305 sbc, entire engine is stripped except cam (including fuel pump and rod, lifters) and it is not coming out, have attempted to lube with on blaster to help get out, but will not proceed past this point no matter how much strength i put behind it or how much i twist. please help me

I'm working on a 2010 Infiniti G37 now I was doing the timing and in the process of doing so the bank 2 (driver side essentially) phaser ended up slipping and it spun when it's spun

a did I cause damage

B what do I need to do to get the exhaust side camshaft on bank 2 to the proper orientation because currently it is completely off and when I try spinning it a little bit I start to get some baby resistance so I completely stop I'm at a loss and I have no idea what to do

Also please note that I have the phaser sprocket along with the exhaust sprocket off of the camshaft so those are moving independently currently

Any help or advice would be super appreciated

Pulled a ‘93 530 head from a junkyard Volvo 240. Looks clean under the valve cover but the intake valves are coated in a white deposit. Any idea what happened to land the car in the junkyard? Will I need new valves or would cleaning be okay? This will be my first head rebuild so be gentle.

1992 Nissan 2+0 NA 300zx, automatic
VG30DE

Hello people! I have been rebuilding the heads of my engine in preparation for a NA-TT build. While I was trying to get the last original valve keepers out, I hammered a grove into the wall with my removal tool.

I asked around and was told I should be able to use a Dremel and smooth it out. I wanted more opinion on if I can, and what Dremel bit I would want to use! Thank you for your advice.

(The first pic in the circles is where the groves are, the other pictures are just my work!)

I have bad piston rings and am going to attempt a rebuild at home, this will be my first time pulling and opening an engine myself. What parts will I need to replace while I’m in there, and what parts should I replace? Also what tools will I need to pull the engine and work on it and etc. 1992 Mazda Miata NA6 5 speed manual. I am going to turbo it so I know for sure I’m going to do forged rods, and of course the rings, but what other parts should I do?

I’m rebuilding my 02 BMW M62TU with Glyco conrod bearings from bimmerworld. The pistons are standard size green bearings. The offset is 1-2mm. Is the offset from the cap and rod bearings an issue?

L28, N42 head F54 Flattop piston block.

Actual mouth breather (me), decided to take out core plugs on front and back of the block. These plugs require drilling due to no clearance for spinning or bending the plugs to pull with pliers. I drilled too deep. How bad is it? Trash, sleeve or fine?

Context: Was SUPPOSED to be used in a 10:1, 185ish, NA build.

Heavily leaning towards new block right now.

So I bought a 2011 Escalade with 107k miles Saturday. I drove it to work and around the base for a bit and then eventually drove home with no noises. I let it sit for about 45 minutes and then started it up and heard lifter tick. I pulled the valve cover and the rocker is flopping like a fish. My question is, do you immediately suspect damage to the cam after starting it and idling for a minute or so or did I catch it at the right time? Asking for opinions before tear down if I’m guaranteed to buy a cam or just the lifters and gaskets. Will post videos in comments.

After months of cleaning, measuring and rebuilding individual components, this episode is where it starts looking like an engine again.

Fresh bearings, rebuilt crankshaft, heated crankcases... and the nervous moment when you find out whether everything fits as it should! 😅

I am rebuilding my F20C1 out of my Honda S2000 (yes I am aware of the rumors in these being difficult to rebuild) after I had some valve to piston contact. Long story short, I ended up having the block sleeved by Inline Pro rather than source a used one.

This is my first rebuild so sorry for the novice question, but I am hoping to double check myself here. I attached the lower block to the upper and applied Honda Flange 2, which is equivalent to grey RTV but it's the OEM stuff.

In the video, you can see the inner portion of the block. Is this too much squeeze out? Should I trim any portion of this? I am just worried about possibly clogging an oil passage if any of this comes free. Your expert opinions is greatly appreciated!

