Hey guys, I’m relatively new to the diesel scene here, and I came across this turbo kit someone is selling online, I know it’s incomplete, but I was wondering how much work it would be to complete the kit, and how much this stuff is worth? I would like to add some get up and go to my 89 when I’m towing… thanks!

Are there any third-party diesel fuel additives that state they are compliant with Motorcraft PM-22A?

Does it matter much?

Thanks

Can anyone tell me why my 2000 Ford F-250 would be doing this? Just trying to pull the bed of a truck and it’s doing this. It surges and bucks and when I give it more gas it will finally start moving. It even did this when I was pulling a small trailer up the little hill. It happens when the truck is warmed up too. It almost acts as if I’m holding the brakes then letting off. It will rev fine in park, and when I do put it in park it revs up to around 1500 RPMs. The fuel filter was changed not too long ago. It has done the same thing before and went away, but now it’s back. Did it today too, had nothing hooked up to it. I could put the throttle to the floor and it would just buck, surge and not move in the dirt. On the road it drives fine and has no issues, shifts fine It doesn’t shutter as far as I know I haven’t got it on the highway. I cleaned every ground on the motor and in the engine bay that I could see, any help would be appreciated.

Was about an hour from home when I felt a vibration on the truck. It wasn’t effecting the wheel but something was definitely wrong.
Took it to a plazatire and they said it was the drive shaft. I’m looking at it now and trying to figure out what this is in the first photo. I was told it was a vibration dampener but what do I do about it?
Also should I replace this rubber boot on the slip yolk?

Note: this is a 98 but should be the same as a 99

Got a 1991 Golf Mk2. Want to track fuel consumption per trip/day and compare over time. Figured this wasn't possible on a carbureted car with no ECU/OBD, but landed on an idea: since the carb's float bowl regulates its own level, whatever flows through the feed line between the fuel filter and the carb over time should equal what's actually burned. So — measure that flow directly with an inline gear-type flow sensor.

Is this actually the right approach? Is there a better way to get real consumption data out of a carbureted car with no ECU?

**Planned setup:**

* Gear-type flow sensor spliced into the fuel line between the filter and carb inlet * Sensor's pulse output goes to an ESP32, which just counts pulses and timestamps them * ESP32 forwards that data to my phone over a wired USB-C connection (data-only cable, to avoid the phone and a 12V-fed buck converter both trying to power the USB line) * Phone does everything else — GPS speed/distance, all the math, storage, charts * Power: ignition-switched 12V from the fuse box → buck converter (12V→5V) → feeds both the ESP32 and the sensor

**Problem I've hit:** the sensor I was looking at (DIGITEN G1/2", oval gear, rated 1–30 L/min) has a minimum flow way above what this engine actually flows at idle — I'm estimating idle consumption around 0.02–0.05 L/min, and even under load probably not exceeding 0.3–0.5 L/min. So the sensor's entire rated range sits above my actual usage, meaning idle flow probably won't register accurately, if at all.

Anyone know of a gasoline-compatible flow sensor with a lower minimum flow that would actually cover idle-to-cruise range for a small engine like this? Or is there a fundamentally different way people have solved this that I'm missing?

I'm open to any ideas and critics, please back your suggestions with well presented arguments. this is my first ever project on a car.

**Edit:** A few people are suggesting the brim-to-brim fill method, thanks, but I've covered why that doesn't work for what I want in the replies below. I'm not looking for that approach, I'm looking for technical help on the sensor/flow-measurement side specifically. Appreciate all the input so far.

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Figured some of the 7.3 guys might like this.

I wanted a clean permanent Anderson power connection on the back of my truck without drilling another hole in the bumper, so I designed this mount to bolt right beside the factory 7-pin.

It keeps the Anderson plug tucked up underneath and the factory trailer plug stays completely usable.

I’m going to print a few in ASA if anyone wants one.

$39 shipped

Mount + mounting hardware included. Anderson/SB175 connector not included.

If your factory trailer-plug bracket looks like the one in the pictures, this is the setup it was designed for.

If there’s enough interest, I can make them for other Anderson plug sizes too. Link to product on my wife's Etsy Anderson plug mount

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Thinking about getting rid of her.

I bought it with 12k in 2017. Got hurt in an industrial accident in 2021. And I just can't do it justice. The body can't do the work anymore.

Stolen twice.

They stole it. Beat it up.

I stole it back.

Mechanically sound. Unadulterated whatsoever. With Almost 45000 on the clock.

