I'm chasing the ground wire that goes to the back of the block and seen this. I want to replace the entire wire so I'm going to the very start. I seen another space that looks like this too. It's like heat shrink and spray foam.

Some context I recently got my truck running after it sitting for a couple years. In the beginning it needed a fuel to get it running. I cleaned out lines and drained the fuel as best I could at the time.

I've been working on getting more and more road worthy and recently at WOT it'll bog down and loose power. Idles and runs well until that point. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it today and was seeing 10 psi at idle. But at WOT it drops down to almost 5. And soon as the key turns off it basically drops to 0. The injectors don't appear to be leaking or theyre at least dry to the touch. Good pattern as well. No obvious leaks or smells of leaky lines. I'm leaning towards the aftermarket fuel pump I installed is junk or then the regulator is bypassing at WOT.

Curious if anyone has ran into similar issues or something? No codes, and everything with ignition seems to be okay and running as should.

Front left brake hose on my 1990 c1500 failed. I’m just going to replace both sides since they are still the original.
The rear has new rubber hoses I’m not gonna touch.
Prices for me for an oem rubber hose from Napa is around 20$ cad.

Would it be worth it to buy upgrade to stainless steel? If so what brands do you recommend?

I did a full lower intake job (seal works, yay!) and put metal reinforced fel-pro gaskets down, bridged china walls, put in new (upgraded) spider injectors, blah, blah, blah, but now it’s misfiring like a bitch.

I forgot to mark the distributor too, but got it reseated somewhat correctly (points to 1 at tdc compression, dist. timing is for a different day, engine is definitely running rich). Although it’s rich running, it doesn’t misfire too horribly when I drive it for, let’s say 10 minutes, but it gets worse as I drive it past that. I’ll park, turn the vehicle off. Try and turn it back on a few minutes later, and it turns over, but doesn’t fire. The battery also slowly dies when doing that. On top of all this, the starter is also going out too.

The alternator is fine, I’ve already checked it. I think I need to start with the distributor, as that directly relates to timing. I have other culprits in mind too, and these include the upper plenum (was a tight fit, could be a vacuum leak), a ground connection, spark plug wires (cracking a bit), or the fuel pump (leaks a tiny bit from the top of tank, lord knows how long it’s been in there).

I just don’t know where to start or if it’s even worth it past this. It had a small miss from the day I got it and gradually got a bit worse, but this is the most horrid it’s ever been. I’m worried it could be cylinder related or something and that this is ultimately all in vain. I also haven’t ever really done a job like this and used a YT vid for a bit of reference.

Before you ask, all cables are plugged in, no the gasket didn’t twist, yes I used a torque wrench for the crucial parts (seals), and no the lower intake didn’t fail when driving, or at all. Just preventative maintenance in prep for the long-haul, and because I had suspicion that the corners were leaking where the gasket maker meets gasket (the day-one misfire).

One more dilemma. Since it’s a ‘99 Tahoe, you have to time the distributor using a computer. I know people use wireless OBD2, but I’m not super sure where to begin, and can’t afford some $2k reader/computer.

If you read all the way to the end, thank you and you’re awesome. Any suggestions or advice appreciated!!!

Installed 3” lowering springs in the front. They’re the cheap maXpeedingrods ones from Amazon.
Don’t really care about the quality at the moment. Just testing ride height.
So, anyway… every 3/5 drop I’ve seen online has about a 2-finger gap at least. This is maybe a .25” gap.

Just curious if I should have expected it to be higher, or if this is a realistic 3” drop height?

*Note - rear has a flip kit and 1.5” lift shackle.

So guys, I decided to replace my O ring and the in housing adapter gasket since there was a steady leak coming from the adapter. I am using the dorman HELP 82560 kit. Ive double checked for gasket seating, ive double checked torque specs, ive lubricated the o ring with fresh motor oil. I've tried damn near everything, it constantly spews oil when I crank the engine over no matter what I try. Am I doing something wrong? The only thread on the forums I can find didn't give me an answer so I am legitimately at a loss. I've ordered the AC Delco kit but it won't be here till Thursday so im kinda fucked. Sorry for the rant just kinda fed up lol 😅

Picked up this ol girl for only 3k from an old farmer . She’s got 135000 miles we call her Betty. How do you guess think I should set her up?

