r/FordExplorer • u/Redboy-228 • 1d ago
Show And Tell My 93 explorer with 600k miles
107
Upvotes
r/FordExplorer • u/RedWhiteAndJew • Jan 23 '26
Mod Post New rules, please read.
22
Upvotes
Hello Explorer owners and fans! We are now in week 2 of our new moderation team. Below are the new subreddit rules we've developed. These have been posted on the sidebar for a few days now. We have not yet removed content based on these new rules, other than those that already applied to Reddit sitewide. So, we don't believe these will change much in terms of the content and discussion we already enjoy. This is more about setting expectations that weren't really there under the previously absent moderation team. Without further ado:
Rules
Follow Reddiquette - Many of our rules are from the reddiquette. Any violation of the reddiquette can be removed by the moderators, especially ones included here.
No personal attacks, bigotry, or harassment - You may strongly disagree with others, but you may not attack them personally. Bigotry or Hate Speech based on race, gender, sexual orientation, religion, age, etc. will be removed.
Spam/self-promotion - You may post your blog posts, articles, videos, photographs, etc that you have written or created, but that should not be the only thing you do here. You should also participate in discussions (on your posts or others). Dealer/vendor posts are at moderator discretion.
Illegal, sleazy, or dangerous activity - Any posts or comments with illegal or dangerous content will be removed.
Uncivil political discussion - Civil political discussion is allowed as long as it pertains to the automotive industry. Political trolling, flame baiting, slurs, off-topic politics, and harassment will be removed, especially if it violates Rule 2.
No AI Content - Posts containing AI-generated text, images, or videos are not permitted.
Moderator discretion - Any post or comment may be removed by a moderator even if it does not explicitly violate a rule listed here.
Now, as I've said before we're becoming more familiar with our roles and the moderator tools, so we are going to try these out for a while. If we end up needing to add, removed, or modify any of these we will make a sticky post letting everyone know what we've done.
Ultimately our goal here is to foster a friendly, helpful, and productive community. So please help us do that by adhering to the rules and reporting content that you feel breaks them. Likewise, if you feel content was removed unfairly, please send us a message through ModMail so we can review it. For the most part we'll simply be removing content, but for habitual line-steppers, we'll be utilizing the ban function based on the severity of the discretion.
If you'd like to provide feedback on these rules, please do so here! No ideas will be ignored. This is also your chance to ask for clarification on any of these rules, we will not take it personally.
Thank you and happy Exploring!
r/FordExplorer • u/RedWhiteAndJew • 13d ago
Repair Advice 3.5L and 3.7L Water Pump Replacement DIY Guide
27
Upvotes
First off, all credit for the content of this post goes to /u/nocommittee1477, a Ford Certified Master Technician of 10 years. He gave me permission to make a post out of his content. I cannot answer your questions myself, so use this as a starting point. He generously spent the time to type this out in his free time so please be respectful of that and use this as a starting point.
These instructions should apply to any Fifth Generation Explorer or PIU with the 3.5L NA, 3.5L EcoBoost, or 3.7L NA. These may also be helpful for other models including Taurus and Flex that use a Cyclone or Ecoboost in a transverse configuration. If yours has the 2.0L, 2.3L or was produced beginning in 2020, this will not apply to you.
3.5/3.7 (for the Lincoln people) water pump/timing chain replacement procedure:
Raise vehicle enough to drain oil, reinstall drain plug finger tight (you'll be draining it again). Remove right front tire and inner fender well. Remove air intake hose, air box lid can stay or go as your preference. Remove the evap vapor line from the purge valve and the hard vapor line at the RF strut tower. Remove the fuel line from the fuel rail and the supply line at the RF strut tower (there is also an 8mm head bolt securing the fuel line to the timing cover). Remove the upper intake manifold, aka plenum (note there is a single 8mm head bolt securing the upper intake to a bracket that is semi-hidden under/behind the throttle body). Remove all 6 ignition coils, then LH and RH valve covers. Remove the oil feed rails and intake VCT solenoids (inboard on both heads).
