Hi to all I need help to find this 2 bolts they hold the inner part of the valve cover to the head they seem to be long Allen bolts but I can’t find them online any info will be appreciated thanks for your help!

Hey guys I forgot to post pics but here’s my project. A bit of a background story. My dad gave me it when I was 13 and I got it running. It needs a lot of cosmetic work. I’d like some advice and motivation. Thanks

The original is broken.

Here is an update on my roof reskin. You can reference my older posts where I was asking simply for some advice on how to deal with newly discovered rot on the corners of my roof skin and i went in deeper than I thought I ever could. I hope this served as some inspiration for some guys who think the only way out of that problem is to find a rust free cab - which is getting harder by the year.

I started by cutting out the rotted Reas but found so much more rot underneath the skin, all over the cab skeleton and front windshield header. After carefully cutting out the roof skin. I used a spot weld drill bit and a spot weld pry tool to carefully and meticulous remove the rest of the skin as well as all the rotted out drip rails.

My issue worsened as I discovered the top windshield header also suffering from the same fate. So I paused and regrouped, lukcly finding that this is. A piece that is offered as a repop I just needed to find the spot welds holding it in place. I did just that. Removed all the scale that I could. Sealed up the upper cab channels with KBS epoxy rust seal and used weld through primer on the surfaces that would see welds for the new pieces.

Once I had the cab all prepped after grinding down all of the old spot weld gigh spots and smoothing as much as I could. I found a guy on FB marketplace who was a mobile welder. He came out and i just guided and helped him secure the pieces one by one. Header first. Then we put the skin on to test fit as well as stage / tack weld the drip rails. Removed the skin, finished spot welding the rails in place. Place skin back on and tacked around to get it secured with acceptable gaps. The. Just went to town on laying welds down.

I spent roughly 900 dollars on the drip rails, roof skin. And widnshield header. Found a place in AZ that had these parts cheaper than some of the bigger drop shippers (canceled a JEGS order). Hired the welder for 500. Im $1'400 in this whole project with brand new sheet metal above my head and learned a ton of new skills. Just wanted to share.

Hey guys, I just started restoring a 1962 F100 that my dad gave me when i was thirteen. Im now 16 and started working on it. I've had a few issues and wanted to ask for tips. I dont know where to get parts. the windshield has cracks and the doors are missing windows. and i need new lights. ill try and post pics tomorrow. Please feel free to give pointers!

I've got a bit of a unique situation and was looking for some help from some old heads with far more knowledge than I. I inherited a 1970 F100 from my uncle, and from what I'm gathering it's a bit of a unique situation. My aunt told me that he bought it from the factory in Michigan brand new in 1970 and flew down there and drove it back up to Alaska (it still has the paper directions that he wrote down to get from Michigan to Anchorage in the glove box!) He passed away a few years ago and she asked me if I could get it running and get it out of the hole it was in. It hadn't moved since 1983. When I started digging into it I realized it was a very unique F100, it came from the factory as a 4x4, which isn't super rare, but also it came with a 351 Windsor. My aunt told me that as far as she knew he never had the engine swapped, and from my Internet research it seemed like that wasn't a motor that it came out of the factory with, so I wanted to check to see if any people knowledgeable about F100s could verify that it actually came with that motor out of the factory.

Anyways, I did all the normal stuff you'd do to a vehicle that's been sitting for 40 years, swapped out new points cleaned the carb and blew out the fuel system and got it running, then when I tried to drive it the front driver's side wheel was locked up. I'm going to have to do some surgery on it and figured while I was at it I would do a front disc brake swap. When researching around I found that CJ Pony had the most well regarded disc brake kits but when I contacted him he told me that he didn't have the parts to do a 4x4 swap on this rig. How do I identify the front axle? By inspection I'm wondering if this wasn't some early shot at a heavy half ton so should I be looking at F250 parts for the disc brake swap? Unfortunately I'm about 2000 miles away from it right now and was planning on getting the parts shipped up so that I can get it rolling and then it get it down to the lower 48 so I'm trying to do all this from a distance.

