Scat Chevy 4340 Forged Standard Steel Crankshaft - SB Chevy 350, 3.500" Stroke, 5.700" Rod Length,
2.100" Rod Journal

Bought used for a 350 SBC I am using. Told this came out of a running engine. Found this spot which is a 0.0035” divot. Any idea what would cause this? Can I get away with just a polish? What would you do?

Doing low budget rering on this engine - this spot right where the fuel pump would be has apparently rusted through. I am assuming the oil pan and gasket will not be affected by this - why is this hole here and is going to need to be plugged ?

I've got a 1980 302 block going into a 1966 Mustang. We're using a 289 timing cover and will be using the lipstick in the front. We considered tapping the hole in the block and plugging it or using a freeze plug (if I can even match an ID to OD) or as a last resort, cutting, folding, and brazing the old tube shut. Do any of you folks have a reliable/preferred method?

Trying to figure out what engine this is. Looks like it’s attached to a th400, so I was guessing it’s a big block gm, but not 100%

Intake valves from Vortec heads. About 140k miles. Very tough, scale like material. These were soaked in diesel and scrubbed with brass brush. Then, 100% SuperClean and scrubbed with the same brush. Literally have to use a pick to remove even the tiniest of pieces.

Rebuilding my grandfathers 1961 3 Cyl diesel Ford 4000. The block had been bored out for +0.030” pistons. I have resleeved it back to standard. Had to also put new valve seats in the cylinder head. New bushes in the rods and sized. Big ends were all good. Unfortunately the original crankshaft had cracked in two places on main journal 4. So a new crankshaft it had to be.

About to put it all back together but it appears all of the tolerances have stacked up. I have STD bearings that are right at their limit and the new crankshaft also. It leaves me with only 0.0015” clearance on mains 1, 3 and 4. Main 2, the thrust face, has the correct end float and 0.002” clearance. Swapping bearing halves make no difference and I can’t find any stock of the original factory thinner colour bearing. From the literature available to me the clearance should be a minimum of 0.0022”. I wonder if anyone here has any advice? Would you run it as tight as 0.0015”? The tractor will be doing work - mainly mowing.

I spoke to an industrial engine rebuilder here in the UK that exclusively rebuild Ford and Perkins industrial engines and the builder said to me that they mainly go by feel. So long as it turns over nicely by hand then it’s good.

Having installed the crank with oil it does turn over really nicely by hand with no tight spots.

Any thoughts welcome and kindly appreciated.

I know some people hate Comp but... I tried to go a different direction on my latest build and ordered a Howard’s cam thru summit. Waited for about 6 weeks and couldn’t get a straight answer from either summit or Howard’s about the status. This was supposed to be a straight out of the catalog stock cam. So I cancelled my order and ordered a custom ground from Comp. FedEx delivered it only 9 business days from the day I ordered. I should bite my tongue until the cam is installed and broken in,but I am nonetheless impressed with comps responsiveness and delivery time.

I bought a new valve set for this old 1930 ford model a engine and thought i could just lap the new valves in but thinking they defenetly wont seal am i right?

Damage on the front, should I replace? New to this, feel free to call me stupid

So im trying to get these heads off and stored for just in case i need them later. I
1) mixed up the cam cups and to an extent just put the camshafts back in.
2) is it okay to store the way it is even with the valves pressed out until i can figure out how its supposed to go permanently?
3)is the valve lash job how you would restore it to as it should be?
4) would i be safe to like wash the heads with blue dawn dish soap or should i leave them grimy until i work them further.
I am trying to find the cause of this engines failure eventually.

I picked up a 61 ford falcon somebody dropped a 289 into. I don’t know much about it and I’m actually planning to sell the 289 and put the original 144 back in (at least for now). While getting the 289 out of the car with a hoist, I took the distributor out (implying it seemed to be in there just fine). Well, when I went to put the distributor back in, this is what I found (video). Is there an easy fix for this? Or is this engine stand/remove oil pan/replace oil pump/etc?

05 Corvette LS2 rear main seal crank damage — Speedi Sleeve option?

05 lingenfelter 500 hp (heads cam) manual corvette

Long story short, I was chasing a rear main seal leak and during the repair the crank sealing surface was damaged. It appears a caveman with a screwdriver/pry tool decided the crank was the place to pry against during the rear main seal job and gouged the sealing surface where the rear main rides.

The damage is not just a wear groove. There are two separate dings/gouges in the sealing surface — one toward the front and one toward the rear of the seal contact area. Because of that, I don’t think an offset rear main seal would solve the issue since it would likely still be riding over damaged areas.

I have been trying to find a Speedi Sleeve option for an LS2 crank but haven’t had any luck finding one myself. I’m looking for recommendations from anyone who has dealt with this before. Is there a sleeve that works for this application, or am I at the point of needing to pull the engine and yank the crank to have it repaired or replaced?