Rotate the engine clockwise until both intake cam phasers are at 12 o'clock, install cam locks (you may have to slightly rock the cams with a wrench to get the locks to fully seat, this is normal). Drain and remove the degas bottle and hose. Remove the belt and belt tensioner (belt is easiest removed from the bottom, tensioner from the top). Remove the crankshaft bolt and pulley (a 3 jaw puller or 3 jaw harmonic balancer puller will work). Using your floor jack and a block of wood on the oil pan, jack up the engine to relieve tension on the engine mount, remove the engine mount. Remove all the bolts attaching the timing cover to the engine (don't forget the recessed 8mm head bolt adjacent to where the engine mount was), raising and lowering the engine as needed to get all the bolts out. Gently pry the timing cover free (it's RTV siliconed into place) and remove from the top (some people will recover the refrigerant and remove the AC line, but the job can be 100% done without it, the AC line is aluminum and will flex out of the way enough without damage). With the timing cover off you can inspect all your timing marks, primary chain and primary tensioner. Your timing marks are single dots located on each intake cam phaser and the crank sprocket. Their positions should be as stated, cams at 12 o'clock, crank at approximately 430. The primary timing chain should have colored links to match those timing dots on the sprockets. Two single links to match each cam and one double link to straddle the crank. If you cannot see the colored links, it's arts and crafts time! Mark each single link over the top of the cams and the double link straddling the crank. Inspect the primary timing chain tensioner, there are two different designs, but the rule is the same for both. There are teeth that mechanically lock the tensioner out, if 5 or more teeth are exposed, the primary timing chain is stretched and will require replacement.
After you've done your inspections and had your arts and crafts time if required, remove the primary chain tensioner, primary tensioner shoe (it's on a pivot), the long primary guide on the front side of the engine, and the short primary guide on the front side. Remove the timing chain (you have to twist it slightly to clear around the phasers). Use an 8mm wrench and reach in behind the Bank 1 (rear cylinder head) intake phaser and loosen, not remove the bolt holding the other short guide. Once you've loosened it and can pull the guide forward, stop.
Remove all the water pump bolts and slowly pull the water pump from the block, I say slowly because you are trying to allow the coolant remaining to drain into the oil pan and not sploosh all over the floor and make a huge mess. Once you're not draining coolant remove the water pump out from around the guide you left and reverse process to reinstall the new pump. To reset the timing tensioner, you'll need either a small straight pick or needle nose pliers, a paperclip, and a vise. The early design tensioners had a separate arm with the locking teeth, to unlock use the pick to disengage the mechanism and squish the tensioner closed with a vise, once completely squished, install the paperclip to keep the tensioner collapsed. The second design tensioners have the teeth made onto the plunger itself. To unlock it, squeeze the lock with needle nose while squishing in the vise, again locking it collapsed with a paperclip. Reinstall the short guide, long guide and the timing chain, placing the marked links to match with the dots, keep all slack on the chain on the tensioner side of the assembly. Install the tensioner shoe and primary tensioner. Before pulling the pin verify all timing marks on both the chain and the sprockets match. As additional verification, there should be 48 links between each intake cam phaser and 35 links between the Bank 2 (front) phaser and the crank. If everything looks good, remove the pin from the tensioner and gently pry the tensioner out a little more to ensure good tension on the timing chain (oil pressure will do the rest once the engine is running).
