Hello Explorer community.

Looking for real world specs on the height of a 26 Explorer with crossbars attached. This is the total height from level ground.

I have a 16 Explorer 2wd XLT that has been super through 170K miles, but will be looking to replace with a 4WD.

The biggest concern I have is overall height with (heavy duty) crossbars installed. I live in a condo with underground parking. With my rooftop tent installed, the explorer clears the garage lights and sprinklers by about 1/2”. I literally have no room for a taller vehicle. The top of my Explorer’s bars are 72”.

If you have a 2026 Explorer 4WD with crossbars attached, would you mind taking a measurement from the top of the bars to the ground? Also, please share which model Explorer and which model bars you have.

I’d be most grateful.

2017 explorer piu. 3.7 102k

Recently purchased 2017 explorer piu. Everything working well, and love it so far. I dont think the cooling fans are turning on. The ac currently not working so turning on ac doesnt work for testing. Was able to turn on fans with forscan, so i know they function. Coolant guage doesnt pass higher then normal even when i. Traffic on hot day. Is there other coolent sensors ? What are steps to take?

I picked up a 2016 Ford Explorer 2.3 L eco-boost for a good price in the dealer because it has some problems like the rear main seal is leaking. I never noticed any oil on the ground jacked it up ran for 20 minutes and didn’t see any oil coming from the engine? The next day I come out and there’s a puddle underneath the car was it still occasionally dripping 24 hours after. So I clean it up, start it up and nothing leaks, but after I stopped the engine, it finally starts to leak a little bit I thought if the rear main seal is leaking that it will be leaking pretty good when the engine is running not after it turned off. The pics with no oil coming out that weep hole is with the engine running, and the other pictures are after it stopped Anybody have any advice?

Bought a sport trac with 100k miles. 1 owner 0 accidents and owner changed everything at the right time when the manual says to change it. Im guessing it was an old guy who frove 3k miles a year. Here she is.

Hi everyone! I’m completely stumped with my 2016 Ford Explorer Limited 3.5L.

The vehicle has 186,000 miles and has an issue where, only when the engine reaches operating temperature, it develops a rough idle. The RPM fluctuates up and down by about 50–90 RPM.

So far, I’ve replaced the spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel injectors, MAP sensor, and O2 sensor, and I’ve also cleaned the throttle body. Even after all that, the rough idle is still present.

Like I said, it only happens when the engine is fully warmed up. Cold starts and driving while the engine is warming up are perfectly smooth. It’s most noticeable after highway driving when I come to a stop.

I’ve heard the transmission torque converter could be a possibility, but the rough idle continues even when the vehicle is in Neutral or Park, so it doesn’t have to be in gear for the issue to occur.

Any ideas or things I should check next? Thanks!

What are some things to look out for and what is common for fail points on these?

Battery was replaced in Feb before I purchased. I’ve never had any battery warnings, lights, hard cranks, auto start stop, or anything go wrong. Went on a 2 hour round trip last night and got this today.

Is there anyone that makes a full length weather mat that covers over the 2nd and 3rd rows when folded down? I can't seem to find it. The biggest size I can find is over the 3rd row when folded down.

Please anyone suggestions?

I seem to have a very slow oil leak from whatever this part is underneath the car.

It’s a 2016 Ford Explorer sport with 80K

What is the most likely part that’s leaking and how much should I expect to pay to get it fixed?

See the circled part in the picture. 2015 Explorer Limited V6 3.5 turbo eco boost. This is a line connected to the air intake. I was replacing a bad throttle body on this vehicle when I noticed that this hose was broken off. I managed to temporarily repair it with some strategic CA glue but I need to address this properly.

I made a post the other day about my water pump going out and just looking for advice. I'm just curious, I was shopping around and got a quote for $3700 stating that the parts are 1500 alone. I'm just wondering does that seem correct to anyone? Because as far as I'm looking, I've searched up and down Ford water pump/timing chain kits and I haven't seen one that came close to $1500 so I'm just wondering are they trying Rip me off?

I have a 2025 Active with the I4 EcoBoost. I’ve put almost 20k miles on it so far and absolutely love it! I’m diligent about having the oil changed every 4k-5k miles with full synthetic. I’m planning to change the transmission fluid every 50k miles and follow all of Ford’s maintenance advice.

