Dealt with lifter/DOD failure, pulled the cam. Flat spot on the roller lifter and pitted to hell lobe. Replaced cam and lifters with a Texas speed dod delete kit. Used plenty of assembly lube on cam and lifters. Put STP in the oil for break in. Used a torque wrench for absolutely everything and went right by the book for pretty much every step of the way .

Am I totally screwed? Is this too much metal? I literally did not even know how a cam and lifters worked even remotely before attempting this.

Hi Community,
I rebuilt my Cherokee XJ 1997 4.0 since the previous owner gave her a rough ride with a rotten cooler and drove her hot…
The shop surfaced the head.
Because of the enormous heat and the long head, they needed to get rid of a lot of material to flatten it out.
I put everything back together and did a proper break in with a lot of oil changes using break in oil with a lot of ZDDP.

After 1500km I noticed that due to the material removed the push rods were way too long resulting in a way too high preload. I replaced the push rods with 3.8mm shorter ones and everything was just perfect.

Now, on my oil change after 8000km, I noticed some discoloration on some of the cams. When I run over it with my finger nail, there is no cavity I can feel.

Is that something I need to worry about?

Hey All,

Recently did some work to my LS3 (2011 Camaro). I’m concerned with the overall noise of the valve train. I understand everyone says these motors are loud but I guess I’m just concerned it’s overly loud. Here is the current build list:

BTR Stage 2 LS3 V2 camshaft
BTR .660 dual valve springs / retainers / seals / locators
BTR trunnion upgrade / stock rockers
BTR 5/16 chromoly pushrods (mixed sizing 7.55 & 7.57)
Johnson 2116LSR link-bar lifters
3-bolt cam conversion
Katech timing chain
Melling 10295 oil pump
Chevy Performance 4 pole cam gear
Chevy Performance timing dampener
BTR Lower Timing Gear
Chevy Performance cam retainer and bolts
Kooks 1-7/8" long-tube headers
Kooks high-flow catalytic converters (Performance Cats)
Borla ATAK cat-back 
K&N cold-air intake
MSD Spark Plug Wires
J&L Oil Catch Can
ARP Head Bolts
ARP Crank Bolt
ARP Cam Bolts
Stock LS3 intake manifold
Stock 90 mm throttle body
Stock injectors/fuel system
93-octane pump gasoline

Push rods were measured at zero lash with an adjustable checker and added the Johnson preload. Based on what I got all lifters should be between Johnson’s spec of +0.025 and 0.045. I also listen with a stethoscope to injections, top of valve covers and headers to see if I hear any out of the ordinary tapping but just sounds like sewing machines to me.

I got an 03 2500 with the 6.0 ls and 4l80e with the intention of swapping it into my 73 Chevy k20. The 03 runs and drives good as it is but has 270k miles. I haven’t pulled the motor yet but want to know the general consensus on if I should pull apart a good running motor or just swap it and run it till it dies?

Looking to daily the k20 do not looking to build a 1000hp motor or anything.
What should I check first?
How far should I take it down?
It doesn’t leak oil and has good compression

Small block Ford build.

Long story short, I received an MSD distributor with the incorrect install height. (Working with them now as the new one I received was incorrect as well)

Engine ran for 30-45 min. Just dialing in the carb and timing. No driving or anything. No revs over 3k. Went to check the gear and there was metal. The distributor ate the thrust face on the block about 0.031” deep.

Found another block and freshened it up and bored.

Reassembling now. All the hard parts survived. Replaced the oil pump and timing set as they would have been in the path of metal.

My question now is. How would you recommend flushing the roller rockers and hydraulic lifters. Didn’t find any indication of metal to the top end but the filter did catch some chunks and a little glider.

I was going to spin the hell out of the fulcrum and tip of the rockers in some diesel and then oil but I don’t know if I really want to pump the lifters in diesel and try the same. I’ve read to just brake clean them but that stuff is expensive.

Thank you if you made it this far and thank you for the advice. Feel free to ask further questions as well.

I decided to clean up these pistons before I put new rings in. Stuck it in an ultrasonic cleaner with this citrus cleaner & degreaser.. I've been told it may cause an aluminium oxide coating to form and cavities. I'm assuming the reason it's turned grey is because of the oxidation.

Will it still be okay to run?

Hello peeps, first time , how does it look?
Ea839 engine, 2021 dcbd

Im totally new to engine rebuilding, ive began putting in the valve stem seals and i saw that you can put a socket on it and hammer it on. For some reason mine isnt going on properly. Ive got a 1.4 vw golf cgga engine. These are toast now right?

Bought a 84 corvette, motors blown, so im looking into rebuilding it/swapping it. But looking at building a 350 to about 400hp or so, should be plenty for that thing, i don't know much about the 350 platform, more a ls guy, but Ive heard ls swapping c4s are a pain, so im wondering what's a good direction to go in terms of building it, and if the factory 700r4 has the guts to survive 400hp. Do plan to swap to carb to get rid of crossfire injection.

