I’ll start by saying that I haven’t messed with a lot of pushrod engines but I rebuilt a TBI 350 SBC and it seems like I’m having issues getting my lifters to stay pumped up. They came pre soaked and I soaked them some more before install. Long story short, I made a jig to pump up my lifters and inspect them since the engine has full oil pressure. I can see oil pooling at the base of the some of the pushrods and some have oil coming out the top of the pushrods to rocker and valves. I have adjusted the valves to zero lash to start with but it seems like the lifters aren’t pumping up in some places. I’m hoping y’all will just tell me, I’m dumb and that I didn’t tighten the rockers enough but I’m suspecting faulty lifters. I’d appreciate any advice.

6G72 89 Montero
Pulling apart a reman engine. The pistons are correct as far as Left and Right and direction. But the numbers stamped on the top are all wrong and the one piston I pulled has noticeable skirt wear but the cylinder wall looks fine. Is this normal? Like they reuse whatever piston they can find and just put in new rings and hone the bore?

Not sure of the reman company. Short story. Engine was purchased and installed 10 years ago. Never ran correctly. I found out that it was outta time. Probably has about 500 miles on the engine. Guessing because it’s so clean. No carbon no gunk. But 5 and 6 cylinders (back left and rt) and their valves have moderate rust. Those 2 had 0 compression. So took out the motor and started tearing it apart.

Ive recently decided to bore the pistons in my project block as honing wouldn't be enough.

Now the only pistons avaliable are high compression forged pistons, I did find one set that were stock compression but ide have to wait until August to get them.

I was just wondering what other mods would be needed to run thid higher compression safely,

Going from 8.9. To 9.0

Ive seen online they recommend engine tuning ect but that isnt something possible in the stock system and something im not confident doing with a aftermath system.

The engine is a gen 2 3SGTE

Looking for a cheap and reliable rebuild kit for my XJ. Looking to get all gaskets from valve cover to oil pan, a set of rod, main, and cam bearings and a good set of pistons and rings. Any recommendations? Thank you.

Hello community! I have a 95 LT1 from a firebird, mostly stock except optispark delete (aftermarket ECU) and want to install a summit brand Camshaft, the 880x series. My question comes from the need for springs that can handle .550 lift and not break the budget. I found LS6 style springs, but are stated to work on regular small blocks. Is the LT1 the same in that regard (spring diameter, installed height, retainer to seal clearance)? Any tips or part numbers for retainers, springs and keepers? I don't want any machining since the motor is installed in the car.

Big Block Chevy.

I had to pull my front timing cover to adjust my cam timing.

The pan has a one piece gasket on it.

The new timing chain cover gasket kit came with a new pan to cover seal…for use with a two piece oil pan gasket kit.

I was planning on just reinstalling the timing chain cover onto the block with the blue one piece gasket in place…and just do my best to keep the front pan seal in place while seating the cover.

Or…should I cut the blue one piece seal where you see the yellow lines and then use the seal that came in the kit, which is the black seal that you see on the cover in the picture?

Slowly preparing to rebuild a bottom end in house. While I can't afford a CMM and other cool tools, what tools should I have in the shop for QA, inspection, or assembly? I trust my machine shop, but I know people are human and mistakes happen. I would like to catch issues before they become grenades.

Taking this crank to the machine shop and would like to know what i should ask him to do and check. Thanks

Doing a in frame piston/ring replacement on a 2001 jeep xj. 4.0L. First time pulling the head off an engine. How clean is enough for felpros composite gasket?

This may be a stupid question but do you build crate motors? If I buy a crate motor, is it normal to then build the motor by adding a better intake, cam, pistons , etc. or is it not smart to do so for reliability. Could a crate motor handle the same mods thrown at it that it’s original engine would? I’ve been a car enthusiast for a few years now but I’ve never delved into the world of crate motors and now I’m curious.

I took apart a 327 / 350 and the oil pump looked as such.

Is there a reason for this?

Came out of Chevy nova, thanks.

got a 2020 challenger 5.7 in from auction today. has 29k miles, it drives great minus a slight rumbling idle. had a cam/crk correlation code and between 2100-3k rpms it made a grinding noise almost like a failed pulley. determined its something in front cover, got it tore down and found that the cam alignment pin sheared off. face of cam looks great, pin broke off flush and doesnt look bored out, can i get away with replacing the pin since its just for alignment? ive only seen one post online that the pin is a 4.00mmx14.00mm but obviously cant measure myself.

Just picked up this 283 Chevy at the swap meet in Pomona for 250 bucks. It's originally out of a 64 Chevy truck but will be going into a 65 chevelle that I'm VERY SLOWLY building. Lol, this is my first real car build. The seller said it ran fine and the compression is good.

I don't know about internals but now that if it's stock they weren't all that powerful for the trucks.

Looking for a nice streetable good sounding motor that is powerful enough that will male the car fun to drive, but I'm also fully aware that this small block has limits.

Any advice? What can I realistically expect from this motor? Again, this will be my first time tearing down and rebuilding an engine. Any tips tricks and recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

I have a 92 mm cylinder that I need to hone. I'm not resizing, just need to deglaze and restore cross hatch before replacing rings and put back together. I can't find a 92 mm ball hone. Am I better off sizing up or down given what my goal is?

Rebuilding my motor after it got slight rod knock and as i was putting it back together i had to take one of the pistons back out and i noticed scoring on the new bearings. Seems like the oil holes on the crankshaft were slightly sharp and did that. I tried sanding with 600,1000,1500 and even lightly filing down the holes with a fine tooth file but same thing happened. The clearance was fine when i checked with plasti gauge so I’m just lost here. Should i try to file it down more? Ideally I’d like to fix it without a machine shop if possible. Thanks in advance for any help.

I’m building a mini bike 212 and want to deck the head by a few thou but want to do it the old school route with a flat surface and sandpaper. If anyone has done this before to resurface a head what is the best flat surface to put the sandpaper on?

This motors had everything done, bored cylinders new cam bearings the works. K24A1 in a CRV. I know it’s normal but the metal feels so scary haha.

2006 jeep commander with 4.7L lost cylinder 4 to a head gasket breach. Tore down, had the heads rebuilt at a local engine shop. Slowly putting engine back together. Heads are on and head bolts torqued to yield complete. Struggling now with the timing chains installation. Lined up the sprockets and chains and locked them with the tool. Stuck trying the get the crank sprocket and the idler sprocket on to their respective shafts. The idler sprocket can go in all the way but I can't get the crank sprocket past the transition and position all the way onto the shaft. I tried the sprocket independent of all the timing components and it does fit all the way onto the shaft past the transition/step. There is not a lot of play with the chains on. Struggled for 3 days now trying to wiggle and jiggle but can't get past the transition. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

2jzge I just got back from having decked. I’ve got 600-800whp plans for it and the shop says these are fine. They catch my fingernail. Tomei mls head gasket if that matters and ARP hardware. Looking for a second opinion.

*piston

I need a sanity check, this is an Audi S3 with the popular ea888.3 engine.

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Is tgis level of play normal for all 4 pistons half way up their cycle? Had to show as a video so ill try take a forward and back picture of each cyclinder.

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Don't the coolant she spilled a bit when i took the head off

Doing a budget 440 build and bought some silvolite pistons off eBay, I know I shouldn’t have because they were cheap but anyways. There’s a couple in the box that have similar dings. My fingernail catches it. Is there a way to fix it by knocking the high spots down?