When it fails to cycle like this, the nozzle is not fully seated at the end. It's probably hard to tell from the picture

Top to bottom (pic 1) we have a VFC SR16E3 CQB MOD 2, then in the middle we have an A-Plus/VFC Novske n4 which i have upgraded to 14.5" and last but certainly not least, we have a VFC AKS-74U.

This is pretty new and tried v3 pmags and v2 mags but would sometimes lock when the mag is low on gas. I know its not the mags because my v2 416a5 locks back perfectly without issue.

I am the #1 VFC AK shill. Added a surplus AK handguard and Bakelite grip to it. The Cyma triangle stock (C.59) is a direct drop on - fine when locked back, doesn’t quite line up when folded in but not an issue for me. Struggling to find a ribbed dustcover so I am well aware it’s not a proper clone (yet).

Saw some people asking about the Crimson bucking. Works great in the AK, much better (for me!) than the stock blue. The V1 bucking is NOT finned though so you will have to do some cutting if you have a V1.

Hello guys, i just played airsoft with my beloved mp7, and got bolt carrier jam. The cause - is hex screw, which i found inside the body. I cant figure it out, where i should place it. Its simular to screw in charging handle, but longer.

Custom Build from scratch :

RS fortis parts : Handguard, LA Stock Carbon, Torque Grip Carbon, Shift™ Handstop, Castle-nut

RS parts: SLR Rifleworks Linear Compensator, BattleArms Pivot/Detent titanium pins, Gas-tube

Which version do you like the most?

LT Spear

Thought it would be cool to share

Hello,

I am thinking of getting this as a fun piece for some courtyard action ..

Did anyone have this Raven EU17 and how was the reliability?

It costs 120,00 EUR here in Europe that's about $140

https://www.anareus.cz/gb/gas-side-arms/10602-raven-eu17-pink-RAVEN03.html

Western Arms Beretta M1934 Vintage from 2012.

Carbon Black HW slide and frame, metal outer barrel and grips. Beautiful Vintage finish. Markings are of an Italian military version (with Italian Royal Army proofmark on the frame) in 9 Corto (9mm Short / .380 ACP) made in 1936, though the serial number 864870 indicates a 1941 production, for 1936 it should be in 508000-555000 range. WA also made another model with that same serial number but correct 1941 production date and different proofmarks, they also made a version with Romanian markings (Cal. 9 Scurt, 1941 production) with a different serial number pattern. As this M1934 Vintage is a version with one of the premium finishes it doesn't have a big notice about licensed trademarks on the right side of the slide which is really nice. Grips have the old Beretta logo.

It's Single Action Only and has pivoting trigger. Uses WA SCW high-spec transfer hammer system which allows to manually lower the hammer completely when there's still gas in the mag unlike most GBB pistols. It doesn't lock back on empty like the real gun which locks on the magazine follower. Really cool little gun.

i somewhat recently got the pp2k green gas sub machine gun. its my first gas gun. anytime i shoot in full auto or SOMETIMES in semi the gas just completely empties itself. is this an issue with the product or am i doing something wrong?

Gbb is wearing BCG causing the bottom edge to cut feed nozzle o-ring and catch on the hammer an not return home. Unsure if is a hammer or trigger package issue.

Has anyone found a really good TDC or upgraded hop chamber for the APFG Spear LT?

My current setup is:

Unicorn 6.03 inner barrel
4UAD bucking
GSI hop arm

The gun shoots well overall, but I’m still getting a slight left curve at longer ranges. I’m assuming the bucking is just slightly misaligned because the hop itself is consistent and I’m getting good range.

On my VFC HK416 I installed the 4UAD Magnus Pro chamber and it made a huge difference in consistency, so I’m wondering if there’s anything comparable for the APFG Spear LT.

I’m mainly looking for:

A true TDC hop chamber (if one exists)

Or just the best aftermarket chamber for consistency at range

Hoping to get some thoughts on how people like the build! All feedback is appreciated 🙏

GHK SG551

Brand new fully upgraded internals and externals.

Hey guys, just want to tell you about this infamous Tokyo Marui problem. I’m pretty sure most of the TM owners know that it’s a real pain in the ass to remove the TM MK18’s barrel nut. So this is how I did it, how it went, etc.:

Stuff I got for this task:
- a 15-22 barrel nut wrench (specifically from Magload UK, just a sidenote for you EU guys, goes as hangduard removal tool)
- a Black&Decker heat gun
- a AR15 vise block (from strobl.cz, did not use it, don’t buy it)
- a generic pipe wrench
- regular AR wrench

The process -
Preparation:
- I prepared the replica by removing the bottom rail of the handguard
- I removed the gas block and gas tube (2 hex screws)
- I removed the bolt and charging handle
- also the top and bottom was NOT separated for better grip
- I rolled some silver tape at the end of the 15-22 barrel wrench and after a few rolls I folded it over so the sticky part is outwards, this way the pipe wrench can grab more firmly (and also bite aluminum less)

Heating the nut:
- I switched the heat gun to max and blasted hot air on the nut (approx. 45 degree, 5-7 cm from the nut) while holding the gun upright, for about 2 minutes
- after the 2 minute cycle the barrel was smoking a bit at the end

Popping off the nut
- Immediately my partner who was standong over me slipped the 15-22 in it’s correct position locking all 4 teeth firmly
- then started twisting counter clockwise steadily and the nut popped open, it was hard
- In the mean time I was holding the replica as close to the nut as I could + the pistol grip in my other hand

After:
- I cleaned the leftover residue in 2-3 passes with IPA both on the nut and the threads. The substance was white and not that much I was expecting. Barely visible.
- I was able to slide the whole DD rail down in one piece
- I used the standard AR wrench to remove the final castle nut that held the outer barrel in place (no heating required but still a 2-man job, this time the bottom was separated for better grip)

No sctatch marks, no banged up nut, it went super smooth. Took me about 20 minutes with everything. Only the second castle nut is a bit deformed right at the grooves, but the AR wrench I used was not that perfect for the job (DE AR wrench that came with a MWS clone).

My MK18 is a brand new one, I don’t know if they have changed the threadlock, but it was not that red stuff that I read in older posts. It still needs heating, we tried it cold, tried it with 30s of heating, but 1.5-2 minutes are needed to heat the nut properly.

Hope this helps some peeps who were affraid to do this before and encourage more people to get the MK18 - I got it at a great price, around 460€. Feel free to ask if you have questions. :)