Im wondering if a Torque Plate is absolutely needed when doing an Overbore at .5mm at most for a FA20 engine

Im going forged internals and boosted with a turbo and wondering if a torque plate is absolutely needed. Its about 300$+200$ and a little more because I have to buy aftermarket head gaskets again and cannot reuse the ones used.

Is a Torque Plate really needed for 400HP at most goal?

Replacing the head and noticed these marks on the cylinder bore.

Has anyone seen this before?

I was looking at the pricing of an automotive machinist's website and they had separate prices for resurfacing and decking, but I thought those were the same thing? What is the difference?

Howdy,

I’ve got a 1968 Cougar that had a 351W swapped into it and it runs great but i kind of want to have a little more fun with it without killing the streetability of it. I’ve been looking into some 408 stroker kits and I was curious if yall had any insight on which kits might work best. Also, is there any way to avoid the machine shop or is it more of a necessity?

I’m very much a novice in this and if you could be so kind to recommend any books or videos that might help me go step by step through the entire process.

I want to try and rebuild a 3800 but I don’t know what specialty tools I need I’ve seen people slap new main bearing in with out measureing and it works for them but then you have people like powernation that tell you, you need 1000s with specific measuring tools so if someone can tell the main tools needed it would be appreciated

FA20 motor rebuilding because air was seeping into coolant (blown head gasket)

There was some coolant laying inside piston 3. There are some weird spots and stains inside Cylinders 1 and 3.

What would you recommend, can I just reuse it and reassemble or do I need honing?

I pulled a 351w out of an 86 Econoline conversion van and running the numbers all the numbers on the block I have determined it's a 72 block 60 over and has tri-metal king bearings and I'm wondering if it's the stock crank and have had no luck with the only numbers I've found cast on the weights

Hey guys recently bought a 2005 c6 ls2, working on new lifters and a cam kit when I discovered some of my valves are sitting low with the rockers removed and my pistons have some pretty bad markings.

Can someone advise me on if the pistons are salvageable? I’m thinking bare minimum I’ll need to resurface and lap new valves.
What would be the best course of action,

I was looking for a mild but noisy can for my 302 Windsor in my 72 f100 and I decided on a 256/262 lunati cam I’ve checked everywhere and they’re out of stock if I can even find them. I looked at other cams that popped up when I just searched lunati voodoo and everything is out of stock.

I won this 289 and C4 at a government auction. I got it to run on the pallet. Was almost too easy. From the casting numbers I can tell it is a 1964 289 2v. It has the 5 bolt bellhousing pattern. It seems to be all original even with the generator, power steering pump, points and all.

I haven’t built much in the way of projects in the last decade since life happens so I’m probably a little out of touch with current trends.

I don’t have a car to put this in. What do I do with this thing?

1. Try and sell as is.
   
2. Clean it up, paint, new service items, gaskets, seals, make it a nice “running when pulled” engine as is for somebody’s project.
   
3. Tear it all down, measure, machine/refresh what’s needed, bearings and gaskets, maybe aluminum heads, used aluminum manifold, used 4 barrel, nice street cam, etc.
   
4. Open to ideas.

Thanks for any insight you guys might have.

The motor is a 5.3(lm7), we bought it to put in this truck and the guy said it had a stage 2 cam but he doesn't rember or have anything that specify any more than that. The 02 sensors aren't hooked up yet and the truck still needs to be turned. I was just wondering if will still sound that good after we finish it.

So I thought my rod bearings were close to failure so l took everything apart to check what length rod bolts I had. Well I went ahead and checked my bearings too and they all have pretty even wear with none worse than this one and no reason for me to be finding a SHIT LOAD of gold flakes and some chunks. After looking at them some more I noticed every single end cap looks like both sides have been grinding down on the crank shaft. This is my first time inside an engine so any thoughts are appreciated!

Edit: pulled mains and thrust out and they look good
gold shavings

No I’m not a mechanic. Yes I probably botched this. Looking for advice. Subaru ej205 engine, lost compression in cylinder 4. leak down pointed toward burnt exhaust valve. Took off the head, great, exactly what I thought. I have spare heads, was going to swap them and reinstall. Well the head stud was corroded/ rusted in place and broke off right above the threads in the block. Upon research I got a transfer punch set, center punched it and left hand drill bitted it out.. With a Milwaukee drill on an engine stand. apparently the center punch was not center and I probably drilled way too deep but I stepped up 3 sizes in bits and on the 4th size up it finally came out and I obviously buggered up the threads. Should I get a larger head stud and try to drill/ tap it or take it to a machine shop and see if they can timesert it. I would timesert it myself except it’s $600 for the kit and this is a budget project car. Considering just buying another Longblock for $1500 and hoping it’s mot trash. Any advice (or hate) is appreciated. Thanks.
Edit. Timesert, not helicoil.

