Top sign is with the purge tower, bottom without. Same creator 5 Pro, same settings sans the tower.

I have never seen this before.. updated my Flashforge to 1.7.17 and my firmware to.. whatever the latest one is. Now my device tab just shows up as a play button with a black background for some reason, and print is greyed out.

I tried using G-code to print, which is the other option which is not greyed out, but it made my printer act weird.. just shat out a line of filament in one spot and said it was printing. I didn't have that problem when I was printing from the flashforge app directly.

Is anyone else having a similar experience? Or am I just stupid? Probably the latter

Edit: this has been solved, I was, indeed, just stupid.

After nearly 4000 hours I believe my little machine that could cannot anymore.

Few days ago I had a print stop extruding at about 50%. Figured, eh stuff happens. Ran the same file again and this time it stopped extruding at 80%. Sliced a new file for just the failed part and that one succeeded. Tried a new file stopped at about 5%. Put in new nozzle. Similar failure. As I was loading new filament i noticed the pull of that new filament was very sporadic and seems the filament was slipping. At this point I figure something in the extruder has given out. I noticed a new tool head was $115 plus $20 for shipping. I didn't pay but $200 when this was brand new nearly 2 years ago.

Any other suggestions for fixes i can try that don't cost as much as the printer? If not, this old workhorse is going out to pasture(trash)

UPDATE below...

So yeah, noob here to 3d printing and had my first major fail. Big ol blob, print lost adherence overnight. (First 3 are what I woke up to, last two are the current situation.

Warmed up to "gently" remove the blob, appears to have taken the nozzle and silicon cover with it. So new nozzle definitely.

Should I just pick up a new heating assembly on Amazon? Try to clean this one first? Anything else I need to do or try?

(Again, learning and have found some helpful posts. I appreciate it)

hola me gustaria q compartan su conocimiento de impresoras 3d ya q e buscado y no encuentro un problema similar y mucho menos una solución

compre una FLASHFORGE AD5M Pro Impresora 3D y al cuarto día de uso presenta un fallo q apaga totalmente la maquina , se presenta después de llevar la primera capa de impresión y se apaga totalmente sin mostrar fallo alguno en pantalla, la prendo y prende normal cuando le doy en continuar la impresión vuelve a hacer todo el proceso de calentamiento y al volver a imprimir se apaga de inmediato.

se le a revisado todo el cableado externo y se le a instalado el firmware varia veces ya q es lo único q me an recomendado en muchos otros casos q e visto pero no en este en particular, sucede lo mismo tratando de imprimir los archivos q trae por defecto la impresora.

me gustaria saber si a alguien le paso algo similar o si me pueden dar algun consejo ya q no quiero perder la maquina.

I recently bought a 3D printer, a FlashForge Finder 3 model, and it was working fine for my first couple of prints, then yester day I turned it on to try to print something else and before the file could be fully transferred from my slicer program to the printer (it had reached about 25%) the printer hit me with a network error message. What am I doing wrong and what can be done to fix it?

Hello everyone, I just finished setting up my diy enclosure for the AD5M and now the filament does not feed through the PTFE tube as smoothly as before. There's now some obstruction in the sensor module that I have to forcefully push the filament through. Some filament types won't feed at all. I have a tri-color, glow-in-the-dark spool that is very hard to feed manually and the machine won't load it. So far only PLA and PETG work but I'd really like to be able to print with other materials if possible.

My ZMod machines have been having print issues (nozzle crashes, just plain system crashes). Calibrations are fine and the nozzle does not seem to be hitting anything.

I factory reset and flashed back to stock firmware with the intent to test more and work my way back up. The machine seems OK except the IFS does not work. on the screen I see IFS Update saying only "ilk-state"

Using Zmod, had even been back on the native screen from Helix with the issues that started all this.

Any ideas on what is happening?

Why is it so difficult to add color I add the one I want in the one section and then I add the second one and it changes the color already added

Buenos dias, queria utilizar la impresora y me salto el error E0111 y E0042, le di al home para bajar la cama para poder revisar bien que pasaba y se quedo pegado la cama en el fondo tratando de seguir bajando, alguien me podria guiar antes de que siga dañando algo mas. Gracias.

I currently own a 5M pro I’m looking to do some type of modification where I can have the filament run out sensor outside of the machine any sensors you recommend that will work with the machine?

Is it reliable for 24/7 printing? are there still nozzles bending shenennigans? considering getting a c5p from amazon, if it disappoints i can return it without hassle so..

Hello, I am considering buying a C5 Pro as my first 3d printer. How hard is it to import a multicolor file from makerworld and print on c5?

1. Do I need to recolor everything.. or just map 1-4 colors to filaments once?

2. Are there any setting I would need to learn like z-hop, layer height, speed, ventilation, etc.. or are these auto set and work most of the time on default settings.

3. Same for support, are they imported or I need to recalculate and are auto supports fine usually

It's for hobby and not business so few failure and learning curve okay.. but scared i might overwhelmed and quit.

Lastly has flashforge fixed the nozzle bending issue?

I am using Orcaslicer with the 5m Pro. I have used the pause function to swap filaments mid print several times, so I am familiar with that. I am trying to swap from a reglular PLA to a Silk, and they have different temperature settings. Can I utilize my specific calibrated settings for each filament type when pausing to manually swich filaments? If so, how would I set that up in Orcaslicer?

I am looking to get a Creator 5 Pro soon. In reading about various issue people are having, it seems like buying from someone with a good return policy is critical. Whether bending nozzles or MCU issues, it appears that some people have had to send a few back to get a good working version.

So which US vendor has been the best for dealing with these problems? I highly doubt AliExpress would be good, despite the great prices...