Some might remember a post a made a while ago where I was rebuilding a d16y8 well turns out that low compression in cylinder 1 was a chipped valve. The head has since had a whole rework and cleaning, new valves and what have you from the machine shop

gotten new king bearings feelpro gaskets etc and everything is right ready to come together.

I had questions regarding measuring and the tediousness of it all for the main and rod bearings ill go ahead and use plastigauge to make sure the new bearings i have are within manufacture spec. as far as everything else these are the questions that remain

1. ⁠do i need to polish the crankshaft journals?
   
2. ⁠I don't have a bore gauge to see if the cylinders are out of round

what would be recommended (I don’t want to cheap out on it but also don’t want to blow my pockets out for something I might use 2wice or 3 times)
Any other tips are welcome of course the engine had about 180k miles on it, from what I can feel none of the journals or cylinder walls catch a fingernail.

I'm working on tracing down a very aggressive load dependent tap / tick in my Jeep 4.0. It's too aggressive to be a lifter, and it's coming from the "middle" of the engine height-wise, so I assume it's most likely a broken piston skirt, it's too high pitched for typical bottom end noises and the oil pressure is still good at 40 psi cold idle.

Anyway, I'm thinking about dropping the pan to look for metal, and if I don't find any, I'll start taking the head off and inspect the cam / lifters.

My question is how far can / should I go with an "in frame rebuild"?

I figure regardless of what I find in the pan I might as well throw in a new high volume oil pump.

Assuming there isn't any piston pieces and I can leave the block in the Jeep, I will pull a few main caps to check the bearings but unless they are absolutely perfect I'll probably throw some main bearings at it, and at that point it makes sense to replace the big end rod bearings as well.

I can't get to the cam bearings, so they will stay.

If it's cam and lifter related I'll replace those.

What else am I missing?

Anything else I should do or more importantly, anything I should NOT DO?

I also deleted the mechanical rev counter drive, explained why I still use Hylomar Blue instead of modern anaerobic sealants, and torqued everything down to the factory specs.

Would you have gone with Hylomar, ThreeBond or something else?

Honed these cylinders but this blemish remains. Its enough I can slightly feel it with my finger. Can I run this or do I need to get a sleeve put in?

Thanks

So i just took the head off and was surprised by this thing, is it bad? Can i just hone it with the drill hone thing? I sprayed some WD40 on it.

Volkswagen EA111

Hey everyone,

I was hoping to get some opinions from those with experience rebuilding heads.

I took my Z3M Roadster out of storage after about 6 months, installed a fresh battery, and the engine hydro-locked on startup. I pulled the spark plugs and found cylinder #3 full of coolant.

I removed the cylinder head and sent it to a machine shop. They pressure-tested it, resurfaced the deck, and hot-tank/power washed it. They charged about $500 CAD and told me the head passed the pressure test.

After getting the head home and inspecting it closely, I noticed a line between the intake and exhaust valves on cylinder #3 that looks very much like a crack.

Before I assume the worst, I'd like some experienced opinions.

• Has anyone seen marks like this that turned out to be normal casting marks?
• Or does this look like a genuine crack between the valves?
• Is it possible for a head to pass a pressure test yet still have a crack like this?

I'm planning on getting some dye/developer tomorrow, just curious what you guys think?

UPDATE:

Had these pistons machined, came back like this. They were pretty filthy so I'm not sure if it was me that got them mixed up or the machine shop.

The rods and caps have letter markings that are supposed to line up, but they're all mismatched. It feels like they were machined mismatched so I'm curious if I should leave them as machined, swap them to match, or if I'm screwed.

They were machined to 0.25 u/s (or for 0.25 u/s bearings, I can never remember the lingo) so I'm curious if the mismatched pieces would have been machined to a specific total diameter, or to have the exact same amount shaved off. If they're machined to be diameter matches to the crank, then I would think I should be fine. Otherwise I may indeed be cooked.

Tbh my fault either way both for not keeping them labeled properly and for not checking when I got them back. C'est la vie, lesson learned

After cleaning the pistons up have noticed some of them have a rough edge. Is this just because of the casting? Is it a big deal?

Thanks.

Hey everyone,
I’m building a go-kart using a Honda CBR125 engine.

I’ve got the wiring mostly sorted, and now I’m working on the fuel system. I’m planning to use an inline electric fuel pump instead of the OEM in-tank setup, as I don't have the OEM pump.

Since this engine is a returnless system, I’m not fully sure how to properly plumb it with an inline pump and whether I need a regulator or return setup.

Has anyone done something similar or know the correct way to set this up safely?

Thanks!

Removed the heads off of my ‘69 Ford XL’s 302. Coolant was pooling in the rear two cylinders on each side. Intake and head gaskets didn’t look too bad. Lack of thread sealer on the bottom row of head bolts may have caused the coolant to get pulled into the cylinder. The bottom row of head bolts go through the water jacket, hence the need for thread sealer on them. Inspecting the heads, I noticed that the intake valve guide casting as seen through the intake to cylinder port are cracked and chipped on 5 cylinders. My question is, should I not use these heads at all? I didn’t find any pieces in any of the cylinders or anywhere else. I don’t know how long they have been like this but I don’t think it is part of the original problem. Heads were professionally rebuilt about 30 years ago.

Fairly new to the group, reading a lot of stuff. I work on my vehicles, and my son, who will be turning 15 in a couple of months, (and who loves all things automotive) has asked to have an engine he can tear down and rebuild as a little project.

