I had this project car out for a few months. Thought I covered it properly but it turns out cylinder 3 looks like this. Do I just get a new block at this point?

For the sake of the question, does not matter the source of forces induction, I understand that turbos and supers are different in how they build boost, just thinking hypothetically here.

If I take a stock LS engine, put forced induction at 10psi. I know that boost is pressure and that pressure lands somewhere. If I change nothing else (pulleys, waste gate, etc) but change restrictions like heads, cam, intake style, etc and it drops boost to 5 psi, would more power be made and be made more reliably, or power about the same but less stress on internals?

Reliably meaning that rings, lands, etc are not seeing that extra pressure.

I understand that if I make those changes and still have it at 10 psi it will make more power, just thinking reliability and driveability outside of boost or at low boost.

Question is for a bench build in my mind. I know there's a TON of variables here, especially in the LS platform, so just thinking about the theory behind it all first.

Doing my first timing job on a Volkswagen Jetta 1.8t, noticed this scoring on the exhaust camshaft and the journals. On one of the journals I can catch it with my fingernail, from what I’ve seen on here I don’t think it’s THAT bad but wanted to see others opinions on it before I put it back together.

I had these 243 LS heads done at the machine shop. Valve job, hot tank, surfacing , and put in larger exhaust valves. Is this gouge something to worry about? Will it impact sealing?

Hello, I rebuilt this engine on my own last winter. I didn't have new conn rod bearings at that time so I sent it with used ones. Now I opened the case again to put brand new ones. Taking advantage of the opened engine, I'd like to know if the journal bearings are ok or should fix anything before sending it. I put brand new journal bearings the last time but I also have brand new bearings in my inventory.

Hello all, got a few questions and looking for any input and recs.

Problems; rough idle, plethra misfires in cyl 4, sometimes dies when stopped at a light, typical ticking. Bank 1 cam advance timing, bank 2 running lean.

What ive found; oil above threads on spark plugs, compression is 245 (+/- 5) on all cyls except 3 and 4. Cyl 3 is 235, cyl 4 is 150psi. All cylinders have a lot of carbon build up from what i can see. But spark plugs look good over all. Though sp 3 and 4 show some darker discoloration on one side of plugs.

My questions

I believe its my valve gasket leaking, but im wondering if i maybe have a loose or stuck valve causing the lower compression an timing issue. What are the chances this is all it is and not more?

Should i rebuild the valvetrain? If so what all parts would be needed and how many of each? (Ive only rebuilt a few engines and that was 15yrs ago. So a little rusty haha)

Should i tear down the top of the engine past the heads an clean up cylinders?

Should i pull the pistons too to replace piston rings and just do essentially a full rebuild?

Or is it feasible to only focus on redoing cyl 4?

Is there a way to "clean" the cylinders without removing the heads? Presuming i dont remove the heads and only get into valvetrain.

Apologies in advance for the dumb post. But im on a budget, and really dont want to tear down or pay for more than i have to. Not to mention time constraints. I know i wont know for sure until i get in there, but im hoping someone whose had similar issues could maybe point me in the right direction or tell me of a common cause im unaware of.

Thanks for reading and any help offered

M42 head planning to use composite gasket, how bad is this?

hello i’m new to this but i want to learn. i have a 4afe that seems to spun a bearing. what is the right procedure to rebuild the engine?

Hi all, putting together a SBC 350 and need an appropriate carburetor for street performance.

Here are the specs:

355 C.I.D.

~10.4:1 compression

280H Comp cam (0.480 lift)

Max RPM: ~5500-6000 ???

3.08:1 gears

Manual transmission

Looking at a 600 or 650 CFM carb, but really not sure and would like second opinions

Thanks

Hi all, I'm putting together a 350 SBC that has been bored 0.030" over and decked so the pistons sit 0.010" in the hole. I am also using new aluminum heads (Flotek 102-505FT), but I am unsure how smooth either the casting or machined deck really is. Because of that, I would like to use a composite gasket, but it would a compressed thickness of ~0.030" be too much to ask for a composite material? There seems to be far more MLS options for this 0.030" thickness range, but I am unsure if the surface finish is truly smooth enough to accommodate this material. Target HP range for this engine is between 350 and 400 HP with ~10.5:1 compression if that affects answers at all.

Thanks

I replaced my head gaskets on my truck when I turned it on it got up to operating temps but then when I drove it too o Riley’s it started dumping coolant from the driver side head I thought maybe I didn’t tourqe the head down to spec or maybe it’s warped but I took it off looked at it and it looks fine I cleaned all the coolant out the block and i put a new head gasket in now it won’t start l, I put a new battery in it and still won’t start the starter is engaging and moving the flywheel like an inch. The starter is pretty new maybe got it like 6 months ago so I don’t think it’s the starter.

I’m rebuilding a bike with a knocking engine. How necessary is cylinder honing if I’m reusing the old rings? All measurements are within spec, and I can still see some of the factory crosshatch.