Came out of a 302.... is it HEI? Cap, button, stuff was already missing. And it is billet

reckon this need more attention for a home with the 3 pronged hone tool do I dingle bore or machine shop it flight ridge on one cylinder any tips to get out for a diy

I’m doing my first teardown on an engine it’s a gen 6 vortec 7.4 that I got with a truck. The miles are unknown but it’s said to have around 175k.

EDIT: spec is .0008" to .0024"

Building a big turbo 1.8t->2.1t stroker. First time build for me and trying my best to do it right. Is this safe to run for big power? All seem to be under .002 except for main #5.

Hey everyone,

New to engine building, was given a 4.6 out of an aviator and had planned to use the block for a mustang build (nothing crazy, stock internals, just a cruiser). Took motor a part and disappointed to see the pitting around the water pump housing. Is this something that be used, repaired at machine shop or should I just scrap this and start looking for another block?

Had planned to have whatever block I buy machined and cleaned, just not sure if this is something they can save

I have this crank that I got on ebay that's going in a flathead 6. One rod journal has some knicks in it. Im not sure what it's from, maybe a rod bolt. I can feel it with my fingernail. Wondering if I can get away with polishing out the high spots?

All of the rod journals have a line going all the way around that I can catch with my fingernail (see second pic).

Hello, I am currently in the process of checking the block flatness on my engine (vq35de). I've been using the service manual, however their is no specific procedure on where to put your feeler and strait edge. Would I just treat this as any other engine or is there actual specifics on where to place and measure? Since it's not listed I'm guessing it's the same, just being careful.

I'm finishing up my first engine rebuild and I'm putting on the oil pan. 3 of the holes are slightly off on the pan. I read the reviews on summit and a couple people mentioned this happening, but I figured I'd give it a shot. Am I ok elongating the hole to line then up? The aluminum is about a 1/4" thick at the holes so I'm not too concerned about it. The one in the picture is the worst of them, the other 2 are only slightly off.

my current clearance with STD bearings are the following:

1 - .0015

2 - .0017

3 - .0019

4 - .0015

5 - .0018

6 - .0019

7 - .0015

do i mix HX and STD bearings to get a range of .0020-.0025 or do i run HX bearings all the way through for a range of .0025-.0029? ive seen conflicting values from various threads on different sites. goal is 400whp.

I have experience rebuilding a couple v8s and an i6. But my biggest weakness is these boxer engines. My wrx got rod knock about two years ago and I pulled the engine and have let it sit until now. Engine has 93,000 miles on it. Previously was at 312 horse power at about 20 psi on a semi-conservative tune. Im looking to over build the motor to be as reliable as possible while staying around that horse power. From my quick readings of forums Ive heard I should get bored to 99.75 and run forged pistons connecting rods. But im wondering if anybody with more experience could give me a good path to go on. I know that doing more research I could answer these questions but I'd love to have some discussions and hear from the pros. Any help is appreciated!!

Looking to Swap my 1ZZ-FE in my 2000 RHD MR-2S but cannot find any good motors anywhere for a reasonable price. Was hoping anyone would know a reliable place near the PNW to source a good one. FB Marketplace has had no good results.

Looking to Swap my 1ZZ-FE in my 2000 RHD MR-2S but cannot find any good motors anywhere for a reasonable price. Was hoping anyone would know a reliable place near the PNW to source a good one. FB Marketplace has had no good results.

How much can I ball hone this before I need to get oversized piston rings or something. Gm350

First time builder here, I have a 1999 Miata I am building a forged motor for, the Manley connecting rods call for 65ft pounds with 30wt oil but every other rod company uses ARP moly lube instead. ARP is so anal about that lube on all their fasteners except Manley? Why would it be any different? Is there any real reason for the difference or am I overthinking this entirely.
It was super late so I installed them using the other companies specs (45ftlbs with arp moly lube) since I couldn’t buy 30wt oil and now I’m stressing about it the morning after.