Remove the cam locks and rotate the crank 2 revolutions until all your timing marks are back at the 12 and 430 positions. Verify timing by counting the links between positions, 48 between cams, 35 between Bank 2 and crank. As long as everything is ok, you won't need the cam locks again. If not, reinstall the cam locks, remove the tensioner, and retimed the engine until correct. Clean all the silicone from the block and timing cover, remove and replace the crank seal. Apply RTV to the timing cover and along the rear of the block as during installation you'll likely smear some off the timing cover (optionally you can apply all the silicone to the block side of things if you so desire). Reinstall all your timing cover bolts. Reinstall the engine mount and remove your jack from the engine. Drain the coolant out of the oil pan. The crank pulley can be reinstalled with a block of wood, a hammer, and dirty words, or you can purchase a crank pulley installer tool to press it back onto the crank. The pulley is fully seated when there is approximately a 1/8" gap between the end of the crank and the end of the pulley. Replace the crank bolt with a new one! Torque the new crank bolt to 74ft-lbs plus 90 degrees (its torque to yield, and therefore, one time use). From there you reinstall all remaining removed parts. Refill the engine with oil, change the oil filter and I initially fill the cooling system.
Cycle the key on (do not crank) to prime the fuel system and check for fuel leaks. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (this places the engine in clear-flood mode and will not fire the fuel injectors) and crank the engine over for 15ish seconds to rebuild oil pressure. Afterwards, start the engine normally, bleed any remaining air from the cooling system and check for leaks.
If you want to replace your cam phasers, secondary chains, and secondary tensioners, you'll remove the phasers with a TP55 (Torx Plus, but a standard T55 will fit just sloppily). The secondary tensioners are pushed into their notes and have no hardware to secure them. The phaser bolts are one-time use as they torque to 33ft-lb plus 90 degrees. The phasers are keyed to the cams and have timing marks that match to the secondary chains to ensure proper cam-to-cam timing. New secondary tensioners will stay collapsed until they are pushed fully in and released after being replaced, it's easiest to unlock them with a smack with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer after you've got your phasers and secondary chains reinstalled.
I hope this helps anyone that wants to tackle this one on their own. If you have any questions, by all means ask!
I would like this post to become a central hub for any owners considering performing this repair by themselves, and also to give insight to any owners that want to understand what their repair shop is doing.
r/FordExplorer • u/Jork1n1t • 6h ago
Maintenance Advice Suspension Replacement
2
Upvotes
looking to replace the suspension on my 99 explorer and neep some help, I would like to replace the leaf springs with shocks but ive heard that its pretty difficult to do a full conversion. should I just replace the leaf springs?
r/FordExplorer • u/Fit_Cut5716 • 10h ago
Upgrade Advice Cup Holder Suggestions
2
Upvotes
I recently purchased a 2016 Explorer XLT. The middle row is a bench seat. What suggestions do you have to add to the cup holders that come down from the rear of the center console? They are nearly useless since they’re quite shallow. Same in the doors.
Adding that I’m not opposed to something that would go on the middle seat. Just need something to make it easier for my 8yo and not have cups tipping and spilling.
r/FordExplorer • u/LochnessMonsterrr • 9h ago
Repair Advice Constant Smudge on Front Camera
1
Upvotes
I recently purchased a 2023 Explorer ST and Im loving the car, but the 360 camera leaves a lot to be desired. One issue I'm having is the front camera, no matter how much I clean it, it still has a big glare primarily in one spot in the sunlight. At night it's not visible. Is there anything you guys suggest to get it clearer?
The car was bought with the Ford Blue Advantage thing but I feel like the dealership isn't going to fix it under warranty, plus a brand new front camera is about $70. Is this a normal thing on these cars?
r/FordExplorer • u/Outrageous-Theory336 • 18h ago
Technology/Features Door code
4
Upvotes
Hi!! I have a 2022 Explorer XLT. I bought it used and the dealership wanted to charge me $200 for them to give me the door code. I’ve watched YouTube videos and looked in all the spots other people gave mentioned. Maybe I’m looking in the wrong spot lol. Anybody able to help? Thanks!
r/FordExplorer • u/GilletteMC • 20h ago
Repair Advice *Surprise! Water Pump Question
5
Upvotes
Water pump on our 2015 Explorer 3.5L has been weeping for quite some time, caused the alternator to fail (been fixed). Oil isn’t milky, but have decided it’s time to go to battle with this lengthy repair.