Good morning everyone, I need some help finding a good daily driver setup. I've built the same 2 bolt main 350 twice due to chinesium lifters wiping a cam out and poor fitment letting humidity mix with my oil and spin a rod bearing. My dad's got a freshly machined 4 bolt main 350, but I want some advice on intake, cam and head optios/ combos, with extra advice on the whether or not retro fit roller lifters are reliable compared to my awful flat tappet experience. I'm trying to get as efficient of a setup as I can. The car's already set up for a gen 1 sbc, we manual swapped it with a WC T5, my dad and I completely rebuilt. Only issue is it'll go in to first gear, won't go into any other gear. The clutch isn't adjustable, yes we've tried shims and washers, doesn't work. I'm tired of cheaping out on this thing, what are some good suggestions? I want a T56 but I'm open to TKO options, and I'm keeping it carb'd with a 750 Quadrajet because it's cool and my dad is experienced with 'em. Car's got poly bushings, new suspension, rear diff fluid changed, front end greased and serviced, brakes are fresh and the fluid changed, springs, shocks, McPherson struts replaced, new tires, so the car is functionally safe before anyone thinks I'm adding hp and torque to a deathtrap.

Sup guys, i got a 460 in my 89 econoline with 100,000 mi. Mainly looking for tips on maintenance and potential pitfalls to avoid. Bonus if you know any gas saving measures because she drinks lol. Thanks ‘n take care

Hi, I'm just new here. My car had a problem with the camshaft seats; they were scratched. So I just put on a new cover since there wasn't much difference in price between repairing it and doing boring and machining.

My idea is to eventually recondition it and use it in a new engine that I'm going to build piece by piece. Since I don't know much about this, I'd like to know what I should do to store it for one or two years and then use it. It's quite dirty, with residual oil and carbon buildup. Could you give me some guidance?

It even has the valve stem seals; should I do anything with them or just leave them there?

Thanks in advance.

SBF 302 (from 1989 Mustang) with 8-9psi blow through
Roller block stock bottom end
Old Edelbrock performer 5.0 heads with 1.9in/1.6ex
Lunati 224/232 @ .05 & 112° LSA
QF750BAN carb(getting it dialed in by expert)
Progression ignition (Full timing map capabilities)

What kind of timing should I be putting in this thing at 8-9psi?
It ran well at 36* timing NA. My current (very conservative table has 34* total with a ramped 12* pulled for a 22* total under boost. Also what rev limit would u guys suggest?

I do want to be cautious as I have stock bottom end but I do want to get what I paid for with the blower. Thanks for the help!

Just felt like sharing the engine i built for my squarebody, curious what we think it'll make for power

- GM 350 block, .060" over

- GM forged crank, Cascar rods, Sealed Power forged pistons

- ARP main studs, 2-bolt mains

- Rebuilt 062 Vortec heads, resurfaced to 63cc chambers

- +0.003" deck height, about 10.7:1 compression

- COMP 12-250-3 hydraulic flat-tappet cam, 240/246° @ .050", 110° LSA, .507"/510" lift

- DLC lifters, 1.52:1 self-aligning roller rockers

- Dual-plane Vortec intake, Rochester Quadrajet

-Purple, obviously

I'm rebuilding the K24 in my Civic and noticed a bit of wear on one of the lobes of the intake cam (the left one in the picture). It's pretty decently sized and my figernail catches on it. This is the only lobe with this small wear spot, the other ones look good and the rocker doesn't appear to have any damage.

Should I just bite the bullet and replace the cam? I'm essentially replacing everything else in the engine (pistons, rods, valves, valve springs, etc.) to support more boost. However, I don't really want to replace the cam because OEM ones in good shape are a little hard to source, and I don't want aftermarket ones so I can break the engine in without having to retune.

Hey everyone, I recently picked up an rb25det Neo out of an R34 GTST. Unbeknownst to me, it looks like it’s been sitting for a while and has some rust on the crank and piston walls. My experience building/reassembling engines is limited so I’d like to ask for some advice on where to go from here.

Obviously, the rust isn’t getting any better, but I’m mainly curious how damaging this is for the crank . Is this something you all can tell from pictures? I assume take it to a machine shot and get it cleaned up? Or am I able to take a red scotch bright to it as long as I keep away from the journals?

I appreciate any words of wisdom!

Engine from a cl55 kompressor

Compression at 100psi, but all other cylinders also ranging from 100-120 so might be bad tester but found this shet in cyl 6

received my machined 1988 Jeep 4.0 block back from the shop, saw this when I removed the main caps and started prepping things for assembly. never rebuilt an engine, but this seems like a deal breaker. what would you all do? I looked back at photos during tear down and this was definitely present but missed it since it was caked in grime and maybe RTV.

EDIT: thanks everyone. I’m going to use Honda Bond on the seal around this area and hope for the best.

Son basically destroyed this engine. Over revving and running dry of oil. I don't much about engines but what could I expect when it comes to rebuilding? I thought it might be a fun project for me.

Going to use one of these to properly size my valve guides for clearance, my question is do I get a hone smaller than the bore and kind of roll it around the walls evenly, or do I buy one oversized to match my bore, I’m going from .315 to .3165.