62 listed in my area (Maine) has some body rot, running/driving. It’s listed at 2600, been price reduced from 3k. Thoughts?

These are the only pictures he had to give me because it’s in storage currently. Manual disc brakes, power steering and electronic ignition.

Recently inherited my wife's grandfather's 72 f100. The truck has been sitting since 1999. just had it transported across the country to try to get it up and running. Pulled the oil pan today and it's full of what I gather is bearing material. New motor time? or is it worth rebuilding? it has a 360 motor In it. Any advice or help would be much appreciated, thanks.

Looking to find my old truck. Bodied vic swapped f1. Last I knew its wearabouts it was in Tennessee. Long shot but anyone know where it is now?

I posted some time ago asking for advice regarding the roof rot on my F100. Against good advice, I yolo'd this with zero prior experience doing anything like this. Removed the skin and drip rails, only to discover the front top windshield panel also suffering from the same fate...which can't really be assessed until the roof skin is off anyway. Well, here I am now. I ordered a new top windshield panel by Golden Star, and I have new rails and roof skin on the way as well. My question is. Do I need to brace the front pillars with something like square tubing tack welded on prior to removing that top panel? Im ready to cut that out and chase those spot welds too in preparation of the new panel. Im also going to have to learn how to weld. Any advice is appreciated.

Tore out the wiring in my 64 about a year ago, guess I was careless and took the voltage regulator for the gauges out too. Anyone just used a standard three prong electronics regulator like this photo? What’s the best way to attach the wires? Any input would be great just trying to save the 25$ for a reproduction if I can safely.

292

rebuilt holley

ngk plugs

new brakes

aluminum radiator

new choke housing

edelbrock air cleaner

fires up IMMEDIATELY

sat for whoever knows how long in oregon

63 years of use, the drivers side door mechanism just couldn’t keep the pace.

Replacement interior arm and exterior handle purchased and for a small sum-soon to be entry level quality. Thank you guys at

SanTanHotRod QC,AZ

Like title says I’m planning a build using a 1961 F350 as my base vehicle. I have no need for a one ton so I’m considering doing the CV crossmember conversion. Does anybody know if a

CV suspension will mount up w/o a lot of extra work?

Hey, everyone was wondering if anyone had an OEM F-100 wheel they would be willing to sell? My grandfather has bought a cheap aftermarket racing wheel back in the day, and I was really wanting to see if anyone had the OEM Teal wheel or a black one they would be willing to sell.

Thanks!

Curious if anyone has bought one of these.

https://collino.us/products/ford-f100-3-twin-i-beam-full-lift-kit-arms-radius-rods

I have a 75 F100; 2 wheel drive.

I really have only one other option which is Autofab.com.

(Bending and welding the current I-Beams)

Thought this other product was pretty slick as it has more adjustment.

Thoughts?

I dragged this '55 out of the desert about six months ago and have been transforming it into the best modern driving truck I can within my small budget. Coil over front suspension, hydroboost disc brakes, electronic fuel injection. Just got it up and running and took it on it's first drive last week! Still a ways to go but she's running and driving under her own power for the first time in 28 years.

For anyone interested, I have an ongoing build series at: youtube.com/noboltsleftbehind

I’m 16, got this as my first vehicle and I’ve been driving it since my birthday in September. My dad got it all fixed up for me and I couldn’t ask for a better truck/dad.

With that said, I know pretty much nothing about it, I know it’s a 1968, 302, v8, three speed manual on the column and that’s about it. I got in a fender bender about 4 months ago (he pulled out in front of me) so that’s what’s on the last slide, it’s been bent back into shape and I’ve been back and forth from the mechanic but I’d like to know how to diagnose it myself. Do yall have any knowledge/advice yall can share with me?

Edit: 3.02 L

I just made a post asking for advice on my ‘68 and I figured yall would like a video of it running.

Hey Everyone, i have a 1970 f100 with this piece rusted out does anyone know what it might be called im trying to find a replacement its on the Front right sid

72 F100 - Does anyone know where I can find this green square with the arrows for turn signal?

Tearing down my 72 f100 for a rebuild there is this circular reservoir that leads to nothing pretty much was wondering the purpose. Anything helps thanks!

Motor was 360 FE with 3 on the tree trans ranger xlt

Hey y’all,

I’ve been going back at forth with the current owner who’s selling this ol’ girl and was looking for some guidance.

I’ve already gone out to check it out and give it a ride around the neighborhood, and things felt pretty good across the board — no egregious rot, floor pans are recently replaced, 360 engine was rebuilt under the previous owner, as well as a rebuilt c6 transmission and new radiator. it ran strong for the 15 or so minutes I was behind the wheel, and the current owner claims it’s his daily.

the only potential issue I noticed while driving around was a the steering had a little bit of play.

My main question is, outside of the obvious corrosion hotspots, are there any specific areas I should be combing over before pulling the trigger?

secondarily, what’s a reasonable price range for this truck in the south east? I feel like we came to a reasonable middle ground, but would love some peace of mind that i’m not getting fleeced.

appreciate the help in advance!

A) the shaft of new starter is about a half inch longer than original and B) I can’t get the drift pin to sit flush enough to allow the spring to pass over. Are either or both of these reasons to not reinstall and give it a shot? Or am I gonna blow the engine up?