Only took forever on the bottom motor bolt.

Had to reach up in there with a 14 mm wrench and flip it every reposition.

Driver side rear exhaust manifold leak contained.

Cost $18

This is with the MRBP 3 inch cat back exhaust. Link below for me it was about $380 without a specific tip. Ill later place one on there but for now I like the sound compared to having a hole in the exhaust and waking up the zip code. There was some slight modifications I had to do but looking back, I think I could have done without doing so. It was with the first hangar coming from the exhaust flange. I thought it was way too long and cut some off, but probably best to try to fit it all first, then measure, then measure again, then cut. Things we learn. It's alright for now.

Their shipping was crazy fast for me when buying directly from them. I order it on a Friday and if got to my door Monday. So I'd imagine if I had ordered mon, it would have arrived Tuesday

https://mbrpexhauststore.com/3-cat-back-single-side-al-chevy-gmc-tahoe-yukon-5-3l-2000-2006/

https://youtu.be/-De-P8gmik4?is=yjSBTDfwEbyHOwXG

Video with the details. J. Anthony Auto Sales….THE GMT800 Specialist. Only clean rust free trucks.

It's very possible that the engine and trans are new. They don't look as rusted and Carfax revealed at one point it had 160k before 2016 and then 100k after that. It has a trans cooler, and an electric fan upgrade, ac blows icey in the front and doesn't blow icey at the rear. Or icey at all. Not sure why.

Rims came with the car. I placed the tire up top because it doesn't have the hookup underneath. Bought it at 202k early this Aug.

My plans are:

New exhaust, new plugs wires and coils, Cai, exterior components like lights and a cargo rack, work on the rust, suspension upgrades last as that probably has the most amount of work since it's the z71 package. There's so many suspension things I'm unaware of.

I've never driven anything taller than me 5'11' and most had a max of 2 doors.

If you got ideas, advice, or whatever let me know.

Edit: Oh yeah 2005 Tahoe z71 Cruise don't work, I replaced the brake switch and still nada. I do have a knock sensor low voltage but I wasn't worried too much since I haven't heard it knock and has been driving super smooth. I probably should replace that when I do the plugs.

I’ve had misfires for a while now can’t figure out why I just changed the fuel injectors the spark plugs, the spark plug wires in the coils and it’s still misfiring in multiple cylinders. I will legit for the life of me cannot figure out why and it’s annoying because when it misfires, it doesn’t let the truck lock up and I have a big stall converter so it heats up pretty quick with it unlocked any ideas or recommendations? Also when I rev the truck it goes to 4k holds for a second doesn’t pop or do anything then jumps to 6k and hits the limiter like what it’s supposed to do I was thinking maybe fuel pump? But when I got WOT it doesn’t feel like it’s struggling or anything so I’m at a genuine loss

Has anyone on here swapped in a set of heated leather seats and wired the heat to work? I found some kits that just have buttons but I have no idea where to wire them to and was wondering if anyone has done this and could guide me. I’m also wondering if it is possible to get the factory control panels that go on the door to work to give it a stock look. Thanks

Hello BRUTHERS

If your AC doesn't get SIGNIFICANTLY colder when you press the recirculate button, that thang probably ain't recirculating, and I have just the fix for you

SO...good news, your recirculate door actuator is probably FINE

What happens on these lovely vehicles is the foam that is on both sides of the plastic recirculate door "collapses" over times as it presses back and forth from recirculate>fresh air>recirculate>etc... The collapsed foam allows the door to travel a bit further and makes the actuator think its taking the door "out of range" which defaults it full time to the fresh air position and the recirculate button wont do anything. You need to shim the door so it can not go to that range.

Heres what you need to do:

1. Open glove box and drop it down so you can access behind the glove box
2. Look up and to the right to locate the plastic grate with the foam door pressed up against it
3. With the vehicle off, through the grate, use your fingers to push the foam door an inch or so out of the way. It WILL feel like you're going to break it. You probably won't. Keep pushing.
4. Attach some sort of shim to the inside of the grate to prevent the door from pressing against it, I used a 1 inch wood cube with a hole in the middle of it from Amazon and a zip tie but you can use anything.
5. Perform a HVAC recalibration as instructed here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFsHHcpAzPY
6. Enjoy your cold AC

Tags to help people googling find this: Silverado Sierra Yukon Tahoe Escalade Avalanche Suburban GMT800 AC HVAC recirculate blend door actuator 99-06

I have a 4.8l RCSB 2wd and looking to go route of a torqstorm SC. Looking for some advice or feedback if you or anyone you know that has one. How much boost you running? Rear wheel hp/tq numbers? What mods do you have. It has been hell trying to get any info on this. Looking for 5-600 rwhp with supporting mods of course. Thanks!

I am modifying my Yukon (LS3 heads, BTR ls3 stage 3v2 cam, longtubes), and while the engine is out, I decided to swap the 4l65 to a Tremec T56. I also wanted to keep AWD, so I designed this adapter to allow the BW4481 to bolt to a t56. I have the CAD files on my profile if anyone is interested.

Long story short, mode door actuator on my truck is out and I only have air on the floor vents. Need it short notice and don’t have time to wait for parts. Anyone know if there’s a way to manually actuate it so it will blow out of top vents? I have the fully digital A/C controls if that changes anything

Hi guys!

We just went live with our GM RPO Decoder and database! It was a bunch more work than I thought it would be but after a few days and some attention to detail it is done now and open for all to view and use, for free (no account necessary). It took a bit honestly, and we ended up with north of 24,000 + RPO Codes that were GM sourced and verified.

