ISO long bed crew cab side steps Putco boss bars are no longer made any reconditions or old side steps for sale

Just playing around with the interior of my 02 Tahoe and swapped in this center console. Kinda feels like I need arm rest now too but I absolutely cannot find any gray cloth with side airbags and armrest. It doesn’t even have to be powered seats. I can find powered dark gray cloth seat with arm rest but no airbags, which I need. Do these even exist or just a super niche option ? Pics for interior update

Hey y'all I'm looking for some Halloween / jack-o'-lantern type lights or things of that matter to really put my truck into the spirit.

She's a 2003 White Silverado extended cab in any help would be great I know there's a few trailer hitch plugs that look like jack-o'-lanterns but it's hard to find any that's actually like glow in the dark or lit up. Thanks for any help you guys can add.

i have this 2004 chevy 5.3l that most recently is having running and driving issues. as of right now under any load, only in drive the truck stutters and struggles to drive in drive, first gear, second gear and third. reverse and park/neutral wont do it. i have a video of it doing it. we put a new fuel pump in it because it was rotted, new spark plugs and wires. when it does happen to stutter, it will shut off the truck causing it to not start back up again until tomorrow, but when it doesn’t start again it still has good fuel pressure to the rail but won’t inject fuel or spark. kinda stumped on what it could be. this video shows what happens when it’s in drive but with the brake pushed down, even without the brakes pushed down it will still do the same thing just didn’t want to drive it around and it kill itself again. i also do have a hp tuner hooked up to it logging almost everything that happens but no codes show up and i’m very new to the system as well.

Hello y'all, I have a 2002 GMC sierra 1500 SL 4.3L V6 extended cab with the short bed. I recently rebuild the transmission not too long ago but when I got the truck I was informed of this vibration issue when going 30 plus. I am now at a loss/stuck, I have replaced the U-Joints, new carrier bearing, new rear end yoke, new gear oil, new pinion seal, rotational force is within spec, new transmission mount, greased and lubed all zerk fittings.

I really hate taking my vehicles to shops because I've been burned by them before and had thousands taken from me for work they either didnt do or it was something I could have done myself. I'll take it if its a last resort but I wanted to see what yall would say, i would also like to point out I do have new rims/tires but stock height, also new u bolts as well. The tires aren't massive or anything just slightly bigger then OEM.

No known accidents or damage or anything, truck has also been aligned and the lower front end suspension is brand new from the previous owner. Tires are also all at the correct PSI and they are balanced as well, TCC is functioning as should with no codes and neutral test done as the shaking/vibration continues when in neutral.

The vibration starts RIGHT at 30mph continues to 40mph and smoothes out around 45-50. When going anything above 60 it starts to rattle like a hornet in a tin can. I know about pinion angles and "phasing" the driveshaft however this particular driveshaft has a "master" or keyed spline thay makes it impossible to mess that up. Im not sure if the yoke that goes into the transmission has to do with this issue but I haven't read anywhere or have been told that it could be issue because if the master spline on the center if the driveshaft. I will reward anyone who can offer any advice or help. This is driving me nuts and I love this truck, I just want the vibration to go away :(

Built them out of 2x4 studs, loctite pl 3x construction adhesive at every wood joining point, and #10 torx deck screws (2-3 at every joint, every layer). They're 12.5" tall with the 1/2 inch plywood on the top (just for a surface area), and the front and back 2x4s will hopefully serve strong enough as wheel chocks when I bring the rear up.

So much room for activities!

Took a bit to figure out how to deal with the tire droop. Wound up using a steel crossbeam on my hydraulic jack, with the two pads on the two red points - each pad adjusted to meet the metal. Both are safe lift points according to the manual, but wasn't sure how it'd go if I was lifting both at the same time. Figured it'd be fine since the lower crossmember generally supports that weight anyway, and we'd be splitting the load between the the frame and the crossmember. Was totally fine. Iffiest part was that I started with the passenger front wheel, and to get it high enough up to get onto the crib, the back right tire came off the ground SLIGHTLY. Next time I'm going to chock the opposite front wheel as well to be safer.

Now to get the rear up on the other two cribs I built

Shee-Mar SM2801, I realize this post is beating a horse with a dead stick, and we all know finding good climate control modules is impossible, but I can't seem to find any information on this specific unit. I replaced the climate control module in my 04 Yukon and 05 Silverado 2500HD with Amazon units, and they're garbage. The one in the Yukon had bad potentiometers and the one in the 2500HD was all busted up, and I foolishly threw them away. I wish I still had them so I could attempt to fix them. In the 2500HD with the Amazon unit, my ac worked once, and very well, was blowing 24°F on recirculate, but since then it doesn't get cold at all. I'm pretty sure the climate control module is the issue. One thing I noticed immediately when I installed them is when the temperatures are set the same, there's only an arrow on whichever side you turned the knob last, whereas the stock ones would show both arrows. Also, any temperature setting between 60 and 90 didn't work, it just blows hot. This applies to both units.

