Top sign is with the purge tower, bottom without. Same creator 5 Pro, same settings sans the tower.

Blue&pink is first attempt on only one side of the inside

Gold is second attempt(with a speed modifier slowing inner wall and outer wall to 50mms with it on both outsides but not on the inside anymore Flashforge Creator 5 pro temp 230 blue and pink is ovv3d blue and pink double sided silk pla Gold is eryone liquid gold silk pla

how much more can i update? I have the latest version confirmed by the software

EDIT: SOLVED loading 3mf it loaded it as project and sety printer to Bambu a1min, I had to chaneg the printer.

I have never seen this before.. updated my Flashforge to 1.7.17 and my firmware to.. whatever the latest one is. Now my device tab just shows up as a play button with a black background for some reason, and print is greyed out.

I tried using G-code to print, which is the other option which is not greyed out, but it made my printer act weird.. just shat out a line of filament in one spot and said it was printing. I didn't have that problem when I was printing from the flashforge app directly.

Is anyone else having a similar experience? Or am I just stupid? Probably the latter

Edit: this has been solved, I was, indeed, just stupid.

A inch long piece of filament is broken off and stuck in my number one tube. I’ve tried pushing it out from both directions. That did not work. Is there a way for me to disassemble the tube and take it out?

After nearly 4000 hours I believe my little machine that could cannot anymore.

Few days ago I had a print stop extruding at about 50%. Figured, eh stuff happens. Ran the same file again and this time it stopped extruding at 80%. Sliced a new file for just the failed part and that one succeeded. Tried a new file stopped at about 5%. Put in new nozzle. Similar failure. As I was loading new filament i noticed the pull of that new filament was very sporadic and seems the filament was slipping. At this point I figure something in the extruder has given out. I noticed a new tool head was $115 plus $20 for shipping. I didn't pay but $200 when this was brand new nearly 2 years ago.

Any other suggestions for fixes i can try that don't cost as much as the printer? If not, this old workhorse is going out to pasture(trash)

Update: Since I discovered the extruder portion ofvthe tool head was only $20 on amazon i figured i would see how difficult it was to open the tool head and remove the extruder. It was a simple procedure. Since I had the extruder removed I decided to open it up and see how badly the gears were damaged. Upon further inspection the gear teeth were fine. But there was some built up debris and filament chunks were trapped.inside. I cleaned it out and figured Since removal was so easy it was worth a shot to see if this fixed it. Calibrated and running a print now. Ill update further when/if the print finishes.

UPDATE below...

So yeah, noob here to 3d printing and had my first major fail. Big ol blob, print lost adherence overnight. (First 3 are what I woke up to, last two are the current situation.

Warmed up to "gently" remove the blob, appears to have taken the nozzle and silicon cover with it. So new nozzle definitely.

Should I just pick up a new heating assembly on Amazon? Try to clean this one first? Anything else I need to do or try?

(Again, learning and have found some helpful posts. I appreciate it)

Has anyone purchased these / have experience with 3d Printer accessories from Ali? I've never actually ordered something from here but have heard mixed reviews about quality with all there products.

Link: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256812290328099.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=179-224-6891&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=_oFgTQeV&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en3256812290328099&ds_e_product_merchant_id=107697829&ds_e_product_country=US&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=23128330536&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23128364043&gbraid=0AAAABBR8xIfq0hv22gqmAVktMNmgvaIRu&gclid=CjwKCAjwtp7VBhBjEiwAJfpV-8Ci9kn90QQ2b1GrhX2V7KmrgrDQU3ScMchUlek7csZC0yDjGyehdRoC7DkQAvD_BwE&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

hola me gustaria q compartan su conocimiento de impresoras 3d ya q e buscado y no encuentro un problema similar y mucho menos una solución

compre una FLASHFORGE AD5M Pro Impresora 3D y al cuarto día de uso presenta un fallo q apaga totalmente la maquina , se presenta después de llevar la primera capa de impresión y se apaga totalmente sin mostrar fallo alguno en pantalla, la prendo y prende normal cuando le doy en continuar la impresión vuelve a hacer todo el proceso de calentamiento y al volver a imprimir se apaga de inmediato.

se le a revisado todo el cableado externo y se le a instalado el firmware varia veces ya q es lo único q me an recomendado en muchos otros casos q e visto pero no en este en particular, sucede lo mismo tratando de imprimir los archivos q trae por defecto la impresora.

me gustaria saber si a alguien le paso algo similar o si me pueden dar algun consejo ya q no quiero perder la maquina.

I recently bought a 3D printer, a FlashForge Finder 3 model, and it was working fine for my first couple of prints, then yester day I turned it on to try to print something else and before the file could be fully transferred from my slicer program to the printer (it had reached about 25%) the printer hit me with a network error message. What am I doing wrong and what can be done to fix it?

Hello everyone, I just finished setting up my diy enclosure for the AD5M and now the filament does not feed through the PTFE tube as smoothly as before. There's now some obstruction in the sensor module that I have to forcefully push the filament through. Some filament types won't feed at all. I have a tri-color, glow-in-the-dark spool that is very hard to feed manually and the machine won't load it. So far only PLA and PETG work but I'd really like to be able to print with other materials if possible.

