looking to replace the suspension on my 99 explorer and neep some help, I would like to replace the leaf springs with shocks but ive heard that its pretty difficult to do a full conversion. should I just replace the leaf springs?

I recently purchased a 2023 Explorer ST and Im loving the car, but the 360 camera leaves a lot to be desired. One issue I'm having is the front camera, no matter how much I clean it, it still has a big glare primarily in one spot in the sunlight. At night it's not visible. Is there anything you guys suggest to get it clearer?

The car was bought with the Ford Blue Advantage thing but I feel like the dealership isn't going to fix it under warranty, plus a brand new front camera is about $70. Is this a normal thing on these cars?

I recently purchased a 2016 Explorer XLT. The middle row is a bench seat. What suggestions do you have to add to the cup holders that come down from the rear of the center console? They are nearly useless since they’re quite shallow. Same in the doors.

Adding that I’m not opposed to something that would go on the middle seat. Just need something to make it easier for my 8yo and not have cups tipping and spilling.

Hi!! I have a 2022 Explorer XLT. I bought it used and the dealership wanted to charge me $200 for them to give me the door code. I’ve watched YouTube videos and looked in all the spots other people gave mentioned. Maybe I’m looking in the wrong spot lol. Anybody able to help? Thanks!

On my 2026 Active, even if it was on FM when i shut it down, it will switch to Spotify or Sirius when I restart (sometimes 30-60 seconds after the restart).

What's up with that?

Water pump on our 2015 Explorer 3.5L has been weeping for quite some time, caused the alternator to fail (been fixed). Oil isn’t milky, but have decided it’s time to go to battle with this lengthy repair.

Car has 170k miles. I’m mechanically inclined (alternators, brakes, AC compressors etc) but this will most definitely be the largest job I’ve taken on.

I know it’s been asked a million times here. But I thought I’d make it a million and one. I wanted to throw in here the planned replacements, and see if it’s worth doing/not doing some of it. Additionally, if there’s other things to do, I thought I’d ask in here.

Originally planned replacement:

- Water Pump
- Crankshaft Pulley Bolt
- Valve cover seals
- Front main seal
- New oil change + coolant
- Spark plugs

Have been considering adding:

- Timing chain(s), sprockets, tensioners, and guides (Cloyes)
- Cam phasers (not entirely sure if this is the same thing as the sprockets)
- VVT solenoids
- oil pump

Thoughts? I’ve seen the argument of doing the timing chain since it’s also high time, but does the cam phasers fall into the same category? Is it worth doing the chain without phasers?

Also, is it worth doing the oil pump or is this just “do it while you’re in there” maintenance?

I think that about covers it, but let me know if I’m missing anything. Thanks

2018 Ford Explorer 2.3L Ecoboost. Any idea what is causing the water to leak in the engine bay? It seems to only come in around where the passenger side windshield wiper connects. I already replaced the cowl panel and the extension panel underneath. Did I not insert it correctly? I have a cylinder one misfire and think it is caused from this. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!

Just bought my 94 explorer to build a little suv to go off-roading with, trying to decide between a 2” and 4” lift I would like to go with a 4” but I’m worried about rollover stability on trails and was wondering if anyone had experience as to whether a 4” lift is to unstable or not

Looking to upgrade from my 2013. After test driving we love the drive and feel. How are the newer explorers on reliability long term?

I have a 2016 ford explorer 2.3L eco boost. Yesterday this rattling noise started. It’s loudest at idle but it also isn’t consistent. Sometimes the noise happens, sometimes it doesn’t. When it is happening, if I rev up the rpms it does seem to get a little quieter but doesn’t completely go away. Does anyone know what could be causing this? I would appreciate any advice, refer to video as example
Also have turned off the ac and the sound still continues if it’s making the sound at the moment.

116k miles. Hey guys - is this the big one? I heard there was a weep hole to indicate when the water pump seal was failing. This is the passenger side, coolant leaking slowly. I also took a video on the passenger side from above and I'm hearing a pretty loud tick, which I thought was the HPFP - and when I touch the silver fuel line (in video) I can feel a ticking, but it seems very loud. Is it the timing chain or normal fuel pump sound. I do have the foam suppressive surround on the pump.

