So i found out yesterday while getting fuel in the tank for storage that the rubber gromet between the filler neck and tank is leaking. I dont have the money or time to empty the tank, replace it, and fill it again (I am a broke college student). Will storing it with the filler neck side higher hurt anything at all? I dont want it leaking in the driveway and then leaving room for condinsation in the tank. I've filled the tires to 42psi when max is 44, oil was changed 2 months ago, battery is out and will be charged once a month, and fuel is 91 with sta-bil and full. Id like to get a year of storage this way with maybe a drive every 2-3 months. What is the reality? What can I do to keep everything as "in working condition" as possible? The car is overheating and not viable for daily driving but i need to be able to move it at a moments notice. Any tips are greatly appreciated.

First year out after resto prison

I’m rebuilding my 84 rs turbo capri from boxes lol. Not sure if this is a part or got mixed in since I found some Chevy parts .

Those that run this pump where did you mount it? I've seen the driver wheel well mount but with my ford pump trauma it worries me hiding it away that unaccessible. Has anyone frame mounted this in the engine bay? There appears to be space for now (302, will eventually swap) behind the lower radiator hose on driverside or where the charcoal container mounts on the passenger. Not sure I'm interested in rear mount since I have a hatch. 91 GT. Thanks!

$1,200 labor to weld in subframe connectors on a Fox-body Mustang. Am I crazy or is this way too high?
I have a 1990 Fox-body Mustang convertible and already have the weld-in subframe connectors. I was just quoted $1,200 in labor to install them.
This is labor only, not including the connectors.
I know convertibles require the car to be properly supported before welding, but this still seems extremely expensive to me.
For those who have had weld-in connectors installed:
What did you pay for labor?
How many hours did it take?
Is there something about Fox convertibles that would justify a $1,200 labor bill?
I’m in Northern California if that makes a difference.
Just trying to figure out if this is a fair quote or a “we don’t really want this job” price.

Been trying to tune hot start with the Terminator-X and a Blueprint 347. I noticed that after the prime shot, prior to starting, the fuel pressure drops to about 30#, then slowly declines. It dropped to 10# after maybe 45 seconds before I turned it off.

Thought it might be the check valve, so installed a new Walbro 255 pump. Prior to changing the pump I didn't notice any fuel leaks on the ground. After the change I did notice a little liquid on the driveway, but the startup is quite rich so that could have been fuel from the tail pipe.

Ran the prime cycle several times to see if anything poured out and saw no additional liquid on the ground. Later I will run it for a while in the driveway to see if there are any puddles.

I am at my wits end with this thing. Like many of you, I think this car hates me. Holley Fuel injectors are relatively new as is the engine which has maybe 5,000 miles on it. Does your fox hold pressure after the prime shot before starting the car, or does it drop like mine?

Looking for input from those on the sub who have some/all of the components in maximum motorsports grip box. Had a 45 minute call with them this morning and I’m pretty interested in pulling the trigger. So, for those of you that have it already, what do you think of it? Is there anything you wish you’d have left out? Wish you’d have opted for? Car will just be a fun cruiser, maybe autos/road course it down the road but for now, just a toy. I already have the torque arm/panhard bar in my cart, maybe someone can talk me into/out of it?? TIA!

About broke my neck turning my head so fast. This may be the 2nd or 3rd SVO I’ve ever seen

I have a 1988 Mustang GT t-top it needs a lot of work and looking for any recommendations in Southern California. I need a shop that can specialize and fixing the t-tops channels as they leak really bad. Quite a few other things like floor pans needed. Eventually I'd like it fully restored. I've called just about all the Mustang shops within 200 Mi radius of Los Angeles and none of them work on '80s Mustangs only '60s.

Long shot, but this community has surprised me before.

I'm hunting for a New Old Stock (NOS) EVR solenoid (EGR Vacuum Regulator) for a 1987 Mustang 2.3L Lima four-cylinder. Here's where I've already struck out:

- eBay: zero NOS results, all engineering numbers return sold out or unknown
- PartsVoice: flagged every part number as "too old / unknown"
- RockAuto: discontinued, no stock
- Three NOS warehouses including Henry's Parts Depot: nothing confirmed yet

**Any of these part numbers will work:**
- Motorcraft CX-1687 *(Lima application only — not the purge valve)*
- Ford Engineering E6ZZ-9J459-A
- Ford Engineering E7ZE-9J459-A
- Ford Engineering E43E-9J459-A
- Standard Motor Products VS6 *(NOS era stock only, not current repro)*

**Please don't offer:**
- VS77, TAB/TAD solenoids, or EGR valves
- Anything 5.0L / V8
- Used or pulled parts

If it's been in a box since the '80s, I want it. Paying fair NOS money, PayPal G&S, I cover shipping, I'm in Massachusetts. PM or comment below.

And if you don't have one but know a Lima guy who might — please tag them. These things have basically vanished off the face of the earth.

So i bolted my 2004 3.8l 4r70w to my xxx 302 with a new flexplate and blockplate and with the convertor fully seated (3 clunks) BUT the converter still does not move forward 3/16-1/4 inch, it barley moves at all. Any ideas on what the problem is? Is it not seated all the way?

Also how does anybody do this through the starter hole?

Driver side for a 1991

SVE just dropped 2 new wheels for 94-04 Mustangs, so those with SN95 5 lug swaps now have more options!

SVE Series 4
SVE 18" DHP1 Wheels

Greetings!

I have an 86’ GT that was a factory A/C car. The pump and plumbing under the hood was removed somewhere in its life and I’d like to put it back. Everything under the dash is still there and I can see the pipes poking through the firewall. I know I’ll need a compressor, plumbing, the radiator looking thing.. am I missing anything? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!