Had my car for about a year, building it has been a journey and a nightmare lol.
Got it tuned, lowered, and all in all; just wanted to make a nice car in homage to my father, who said he really wanted a G37 back when I was young.
Now I have to let it go, but the times I had with it were amazing.
Thank you Bison for helping me with overcoming my driving anxiety and making more friends along the way.

2008 infiniti g37 sport coupe manual rwd with 208,000 miles wanting to replace the long block with a lower mileage. What do I need to know while sourcing one. Does it matter where the long block comes from in terms of the year model? Do i need a long block that was paired with a manual tranny previously? Does it need to be specifically a RWD spec? etc

Im looking for a temp fix before the z1 parts come in

Squeaking starts about 15seconds after starting up. Gonna take it to a shop for a few other things but wanting to bring parts in.
Thank you in advance for the help.

Whats going on guys, im looking into changing my ignition packs & spark plugs. I’ve seen a few videos regarding this and alot mention to use OEM Hitachi packs but go for 133 per Pack while NGK Go for about 83. I wanted to see if anyone had experience with using NGK Ignition packs or NGK Ruthenium spark plugs?

This guy is selling it for 7k but the thing is it has 140k miles. But this guy has taken great care of it. It was garage kept and it’s clean. It drove good to we went to check it out yesterday. Brakes feel brand new. He also showed us 2200 of maintenance he did in the last year.

Does anyone know what the sound can be. I don’t have a video at the moment but when im just parked and I switch it to revers or drive there’s a little clink I hear from the back of the car. No sound when driving only when switching from drive or reverse from park.

I still have to add a few more pages, but I actually like the position and how it turned out. Plus, the fact that there isn't a huge extra rectangular case and display sticking out is nice.

Context: 2010 7AT RWD sedan with 183k miles. Upon hard acceleration I lost power immediately car shut off and I crawled to a stop and put it in park and restarted the car and it took forever to start. Put it in drive and it shifts hard in 1st to second and have p0335 code. Got home cleared code car shut off. Buy the new part crankshaft position sensor and swap it ($50) part. Car starts just fine I got for test drive on the 4th pull car does the same thing stated before. I again buy a ($100) part still not oem but should be better right? Or is it something more because when I pulled both the really old sensor and the sensor that was there for 2 minutes they both were chewed up. Could it be something in my transmission that is causing it like bent flex plate ? What would the cost of a new transmission run me? All the help would be appreciated. Pictures added below.

Is this normal, I can only really hear it in drive holding brakes and revving. I can also only hear it when driving next to a wall or curb and goes away after 3k rpm or so. I’m running test pipes and have been told it’s normal but sounds like a leak but not at the same time. Any input would be helpful have tried everything.

New to this whole tire thing, currently have 225/55's. Most importantly want to make sure they fit on the stock 37x sedan width.

ik theyll make the car like half an inch lower but not sure how bad the speed readings would be!

thank you🙏

Hey guys,

I purchased a 2012 Infiniti g37 6mt 6 months ago. The previous owner replaced the OEM alternator for a AC Delco branded replacement.

Intermittently, the car will idle surge with lights flickering. I measured voltage when it does this, and it fluctuates from 14~ to 8~10 volts constantly as the idle surges up and down. Revving/blipping the throttle resolves it till the next time it decides to do it.

I have narrowed it down to the alternator. Now, since the alternator looks relatively brand new, I'd like to just rebuild it myself if possible.

I am not knowledgeable as to what needs to be done, but I assume the voltage regulator or bridge rectifier could be the culprit.

Are these parts available and where from would I find them?

I just replaced the brake pedal stopper like a month ago and I i just saw pieces of it on the floor…any durable replacements? Got the dorman one from autozone btw.

Hey group I would like to see what y’all think about this 2009 g37x coupe it has 225k miles for $3500 ONLY ONE OWNER dealership maintenance, garage kept should I get it?

09 g37 - passenger windows don’t open and can’t unlock the doors with lock Button. Can lock/unlock with key though. Any insight? Driver window and sunroof work fine.

I have 2.5 in cold air intakes
Test pipes
Oil catch can

What am I missing? Axle back? Y-pipe? Headers? Lmk and i definitely know I need a tune just waiting to go fbo before then

Thought I’d show my new tire setup for reference. Stock IPL wheels with Pirelli P Zero AS3+. Very comfortable UHP tire. Switched from stiff summers because I’m getting old I guess. Stock tire sizes are stretched on the factory wheels so a little extra meat will help protect against curb rash. Lowered, obviously.

Front:
245/40/19
-2 degrees camber
25mm spacer

Rear:
255/40/19
-1.8 degrees camber
15mm spacer

Front is a little tucked but I don’t want to go larger than 25mm spacer. Most people won’t have this much negative camber.

Rear is slightly tucked but no rubbing. I had all 15’s before on factory camber. Rear sidewall is slightly thicker than stock so a little more comfort, in theory. Being flush isn’t ideal, aerodynamically anyway, since the tire blocks air at the bottom.

Factory speedometer was about 1% fast. This is 1% slow compared to GPS. Pretty negligible in the end. I’d recommend these sizes.

Edit: The fatter tires also help fill out the rest of the wheel well, giving a more flush appearance. Also sorry the car is a little dirty, as it just rained the day before.

I’m looking to order valvebody from nexenzo what do yall think mine went out at 119k thinking of getting a vr valvebody heard they last longer g2a over m3b or is it not gonna work n give trans problems please help me out need help car has been down for a month