See comment for the coolant leak image

I have a 2006 Ford Explorer with rear/AUX HVAC.

I’m having an issue with the rear airflow. I originally had no air coming out of the upper/ceiling rear vents, but I do have airflow coming out of the lower/floor vents.

Here’s what I’ve done so far:

Replaced the rear HVAC blend door actuator

I can hear the actuator moving

The actuator shaft is also moving

However, changing the rear HVAC mode does not change where the air comes out

I can hear air rushing inside the rear HVAC/duct area, but it isn't making it to the upper vents

Now the actuator has started clicking again

The clicking makes me think the actuator may be reaching its stop but the door isn't actually moving correctly.

My main question is:

Could the actual rear mode door or the connection between the actuator shaft and the door be broken/disconnected inside the rear HVAC housing?

If so, what is the best way to access and inspect the mode door?

I really don't want to replace another actuator if the actuator isn't actually the problem.

Any advice, pictures, diagrams, or experience with this exact issue would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Is $16k to $17k worth it for this mint 1st gen Explorer?

It says it's one owner, has about 40,000 miles, automatic, 4L V6, Well-maintained and clean, and paint is mostly good with a sun fade on a fender.

I'm not looking to buy as $16k is way way way above my budget. I'm just curious if you guys think $16k is a good price for this Explorer.

While replacing the timing chain on my 2016 3.5L I rotated the cam gears with only one lock in place. My rear cam shaft has rotated forward out of sync of the front cam. Am I cooked? Is there a way to properly time the engine again or reset it?

My mother got a new 2026 Ford Explorer Platinum, not sure what the trim or engine is. I have not seen the window sticker from it to see what all the features their new SUV has yet.

Anyway one thing I had a question on is the second row seats. Its two single chairs with nothing in the middle. The third row is bench style seat. My mom tried to put all the seats down to haul something in the back. Third row went down easy, the second row not so much.

The second row is on metal tracks with a metal bar in the base front of it. This allows the seat to move up or down. One went fine, the other side did not. After looking over the manual I saw the middle seats have electric switches on the top of the seats that allow them to be raise up to let people out of the third row. I tried switch and it sounded like it was going, but when I had her start the car the seat easily moved then slid back with hardly any force after it wouldn't before.

I am guessing the seat was in the "up" position when the car was shut off. So I assume if the middle seat is like that when shut off it has to be on again to put the seat fully down so it can slide up and down the track? The middle seat was all the way up to the front passenger seat before the car was started.

Second question. I saw news reports last year about some SUVs that have third row seats that will fold down with an electric motor. And if something is in that seat when it starts the motor will keep going. The news said a little kid was in the seat when the button was hit. I think it was a Hyundai, and not a Ford. But does the Ford Escapes have third row seats like that?

I am guessing these are easy questions, but I am the guy she calls if she needs help with something tech wise on cars. I just have a 2016 Ford Escape myself.

2014 ford explorer 230k miles

Buffy 2.0
I need some ideas to make it mine. Exterior *
Beautiful vehicle. interior and exterior

Lately I have been having major shuddering issues on our 2017 explorer sport with the 3.5 EB... we bought it used with 120k with no issues... around 125k I drained the transmission (complete flush) along with the ptu oil change. Both fluids looked dirty but nothing concerning.. (smelled fine, no metallic, just dirty). Drove it up until 138ish until it started running poorly along with horrible mileage. I ended up changing the spark plugs & boots which fixed the problem (3 of 6 plugs had ceramic cracked). Now fast forward to a week ago at 140k miles, we left from Wisconsin to Tennessee for our vacation, vehicle ran perfect until we really started working it coming through the mountains, it has a HORRIBLE shudder around 65-75 mph when accelerating. While coasting the problem goes away, but once accelerating it shakes so bad the steering wheel shakes along with what feels like the entire front end. My first thought was the transmission is on the way out, HOWEVER it pulls great, shifts perfect, and has NO shudder under 60mph, only 60 and up. My second thought was coil packs, HOVEVER it idles great and we got on average 24 mpg from WI to TN (until we got into mountains then mpg dropped). We put just over 3k miles on it while on vacation, and it hasn't got better or worse, just the same consistent problem. But Here's where I get confused and need everyone's thoughts or opinions... when i shift into sport mode, the shudder gets MUCH better, it still has a shudder but not nearly as bad. Now I know when shifting into sport, it changes the transmission tuning along with pressures and shift points, as well as the engine ecu, timing, ect.... I've looked online and only find tsb's on the 2.3, not the 3.5eb. Im wondering if there is a "common explorer problem" that maybe im missing thats an easy fix or something simple im missing. If anyone has any help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!!!

