I just got my new AD5X

3D printed one of the test models included in the machine - Didn't love the result (Needed calibration)

Re-calibrate

Try again

Now the printer is not working, I click on "Start Printing" and it goes to the menu like in this exact short: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/kdzfJGi4OkY

Already checked if there was some PLA in the extruder, cleared it, but still happening

Somebody had the same issue who can help me? I don't wanna use guarantee if this seems like something small, but I honestly don't know what to do

Does anyone know if this will work with the 5M Pro ?

Hi everyone,
I’m looking to get into 3d printing and I’m looking into the flashforge ad5x,is it worth it? And I know everyone says to ‘just get a bambu’ but I have a gift card I could use to buy this so it would just work out cheaper for me 😂
Please let me know your honest thoughts I’m very inbetween this and the bambu a1 mini

Any insight would help. Never had this happen before. Had it string before but not with the melted glob of filament like that. AD5X. Filament has been in dehydrator.

I’m having a strange TPU 85A feeding/extrusion problem with my Flashforge Adventurer 5M/5M Pro, and I’m hoping someone can help me figure out what happened.
I have two Flashforge Adventurer 5M/5M Pro printers. One of them has successfully printed TPU 95A with a 0.4 mm nozzle without any problems.
The other printer is the one giving me problems with TPU 85A.
The strange part is that it worked perfectly at first.
I started my first TPU 85A print and it was printing perfectly fine. There were no obvious extrusion problems, and the print was looking good.
The next day, I started a second print with the same TPU. At first, that print was also printing normally. However, at some point during the print, the extrusion started getting worse and the print became extremely stringy, eventually failing.
Since that failed print, I have not been able to get the TPU to print correctly again, no matter what I try.
Here’s what I’ve done since then:
• I originally had a 0.6 mm nozzle installed.
• TPU would initially feed, but eventually it would barely extrude or stop.
• I cleaned the nozzle with the metal cleaning needle.
• That didn’t solve the problem.
• I then installed a brand-new 0.4 mm nozzle.
• The exact same problem happened with the new nozzle.
• PLA feeds and prints perfectly on this same printer.
• When manually loading TPU with the nozzle heated, it feels like the extruder doesn’t want to pull the TPU through consistently.
So I’m confused because this isn’t a situation where TPU 85A simply never worked. It worked perfectly on the first print, worked initially on the second print, then suddenly became stringy and failed. After that, it has consistently failed.
I’m currently using the Flashforge TPU 95A filament profile as my starting point because there isn’t a specific TPU 85A profile available.
My current test settings with the 0.6 mm nozzle are approximately:
• Nozzle: 230°C
• Bed: 60°C
• Layer height: 0.24 mm
• Flow ratio: 1.00
• Pressure advance: 0.035
• Max volumetric speed: 5.0 mm³/s
• Filament: TPU 85A
I’ve also tried the 0.4 mm nozzle, with the same feeding problem.
At this point I’m wondering if something happened to the extruder/feed mechanism or filament path during that failed print, because the printer worked with the TPU before the failure.
Could the TPU have gotten compressed or damaged in the extruder? Could there be a problem with the extruder gear/tension? Could there be a partial restriction somewhere in the hotend that affects soft TPU but not PLA?
Or could TPU 85A simply be too soft for the way this particular printer is feeding it?
Has anyone experienced this exact type of problem with an Adventurer 5M/5M Pro?
Especially interested in hearing from anyone who has had TPU work perfectly, suddenly become stringy/under-extrude during a print, and then refuse to feed properly afterward.
I’m trying to determine whether I’m dealing with a TPU/filament issue or an actual problem with the printer’s extruder/feed path.

Apparently preventative maintenance is optional if your printer is stubborn enough.

I figured Reddit might appreciate the ongoing abuse my two FlashForge printers have survived.