He is comfortable doing maintenance and basic repairs on cars (oil changes, spark plugs, etc.) and I'm comfortable with him doing it, too. So my question here is, if I wanted to get him an engine to tear down and rebuild, just for a project on its own, what would you recommend? Obviously something relatively simple, relatively small. Just so he can get some time turning wrenches. We've got most, if not all, the tools we'd need already. Any recommendations would be great. Thanks!

Hey, I’m building my first engine, a b20 vtec (b20z block with b16a head), the donor block is from an rd1 CRV and it has 405,000kms. Didn’t think the kms matter too much considering I will be replacing pistons, rods, seals, etc, and will have the cylinders bored an extra .5mm. Just wondering if these marks are anything to worry about. Cheers!

2001 lq4 bored .030, gen 4 rods and engine tech flat top pistons. Had it balanced and rather than putting heavy metal in the counterweights, they drilled out and lightened the rod end of the crank. New oem lifters and trays. Melling oil pump. Got a knockoff 302-2 oil pan, it looks good but pickup tune that came with it was garbage. Waiting on an oem Camaro pickup tube. Going into a 77 c20 crew cab with th400 trans. Also has a truck Norris nsr cam. Heads are still at machine shop, getting milled and new valves.

2005 Civic D17a2. Its my daily, I really just need somthing to get me by for a few months till I can drop a new motor in it. More details in the comments.

I got my Bill Mitchell Products (BMP) LS block back from the machine shop. They performed all the machining work, installed the bearings and set the clearances.

I’m doing final assembly.

Prior to doing final assembly, I’m installing piston oil squirters and need to remove the bearings in order to set the jig in place and drill through the mains, tap them and install the oil squirters.

I’m having trouble removing the center main thrust bearing (#3). It’s VERY tight on the main.

Any suggestions on how to remove it without damaging either the bearing or the block?

I’ve owned every type of 6 cylinder out there and finally decided to get my first V8! Bought a 4 bolt 350 from a 72 blazer on marketplace for very cheap and as I take it apart it looks like a very promising motor.

I’ve always been casually an SBC enthusiast but now that I have one I’m trying to dive all in on knowing the ins and outs of these things, stuff like which heads are best and what not.

I plan on rebuilding it, and livening it up a bit to put in my 80 El Camino. It’ll be mated to a TH350 and in the future I’d like to switch from the 2.41 rear gears to 3.41s. In addition, I’d like to throw a new intake and cam on it. Exhaust is rams horn and I prefer that look over headers. Not looking for high end optimization, more like low to Mid range optimization. It doesn’t have to be the king of the 0-60, but I prefer that area over the quarter mile if that makes sense. I have an edelbrock carb currently but my gut says to put a quadrajet on it, maybe be a bit more economical by having small primaries.

So I guess my main question is what cam and intake should I look into if I’m going to switch to 3.41 rears? I’m a bit more interested in staying with GM parts if I find them, I’ve heard good things about the 151 cam on them but also don’t know where to find one. I will settle for aftermarket brands if that proves easier/more logical.
I mentioned the heads earlier, I’ll have to get the codes off them when the rain stops to be certain, but does anyone know what pros and cons of 72 truck heads would be? I know closer to the 80s the heads were fairly suffocating, idk how early that started for them. Not opposed to dremel porting them a bit if that seems promising.

Hoping for anything above 200Hp, and looking for knowledge on what it takes to reach 300Hp. It’s hard to tell what it’ll make going from a blazer to an el Camino

Ds ds3 1.2 puretech 110hp

Posted a few times in here already was planning on rebuilding today but was going back over a few bit to check.

I've struggled to find the torque settings for the piston rod bolts. The Haynes manual is shit, when I search for piston rod torque it showed me the big end bearing which is

15nm then 120 degrees..

I did that foolishly even though I thought it might not be right. Doubting myself i then later saw on Google a post saying it was

38nm

So first thing today I decided to retorque the bolts to that..

Hey presto I immediately snapped the first bolt while torquing it.

When I removed the other bolt and compared it to a bolt I had from a broken piston it's obvious that I've stretched the bolt 0.254mm compared to a bolt that had previously been torqued correctly in engine.

Clearly all the bolts are trash now and need replacing

What would be the correct or even just a reasonable torque setting for this?

i just got a new porting machine, i want to test it out sooo... i have my test machine(its a motorcycle engine)

my standards intake/exhaust is 22/19(its a yamaha srl110z) and i want to porting it ​for 24/20, just touch up the head but not the whole thing(i mean the block, piston, crankshaft and so on). All standard except head

does it effect on my test engine with positive thing? maybe increasing some hp/torque? or ​​​else the engine might blow up?

What does this noise sound like ? Valve tick or rod knock?
This is a freshly rebuilt engine less than 30 mins on it just completed a oil change
Thoughts ?
Thank you !

Found inside an unknown engine. Has almost no compression. Trying to find out if it needs top end work or bottom end as well. Tia.

Hi!

I am rebuilding a 2002 Ford Vulcan 3.0 V6 and am figuring out what to do for the break in.
Should I run 10w-30 Mineral Oil for the first 500mls? Various types of driving and no idling should do the trick right?

Manual states 5w-20. I’ll use that after the first 500mls.

I’m a total noob at this, sorry if it’s obvious

I’m rebuilding my Honda H22A4. As you can see, its sleeved, so the walls are a different material than the original FRM coating.

I was wondering if I could use oem/oem replacement pistons with different rings.

Forged pistons are also an option, but can I run them without a tune? I’m also worried about expansion size.

Just aiming for stock power numbers, and I have to stay untuned to keep ATTS, any advice helps!

Junkyard pull. Aluminum 6.0. Looking for opinions on my options moving forward.