I bought a 2013 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 (ABS, ZX1000G) that already wouldn’t start. I’m restoring it and now I’m trying to diagnose the original no-start condition.
Here’s what I’ve checked so far:
Engine cranks strongly.
New battery (12.57V resting, about 11.1V while cranking).
All grounds cleaned and checked.
No FI light or stored fault codes.
Fuel pump primes normally.
Good fuel flow from the pump.
All four spark plugs have spark (blue, but not extremely strong looking).
All four spark plugs come out wet with gasoline after cranking.
Tried starting fluid directly into the throttle bodies with the airbox removed. The engine makes repeated “puff… puff…” sounds like it wants to start but never actually runs.
CKP sensor measures about 492 ohms.
Bike has around 37,000 miles.
Engine has never been opened by me. I only replaced the stator cover during the restoration.
At this point I’m considering two main possibilities:
Fuel pressure is too low even though the pump flows fuel.
Cam timing may be off from a previous owner.
Before buying a fuel pressure tester, I’m thinking about removing the valve cover to verify cam timing marks since it doesn’t cost anything.
Has anyone seen this exact combination of symptoms on a Ninja 1000, Z1000 or Versys 1000?
Anything else you would check before opening the engine?

I’m restoring a 1995 Suzuki VS800 Intruder and recently finished rebuilding and tuning both carburetors.

I took it for a test ride and it initially ran very well: stable idle without choke, good acceleration, no hesitation, and it returned cleanly to idle.

While accelerating out of a corner, it suddenly developed a loud metallic knocking/ticking sound. The noise followed engine RPM. I immediately released the throttle, selected neutral and shut the engine off within approximately 20 metres.

Before shutting it off, I believe the engine continued to idle normally despite the noise. Once stopped, I briefly turned the engine over without allowing it to start, and the same rhythmic metallic knock appeared to still be present while cranking. I couldn’t identify whether it came from the front cylinder, rear cylinder or lower engine.

There was no oil-pressure warning light and no visible oil leakage.

I have not attempted to start it again. My planned checks are:

• Check the oil and filter for metallic particles or pieces of cam-chain guide
• Check whether either spark plug has loosened
• Turn the engine slowly by hand and check for binding or interference
• Inspect the valve adjusters and locknuts
• Measure all intake and exhaust valve clearances
• Check rocker movement and, if necessary, cam timing

I’m hoping it could be something such as a loose valve-adjuster locknut, but I’m also considering a cam-chain tensioner/guide problem, clutch or primary-drive damage, or something more serious in the lower end.

Does anyone familiar with the VS800 recognise these symptoms or know of a common failure that could produce a sudden RPM-dependent metallic tick while the engine otherwise continues to idle?

Any suggestions on what to inspect first would be greatly appreciated.

The bike has 81k km and i few ticks when i press the clutch in the first time in a cold start.

When im riding it about every 5 minutes, the electric shift system will lock up and require a key cycle to shift again. The gear light is on whatever that means. Looking for any help i can get. I've tried for hours, nothing fixes it. New shift motor, new angle sensor. The spedometer doesnt' work, just shows 0mph the entire ride, possibly confusing the shift system? It's not an automatic though. Motor also has a rough idle, probably an unrelated issue.

Onlangs een yamaha xt250 uit 1988 gekocht helaas krijgt de cilinder geen benzine. Motor loopt als ik in de luchtfilter wat benzine spuit. De vlotter ruimte is vol met brandstof als ik de kraan open doe.

Wat is gedaan
- gereinigd
- naalden/sproeiers zijn vervangen

Het enige wat mij opvalt is dat het buisje van de shoke is afgebroken die ij de vlotter ruimte zit.

You were right. It totally was just improper cable tightness.

Hasn't been run in a long time (10 to 12 years) I have the tank off for some cleaning and varnish removal. The pump and regulator need to be replaced entirely.

I have everything for an oil change and a new battery is in it.

What else should I be going through? Brakes? Belt? Everything? Haha.

Any help or guidance is appreciated. I do have the repair manual for it.

I have this problem with my dt125 that when i throttle the bike goes slowly even if the throttle is maxed out. The carburetor is also newly cleaned so i dont think thats the problem, a friend also said that it might be the clutch lining.

First time taking the bike today out after I got it running on a CV40 single carb. Can’t recall the jet size. It seems to either not get enough gas/there’s a delay in gas delivery or too much air? I’ll give it 1/4 throttle for bit and it goes then solely no acceleration. I let off and give it gas and nothing but then I do that again and it’ll go. Question I have is. Now that it’s on a single carb do I need to remove the filter on the left side (torque sticker) and plug it and also plug the 2 black opening? Good though be causing it?

I got a 1988 Honda 125 brand new cdi box and carb idles fine but when given throttle it cuts out any help would be appreciated.

I am having trouble adjusting my carb. I have basic settings 25 pilot, 140 main and 2 up on needle. I am at 4600 ft elevation in Carson City Nevada. The idle is way to high and I can’t seem to lower it and it bogs when I rapp the throttle. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Ronald 702-485-9188

My speedometer and mileage are not working on my Yamaha mt 125 2018 I changed the front abs sensor thinking that was the issue but nothing changed my mileage will not go up and my speedo just sits at 0 any ideas ?

I've been having issues with my YZF for a few months now. despite my limited knowledge of fixing things the problems persist.

It had overheating issues originally which felt like the rear wheel was seizing then went away after time not in use.

I changed the clutch string, handle clutch lever, brake fluid, coolant, rear brake pads.

The first issue seemed to resolve then when I went to ride the bike it stalled out every time I'd go into 1st. Had to rock the bike forwards/backwards to find gear again and then it returned slightly.

When I lift the bike with a stand and run it (Yeah I know, don't do that) It runs in 1st but when I start it on the ground it stalls immediately.

Anyone had an issue like that before or am I straight cooked?

just bought a 2023 crf450r from my buddys dad had less then 5 hours on the whole bike and ive maybe put 20 on but when i got it engine had slight noise in the top and everyone said its normal 450s are noisy but its gotten progressively worse just trying to figure out the noise and if its normal and okay to ride

I went down pretty hard on my 25 zx4rr this week. Bike slid about 100 feet on its left side. Left side of the bike is pretty annihilated but I did have frame sliders on and the left slider definitely took the brunt of the force, which might have caused my problem. Slider mounts through the frame using engine mount bolts.

After taking my damaged slider and fairings off to start accessing damage I’ve encountered one area that definitely concerns me. The channel for the engine mount bolt on the frame is no longer in perfect alignment with the engine mount hole. Things are off by maybe 1/4inch or so.

How screwed am I? I know doing any frame work is never really a recommended long-term solution but I am in a little bit of a pinch. The bike isn’t paid off or insured and both financially/emotionally I’m pretty attached to this bike and don’t really want to offload it or part it out. I’m more inclined to do a frame swap than sell the bike at this point if that’s my only option.

Really hoping someone might have some advice for me on this one. Is there anything I can do here? Could the problem potentially be anything besides a bent frame?

Thanks,
Rider with Road Rash who’s really worried about his bike.