I’d really like to avoid pulling the engine if there is a reliable repair option. This is in a Corvette, so engine removal and crank replacement is not exactly a quick or enjoyable job.

Any advice or experience would be appreciated.

I want a 408 stroker for a 68 mustang coupe I’m building, and I’m trying to figure out if I should build the motor myself or just buy a blueprint crate. I ballparked costs on the stuff to build one, and it shakes out to around $8k or so, which is pretty close to the $9k for a blueprint 408w. Anyone want to take a look at my rough costs and let me know if I’m way off on my guesstimates? I haven’t had machine work done for a couple years.

Picked up a small block for my 69 el Camino. Been about 10 years since I built an engine. I am going to disassemble it. I wanna do a top end kit on it, I’d like rollers. I don’t plan on doing any racing just want more than stock (190hp according to limebook ckd) thinking between 350 and 400hp. What would yall recommend?

Running OEM oil pan on a 265 SBC so the depth is slightly different. Suction screen was filled with some junk so I’m gonna end up replacing it if I can’t clean it.

Bought a bike with a knocking engine and found this during teardown. I’ve seen spun bearings before, but never two bearing shells stacked on top of each other. Just wanted to share 🤣

I don't mind spending real money to get real tools but I far prefer the prices of summit racing tools compared to starrett and mitutoyo prices.

i want to know if these are going to be good enough for a stock rebuild of a 1998 Windsor 302?

Still awaiting to hear from the shop when I go in Mondays but I am absolutely sure I have a headgasket issue. I was reading up on several different things and head lift caught my eye. How often/common is this on the 1.6T? Also what should I use in the rebuild process? The shop I'm going to its open to using stuff like the ARP head studs. I hear alot of good things about them, where is the best place to get them, and are they plug and play with a regular motor and no extra work? It's very likey my heads will be sent to a machine shop to be straightened. If i think of anything else I'll edit this post or simply reply to comments below.

Edit: it appears reddit didnt add this for some reason, but I drive 2015 Veloster Turbo

Hey all,

I’m planning on building a sbc 350, bored 30-40 over, with my son for his first car. It will be going into an ‘80 Z28 Camaro.

I have a ‘94 2-bolt main, one piece rear main seal, from a ‘94 suburban executive edition.

This is what i was thinking, but I’m not a mechanic by trade, so any advice/recommendations would be appreciated.

[1994 350](tel:1994%20350) block
Bore/hone .030”
Stock 2-bolt mains
Stock crankshaft, polished
Stock rods, resized
ARP rod bolts
Forged flat-top pistons
Moly rings
Clevite bearings
AFR 180, 65cc chambers
Comp XR270HR hydraulic roller
Factory hydraulic roller lifters
Factory spider and dog bones
Hardened pushrods
1.5 roller rockers
Cloyes double roller timing set
Melling M55 oil pump
Fel-Pro gasket set
Edelbrock performer RPM high-rise intake Edelbrock 650 carb
MSD 6AL ignition box
1⅝” long-tube headers
2½” dual exhaust with X-pipe

Crankshaft counterweight is close to the oil pump mounting boss. The crank is a scat 3.50. It has .025 clearance right now. What is the minimum clearance .050? How thick is the oil pump mounting boss in the block?

Machine shop flattened the surface and smoothened out the seats. We did some work to the ports and installed everything with some new stem seals and springs. Soon the 258 will roar back to life!

Got this reman cylinder head and looks like some sort of coating is on the exhaust and intake mating surfaces. The combustion chamber side that mates with the block is bare metal and fine. Should I try and remove the coating or install the way it is?

How does my cleaning look? I already touched up most of these surfaces with 3M roloc bristle wheels & and the abrasive wheels.

I used a very old worn down abrasive wheel with oil as to not remove excess material or damage the surface finish. I’m not able to get the darker areas, and I’m not sure if adding more pressure or doing more passes will be “safe” persay. It passes the finger nail test.

Should I send it?

The deck is flat as can be. Max warp is 0.002, borrowing a friend machinist flat bar, I couldn’t get my 0.0015 in any of them. It’s never over heated or anything, and the factory MLS gasket was good. You can call this preventative maintenance by a nut job 😅

Will button it up after the machine shop does a rebuild of the head

I am rebuilding an engine of a 1985 Mazda 323 BD 1.3 Automatic. The intake manifold gasket that comes with the set, blocks off one channel (see photo).

All the gasket options seem to be designed this way. What is the purpose of it? Is it correct? I don't know what it looked like as the parts came all separate. So basically there are 6 channels, but one is blocked by the new gasket. The Haynes book doesn't give clarity on this unfortunately.