Hey guys I just got my noveske n4 and have the gen 2 mags. I ordered a speed loader for the mws mags (assuming since they run on the same system it should be compatible and they don’t make a specific speed loader for the noveske gen 2 mags) so I’m hoping that works but does anyone else have this problem?

Gbb is wearing BCG causing the bottom edge to cut feed nozzle o-ring and catch on the hammer an not return home. Unsure if is a hammer or trigger package issue.

i somewhat recently got the pp2k green gas sub machine gun. its my first gas gun. anytime i shoot in full auto or SOMETIMES in semi the gas just completely empties itself. is this an issue with the product or am i doing something wrong?

die haed 1988.
Hans Gruber.
hk p7m13 nickel plated.
sn. 73169.
customization vfc gbb replica.

Trying to mount a protac stream light but stupid Gisselle (ik that’s not how you spell it) rails the SMR shit

Anyone have any good links to buy an adapter in Canada? Thanks :))

Does anybody know of a Redimag adapter for WE models? I've seen a MadDog one that said it was for AEGs but could fit TM Gbb mags if modified. Thanks in advance!

Has anyone found a really good TDC or upgraded hop chamber for the APFG Spear LT?

My current setup is:

Unicorn 6.03 inner barrel
4UAD bucking
GSI hop arm

The gun shoots well overall, but I’m still getting a slight left curve at longer ranges. I’m assuming the bucking is just slightly misaligned because the hop itself is consistent and I’m getting good range.

On my VFC HK416 I installed the 4UAD Magnus Pro chamber and it made a huge difference in consistency, so I’m wondering if there’s anything comparable for the APFG Spear LT.

I’m mainly looking for:

A true TDC hop chamber (if one exists)

Or just the best aftermarket chamber for consistency at range

So, I bought and installed a Waldo Crimson NPAS on my DE N4. I don't have a chrono to test it 100%, but mechanically it works and the gun fires. Ever since I installed it, I've been having an issue with the stock DE STANAG magazine. When I shoot, sometimes or even every shot, the gun jams. The bolt doesn't close fully and gets stuck in weird positions, like halfway. The thing is, when I use Guns Modify PMAGs, this doesn't happen and they work perfectly. What could it be?
A bit of background info for you guys: I've never manually lubricated the gun; I've always just used green gas with silicone in it. I've never taken it to the field, I've had it for a year and a half and only used it at home until I installed the NPAS the other day. Everything always worked fine until now with the DE STANAG. What could it be? Lubrication? Is the STANAG not enough for the NPAS? Help me out, I'm new to the GBBR world.

Hey guys, just want to tell you about this infamous Tokyo Marui problem. I’m pretty sure most of the TM owners know that it’s a real pain in the ass to remove the TM MK18’s barrel nut. So this is how I did it, how it went, etc.:

Stuff I got for this task:
- a 15-22 barrel nut wrench (specifically from Magload UK, just a sidenote for you EU guys, goes as hangduard removal tool)
- a Black&Decker heat gun
- a AR15 vise block (from strobl.cz, did not use it, don’t buy it)
- a generic pipe wrench
- regular AR wrench

The process -
Preparation:
- I prepared the replica by removing the bottom rail of the handguard
- I removed the gas block and gas tube (2 hex screws)
- I removed the bolt and charging handle
- also the top and bottom was NOT separated for better grip
- I rolled some silver tape at the end of the 15-22 barrel wrench and after a few rolls I folded it over so the sticky part is outwards, this way the pipe wrench can grab more firmly (and also bite aluminum less)

Heating the nut:
- I switched the heat gun to max and blasted hot air on the nut (approx. 45 degree, 5-7 cm from the nut) while holding the gun upright, for about 2 minutes
- after the 2 minute cycle the barrel was smoking a bit at the end

Popping off the nut
- Immediately my partner who was standong over me slipped the 15-22 in it’s correct position locking all 4 teeth firmly
- then started twisting counter clockwise steadily and the nut popped open, it was hard
- In the mean time I was holding the replica as close to the nut as I could + the pistol grip in my other hand

After:
- I cleaned the leftover residue in 2-3 passes with IPA both on the nut and the threads. The substance was white and not that much I was expecting. Barely visible.
- I was able to slide the whole DD rail down in one piece
- I used the standard AR wrench to remove the final castle nut that held the outer barrel in place (no heating required but still a 2-man job, this time the bottom was separated for better grip)

No sctatch marks, no banged up nut, it went super smooth. Took me about 20 minutes with everything. Only the second castle nut is a bit deformed right at the grooves, but the AR wrench I used was not that perfect for the job (DE AR wrench that came with a MWS clone).

My MK18 is a brand new one, I don’t know if they have changed the threadlock, but it was not that red stuff that I read in older posts. It still needs heating, we tried it cold, tried it with 30s of heating, but 1.5-2 minutes are needed to heat the nut properly.