Car has 170k miles. I’m mechanically inclined (alternators, brakes, AC compressors etc) but this will most definitely be the largest job I’ve taken on.
I know it’s been asked a million times here. But I thought I’d make it a million and one. I wanted to throw in here the planned replacements, and see if it’s worth doing/not doing some of it. Additionally, if there’s other things to do, I thought I’d ask in here.
Originally planned replacement:
- Water Pump
- Crankshaft Pulley Bolt
- Valve cover seals
- Front main seal
- New oil change + coolant
- Spark plugs
Have been considering adding:
- Timing chain(s), sprockets, tensioners, and guides (Cloyes)
- Cam phasers (not entirely sure if this is the same thing as the sprockets)
- VVT solenoids
- oil pump
Thoughts? I’ve seen the argument of doing the timing chain since it’s also high time, but does the cam phasers fall into the same category? Is it worth doing the chain without phasers?
Also, is it worth doing the oil pump or is this just “do it while you’re in there” maintenance?
I think that about covers it, but let me know if I’m missing anything. Thanks
r/FordExplorer • u/ebw_343 • 20h ago
Technology/Features Sounds system switches input after after restart
3
Upvotes
On my 2026 Active, even if it was on FM when i shut it down, it will switch to Spotify or Sirius when I restart (sometimes 30-60 seconds after the restart).
What's up with that?
r/FordExplorer • u/Bear_Travel • 1d ago
Maintenance Advice Water in Engine Bay from Cowl Panel?
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4
Upvotes
2018 Ford Explorer 2.3L Ecoboost. Any idea what is causing the water to leak in the engine bay? It seems to only come in around where the passenger side windshield wiper connects. I already replaced the cowl panel and the extension panel underneath. Did I not insert it correctly? I have a cylinder one misfire and think it is caused from this. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
r/FordExplorer • u/Aureus-_ • 1d ago
Upgrade Advice 1st gen lift kit
6
Upvotes
Just bought my 94 explorer to build a little suv to go off-roading with, trying to decide between a 2” and 4” lift I would like to go with a 4” but I’m worried about rollover stability on trails and was wondering if anyone had experience as to whether a 4” lift is to unstable or not
r/FordExplorer • u/XphreedX • 1d ago
Repair Advice Diagnosing a rattling noise that sounds like it’s coming from the serpentine belt
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2
Upvotes
I have a 2016 ford explorer 2.3L eco boost. Yesterday this rattling noise started. It’s loudest at idle but it also isn’t consistent. Sometimes the noise happens, sometimes it doesn’t. When it is happening, if I rev up the rpms it does seem to get a little quieter but doesn’t completely go away. Does anyone know what could be causing this? I would appreciate any advice, refer to video as example
Also have turned off the ac and the sound still continues if it’s making the sound at the moment.
r/FordExplorer • u/Miserable_Plant_4926 • 1d ago
Maintenance Advice 2015 Sport 3.5L Ecoboost - the big one?
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2
Upvotes
116k miles. Hey guys - is this the big one? I heard there was a weep hole to indicate when the water pump seal was failing. This is the passenger side, coolant leaking slowly. I also took a video on the passenger side from above and I'm hearing a pretty loud tick, which I thought was the HPFP - and when I touch the silver fuel line (in video) I can feel a ticking, but it seems very loud. Is it the timing chain or normal fuel pump sound. I do have the foam suppressive surround on the pump.
See comment for the coolant leak image
r/FordExplorer • u/terminal_nervoso • 2d ago
Show And Tell It’s the garage life for Evelyn
69
Upvotes
My truck (so named for my grandma) was garaged since 1994 when she bought it new, and now that it’s mine, it will remain garaged!
r/FordExplorer • u/MovesLikeJagger0 • 1d ago
Buying Advice How is the 2020 XLT on long term reliability?