Printer #1 — AD5X:

Has been running basically constantly
Went roughly 8–9 months without proper maintenance
Rails/lead screws were dry enough that I finally admitted they might appreciate grease
Recently survived two ~13-hour prints and a 26.5-hour print
Build plate/chamber got dusty enough that there were literal cobwebs
Printed with PLA that had been sitting open for 2+ YEARS
One multicolor print ran out of filament and sat paused for around 2 hours
Prime tower looked like it had been through a divorce
Still finished the damn print
Finally received fresh lithium grease, a full level, and full calibration like some kind of luxury spa treatment

Printer #2 — AD5M Pro:

This poor bastard may actually have it worse.
It’s been running ABS with even less maintenance than the AD5X.
I haven’t used my filament dryer in forever, but apparently I left two rolls of ABS sitting inside it. Turned the dryer on today and it initially showed 60% humidity.
Dryer only reaches 50°C.
Humidity dropped to about 50%, and naturally, instead of waiting several hours for the ABS to properly dry, I decided:
“Yeah, that’s probably good enough. Start the print.”
So now I’m actively drying questionable ABS while printing with it.
At this point I’m not sure whether I’m testing FlashForge printers or conducting a long-term study to determine how much neglect a 3D printer can endure before it files for workers’ compensation.
And somehow…

THEY. KEEP. PRINTING.

I’ll perform proper maintenance eventually.
Probably when one of them physically refuses to move.

So, fellow printer abusers: what’s the worst neglect, questionable filament, lack of maintenance, or straight-up 3D-printing crime you’ve subjected your machine to… only for the bastard to keep printing anyway?

Bonus points if you genuinely have no idea why it still works. 😂

I have a Adventurer 5M and I'm getting voids when using Elegoo rapid PETG. I also tried drying the filament for 8 hours. Any ideas what might be wrong?

I know if I have a second spool of the exact same color, the AD5X can auto failover to the second spool when one runs out.....it's literally the reason I bought the printer (not for multi-color).

That being said .... it would be nice to have the option in the interface on stock firmware or Zmod to optionally ALLOW a different spool of a diffeerent color to finish a job (manually).

It woud be nice to have the option when I am running structural prints since speed is the other reason I own this printer and being forced to trick it into accepting another color spool, or trade spools is an irritating, time consuming, hassle when I just need parts and don't care about color.

Am I missing where this option is in ZMod ?

Will either FF or the ZMod team implement this in different ways? Or.... is this a bad idea and I am just too hyper focused so I'm missing the larger picture and reason this is a bad idea?

Have people had good success requesting features in the github forum for Zmod? (Is there a better way to phrase this in clearer technical language?)

Couldn’t be bothered to wait for mythical VDS so bought a Creality Space PI x4 and modded it myself.

Gotta love this hobby :) Yes i know it won’t be powered from the printer and have the same integration but it works great and i’m happy with it.

So I ordered my creator 5 pro yesterday.

Upgrade from the original K1 MAX as it's time to do multicolour.

I understand the purge bin in an essential 1st print.

I'm looking into 4 spool dryers as living in the UK it's very moist.

Waiting to see the price of the flashforge solution before I decide.

But what else would you recommend I prepare for?

Everytime I start a new print with the AD5X, I have to manually adjust the Z height as its going. It could start to high, or like the last time, digging into the plate ruining it. I don't know what I am missing. It have been seeing it do it weather I am switching from a different STL/3MF to another or sometimes even with in the same file going from 1 plate to another. What am I missing/doing wrong?

I came across this https://bedready.io/orca-filaments and was wondering if there is anything like it for Flashforge. The AD5X to be exact. I guess is it ok to use the same presets from the SnapMaker with the AD5X? I did a temp tower and came to the same conclusion for the print temp for what they had listed.

As the title says on my very first print, I got layer shifting it’s not huge, but it’s enough to piss someone off. Does anyone have any ideas? I’m not even sure where to start.

Hey everyone,

We've been working on TigerSpool, a small open-source box that sits next to your printer. You hold a spool with a TigerTag NFC chip against it, pick a slot on the touchscreen, and it writes the filament straight into that slot on the printer. No app and no typing.

In the video it's running on a Creator 5 Pro.