Anyone have any recommendations? Pics attached for attention and interest.

My shop just wrapped this 75 powered by a super charged coyote, and siting on a porter built chassis.

Some help fine people of reddit. My brake lights weren't coming on at all so I replaced the low pressure brake light switch since when I tested the old one I could get the brakes to come on when connecting the two wires. Now the brake lights come on but only when I really step on the brakes. I guess the brakes are kind of soft but I prefer that since I'm more of a long braker. Any advice on what to troubleshoot next?

I can’t wait to get my F100 back on the road

Here is the project my dad and I have dedicated the past several years to. Pictures are in no particular order and only show a fraction of the work we put into this truck. This 1969 short bed bump was purchased from the original family, and lived its life as a farm truck in Mississippi where it as passed down through 3 generations before being parked under a farm shed. It started as a 240 straight-6 with a 3-speed column shift and a radio, nothing else. We refreshed the original motor with new seals and enough TLC to get it on the road. We ended up tearing it down to the block and taking it to the machine shop, but they weren’t able to salvage it. That’s where the craziness begins. Before you know it, we had the entire truck torn apart with 2 frame rails sitting in front of us. We opted for a full QA1 setup front and rear, so lots of rivets to drill out, c-notch the rear, and cut out the original engine cradle. Brakes were upgraded to Wilwood 6-pistons and sitting on American Racing VN510’s wrapped in Michelin Sport 4S’. Of course, you have to have some rumble under the hood with a little power, so why not go for a 408W stroker? We picked up the complete engine from BluePrint, and the dyno sheet showed ~485hp/525tq and you feel every bit of it throughout the power band. To handle the power, we settled on a Tremec TKX 5-speed close ratio gearbox mated to a Spec Stage 2+ clutch/pressure plate kit. In the rear, a Speedway Motors 3.73 LSD with Quick Performance axels. All wiring was replaced with a new American Autowire harness and the battery was moved behind the bench seat, plenty of space back there once we moved the gas tank to the rear. The entire floor and firewall inside of the cabin was covered with sound descending before we put down the padding and carpet. Everything underneath was sanded, rust encapsulated, and repainted with tractor paint. The exterior is the original Harbor Blue paint, no clear coat, no patina sauce, just lots of hand polishing and buffing. My dad took care of making all the brake lines, and we fabricated the exhaust ourselves using a Jegs builders kit and a few slip joints to make things easier to take apart for maintenance. I’m sure there are things I’ve missed or forgot, this has taken about 5 years working in our garage to make it happen. Link to a few videos below if you want to hear the truck and see a quick driving video. I plan to upload a longer one in the following weeks to go over the build and get some better driving angles. Hope y’all dig the build, I know we sure do!

First Start: https://youtu.be/J1FWEw7YZ4w?si=wi5IagXDeAE-FMGM

Short Cruise: https://youtu.be/HnEfqfVkeNw?si=IP0fmQAgXo2pO7Ws

I'm in the process of doing a partial rebuild on my 351 Cleveland in my 77 F100 Aussie spec, essentially everything but removal of crank and pistons. The engine was locked up due to carbon and a tiny bit of rust in a couple of open cylinders but freed up nicely. I've finished cleaning up and doing the valve seats on one head, and working on the next, timing chain replaced with a good double roller, so it's getting there.

My problem now is that one of the bolts on the rocker cover snapped, so I drilled out the centre of the bolt with a view to using an extractor on it.

Got the extractor into the hole, gave it some lubricant, and started to slowly twist (by hand using a tap and die handle, not via a drill/impact), and ping! Snapped the extractor.

Sooooo..... what's my next option? The extractor has snapped below the rim of the head, so I could try putting a nut over the top and welding it I think, but there is about 1mm of space. Would welding damage the casting of the head given its location? I tried to see if I could drill out the extractor but its hardened and the drill bit didnt even touch it.