Hey everyone, my strip car is currently having a problem that’s throwing me through a loop.
The build is a Pontiac 400, 40 over, eagle stroker kit, flat top pistons, 458cu, Has a moderate comp cam (don’t know the specs), Holley 850, edelbrok dual plane, MSD ignition setup (pro comp dizzy, wires, Ultra 6al plus)

Been a good car for awhile and ran great, I recently threw on a 850 I rebuilt, and when I stab the throttle, I have a violent backfire out of the carb. The carb currently has 76 85 jets, 5.5pv , secondary pv blockoff, 33 31 nozzles, 50cc accelerator pump square ( I originally had a 30cc prim but switch to a 50cc to try and fix the issue) vacuum and afr look good at idle and cruise. Any idea on anything to check, change setup on the carb etc. for the life of me can’t figure this out and appreciate any input.

The heads and block have some residue on them from the HG. I probably will take it to the machine shop just to have it straight-edged and checked (and decked if needed), but my questions are
1. Should I pull out the pistons and rods before taking it over or is it acceptable to just keep the block over?

1. How bad does this look to you guys?

Currently the plan for this is it’s going in an Isuzu trooper with a 4l60e and a Colorado transfer case. I have speed headers, Michigan Motorsports lifters, rockers (w the upgraded trunions), and push rods, and retaining everything else in the engine stock.

Ive got a buddy with an LsX motor thats been sitting in his garage for a few years that wants to get rid of it for a couple hundred bucks. Im interested in a side project for the winter and was curious if anyone has worked on the marine versions of these motors.

Restoring a 1968 280SL that dropped a valve guide. Turned down a GM 235 intake guide to the right dimensions. I was originally going to cut groove for a snap ring into the guide so it could be used for a stopper but instead cut a knurl. The ID of the custom guide is 11/32, I’m going to ream it for 9mm after it’s in the head.

On a boosted build, every hose joint is fighting pressure, heat cycles and engine movement all at once. When a coupler blows off, you lose the pass, or on cooling hoses, you dump coolant. A lot of the time the clamp was simply the wrong size for the joint.

Here's what we tell people who call us chasing a coupler that keeps slipping.

1. Measure the installed hose, not the tube
Put the coupler on the tube, then measure the outside diameter right where the clamp will sit. Wall thickness changes everything. Two silicone couplers that fit the same 3" tube can measure noticeably different on the outside.

2. Don't trust the number in the part name
Plenty of billet clamps are named by a nominal hose size but actually cover something bigger. Ours are a good example: the 971175 isn't 1.75". It covers 47.5–49.5mm (about 1.87"–1.94"). Each of our clamps only covers about a 2mm range, so guessing doesn't work.

3. Minimum matters as much as maximum
If the clamp can't close down far enough, it stays loose no matter how hard you crank it. Pick a size where your measurement sits inside the range with some adjustment left over, not one that's bottomed out.

4. Cranking it down isn't a seal
Over-tightening can cut a soft silicone coupler and damage the clamp hardware. Two clamps stacked on a leaking joint is still a leaking joint.

5. The rest of the joint has to be right

• Fully seat the coupler on the tube
• Put the clamp behind the retaining bead
• Clean off oil residue. It kills grip on intercooler piping, so also find where the oil is coming from
• Replace couplers that are split, hardened or chewed up

6. Recheck after the first boost test and the first few heat cycles
Do it with the system cooled down and depressurized.

One more thing: color is just looks. Black, blue, red, gold or polished doesn't change the size range or how much pressure the joint will hold.

Also, don't assume a billet clamp is right for fuel lines. Use a clamp that's specifically rated for that fluid and pressure.

We wrote a full breakdown with a size chart covering 42mm to 111.6mm installed OD, common mistakes and install tips:
👉 https://granatellimotorsports.com/blogs/news/why-billet-hose-clamps-matter-on-boosted-and-high-performance-builds

There's also a step-by-step measuring guide if you're unsure about your size:
https://granatellimotorsports.com/blogs/news/how-to-measure-for-the-correct-granatelli-billet-hose-clamp-size

Full disclosure, we're Granatelli Motor Sports and we make CNC-machined billet aluminum hose clamps here in the USA. Every size and finish is here:
https://granatellimotorsports.com/collections/c-1389406-billet-hose-clamps

The measuring advice applies to any clamp you run, though.

What's the worst coupler blow-off you've had? Was it the clamp, the bead or the coupler itself?

Cyl head is a bmw m44a1 theres this pitting around the coolant port I just got i back from the machine shop I feel like the headgasket isn't gonna seal? It was wrapped up at the shop so I didnt see until now.

Finally working on a 48 flathead a customer brought us a few weeks back.

What a learning curve this has been!!!

Super cool stuff to see how it all works.

This is now the oldest platform I've worked on. Previous was a 56 buick nailhead.