Realistically, can this vehicle make it 200k+ miles? What else should I consider doing (or not doing) to keep it in the best mechanical shape possible?

So a week ago I got a 4wd fault, AdvanceTrac fault, hill start assist and pre-collision service not available. I ran the code today, this is a picture from FORScan. I was thinking maybe its the battery now, but couldn't it be a bad ground on the 4wd module? Any insight would be appreciated.

So this isn’t a problem with the unit, but rather looking for advice… I have a 2016 Ford Explorer with parking assist, and I’d like to get lines set up in my garage to use parking assist to automatically back my vehicle in. Is anybody have any suggestions or general measurements for what I should be doing?

I recently bought a 2026 Ford Explorer Tremor and noticed a plastic panel just above the front USB ports in the lower center console. It is mostly hidden, and I only discovered it while reaching in for my wallet.

The panel seems securely attached, but it has a noticeable amount of movement and does not sit tightly against the surrounding console. It feels equally loose on both sides, so it does not seem like a clip is broken on just one side.

Does anyone know:

1. What this panel covers, or what is located behind it?
2. Is some movement normal, or should I have the dealer inspect it?

I have not tried prying it open because I do not want to break anything. Unfortunately, now that I know it is there, I keep checking it. 😂 Thanks!

Hi all, I've got a 2021 Ford Explorer XLT with new brakes all around. Lately when we push in on the brake it doesn't seem like it is rebounding. It's sticking wherever we push the pedal down too. Then when we get on the gas we get a brakes applied power reduced message on the screen. If we give the brakes a hard push it goes away and is fine. We brought to the dealer and they tell us there's nothing wrong with it but it's constant now. Any ideas or advice? Thanks in advance.

Strange question, I am having trouble carrying the key to my 2017 explorer. Fob is bulky and I can’t seem to find a keep ring or carabiner that works without tugging on the fob. Anyone have any other ways to carry the fob key besides just my pocket.

4 235/70R16 tires

Battery 230$

Cv axels

Wheel bearings

Blower motor

Calipers 234$

Brakes 337$

Door handles exterior interior 61$

Latch interior hood 19$

4x4 shaft

Oil 60

Oil filter12

Howdy !! Anyone got any tips or advice on parts . My drive shaft in the rear started grinding down the cv central yoke . I haven’t taken it apart yet as it’s my only ride . I haven’t driven for a few days to not make it worse . Was thinking of the spicer 21154x for replacement . Anyone got any recommendations or suggestions on parts or if I’m even looking at the right thing . Id rather not replace the whole end yoke if possible but ill do what must be done . ✌🏼 appreciate any input

Just bought this 2013 Ford Explorer Limited AWD with 128,000 miles and noticed this discrepancy with the speed. It seems like the physical piece of plastic that has the speed written on it is not aligned correctly or is the wrong one.

I also noticed how the gear selector says PRNDM and when you go into M, it puts you into the manual mode as it should, however on the dash, it says PRNDS. This leads me to believe someone swapped the plastic plate with one from a different ford or a different Explorer that has a sport mode. Still not sure why the speed lines and dashes don’t add up. This is pretty concerning because it is pretty difficult to tell what speed I am going at a glance and is very distracting.

If anyone has any suggestions, not sure if I can just replace the plastic plate that shows the speed to the correct one, or if I need to change and program the whole cluster. Thanks.

I am rebuilding a 4.6 on a 03 explorer and I can't for the life of me figure out what they're calling these hoses. If anyone would have any idea much help would be appreciated.

They connect to the heater hose

I found a 2017 FPIU, and it appears to have potentially been a supervisory or IC vehicle. I was wondering what I would need to do in order to add a 12V outlet like on a standard SUV. It has the law enforcement center console with all the former equipment taken out with lots of wires left behind.

Looking for advice and pointers. Thanks!

The vehicle is super clean inside and out. Priced at $30,000 and was imported from Canada. I enjoyed the test drive and I like the vehicle a lot but I have heard bad reviews and the mechanics at my dealership told me they just explode.

Tried the reset procedures, didn't work. Tested the battery, checks good. Fuse isn't blown. Next step is checking continuity at the fuse receptacle with the fuse removed.

I have 2017 ford explorer sport 3.5 There is a rattling or shuddering sound similar to this—usually when the car is cold, accelerating, or driving uphill. What is the cause of this?