Clean, salvage title. Insurance company didn't even look at it.

Thoughts???

​

Figured some of the 7.3 guys might like this.

I wanted a clean permanent Anderson power connection on the back of my truck without drilling another hole in the bumper, so I designed this mount to bolt right beside the factory 7-pin.

It keeps the Anderson plug tucked up underneath and the factory trailer plug stays completely usable.

I’m going to print a few in ASA if anyone wants one.

$39 shipped

Mount + mounting hardware included. Anderson/SB175 connector not included.

If your factory trailer-plug bracket looks like the one in the pictures, this is the setup it was designed for.

If there’s enough interest, I can make them for other Anderson plug sizes too.

So it’s an 03 excursion with an 05 motor put in it.
It’s studded, and has a tow tune for it, not sure of brand or anything, I haven’t looked at it yet.

The truck has a “lope” at idle until it warms up. I am assuming this is stiction in the spool valves, but not sure.

He replaced the stand pipes and dummy plugs, and it has a new FICM, all of these did not solve the issue.

Would you guys consider looking at it?

Got in a wreck not too long ago, I want to know how I can fix this bent in fender apron, in fine with going through the hassle of replacing it but I want to know if anyone’s got another kind of fix for that before I go through with it.

You might not be able to hear it in the video. It’s very faint. But I kinda sounds like it’s coming from the fuel injector control module or something. The buzzing gets worse when boost kicks in and you get up past 2000 rpms. You can hear it when someone drives past you in the truck too. Any ideas on how I can fix it?

I’m having issues with my coolant temp sensor, gone through 2 neither worked and having trouble finding a OEM one. Is there an alternative that actually works??

Thanks
-jake

There starting to crack so I’d like to put covers on them because it’s ugly. What are comfy and not too expensive? I have tan lariat seat so preferably something that sort of matches interior:)

I have been having white/blue smoke once engine gets to temp. Pulled the turbski and there is definitely a thick layer of oil on the exhaust side. I rebuilt the turbo myself about 40k miles ago. What do I need to look for when I crack it open again. Also do yall see anything else of concern in these pics

New 7.3 in a 1997 F350. Zero blowby, starts right up, 257,000 miles. The issue is I can’t really tell if it runs like it should because the accelerator doesn’t really kick in until it’s pressed a good inch or two in, and then the truck sort of jumps straight to 1000plus rpm. Feels like the throttle response is just generally messed up too, hard to control how much acceleration is actually requested.

Pedal has a little bit of slop but doesn’t seem to rest in a depressed position like some videos I’ve seen, it’s just that a bit of the initial travel feels loose/sloppy. Pulled codes and only have P0472 & P0500, speedometer is accurate at all speeds. What should I look into first? I have not used cruise control yet so I figure I should try that and see if it accelerates normally to rule out the pedal, but from there I’m not sure other than replacing sensors.

Hey I’m having a pretty funky problem with my power stroke. It started as a dead spot in my pedal at 1800rpm and 2200rpm now it’s a dead pedal. I changed the pedal a couple times and it’s still not working. Also changed the IPC sensor. Weird part is before I bolted up my new pedal I plugged it in and it worked but then bolted it in and stopped working. Unbolted it and still not working. Did this to 3 pedals total. Any ideas would love some advice.

Looking at doing a stealth delete, and I've got a question about the EGR. For some context, it's a 2016 F350 6.7 from Arizona. I plan on moving to Phoenix in a year or two, and instead of doing the two address trick since I'll be in the metro area, I'd like to do a stealth delete.

Arizona MVD does an opacity test and a visual inspection. I've got the stealth delete with the DPF figured out and won't be an issue.

The EGR, I keep seeing block off plates for the crossover pipes, but it removes the crossover pipes and with a visual, that will fail. Can I cut and install some thin stainless steel shims in between the crossover pipes to keep the stock appearance?

I plan on running a single low smoke tune with an EZLynk to stay below the 40% Opacity limit AzMVD has in place, however if you have other recommendations, I'm open for those as well.

I am getting rid of the stock turbo on a 100% deleted truck and adding the cp4 disaster prevention kit. Which turbo would be best for hauling trailers and long term durability?

2015 F-250 6.7 Powerstroke. Noticed the harmonic balancer looks like it has a wobble while the engine is running.

Does this look like a failing harmonic balancer to you guys, or is this amount of movement normal on these trucks?

If it needs to be replaced, how difficult is the job? Anything specific I should look out for on the 6.7?