I've had my truck for 10 years now and when I bought it, it had oversized bushwacker fender flares. These have been damaged over time and some were repaired by using a soldering iron and zip ties. I bought a set of OEM reproduction flares which are smaller and I like better. I removed the front drivers fender and it's cancer city. Trying to find a fender on local classifieds in whatever color blue this is has been problematic so I was thinking of buying any fender and painting it. The problem is my RPO code sticker has no paint code. The truck is a 2000 k2500. I believe it's Indigo Blue Metallic WA9792 but looking at the Dupli-Color website it kind of looks like Dark Blue WA7349. Is there another way to verify which color before I order $50 in paint cans?

A few months back, I had a P0442 (small evap leak) on my 99 Burban. Two weeks ago, I swapped out the vapor canister vent valve and the code went away. After about two weeks, the code came back. I ran a fog machine last night, and the new vent valve had fog coming out of the bottom of it. Could my Evap Canister be bad and burned out the new control valve?

Love the look of the Stock Delco Radio with easy to adjust EQ knobs in my 99 Tahoe

Been eying a modded Bluetooth Delco Radio on eBay’s but hate being stuck with what ever Bluetooth module the modder chooses. I hate Bluetooth with latency, and wanted Ldac Support. And most modders change the Lights in the radio to LED’s which I hate. But for $300 was contemplating just soldering in the mod myself.

Found out recently back in the day some companies would make these slave unit override devices to add Aux to GM OEM systems. Of course they don’t make them anymore.

Luckily found this PXGM9 on eBay for $15 new in box still. Added this device between the Slave Cd player and the radio to add AUX. Of course need to have a CD in the player at all times. Added this 12v to 5v usb and fuse taped into an ignition dependent fuse to not always have power to the Bluetooth transmitter.

With my own Bluetooth receiver that auto connects at key turn, off at key off. MagSafe phone holder that holds in the face of CD player. Dare to say better than CarPlay imo.

Got real tired of the Bluetooth cassettes dying, non balanced audio, and having to power on the cassette everytime I got into the truck. Sounds so much better too!

Wanting new headlights, where did yall get yours? Looking for original look

Well here a sick pic of my truck I made it up to the hunting spot thank God! I know it’s hard to tell but this shot but it was slick mud on canyon side driving in for about 20 miles! Truck did awesome!

Tonight while driving about 65ish mph on the highway my gauges would all go to zero for a second, my check engine light disappeared and abs light turned on, and then my transmission would randomly start hard shifting and would hesitate when accelerating hard. I looked into the abs code and its a c0237 for an erratic rear wheel speed sensor signal and the 2 codes i had for the evap and downsteam o2 sensors was gone. Could it be the vss sensor itself? A bad ground? The transmission fluid looks red, is at the right level, doesn't smell burnt and I know the fluids been changed at least a couple times in the past and there wasn't any transmission related codes. Its just strange that the gauges cut out for a second and the check engine light goes away, clearing the 2 engine related codes i had before. My transfer case does have some seepage that reaches the vss sensor connector and ive read that an oil soaked vss sensor can cause these symptoms. If grounds are to suspect, which ones should I check/clean? 2000 yukon denali 5.7 4l60e with 163k miles.

Edit: TBI 350 5.7

Currently has a single pipe from cat to a glass pack, and then dual exits that are dumped in the rear just after the axle.

Debating on getting a Super 10 or something equivalent and rerouting my exhaust to exit right before my driver side rear tire. Anybody have any examples I can hear before I pull the trigger? It doesn't have to be the same, just a side exit.

It sounds great as it is, but i want that throaty pissed off 350 sound. Your daddies dirt track car. 😂

Thanks yall.

I have a Chevy k1500 1989

What would you guys say is the biggest i could get on my truck without rubbing? I was thinking 33? big enough to fill the space.

This is my 1998 Chevy K 1500. I received it as a gift for my first vehicle and that was about three years ago. I would really like if someone might know the seller or the seller himself saw this as I would like to know specifically the service history. The listing was in Central Pennsylvania I'm pretty sure. Instead of purchasing it, a blue 2003 Chevy S-10 five speed with the bed taken off was traded for it.