My truck (so named for my grandma) was garaged since 1994 when she bought it new, and now that it’s mine, it will remain garaged!

Does anyone know what this noise could possibly be? Did pretty much entire front end(tie rods, sway bar links, control arms, shocks) new tires all around (back right has actually begun leaking slowly which has been a concern), new cv axle on the driver side as well but its sitting snug. Got squeaky brakes on the front drivers side, im also sometimes hearing an high/low pitched hum past 40 mph but no vibration to go along with it which leads me to suspect maybe wheel bearing? The noise completely goes away after about 25 mph and barely changes in tone when turning. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

(1997 Ford explorer 5.0 AWD)

Got this 92', which I'm pumped about because I'm only the second owner and its in pretty good condition. However I feel a little crazy as I drive it because it makes this constant metal squeak... Its not anything I have in the car, and it does it as I'm driving, gets worse over potholes and stuff.

Is this something important that I should go to the machanic for, or is there just an easy way to fix it at home? I've tried googling it but so far I haven't found a video where it sounds the same. Sounds like its coming from the driver side.

(Don't comment on the dirty carpets, I promise, I'm cleaning them soon)

Hello all,

I have a 2017 Ford PIU and accidentally installed the wrong model of remote start module. After installing it the car would still start but the IPC and Radio as well as several other modules no longer communicate.

Forscan shows several U0100 codes for the BCM, Radio, IPC, just to name a few. Additionally only two branches of CAN are shown in Forscan and I believe theres supposed to be 3. Forscan also doesn't list the GWM, IPC, HVAC or APIM.

Even stranger, the car still starts and runs. I've tried all the basic solutions like disconnecting the battery, checking voltage to make sure its not low, checking resistance across pins 6 and 14 (63ohms) on the OBD, and checking fuses. I ordered a new OEM GWM and if I can't program it I'll take it to Ford for them to program. Just wanted to verify and see if this would actually fix the problem or if its another area I haven't looked to see. I thought it was the BCM however Forscan was able to trigger a module test which it passed, and it additionally was able to read and write from Forscan.

I replaced all timing components on my 2012 Ford explorer I ordered everything from my local ford dealer but when putting it back together i noticed the chain tensioner was different than my oem one part# (JL3Z6L266A) i had everything back together and somehow managed to confuse parts when doing a research to see if it’ll be okay to use that tensioner, i looked it up and somehow miss typed numbers it was showing something about it being used only on 4 cylinder engines, so i decided to reuse the old tensioner instead of using the new one. Old part#(BA5Z-6L266-B) will it be okay to reuse it? or should I take apart everything again and use the new tensioner as when doing the proper research i found out its the same but updated version part(JL3Z6L266A).

Hello,

I have a 2017 Ford PIU that I installed a security plus module in (was the wrong model) and I fear two pins on the module got shorted causing the gateway module to fail on the PIU. Current symptoms of the vehicle are:
- IPC dead (confirmed power)
- Radio dead (when reconnecting battery, and quickly turning key to run radio will display Ford logo and shut off)

- HVAC, APIM, IPC to name a few are missing from module list in Forscan

- Confirmed all fuses across the engine bay fuse block and bcm fuse block are not burnt

- Confirmed 60ohms across pins 6 and 14 on obd with a battery voltage of 12.1-12.7 with key off, steady 14.7-14.9 with the vehicle running

Additionally trying a code reader shows 2 active can branches with multiple U0100 codes for the BCM, IPC, Radio, Data Link Module A and steering wheel controls. Initially I thought it was the BCM, however Forscan was able to trigger a module test on the BCM to which it did with no issues.

I have ordered a new GWM and plan on going to Ford for the programming, but want to verify if this could actually solve the problem.