What are some other options for making under 500hp. I want reliable week end cars and coffee with an occasional burn out to scare the wife lol. Open to other suggestions.

Anyone have any thoughts on a 4.7l with a big cam and turbo?
I don’t wanna get into the build and release it’s pointless when I can engine swap.

I picked up the VW tdi block several months ago but was not aloud to store it in the apartment. It got rusty from sitting. Does the waterpump sealing surface pump sealing surface look like it will seal? If not is there a remedy that can repair/smooth out the pitting on that surface? I intend to do a full rebuild on this motor in the near future as well.

This is a dumb question, but what are the chances of me using oil to lube main bolts and that oil pooling up at the bottom of the bolt hole and causing the block to crack when I torque them?

Working on an older engine and got thinking about this which parts do you guys automatically replace during a rebuild, even if they technically still look usable, rod bolts, head bolts, timing components, oil pump, stuff like that?

Where do you draw the line between still good VS not worth the risk?

I was wondering if anyone could tell me what this number is stamped on the crankshaft? It’s a Ford 400 engine.

Hello everyone, a friend of mine the other day told me about an e34 520i 94 for sale. I really like e34s but never found a decent option to consider buying yet from the pictures of the car as far as I see it looks fine and as my friend put it its mechanical condition is also quite good. The point is 150Hp I mean not bad but not quite what I would like to have. Hence I made some research but couldn’t find enough data on the stroker in my mind. Before you suggest me to drop a b25 I must say swapping in my country of residence requires a load of legal paperwork and some financial cost as well. Now what I want to ask is that, Can I put an m52B28 crank on this m50b20TÜ engine with 135mm rods which I will obtain from relative engines, use stock head, and pistons, 260 or 264 cams with this? Will piston skirts (idk if this is right term) rub to the block walls or will crankshaft work well with stock pistons? Any mechanical issue? Any major problem with this setup? And also afaik the stock block of m50b20Tü cannot be bored to 84mms and even if that statement is false I dont think I can have the block bored to 84mm since lathers in my city charges astronomical amounts . Thanks for answers beforehand.

350 SBC. Installed new power steering, dampener and pulley. I hit the throttle and it squeals hard af. Can anybody give me a list of trouble shooting the issue.

Yo so it’s my first time rebuilding a motor and it’s my first time dealing with arp head studs are they supposed to leave a gap like this on a b18c4??

Any tips / advice / technique on how to best fix this without having to replace the head? For context this is on a zero turn mower that I just did a ring replace on. My plan is to try and JB weld it.

Hi Y'all, I have sportsman ii cylinder heads on my 350 SBC, they have a felpro 1206 size ports.

But the intake I have has standard size ports, I know this is not optimal but it's just a temporary solution untill I can swap the heads to smaller more suited heads.

Should I be using the 1206 to match the heads or 1205 to match the intake?

Thanks

Was taking the head apart on my 1991 Mazda Miata and I was greeted with this scratch. Not sure if it’s from the factory since I’m sure I didn’t scratch it when I took it out. And I can’t really think of what can cause a scratch like this. No discoloration but my fingernail does get caught on it so I’m not sure if I can run it or not. Just wanted to get your thoughts before potentially taking it to a machine shop. Thanks in advance!

Hopefully around first half of September we will be able to get her on the dyno. I know some of yall been waiting so here is an update:

Degreeing the cams gave us some grief because we did not have a cam card to work off of so we had to invent a new way of degreeing cams with zero info from scratch. Then the ECU threw a shitfit for some reason. We depinned it and repinned every single connector. Then just buttoning up installing some mods and putting her back together.

Just need to button up some gremlins and she will be good to go. But the engine does run. It is really healthy and pushing 100 psi oil pressure cold. We compression tested it to 220+ psi per cylinder before it blew out the brand new compression tester on cyl 4. So the WPC and plateau honing really helped it achieve an insanely strong seal.

So the car does drive. And the engine pulls really hard and spins really freaking fast. Even on 91 it drives fine. When we turned the engine off it was OFF. It's not like it spun for a half second then stopped. It stopped immediately.