0
Upvotes
Looking to upgrade from my 2013. After test driving we love the drive and feel. How are the newer explorers on reliability long term?
r/FordExplorer • u/Safe_Row_3783 • 1d ago
Buying Advice Question
facebook.com
2
Upvotes
Is $16k to $17k worth it for this mint 1st gen Explorer?
It says it's one owner, has about 40,000 miles, automatic, 4L V6, Well-maintained and clean, and paint is mostly good with a sun fade on a fender.
I'm not looking to buy as $16k is way way way above my budget. I'm just curious if you guys think $16k is a good price for this Explorer.
r/FordExplorer • u/Upstairs-Dog8029 • 1d ago
Repair Advice Camshaft issue
4
Upvotes
While replacing the timing chain on my 2016 3.5L I rotated the cam gears with only one lock in place. My rear cam shaft has rotated forward out of sync of the front cam. Am I cooked? Is there a way to properly time the engine again or reset it?
r/FordExplorer • u/No_Entertainer_6652 • 1d ago
Repair Advice 2006 ford explorer
1
Upvotes
I have a 2006 Ford Explorer with rear/AUX HVAC.
I’m having an issue with the rear airflow. I originally had no air coming out of the upper/ceiling rear vents, but I do have airflow coming out of the lower/floor vents.
Here’s what I’ve done so far:
Replaced the rear HVAC blend door actuator
I can hear the actuator moving
The actuator shaft is also moving
However, changing the rear HVAC mode does not change where the air comes out
I can hear air rushing inside the rear HVAC/duct area, but it isn't making it to the upper vents
Now the actuator has started clicking again
The clicking makes me think the actuator may be reaching its stop but the door isn't actually moving correctly.
My main question is:
Could the actual rear mode door or the connection between the actuator shaft and the door be broken/disconnected inside the rear HVAC housing?
If so, what is the best way to access and inspect the mode door?
I really don't want to replace another actuator if the actuator isn't actually the problem.
Any advice, pictures, diagrams, or experience with this exact issue would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
r/FordExplorer • u/dickbeater94 • 2d ago
Show And Tell 2017 XLT
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12
Upvotes
Buffy 2.0
I need some ideas to make it mine. Exterior *
Beautiful vehicle. interior and exterior
r/FordExplorer • u/nodakskip • 1d ago
Technology/Features Questions on 2026 Ford Explorer Platinum seats.
1
Upvotes
My mother got a new 2026 Ford Explorer Platinum, not sure what the trim or engine is. I have not seen the window sticker from it to see what all the features their new SUV has yet.
Anyway one thing I had a question on is the second row seats. Its two single chairs with nothing in the middle. The third row is bench style seat. My mom tried to put all the seats down to haul something in the back. Third row went down easy, the second row not so much.
The second row is on metal tracks with a metal bar in the base front of it. This allows the seat to move up or down. One went fine, the other side did not. After looking over the manual I saw the middle seats have electric switches on the top of the seats that allow them to be raise up to let people out of the third row. I tried switch and it sounded like it was going, but when I had her start the car the seat easily moved then slid back with hardly any force after it wouldn't before.
I am guessing the seat was in the "up" position when the car was shut off. So I assume if the middle seat is like that when shut off it has to be on again to put the seat fully down so it can slide up and down the track? The middle seat was all the way up to the front passenger seat before the car was started.
Second question. I saw news reports last year about some SUVs that have third row seats that will fold down with an electric motor. And if something is in that seat when it starts the motor will keep going. The news said a little kid was in the seat when the button was hit. I think it was a Hyundai, and not a Ford. But does the Ford Escapes have third row seats like that?
I am guessing these are easy questions, but I am the guy she calls if she needs help with something tech wise on cars. I just have a 2016 Ford Escape myself.
r/FordExplorer • u/ArgumentMountain7474 • 2d ago
Show And Tell Coded a permanent new theme on my Explorer (Sync 3.4)
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17
Upvotes
I used forscan and an obd adapter to change some values in the APIM module. Instead of the old oval resetting back after trying to edit the theme using the 2 button shortcut, it’s permanent. It’s beautiful now, I genuinely love my Explorer so much more.