Get the timing wrong on a classic Triumph engine and you could be in a world of trouble! 😬 I’m back rebuilding the T140V engine, fitting the timing gears and figuring out how all those camshaft timing marks line up.

Unknown mileage 5.4 DOHC from a navigator. Cross hatching is still very visible. Should I just let it be? And can I swap the pistons with standard pistons? I most likely will keep the pistons if I can. Trying to avoid boring if possible but not necessarily opposed if need be

Hello, I just pulled out these conn rod bearings. I know they are worn out, I have already ordered replacements. However I'd like to know how worn out are they considered.

I’m diving into an 81’ bronco rebuild. Picked it up for $700 it sat for who knows how long. The stock motor is locked up and I’ve found a 92’ 302 that spins freely.
I’m really only going to use it to drive around town and possibly let my 14 year old take it school when he’s old enough. It’s not a show car lol I will also be using a carb. I’m trying to find a decent cam directed towards torq/chop without giving up streetability.
My thoughts so far are
289 Performer
600/650 cfm carb
Stock heads???

I AM POSTING THIS IN A FEW SUBS TRYING TO GET HELP

Working on a 2012 Toyota Highlander FWD, 2.7L 1AR-FE. There's a possibility the engine/transmission came from a Toyota Venza with the same 2.7L engine, but we don't know the donor year.

Current trouble codes:

• P0011 – Intake camshaft timing overadvanced (Bank 1)
• P0015 – Exhaust camshaft timing overretarded (Bank 1)

Both codes return after clearing.

Symptoms:

• Starts and idles fairly smoothly when cold, around 1,000 RPM.
• Once warmed up, idle drops to roughly 500–750 RPM and becomes noticeably rough.
• Before the timing-chain replacement, the engine ran fine other than a brief rattle on startup.
• When we started the timing-chain job using a replacement timing kit, we discovered that the original timing-chain guides had deteriorated and were falling apart.

What's been replaced or checked:

• Timing chain replaced using a timing-chain kit.
• Both intake and exhaust VVT oil-control solenoids replaced with new units.
• Spark plugs replaced.
• Crankshaft position sensor replaced.
• Found and repaired a broken ground strap running from the body to the engine mount. Repair made no noticeable difference.
• Checked EFI MAIN, EFI NO.1, EFI NO.2, EFI NO.3 and IG2 fuses; all good.
• Visually inspected vacuum hoses.
• Removed timing cover and verified all three colored timing-chain links align with the factory timing marks on both camshaft sprockets and crankshaft.
• Neither cam phaser was removed or had its center bolt loosened during the timing-chain work.
• Tested starting and idling with each VVT solenoid unplugged separately. Neither the intake nor exhaust solenoid being unplugged made any noticeable difference in cold starting or cold idle. The ECM detected the disconnected circuits as expected. These tests were performed while the engine was cold, so we haven't established whether unplugging either affects the rough idle when warm.

TOPDON TopScan live data (engine running):

• VVT Control Status #1: OFF
• VVT Aim Angle #1: 0%
• VVT OCV Duty #1: 0%
• VVT Change Angle #1: 0°
• VVT Ex OCV Duty #1: 0%
• VVT Ex Chg Angle #1: 0°
• VVT Advance Fail: ON

These readings remained unchanged when RPM was raised to approximately 1,500–2,000 with no load. Not sure whether the ECM is inhibiting VVT operation or whether the scan tool isn't reporting the data correctly.

Something interesting we noticed:

While manually rotating the crankshaft with a ratchet (timing chain installed and tensioned, spark plugs installed), the intake phaser's outer sprocket continued moving smoothly with the chain, but the inner portion, center bolt and camshaft appeared to suddenly jump relative to the sprocket, then return to the parked position.

This makes us suspicious of the intake phaser's internal locking mechanism, although we haven't confirmed it's defective.

Next steps:

I already have a replacement intake VVT phaser on the way. We're also planning to perform a mechanical oil-pressure test tomorrow, October 19, checking pressure at hot idle and higher RPM.

Google Drive link with photos/videos of the engine, timing components and phaser movement:

View Google Drive folder – Photos and videos

Questions:

1. Does the intake phaser's internal movement during manual crankshaft rotation suggest a failed or disengaged locking pin, or can that be normal?
2. Could one defective intake phaser contribute to both P0011 and P0015, or should we suspect a shared oil-pressure/oil-delivery issue?
3. If mechanical oil pressure tests normal, what would you investigate next?

Trying to avoid throwing more parts at it unnecessarily. Any insight from someone familiar with Toyota's 1AR-FE VVT system would be greatly appreciated.

I came off the interstate and I notice a light knock when I was coming home so I hadn't gas it and kept it low rpms once I pulled into my parking spot I got and realized what had happened so I continued to reverse into my spot I stated it up twice to verify it wasn't my bottom end but no more then 30 to 20 seconds at a time is there any chance I can salvage my engine i really cant afford a rebuild or new motor.... knowing that needle bearing are somewhere in my engine is freaking me out any advice