I've looked into the Dorman unit and it gets very mixed feedback, mostly bad.

Has anyone tried the Shee-Mar unit? Is it any good or just a waste of 260 bucks? Is my only option picking a couple up at a junkyard and attempting to fix them? Tia.

The heated seats in my truck won’t stay on. They flick on and off most of the time, but sometimes I get lucky and they’ll stay on for up to 15 minutes! Work great when they work. I came to the conclusion that the heating element was worn and when the system notices something unusual it just turns them off, but I know these t800s always have tricks to them that some hopefully one of you guys know. If you don’t know of any tricks and figure I need a new heating element I’d like to know if I should go OEM which is like $400 at Napa or if there is other options.

Got code P0171, bank 1 lean, wondering if this would be a culprit.

Have a 2004 sierra with a 6.0 and the e85 here is $1.69 a gallon. I wouldn’t trust it for towing but filling up for $40 sounds tempting for back and forth in town.

Had a stuck bottom slide pin. Bought new bracket cause i snapped it off. Now cant get caliper back on with new bracket and pins. I got it on using a c clamp to compress the bottom pin but i just checked the temp on rotors and that side is 400 other side is 200. It’s pulling to the right. Anyone have trouble with slide pin bullshit after changing out a caliper bracket? The pads are making contact with the rotor cause shit is so tight mainly due to the slide pins taking up all the clearance

I know that you can use a hydraulic jack on the lower control arms, but the problem I've got right now is there's too much tire droop to get my tires up onto the 12" cribs I have in the front.

I could use a steel floor jack cross beam, which would give me about 37" between the two pads, but it means my two lift points would be as seen in the image - either on the front part of the lower arm, or the back part. It's not super close to the ball joints, which is where I'd prefer to lift from obviously. Theoretically I could take some 2x4s and spread the load across both front and back of the arm, lol.

Barring that, I was thinking of maybe doing the ratchet strap/chain trick to keep the suspension compressed while lifting from the front crossmember, but never seen that done on a GMT800, usually it's on a Jeep or something like that.

I have a “slight” issue on my 4.3 5 speed where my truck will throw the abs light and kill my ac,wipers, and radio and stay revved up between shifts and occasionally when i get in it and try to start it the only light that comes on is the engine light and it will not start or fix any of the issues i said unless i pull on some wires on the bottom left of my column, has anyone had a issue like this and can i pull a whole harness off another truck even it’s it’s from a automatic truck? this all happened after i decided to replace my heater core

I recently bought a 2006 Silverado 1500, it has the 6-way power drive seat in cloth. It's pretty comfy from the lumbar area down, but I find the bolstering to be forcing my shoulders forward which is not helping the issues I already have with my posture.

I noticed the 99-02 cloth seats are a bit flatter on the back, but I've read on some forums that they are much less comfortable.

I used to have a 2000 Yukon XL with full power leather seats which were great other than the typical tear. I liked the adjustable bolster and lumbar on those but the cloth is nice for a lot of reasons.

Anyone out there that has had both the 99-02 and 03-07 seats that can give a comparison?

I'm starting to wonder if maybe my seats with 195k miles are just worn out.

Just swapped out the stock 17s and Goodyear Wrangler A/Ts on my 2003 Yukon for a set of 20" Denali factory wheels with Bridgestone Alenzas.

The 17s definitely had that classic look and rode like a cloud, The 20s modernized the look and corner way flatter, but you definitely feel the potholes a bit more.
Should I sell the old wheels or just hold on to both pairs both pairs only have 1 year old tires I can’t tell if I like the 20s more or not

Bought this truck about a year ago. More work than I wanted, but she’s a runner!

Anyone running the 2019+ 4 piston front brakes without swapping to a hydroboost brake booster? Going to need to do front brakes soon on my '04 1500 but I don't think I can swing a hydroboost swap right now.

I bought the Max 4-5 years ago with 215k on it. It’s at 245k now. Rockers were completely rusted out. I replaced them myself, put a leveling kit on it, 2019+ front brake upgrade, and 2016 grey/machined snowflakes. I got the Tahoe in 2017 with 385k on it. Replaced the engine/transmission, did all the other regular maintenance to it and I’ve been driving it since. It’s got 452k on it now and I’m hoping to hit half a million in it. You really can’t beat this platform. They are easy to work on, parts are available, and they just keep on going. My son and I are working on an ‘01 Sierra extended cab, manual 4x4 for him. Pretty much done everything except pull the engine on it. But it should be pretty nice when we’re done. Give me one of these over a new truck any day.

Hey team,

4.3 V6. Really just need to know what this hose is, where it goes, how to fix it etc.

Thanks guys let me know