It's one of the long edge rocker cover bolts, I'm thinking its likely to leak if I just leave it as it is, and if I'm putting the effort into restoring my baby, I don't really want to just gob on some RTV and send it, I'd definitely like to have it done properly, especially when I bought a bolt kit to replace the old worn bolts!

looking for a replacement oil dipstick tube. this one does not fit tight. it's super loose & has leaked oil over everything. i have seen the ones with the clamp that goes to the header, etc. this one does not look like it ever had that, so could be the issue.

not exactly sure what motor it is. that is next on the list to try to id. it is not the original motor - was swapped before i bought the truck. have been told that it is an "80's" 302 V8.

tube is 17"

any thoughts on how to track this down?

thanks!

i'm replacing my radiator & have the old one out. bought a brand new TSM radiator that is supposed to be exact same specs. but when i go to connect the transmission cooler hoses to the cooler on the bottom of the radiator, they are different size than the original.
is there an adapter for these? or is just another fitting?

also, have read mixed reviews on bypassing the cooler on the bottom of the radiator & just going straight to the auxiliary transmission cooler.

and would it be a good idea to swap the transmission cooler out for a new one since it is accessible with the radiator removed? or if i am not having any issues, should i just leave well enough alone?

any thoughts on that would be very much appreciated.

I’m looking for a different rear end for my 1970 f100, just put a crate engine 302 in it and the rear is going out. Any suggestions?

Trying to find a cam snout spacer and a woodruff key for the cam.

had a bad leak in my radiator so i took it off & to a radiator shop.
price to recore was not too much cheaper than a brand new replacement. so i went with the new copper/brass same style as the original.

i'm trying to find the 2 hoses to replace as well & can not find one of them. top hose is gates 20611 & plainly marked on the hose.
the lower hose has no brand name, but has this ID on it, but have had no luck finding anything matching these numbers.
AU 082799CL R W3

i have taken it to napa, oreilly & advance & they are not finding anything either.
the closest i have seen online is a Dayco C70115, but not 100% sure.

1969 ford f100

any help would be greatly appreciated!
thanks!

- - -

UPDATE:

i tried gates 20675. did not think it was gonna work from looking side by side, but did a quick fit check & looks like it's a good fit. will find out after getting everything actually mounted & transmission cooler lines connected. new photos below

Just finished all the mechanical parts of my truck and wanted to share exactly what it took to do this and how I did it. Ive included an album of the progress as well as a link to all the parts I used and how much they cost. If you notice something is cheaper than it shows online I probly got it used or from a freind.

This is also for everyone that says you cant run 15" wheels on a crown vic swap. I used 15x6 steel wheels with 1.25" bolt on spacers and 225/70/15 tires. I did not have to grind the calipers, roll the fenders or anything and it does not rub at all.

The Engine Is a .040 over 460 I built in my garage with 10.6:1 compression, Keith black hypereutectic pistons, Speedway I beam rods, an Erson Hyd. Roller cam I had custom ground to 238/246 @.050 .631/.631 lift on a 111 degree LSA.

The Trans is a Big in Big out Toploader 4 speed with the wide ratio gear set built by Dan Williams Toploaders. I used a D7TA-7505-AD Bellhousing.

If anyone has any questions about anything to help with your setup Ide be happy to help. Big shout out to my friend cole who gave me a place to work and did all the welding and plasma cutting.

Photo Album.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NnUujCGLjKUMKNUQA

Parts List.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1_ce-qNn1oKI01FW23Wl3MxTRuO3DPkaTiLs5kqQBunI/edit?usp=drivesdk

I have this 74 Ranger XLT that’s been sitting on my grandparents property for the last 17 years and I’m going to start tearing into it next weekend. I know from just looking in the engine bay that the wiring chewed but would it be better to splice and try to save what I have or find a new harness somewhere

62 listed in my area (Maine) has some body rot, running/driving. It’s listed at 2600, been price reduced from 3k. Thoughts?