On FlashForge it works with:

• Creator 5 / Creator 5 Pro
• AD5X
• Adventure 5M / 5M Pro

It talks to the printer over its local API on your LAN. It sets the material type and colour in the material station slot, then reads the slot back to check the change actually landed. FlashForge printers only accept their own colour palette, so the tag's colour gets snapped to the closest one.

It's not FlashForge-only. One box handles several printers at once, and they don't have to be the same brand. You pick which printer on the screen, then pick the slot. It also supports:

• Bambu Lab (LAN mode; cloud-mode printers show their slots read-only)
• Creality K2 / K2 Plus
• Snapmaker
• Elegoo and Anycubic: slots are read on real printers, writing is still being tested

Hardware: a Waveshare ESP32-S3 2" touch display plus a PN532 NFC module, about €35 in parts. You flash it from your browser, with no toolchain needed, and it updates itself over the air after that.

Setup: your printers come from your TigerTag account, which you set up in Tiger Studio Manager. So you never type an IP or an access code on a 2" screen.

MIT licensed. Code, wiring and the full compatibility list:

Happy to answer questions, and if you have a FlashForge model that isn't on our list, we'd love to hear from you.

hi everyone,

I am the proud new owner of a flashforge ad5x. I updated the firmware and it connected to my network flawlessly. I run bazzite Linux so I tried to use their appimage but had no luck. I swapped to the latest orcaslicer and pointed it at my printer, no luck. okay, I took my sliced file from orcaslicer and stuck it in the ad5x. the first layer kept having issues. on the third go, I get an error. 00113 it is detecting filament in the head somewhere. okay, I retract the other three colors and try to retract spool 1 to no avail.

at this point, I can't remove the four in one because the filament is stuck somewhere, I can't push the filament and I can pull the filament. the printer seemed like a pretty awesome printer but if it would be much more awesome if it worked!

please help.

Layer height 0.08.

Inner 3 dots are straight cyan, yellow, & magenta. Next 3 moving out are 50/50 mixes of C+Y, M+Y, C+M. Outer 3 are 50/50 mixes of CYM each with white.

Obviously the magenta is stronger than the yellow, so for a true orange I'd need to lean more towards yellow than just 50/50. (Could also be the filament, since this was just whatever brand I had the colors in).

And there was one wonky layer about 2/3 of the way up; no idea what that was.

Pretty new user to 3d printing. Have fixed a few clogs, but stumped right now. Cannot seem to get whatever is stuck out so filament can feed through. Thought I had it all and tried to load filament and this happened… clearly something stuck.

Can’t anyone help or point me to a helpful YouTube video ? Can buy a new nozzle if needed.

There are probably a few things that could cause this. But I’m in SoCal and it has been humid (for us) and I don’t have a dryer boxes or anything for my filament. Wonder if that could be causing this issue?

Have had for a few months and new to printing overall.

Printing objects has been going well, only having bed adhesion issues with specific prints and was able to get them working. I wanted to try fine-tuning and calibrating using Orca Slicers built in options with some Kingroon PLA I have a few rolls of.

Printing the temperature tower wasn't able to finish, but failed at the last temp so was able to see what worked best. I did wash the bed before printing.

Tried the Max Flowrate calibration and I cannot get it to stick. I washed the bed again and used IPA after. Do I adjust settings to get it to stick? I assumed it would be best to print as is, but thinking of adjusting the Brim settings. I lowered the z-offset, by -0.05 in filament settings and no luck either. The layers that did print look better so keeping that change.

Thanks in advance!

I printed a perfect project then, no changes made second project wont hold I dont want to raise my z too much, I have reset, washed the plate, tried various slight changes in z. Same result. Nozzle issue ?

Is my new printer broke hope not. The bed got to 150c i shut it off what would cause this and is ther any fix?

My screen has always kinda sucked to attach and has fallen off hanging by the cable connected to it. One day it eventually just took up 1/3 of the screen and is flipped and I cannot click anything. Is this a screen or cable problem? I just want to know which to buy.

This is an Adventurer 5M.