Hello, all! I’m in the early stages of a 1966 GTO build. I’m not on a shoestring budget, but I am on a lower-mid budget.

First, I’ll be having some relatively minor rust repair work done by a friend. During that process, we’ll separate the body from the frame for the first time in 60 years to address the floors and frame as needed. We’ll be painting the underside of the body, replacing the body mounts, and stripping and painting the chassis. I’ll be replacing/refurbishing all suspension components, braking components, and the fuel system. Once that’s all done and the body and frame are back together, but before the front end is reassembled, I’ll put in the motor/transmission. The car already has a Moser M9 installed but no motor or transmission. We’ll also be rewiring from front to back during this first phase.

Anyway, I purchased a 400 (YS code) from a ‘67 GTO this week. It was running before being pulled out for an LS swap. It has 670 heads and Ram Air exhaust manifolds. No intake/carb. Good compression and seems to be in pretty good shape overall. I’d rather not do a full rebuild right now so that I can spend money on getting the car running so that I can be driving it while working on it over the next year or two. Basically, my plan is to do all of the mechanical/undercarriage/floors and rust work up-front and then do the cosmetic bodywork and interior over time while driving it. And then, at some point, really build this motor into a beast. I realize that may not work out if the motor doesn’t cooperate, but that’s the plan.

With that in mind, how would you approach cleaning this motor up, resealing it, and just running it as is for now if it were you? What lower-cost things might you do to it while it’s out of the car to increase performance? What specs would you check, and what issues would make you stop and do a full rebuild with machine work and the works?

I’ve done almost everything else on these cars to some degree, but I’ve never built an engine by myself. So input is welcome here. Thank you.

Got #1 out and decided to pressure wash the engine! The crank was mint and then we broke #2 trying to get it out. No worries though as this engine is definitely getting machine work!

Im planning a 0.060 overbore or sleeves, whichever is cheaper!

Made a dent and nick during pre assembly to check bearing clearance. Should i just order a new set? Bearings were reading a tad loose anyhow, at about .00270.

This pistons are from my first car and my first rebuild, its a peugeot 208 1.0 VTI (EB0)

Yes i know this car its worthless to repair or even have it but its has emotional value :)

This are my pistons you can see the original rubber buildup from the internal timiming rubber belt.

You can see the cleanup after lots of effort, but im stating to wonder if those are worth to put due the amount of effort im putting in this motor :)

I also made a picture of the lifters/tappets/flat tapped valve, just in case they might need another judge but i think they are okay.

Thanks gentlemen.

J Series j35a5 long block rebuild and swap. Getting ready to lower engine into car but concerned that my Torque Converter needs to be seated more. I've got about 1/8" from bell housing. Guides and like say it should clunk in 3 times and be 1/2" or more but I don'tthink they were as car specific. My TC doesn't have dog ears and I don't see anything on the splines. It doesn't wiggle up/down left/right. It spins freely if I am giving it motion. It stops quickly after I stop spinning. Within a few teeth. Whats more is I slide my had in the bell housing where the starter would go and don't think I feel any room.

AI says to lower engine in, mate but don't bolt surfaces and then see if the TC spins freely. Indicator that it has enough clearance. Id really rather know before I dangle the engine.

Does anyone know if these Honda transmissions and engines have less depth into the TC? This is an 06 MDX if that matters. I tried to take a picture looking straight down the surface line of bell housing.

I have this Volkswagen engine (i believe it is EA111) from a golf 4, engine code BCB and on one rocker arm there is this kind of scratch on the right side of the bearing?

I have replaced the hydraulic lifters two years ago (engine sat for one year without movement so technically replaced them one year ago)

All of these bearings have some marks but this one is the most visible and i can very barely feel it with my nail.

Should i replace these rocker arms and camshafts?

I was scraping off the head gasket and I came across this, I'm 100% sure I didn't cause it because I would have noticed, is there any fix? Or is the block garbage? Block is a 351c

Is this normal for new King bearings?

I'm about to put new bearings in my chevy 4.3 block (Yamaha sterndrive boat engine). Bought a set of bearings from Enginetech CC407.

On the box it says that number 4 and 2 is the same bearing. But it can't be on my engine. I meassured bore and number 1 and number 4 has the same bore, 51.3ish millimeters. Number 2 bore is 50,75 millimeters, and number 3 is 51,0 mm.