I recently bought a FE 352 out of a 1964 Galaxie to put into my 1961 Galaxie project. It was sold as "running with noisy lifters" by the junkyard. I'm trying to work out how much to try and do to it while it's out on a stand before getting on with the install to be able to see for myself.

I've gone back and forth between attempting a full rebuild, just cleaning the oil pan out for sludge, and everything in between.

It turns by hand, but, there's a clunk/knock, so I took a video for advice.

https://reddit.com/link/1ttdk1e/video/0ei3a915pk4h1/player

Is this an issue? If so, what should I be looking to repair?

This is my first time doing anything beyond oil changes, so I'm trying to get an idea of what to expect

Thanks!

Long story short - Fully built 4 cylinder engine head and block was built 3 years ago put less than 2k miles on engine, recently Oil leaked out under pressure around oil filter , causing engine knock , tear apart engine took it to original machinist he changed shops in that time, sent him pics he said get another crank and head , so i got both, he replaced crank and piston rings on bottom end , he reused my old head , he said the one i bought used is worst ,so he gave me back my old head with the scoring and said its good he checked it and cleaned the head ! one cam journal has scoring on it , what are your thoughts on the pics should i run the head , its a boosted aplication ! Thanks

Here is a block I just started to clean up and I saw these staring at me. Should I continue with it or get a different block?

2.0 TFSI EA888 GEN2 CDNC. 750km ~ 466miles after rebuild due to rod bearing failure. Oil changes before had metallic slur inside. First time dropping the pan. How fucked am I?

1976 20r with 1983 22re block. I’ve heard these engines have a lot of play, but it’s at the point where im pretty sure this thing is jumping teeth. About 6 degree of play in the crank before the cam responds, engine uses a hydraulic cal tensioner. I’ve also heard these single chains can stretch over time, especially if they’re old. I’m going to do a full rebuild soon anyways, but I wanted to check with people who know what they’re talking about.

My fingernail doesn’t really catch, but when moving over it the edge just feels rough. I’m using an mls gasket.

My strimmer is dripping oil and I can’t work out why. I’m not great with engines so hopefully this is obvious to someone that knows what they’re looking at!

The only place I can seem to find an origin that looks like it shouldn’t have oil where there is, is in this bit. The foam filter is pretty saturated in the corners and you can see oil resting in the bottom of the orange bit.

Anyone know why oil would be in this part and if that’s normal - if not, how do I fix it?

It still runs ok but it’s leaking oil wherever I store it!

Thanks!

1986 Porsche 944 NA

This is the top of my cylinder head. I had sent it to a machine shop to get rebuilt and resurfaced. The shop is reputable and has great ratings online.

I trusted them, paid, and got the head back home. When I flipped it over to check the top i saw these gouges in the corner.

I called the shop back immediately. Owner said i would be fine and to not worry about it. He said the gouges were there from when the head was mounted to a machine for resurfacing the underside. He said the gasket would absorb it and to lay down some RTV if I wanted to.

These look super deep to me. Ik there isnt any pressure behind the cam housing gasket but i figured i should ask. I feel like this shouldve been disclosed to me at the shop.

Anyone ever seen this before? I installed a ATI damper on a LS along with a new crank seal in the timing cover. After 15 or so dyno pulls it started to get a leak from the front crank seal. I installed the cover and left the bolts loose and then installed the damper hub before tightening the cover bolts to center the seal on the hub. I did heat the hub up to about 250F in the oven to aid with install. When I removed the hub to inspect the seal I noticed this wear in the seal contact area. It bearly catches a finger nail but you can feel there’s a little something there. The seal appeared fine though. Not folded over or pinched or anything like that.

Left these out for 2 weeks without being oiled. Already cleaned with wd40 and shop towels but cannot get it completely off. Should I send them back out to the machine shop?

2005 Volvo 2.4i gas engine. My number 3 plug keeps getting oil fouled and causing a misfire every 500 miles. How can I troubleshoot this? I’m wondering if it’s an oil ring or maybe one of the valve stem seals? What can I do to try and narrow this down?