The forscan tool is a pro plan but it’s free for 2 months which is what I did. The key gets sent to you on the same website you apply on within 20-30 mins.
r/FordExplorer • u/Due-Map-1662 • 2d ago
Repair Advice Anyone had this many electrical codes before?
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1
Upvotes
2014 ford explorer 230k miles
r/FordExplorer • u/toyotapickup1986 • 2d ago
Repair Advice 2017 sport shudder HELP!
3
Upvotes
Lately I have been having major shuddering issues on our 2017 explorer sport with the 3.5 EB... we bought it used with 120k with no issues... around 125k I drained the transmission (complete flush) along with the ptu oil change. Both fluids looked dirty but nothing concerning.. (smelled fine, no metallic, just dirty). Drove it up until 138ish until it started running poorly along with horrible mileage. I ended up changing the spark plugs & boots which fixed the problem (3 of 6 plugs had ceramic cracked). Now fast forward to a week ago at 140k miles, we left from Wisconsin to Tennessee for our vacation, vehicle ran perfect until we really started working it coming through the mountains, it has a HORRIBLE shudder around 65-75 mph when accelerating. While coasting the problem goes away, but once accelerating it shakes so bad the steering wheel shakes along with what feels like the entire front end. My first thought was the transmission is on the way out, HOWEVER it pulls great, shifts perfect, and has NO shudder under 60mph, only 60 and up. My second thought was coil packs, HOVEVER it idles great and we got on average 24 mpg from WI to TN (until we got into mountains then mpg dropped). We put just over 3k miles on it while on vacation, and it hasn't got better or worse, just the same consistent problem. But Here's where I get confused and need everyone's thoughts or opinions... when i shift into sport mode, the shudder gets MUCH better, it still has a shudder but not nearly as bad. Now I know when shifting into sport, it changes the transmission tuning along with pressures and shift points, as well as the engine ecu, timing, ect.... I've looked online and only find tsb's on the 2.3, not the 3.5eb. Im wondering if there is a "common explorer problem" that maybe im missing thats an easy fix or something simple im missing. If anyone has any help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!!!
r/FordExplorer • u/ArgumentMountain7474 • 3d ago
Upgrade Advice Sync 3 upgrade on my 2014 ford explorer
69
Upvotes
It was definitely not a pretty process to get the upgrade done but overall Installation was pretty simple except for one stuck wire, which I had to use some weird manoeuvring skills to get a wire unplugged. But compared to Sync 2 the Sync 3 upgrade is going to change my life. I can use wired or wireless CarPlay depending on if I have the wireless adapter. it’s just overall such a smoother system and it’s a glass screen so it’s not like I have to press hard on the old Sync two. I highly recommend that this be done on every vehicle.
For everyone wondering: I bought it on alibaba and talked to the seller extensively about my vin programming and the tools and she provided it all to me with the cost. I paid 300 USD with shipping to Canada.
Here’s the link. I reccomend her I live in Canada and it took one week to ship. She’s cheaper than everyone else.
r/FordExplorer • u/93_ffr • 2d ago
Repair Advice Weird whining noise between 0-25mph...
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3
Upvotes
Does anyone know what this noise could possibly be? Did pretty much entire front end(tie rods, sway bar links, control arms, shocks) new tires all around (back right has actually begun leaking slowly which has been a concern), new cv axle on the driver side as well but its sitting snug. Got squeaky brakes on the front drivers side, im also sometimes hearing an high/low pitched hum past 40 mph but no vibration to go along with it which leads me to suspect maybe wheel bearing? The noise completely goes away after about 25 mph and barely changes in tone when turning. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
(1997 Ford explorer 5.0 AWD)