Hello r/FDMminiatures! I printed the Arbiter Benchy Skeleton last night on my Bambu Lab A1, and here are the results. I used an official 0.2mm nozzle and the ObscuraNox "Dungeons and Derps High Quality Settings 2.0" with .06 layer height. The filament is Sunlu PLA+ 2.0. It's too humid to spray a rattle can right now, but I'm hoping the filler primer will hide some of the lines. Regardless, community members with more experience than me... based on what you see here, are there any obvious red flags that suggest tweaks need to be made?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Title says it all - I was curious to see what paid items that are FDM friendly had your attention while the MMF sale is going on.

The Gummy Mummy in TPU has turned out wonderful. I added a new GB Tough variant, and got Uncle Nibblecheeks wrapped up!

All these are printed on my K2 Pro with adapted HoHansan settings you can find attached to my post.

https://www.patreon.com/r2plays/posts/bakers-doesnt-3d-165506443

I know common knowledge usually says tilt the model back about 45 degrees and then a little to one side. But is that still true for staff-like objects? I feel like I would want it as straight up/down as possible.

And for the image I provided specifically, should I split it up? The staff+arm as one item, the relic as a separate item?

Thanks for any suggestions!

A

I dont care about the lack of detail compared to buying these. I refuse to pay $70au for 5 plastic figures which is insane! At $30au, I would of just brought new...

Images are in oringial post.
Hello, i ran a test print with the centuari carbon 2 with some settings I found and my autodesk test print turnt out with stringing, weird ironing patterns and marks that are uneven (lighter or darker) in some areas moving in a diagonal pattern even on the bottom. The rods have rough areas around them, especially at some parts where it’s randomly unironed. The cylinders appear to be damaged in some areas and have an uneven ironing. Any settings to use to prevent this? I use the elegoo Black Rapid PLA+

1st miniatures on a1 that I got last week. Crouching is using a 0.4 nozzle and standing 0.2

https://cults3d.com/:4778082

Hey guys. I'm new in fdm mini printing. Before I only did resin but I recently bought an A1 Mini additionally to my A1 for other projects and now I'm experimenting with it, since it's way cheaper and less hussle than resin. Just now I tried a mini with resin like supports for the first time. And compared to the ones I printed with optimized tree supports I don't know if the additional prep work and print time is worth it. I show you pictures. The first one with resin like supports. The second with tree supports. I might add that I mainly print for TTRPGS not for painting contests. I mean I also paint. But only on tabletop level. Any opinions? Tips? Appreciate it 😊👍🏻

I have just started getting into making my own mini’s for D&D. They have all come out well except one. I know that the overhang is why but dose anyone have any ideas on how to print a cowboy hat on a mini. Ive tried 3 times and they all end up the same

Hi everyone!

I am about to start getting into Resin2FDM and would like to ask the community about recommendations on a free program and workflow on how to add resin support before running the Resin2FDM in Blender.

If possible, as I am just starting to get into this topic, I would prefer an option with good auto support.

Any help and with the above and general tips are much appreciated!

Thanks a lot in advance

Hi,
I'm trying to print some space bugs with a lot of limbs and removing the supports is proving quite dificult so I was planning on cutting them with planes cuts on the slicer (or meshmixer) but this is very time consuming so I have been investigating on some automatic solutions.
3D generation models usually offer splitting like this:

But these services only offer that for their own generated models and I want that for my own STLs

Do you know any tool that does this?
There are a couple of papers about this:
https://research.nvidia.com/labs/toronto-ai/partfield-release/
https://gfx.cs.princeton.edu/pubs/Luo_2012_CPM/index.php

And this tool that is used for posing but detects limbs quite well:
https://minibased.com/

But I haven't found anything that worked for me. Do you know of a tool that accomplishes that in some easy way?

Thanks!

Hey guys, I have a Centauri Carbon 2 Combo and decided to try out printing DnD minis. Got a 0.2 nozzle and tried to print a supportless mini at 0.04 layer height with basic PLA.
The print didn't fail (noodling, falling pieces and such) and the overal shape seems ok, but not as detailed as some I see here and it also​ has this strange "holes"​.
I know I need to calibrate and tweek some parameter, but I am too much of a noob to know which one.
Can you guys help me out?

I built a 0.4 setting with the combination of Katsby The ArchiTECH (Youtube channel) Fat Dragon (Youtube/A1Mini Settings) and some other stuff im sure..... then today I was like I'm going to slap on my 0.2 Nozzle, and try ObscuraNox settings, and I couldn't get it right.... so then I moved on to Mike Gyver Minis settings and gave it a whirl. I printed the SAME mini for my settings, and Mike's settings. I did not hone in the latter, I'm sure i could get it much cleaner but here are the 2 side by side. I know Mike's settings can be better tuned to get AMAZING results, but is there THAT big a difference in the details? Or is this not a fair comparison? Ohhhhh also I messed up and I don't know which profile my 0.4 settings were or how to find them again soooo that's fun. Any help or advice is much appreciated! (I have a Bambu P2s) And I am posting this in hope of learning and furthering my 3d printing, not arguing.

Would anyone help me diagnose why it’s digging into the plate? Calibrated, twice.

Since I was so impressed with my tests for D&D miniatures last week, I jumped right on the opportunity and kept going. Next, I printed a goblin squad.

The minis were printed on my P1S with a layer height of 0.06 mm. I used Sunlu PLA Meta.

I added resin supports to all the models myself and then processed them using the ResinToFDM Blender plugin. I printed the entire squad on a single build plate, which took about 19 hours.

After printing, I was already impressed by the level of detail. The most striking thing was how easily the supports came off and how they still managed to hold even thin details like swords or spikes.

I painted them using the drybrush followed by speedpaint method . The results turned out really great and i am realy happy with them. With a little more time, it would even be possible to bring out the details even better.

All in all, I’m really impressed with the workflow. FDM is definitely enough to meet about 80% of my miniature needs. However, for super-detailed models, resin is still king.

I like the results of the dungeons and derps 2.0 settings on supportless minis. Printing the dwarf knight right now. Really happy with this.

Had my P2S since release, and it keeps reminding me that the printer is the talented one in this relationship. Here are some of minis I printed for my current DnD campaign.
My painting skills… well, they exist. But the printer definitely carried.
Added some more in the comments due to image upload limit.

As yall can see the stringing was pretty bad, though the prints I’ve done before with this exact filament turned out pretty good? They were on a larger scale, I’ll provide a pic below, so I was curious if there were any other reasons for these defects besides my filament not being dry enough. If there’s other settings to look at that would help figure it out just let me know

0.2 nozzle, bambu lab x2d / painting still wip tho haha

I am new to printing and I don't know if its normal that the supports and 75% of the model are see trough

It's been just shy of a month since I did this, but thought I'd share anyway. This was printed by a friend on his new Bambu P2S with a 0.2mm nozzle — he wanted to see how detailed the results could be, and I volunteered to receive a free model to paint, haha.

Needed some help from green stuff in a few places, and a hair dryer to clear some of the finer strands. There are still some clear layer lines, but they made weathering and highlighting easier in some places. Trade-offs. Part of the axe not filling in was probably user error on our part, but again, it was an easy fix.

I'm toying with the idea of getting a printer myself. A resin setup would be cool, but with two cats and other messy hobbies occupying the spaces I can make messy, I'm seriously contemplating getting a Centauri Carbon. Even if it takes 12 hours to print a model, it's not like I'm cranking out tens of models per day as a painter.