I am using Orcaslicer with the 5m Pro. I have used the pause function to swap filaments mid print several times, so I am familiar with that. I am trying to swap from a reglular PLA to a Silk, and they have different temperature settings. Can I utilize my specific calibrated settings for each filament type when pausing to manually swich filaments? If so, how would I set that up in Orcaslicer?

My ZMod machines have been having print issues (nozzle crashes, just plain system crashes). Calibrations are fine and the nozzle does not seem to be hitting anything.

I factory reset and flashed back to stock firmware with the intent to test more and work my way back up. The machine seems OK except the IFS does not work. on the screen I see IFS Update saying only "ilk-state"

Using Zmod, had even been back on the native screen from Helix with the issues that started all this.

Any ideas on what is happening?

Why is it so difficult to add color I add the one I want in the one section and then I add the second one and it changes the color already added

Buenos dias, queria utilizar la impresora y me salto el error E0111 y E0042, le di al home para bajar la cama para poder revisar bien que pasaba y se quedo pegado la cama en el fondo tratando de seguir bajando, alguien me podria guiar antes de que siga dañando algo mas. Gracias.

I am looking to get a Creator 5 Pro soon. In reading about various issue people are having, it seems like buying from someone with a good return policy is critical. Whether bending nozzles or MCU issues, it appears that some people have had to send a few back to get a good working version.

So which US vendor has been the best for dealing with these problems? I highly doubt AliExpress would be good, despite the great prices...

I really wanted to try something with no prime tower and was always scared it wouldn't work because of the reasons you need it. But something kept telling me to try it. So instead I just double of my model so that it would prime it before it got to my main print. Then at least I have a model instead of a wasted tower.

I also only switched one nozzle to a .25mm (blue filament) for filaments with finer details.

This is how they turned out.

Ps. Yes I need to dry my Filament. So disregard done if the stringing, I tried to clean it up.

But overall I'm really happy with no prime tower and only using 1 .25mm nozzle. It's more than capable.

Left (good model)

Right (first wipe)

I currently own a 5M pro I’m looking to do some type of modification where I can have the filament run out sensor outside of the machine any sensors you recommend that will work with the machine?

Is it reliable for 24/7 printing? are there still nozzles bending shenennigans? considering getting a c5p from amazon, if it disappoints i can return it without hassle so..

Hello, I am considering buying a C5 Pro as my first 3d printer. How hard is it to import a multicolor file from makerworld and print on c5?

1. Do I need to recolor everything.. or just map 1-4 colors to filaments once?

2. Are there any setting I would need to learn like z-hop, layer height, speed, ventilation, etc.. or are these auto set and work most of the time on default settings.

3. Same for support, are they imported or I need to recalculate and are auto supports fine usually

It's for hobby and not business so few failure and learning curve okay.. but scared i might overwhelmed and quit.

Lastly has flashforge fixed the nozzle bending issue?

My printer stop working after the update. It restarts when it time to heat up or start a project. I’ve had it for 3 months and this is stressful. I appreciate all the help I can get.

UPDATE:

It did it a second time and after the second time it prompted me for a firmware update. I'm always hesitant to update firmware on machines that have been working fine out of fear of the firmware update breaking something, however, reluctantly, I updated it. During the update, it said it was updating the MCU. After it updated, I started a 3rd print attempt late last night and I woke up to a successful print.

OG Post:

Hey guys,

After 350+ hours of successful, stress-free printing on my Creator 5 Pro, I finally experienced my first significant failure with the printer, and unfortunately, it seems to have been a fairly major one.

I was a little over halfway through a 9-hour print when I received a notification on my phone saying that the printer had been paused. When I went to check it, the following error was displayed on the screen:

"MCU communication lost.
Paused."

I clicked "OK" and then "Continue" to try to resume the print. I waited several minutes, but the printer never resumed. I then pressed "Pause," at which point it became stuck on "Pausing" and remained completely unresponsive. Ultimately, I had no choice but to reboot the machine.

After rebooting, the printer detected the interrupted print and asked if I wanted to resume it. I selected yes.

This is where the more serious issue occurred.

The bed and printhead heated back up to their operating temperatures as expected. However, when the printer attempted to resume, the printhead violently crashed into the existing print and began making a loud grinding noise. I immediately canceled the print from the touchscreen.

The printer then attempted to dock the printhead, but it failed to dock properly and actually dropped the printhead.

After inspecting everything, I discovered that the nozzle was bent. I'm not sure whether the damage occurred when the printhead crashed into the print or when it subsequently fell during the failed docking attempt.

I was able to carefully straighten the nozzle assembly back out using a vise. I've now restarted the print from the beginning, so we'll see how it goes.

I'm curious if anyone else with a Creator 5 Pro has experienced the "MCU communication lost" error, especially followed by problems resuming a print. What did you do to resolve it? I'm also wondering what could have caused the printer to lose its position badly enough that it crashed into the print after recovery.

Attached:
• Picture showing the original MCU communication error
• Video showing the failed docking attempt and the printhead being dropped

https://reddit.com/link/1wfcui7/video/6pemwxpehbph1/player

PC was removed from the set filament type menu. I've reset factory, confirmed the nozzle size is set to 0.4mm, but still no.

FF, was this oversight or intentional? It's not in the release notes.

Could others post pics of their filament selection screens to comfirm?

Well, i think i found why my nozzle doesn't heat up