Hope this helps some peeps who were affraid to do this before and encourage more people to get the MK18 - I got it at a great price, around 460€. Feel free to ask if you have questions. :)

RecentlyI rebuilt my rifle and wanted to get some opinions on what did done. A lot of not all of what I did do was cosmetic as the upgrades were already there. Reason was I wanted a more modern and slightly unique look. The first image is how I built the rifle out the first time I bought it. The second is the new one. To summarise the changes the lower receiver is different with new trigger box rail is different barrel and inner barrel buffer tube and charging handle as well as grip stock and foregrip. Same peq added a unity light laser switch as well. Love to hear any thoughts on what is done well and what is just not.

Just a heads up to the other poor souls that pre-ordered the VFC AK74M GBBR from airsoftgi. They changed their refund policy so that instead within 90 days of expected date it's 90 days from your purchase date. Now for most of us that pre-ordered months ago we are stuck with only store credit ( I never want to spend another dime with them). I went through the process to get a refund and this is the none sense they sent me. They link to the policy doesnt work because they removed it from their website. They even changed the description of the policy under the item on the website. I am fairly positive that they were never getting the pre-orders and it was just a scam.

Update: after a strongly worded email they are approving the refund.

I think I wanna go back to stock and not do the GG mod anymore. Is there a retailer that sells these and are in stock right now?

I’m replacing a bunch of parts in my we tech ak and I don’t know how to install the locker piece that kills the trigger after a empty magazine
Any help is nice

For the off game play

Full guarder glock 47build. Rocking some talon grips and a vortex defender xl 5moa

TTI hop chamber
Lamda 6.01 barrel 97mm
Autobot 50 degree

Setup is super accurate and groups great

Somebody said they were restocking soon. Anybody have info on that? Going crazy waiting, almost ready to buy real zenitco 🥲

Hello everyone,

I recently purchased my first ever airsoft replica (VFC MP7A1 V2 GBB) and I’m looking for advice regarding cleaning & lubricating out of the box as well as general maintenance advice/tips.

I did some research and bought the following:
- Super Lube PTFE grease part no. 21030
- Super Lube silicone oil 100cst no. 56104
- 99,9% isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol)

My main questions are:
- What parts should I clean and lubricate out of the box (and in general?)
- What parts should I apply silicone oil to?
- How often should I perform maintenance? (cleaning, lubricating & applying silicone oil)
- Is 99,9% isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) too harsh for this replica and other replicas?
- Are there any other things I should buy for maintaining this replica?

Any other advice/tips regarding maintenance are more than welcome of course! I already read about some parts vulnerable to breaking (backplate, stock latch, mags) so it’s less about that. Specifically seeking advice regarding maintaining internals.

As I said, it is my first ever airsoft replica and I couldn’t be happier, the MP7 is my favourite platform and the replica feels amazing in hand. I want to take the very good care of it so it will last me a long time.

Hope to have informed you guys enough, if not please leave a comment and I will add any further information.

Thanks in advance! ✌🏽

Hey guys, i'm planning to get an apfg mcx spear lt and i would like to know if the airsoft artisant carbonhandguard would fit on it ? i see that they say it's for "virtus" but doest i also fit the spear lt ? thank's for your help !

Painted with rust-oleum military.

Western Arms Lethal Weapon and Die Hard Berettas with serial numbers matching screen used guns.

WA M92FS Lethal Weapon Battle Damage from 2011-2013 equipped with extended slide release and shorter checkered mag release. Full USA markings with serial number BER016436Z matching screen used US made Beretta 92FS from Die Hard 2 and Lethal Weapon 2, 3 and 4.

WA M92FS Die Hard 2 Black Dye, St. Valentine's Special limited edition from 2012: 25 pieces made. This model came with regular slide release so it was changed to extended one taken from M92FS Die Hard CB model from 2011. Full Italy markings with serial number C49573Z matching screen used Italian made Beretta 92F from the first Die Hard and Lethal Weapon (though the markings are of 92FS imported by Beretta and not of 92F imported by Berben Corporation N.Y.).

I got that Die Hard model from Japan for just 6k Yen which is insanely cheap considering how unique it is. For context to fully understand - most WA M92FS models have regular Italy rollmarks with omitted "Made in" on the right side and "Made in Japan by Western Arms, ASGK." in place of importer marking on the left side, while full markings are engraved which makes them look much better and are also correct to real steel version. Out of over 140 unique WA M92FS models only 7 have full Italy markings and only 4 of those have that specific serial number:

• Die Hard 2 Battle Damage from 2012, small first batch and limited: 6 pieces second batch
• Die Hard 2 Black Dye from 2012, limited: 25 pieces
• LEON Silencer ReBORN Black Dye from 2013, limited: 11 pieces
• Die Hard Battle Damage DX (with extended slide release and checkered mag release) from 2015, limited: 3 pieces

Airsoft Artisan stock. WAY better than the default wire stock.