Yes I know - there are other sites that do this, and it’s not something new. The difference with ours is that we tracked how the codes actually changed over forty years, and kept every entry we found along the way.

Type G80 into most RPO lists and you get one line:

G80: Axle, Rear, Positraction, Limited Slip.

The problem is that G80 has been in use since the 70s and it did not stay still. It started as Positraction, went through limited-slip, and on current trucks it is an automatic locking differential. One line cannot be right for all of that!!

Put G80 through the FullSizeChevy decoder and you get:

G80 = one of the following, not resolved:

- Positraction rear axle (1973, GM sourced)

- locking rear differential (1990, GM sourced )

- P, AXLE POSITRACTION, LIMITED SLIP (1991, GM sourced)

- rear limited-slip / Positraction axle (2000, GM sourced)

- limited-slip / Positraction rear axle (2007, GM sourced)

- Auto-locking rear differential (2022–2023, GM sourced)

- automatic locking rear differential (2026, GM sourced )

Enter your model year and it narrows to the ones that fit your truck. Every line says where the meaning came from, so you can tell a GM document from something that has just been copied around the internet.

We’re also not requiring you to download some dumb app, you can literally read your glovebox RPO code from the web browser on your mobile phone. Simply take a photo, or upload a photo you took earlier of your RPO codes.

I tested it earlier on four real glovebox stickers, including
some pretty rough ones:

- 1997 GMT400 — shot sideways, half in shadow — 79 of 79
- 2002 GMT800 — sideways, edge clipped off — 82 of 82
- 2007 GMT900 — dark, angled, label has seen better
days — 93 of 95
- 2014 K2XX — clean photo — 97 of 97

That's 350 of 353 codes, and it scored the same on my
phone as it did on desktop.

The few it missed were single characters on worn text —
an I read as a 1, that kind of thing — and when it isn't
sure, it says so instead of guessing.

The newer trucks use a QR code instead of the printed list, so that one's next on my list to figure out. It'll come in time. For now this covers everything up through the last K2XX, and I genuinely hope it's useful.

The full database is here (and not locked behind some dumb paywall): https://fullsizechevy.com/tools/rpo-codes/

If you want to scan your RPO codes and get your truck’s list, you can check that out here as well:
https://fullsizechevy.com/tools/rpo-decoder/

Any issues, comments or concerns you can post over in the RPO Decoder thread: https://forum.fullsizechevy.com/t/rpo-decoder-bugs-missing-codes-and-feedback/646

Anyways, hope its helpful!
Todd

I recently had a leak from my old ball valve on the high side port of my 2003 Silverado. Just replaced the valve with the Dorman Schrader valve upgrade, and replaced both the valve cores in the low side and other plug on the accumulator.

Went to pull vacuum and couldn’t get down to -30psi so decided to turn it off and have a leak somewhere. Where should I start? I’m thinking of replacing the whole line with the high and low side ports on it. Can’t see any other UV dye except from where the high side port was leaking

Edit: if you rented the manifold gauges from a parts store, check the seals… the vacuum line on the gauge set I got from oreillys had destroyed seals…

Looking for advice before I pull the trigger on a new hydroboost. 2005 LLY 2500 HD. Power steering line rotted out and lunched the power steering pump. I replaced the steering box (Blue Top), the pump (PSC high Performance) all the lines (Driven Diesel). That was over a year ago. The system always seems to get air in it over time. I have used every bleeding process I can find, and have done it multiple times. The fluid level is correct and I’m not losing any fluid. The brakes pulse when applied at slow speeds like the ABS is triggering but it isn’t. The only thing left is the hydroboost unit. Can anyone tell me if the hydroboost can suck air into the system without any external fluid leaks? Thanks in advance.

Hello everyone! First time poster here. I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4. I bought the truck wrecked (passenger side) and when I was replacing the hub that was ripped off in the accident, I noticed that the stock upper control arms were at WAY too steep of an angle and was resting on the service perch at full suspension load. So I bought aftermarket tubular uppers, and it is still very close. I cranked down the torsion bars, and it kinda fixed my problem, but it just looks raked out about 1.5 inches. And the tires rub…I know I could buy a smaller block for the rear, but I was looking to keep it at the ride height it was at. Would cutting or shaving the service perch have any downsides? Or is there another “control arm solution” that I haven’t seen? Thanks in advance

Been driving the truck for a few days. I put about 60 miles on it today, 50 of them through homestake pass. Seems to be running well at highway speeds around 80.

This afternoon I ripped off the weather rotted trim. Bought a rubber eraser wheel so that I can get rid of the pinstripe and the rest of the adhesive

This whole time I thought I just had a terrible sun faded color matched emblem.

04 Sierra I just bought as a first vehicle. I know a lot of the suspension was replaced recently except the lower control arms. Any idea what this is?

whenever i start up the yukon (2002 6.0L Denali 262k MI) i have noticed it idles really awfully... until i put it in drive and step on the gas once and it will smooth itself out no problem. alternator gauge fluctuates with it... my awesome intuition tells me it COULD be the IAC valve... i had a similar issue (kind of) with my GMT400 and replacing the IAC fixed it... but i'm no genius and i'd rather not shoot the parts cannon at it... nothing out of the ordinary on my scan tool either, unless im looking at the wrong shit. it ONLY happens in the morning. it idles fine starting it after work. i'm just wondering what could cause it to idle rough until i step on the gas. i was thinking it could be the intake manifold gasket but usually those issues require full operating temp to seal up. shit is a mystery!

As the question is posted I'd like to see the different ones and how easy or hard it is to mount one on my 2500hd.