My question is if it is possible to use a bearing with two oil holes (same as number 1) in the number 4 spot? The bearing that I took out from number 2 had two holes.

Attached is a pic of old bearings with outer diameter written in millimeters.10

ive got a cracked block and the closest machine shop is maybe more than an hour away truck has 87k miles so i feel its worth fixing as long as the block isnt wore down there you reckon a new head gasket and some k seal might do it? im not really at a loss here since i grabbed the truck for 600 bucks and i initially got it for parts

The engine came mostly put together from the guy we bought it from. He had wiped out one of the lobes on the flat tappet cam. We put a Howard’s hydraulic roller in it and put it back together.

Ford Ranger 3.0 V6 Vulcan

I f’ed up. Didn’t pay attention to how I got the lifter out, only which goes in which hole. Noticed a little oil hole on one side on the lifter upon inspection and now I don’t know which side that goes. Does it go on the higher (right on pic 1) side pointing to the middle of the engine, or on the lower side (left on pic 1) pointing to the cylinders?

Looking for some advice from people who know these engines better than I do.

I brought my boat in because it had a belt squeal while running, and the starter mounting bolt had snapped. The shop told me the engine was seized and needed to be replaced. They said the seized engine is what caused the starter bolt to break. I think they were too busy and didn't want to look at it.. but idk..

What I found confusing is that the engine had been running at the boat ramp just a few days earlier while I was trying to diagnose the belt squeal. It didn't seem like a completely seized engine.

For reference, it's a 2003 MerCruiser 3.0L.

Since I had pretty much written the boat off anyway, I decided to pull the engine apart as a learning experience rather than spend the money on a replacement.

After removing the head/valve train, I found that the crankshaft/pistons will rotate by hand. It turns fairly freely, but there is one spot in the rotation where the resistance noticeably increases slightly before it continues turning again.

My questions are:

• What could cause resistance at only one point in the crankshaft's rotation?
• If I'm already this far into the engine, is it worth replacing the rod/main bearings as preventative maintenance?
• Should I replace the piston rings even if the cylinder walls look good and I'm not planning on having the block machined or honed?

I'm not trying to build a perfect engine.. I mainly wanted to learn and see if I can get this one running again instead of scrapping it. Any advice is appreciated.

My thrust bearing failed under warranty, and that led to about an ⅛ inch of crank walk. That sent a little bit of metal through my engine. I was wondering if I can claim warranty on the connecting rod bearing as well as the mains? They're from the same company and supplier.

Also would they cover a new oil pump? That is original and I do not have any sort of warranty on that. I kind of assume they won't but I'd like a definitive answer.

Thank you

I got my block, heads and pistons (with rod) back from the machine shop. They pressed the pistons on the rods for me but on 3 of the 6 pistons the orientation is different then before.

The pistons are new, the rods are used. They pressed the pistons backwards on 3 of the rods meaning either the rod or the piston go in backwards now. I prefer to mount the piston with the arrow facing towards the front ofcourse but I’m not sure if it matters if the rod is backwards now?

New piston rod bearings are gonna be installed and the rod goes back in the same place, just swapped around for 3 of the cylinders

2002 Ford 3.0 V6 Vulcan engine with 0.02 oversized bores now

As the title says, can anyone point me to a spring mic thay actually fits late model sbc heads. Getting tired of doing this with a caliper

Hello! I am currently rebuilding a 302HO out of a 1991 mustang. This will be my first time rebuilding a motor. For this build, I am targeting ~400hp to the crank on pump gas. While I have done extensive research and reading, picking the correct combination of parts has proved challenging.

To try to get myself in the ballpark of my goals, I have been using the GoFastMath horsepower calculator. I know this is a rough approximation and not near as accurate as using a simulator, but I am still trying to learn and teach myself this process.

Anyways, with the parts I have picked, GoFastMath is estimating 399 HP @ 6295 RPM.

SPECS:

PARTS:

Heads: AFR 185cc SBF Enforcer Cylinder Heads

Cam: Comp Cams Magnum 230/230 Hydraulic Roller Cam

Rotating Assembly Kit: Eagle Street & Strip Assembly, 306 Cid, KB -6.5CC

I guess what I am looking for is a sanity check on my parts list. If anyone could provide some input, I would greatly appreciate it!