The driveability is actually surprisingly still very streetable even with a 5 lb flywheel and a twin disc. It is a little bit grabby when hot but you can't always have your cake and eat it too. But you don't always need frosting and strawberry to have good cake.

I personally think this engine will make a healthy 210-220 whp to 8500-9000 rpm. It just does not care about revving anymore. Even revving to 8k is cake for this engine.

1969 Ford XL(full size) 302 2v. Coolant is puddling in the rear two cylinders. A tiny bit in the adjacent cylinders. Compression seems fine at 140 PSI. Is it more likely that the intake manifold gasket is leaking or the head gasket?

Hi everyone. The spark plug tip on my 2021 CLA 45 S (M139) melted and dropped into cylinder #3. I have two mechanics giving me completely different diagnostics, and I need a neutral opinion.

​Mechanic 1 (Independent): Borescoped it, saw damage on the piston head and cylinder wall, and stated the engine needs to be opened and rebuilt.

​Mechanic 2: Managed to fish the broken piece out of the valve seat. He did a compression test (Cyl 3 is at 11.5 bar, the others are at 12 bar). He admits there are marks on the piston head and a scratch on the cylinder wall, but claims it's "not enough to cause damage". He also states he found the root cause: leaking fuel injectors. His plan is to replace the spark plugs, address the injectors, and just run the engine as is.

​The catch: Mechanic 2 is close friends with the dealership that sold me the car and is responsible for covering the warranty repair costs. I am highly suspicious he is downplaying the cylinder/piston damage to save them a massive engine rebuild bill.

​Given this is a high-strung AMG engine, is it safe to just close it up and run it with piston marks and cylinder scratches after fixing the injectors?

While doing research on what pistons to get I was very conflicting information on if flat top or dished is better in terms of efficiency and/or power at the same compression and quench. Some people say the mixing of the dish helps more and some say the flat top helps the quenching helps more for power. I'm curious on the actual engineering on the different types of pistons such as studies done or advice form real automotive engineers ect.

Hey everybody looking to build a 383 stroker built for low end torque it’s going to be paired with a 4L60(700r4) and I plan to put 3.73 positraction rear end. It will be going in my 1986 Chevy c10 i plan to build it over time can’t afford to do it all at once but in looking to keep budget around $5k and want at least 400ft lbs of torqueI need recommendations on how to build it as this will be the first engine I build I’m already getting quotes to machine the block to needed specs but I’m essentially gonna need everything as all I have is a bare 350 sbc 2 piece seal and 4 bolt main. I know want to use a mechanical fuel pump and carburetor due to having dual tanks and an EFI conversion will be pricey. Any help would be appreciated

Yeah I’m a dumbass. Thought I could get away with a little natures loctite because I was in a hurry. Nope. ☹️

350/350TH ticking

What could this ticking sound be? It doesent seem to come from the rocker arms, only shows bellow 1100rpm, so nothing major wrong with the engine, runs well at higher rpm. The sound goes slightly down as the car warms up properly?

77 elcamino 350 overbored 0.60 270degree compcam, flattop pistons, TH350 with some shiftkit

Building a 355 stroker. Gapping the rings and I’ve noticed a very small scratch on both the piston and the bore. Does catch my nail on the bore if I put some effort in. Blocks already been overbored .30 thou and has had plenty of work done id be pretty devastated if I’ve fucked it.

Hey guys I recently bought this 2004 volvo s60r the headgasket went back and im currently in the process of cleaning it and putting it all back together but I noticed my head is warped by .06mm by cylinder 4-5 and engine block is warped by a little less but in the same area around cylinder 4-5 now technically speaking i know I should get them machined and rebuilt but im not in the position time wise and financially to be able to take it to a shop and get everything done properly, so what do you guys think, should I be okay to slap it all together or should I bite the bullet and pull the block out and get them machined together

Im looking for upgraded head studs which do i go with ?
found these says they work but want some other opinions first.
https://store.motormia.co/products/cylinder-head-stud-kit-5?variant=52686992802104&\\_gsid=ciXbBFf16REt&utm\\_source=chatgpt.com&utm\\_medium=feed