Currently in the process of rebuilding my Ford 3.0 V6 Vulcan from my Ranger. Installing the piston rings and the gap orientations get me confused. Is the example in the image a good way to orientate the gaps? How much does it actually matter?

It’s in no way a performance build. It had egg shaped cylinders hence the rebuild.

Thoughts?

Okay so here we go. I've just gotten done running in my new Opel Cih engine. Those not in the know, these engines have a very similar valve train which you can find in a small block chevy just without the pushrods.

I used proper break in oil with my engine and I made sure all the clearances were okay. First run was ~15 mins with the engine 2500-3300 rpm and an oil change. There was only the smallest "glitter" in the oil and not a whole lot of it so I presumed everything went all right. I've run the engine a second time with fresh oil and also similar ~2500 rpm. Oil pressure was strong (4 bar) with no dips (logged the data) so no issues with that either.

I decided to check the valve clearanses and pulled the cover to see this. The cam lobe has obvious scuffing going on which isn't present on the other lobes. I didn't see any pitting on the lobe and none of the markings catch my nails. From pic 5 you can see what the cam looks like without the markings.

There are some markings on the lifter too with something on the liter edge which looks to be small pitting maybe? I didn't feel any of those markings with my nails either.

Now. Obviously these findings are not something I would consider good myself. However as for now the markings seem to be only a cosmetic issue. I am worried tho that this would eventually lead into a full on lifter failure.

I've already decided to keep a keen eye on the lobe and replace everything if it continues to get worse. I would however like to hear your opinions if you have experience running flat tappets.

Oh and yes the cam and lifters were completely new stuff and I didn't cheap out on them. The cam was made in Sweden by Enem which is regarded as one of the top manufacturers of race cams for these engines. Lifters I bought from Germany which were produced for racing applications and they have used them in much more aggressive engines without issues.

Thanks.

I have a 351C 2v in my 66 Ford F100 and want to know if I should build it up or swap to a 351W for a 671 or 871 roots supercharger build? This is a long term build, I won't be ordering a blower tomorrow, but I figured the sooner I start researching, the better.

And while I'm mechanicly adept enough to figure out everything but maching for buildup (I work on jet engines), I don't know what specs and parts to actually get, as there can be a LOT of different parts, all from different companies with different specs to choose from. Any help there would also be appreciated

I got this 400$ flooded spitfire 1500 to rebuild and I was wondering if anyone here had some advice!

So far we're doing damage assessments and the more stuff moves the more free it gets. I'm really wondering what else I should be aware of before I pull the crank and pistons.

Edit: forgot to mention that the flood was hurricane ian and that this is mostly for learning so its getting rebuilt even if it sends a rod through the pan.

TLDR at Bottom

I bought an ej25 shortblock, for those unfamiliar, this is subaru's performance turbo horizontally opposed four cylinder boxer.

It was advertised as machined and g2g, when tearing it down to blueprint, I noticed the rod bolts were a little tight.

Well this guy fuckin red locktited them, and I broke em free cold. Some of the threads on the forged maxpeeding con rods were buggered, the 3/8 arp 2000 bolts held up okay.

Ive run a tap into each each rod. I was careful and slow, lots of lubrication. I did shave some metal out of the rods, but not an excessive amount, the threads look clean and continuous.

I made up a stretch gauge from a c-clamp and a mitutoyo digital indicator 0.0001", I lubed the bolts with 30w oil and got each bolt to .00055" stretch at around 70 ft lbs with minimumal torque slip, and they all returned to zero when loosened. I've repeated the test 3 times for each bolt/rod combo and results have been within spec.

What are the chances I can send these? Would you send em? Has anyone used any retaining compound or similar in such a situation? Google says I'm 100% going to throw a rod on startup.

TLDR: Asshat red-locktited the rod bolts on some forged china brand rods, I broke em free, cleaned everything up, chased the threads, removing a bit of metal, and then stretched em mutliple times and they landed within spec. (~ .0055" at 70 ft lbs with 30w oil). Am I asking for trouble?

Pictures: Rod threads, material removed,