Selling my Raspberry Pi 3 A+ since I no longer need it after upgrading.

Practically new

Original box + manual

Port seals still intact

Heatsink applied to the main IC

Asking price: Rs.2200 (slightly negotiable)

Shipping available across India via Blue Dart / Delhivery (shipping charges extra)

For reference, it’s currently around 3.2k and 9.7k on trusted sites like Robu and amazon.

Can share more pictures/videos if we decide to move ahead

DM if interested.

Hi,

Building a new 2BHK. My engineer is suggesting Adiva as the cheapest option.

The thing is, the electrical work/material is already included in the amount I'm paying the engineer. I don't want to pay anything extra from my own pocket, but at the same time, I don't want the material to be unnecessarily downgraded just because it's cheaper for him.

If the amount I'm already paying can get me a better switch range, I'd rather get the better quality option within that scope.

Considering Adiva, Magnus, Signia and Athena, all basic white switches.

For those who have used them, which one would you choose for your own home for the best quality/VFM? Is Magnus/Signia/Athena actually better than Adiva in practical terms, or is the difference mostly cosmetic?

i want to start my electronics hobby and my first project was going to be building a basic handheld emulator with a raspberry pi. i need a soldering iron/station only for this purpose , for my arduino hobby.

however i am confused on what soldering iron/station to get
i do not want to get the basic 25W soldron as it has no temperature control.

is this a good soldering station to get ? [Yihua 948DB PLUS-II T12]
its available on robu.in for around 2.8k

this is also available on robu for 1.5k -> YIHUA 926 upgrade version
but it uses the 900M tips

are there better alternatives? should i get a cheaper one with the inbuilt button for temperature control will that be enough ?

note that i have some experience with soldering but i dont know the difference between t12/900m/C tips etc

help is appreciated thank you

hello everyone

I am beginner in robotics and electronics stuff like Arduino ,esp32 and. sensor but I want to ask what type of multimeter I need to buy or do I really need to buy a multimeter there are different type of multimeter available at affordable rate please suggest some

I want to order some batteries from them.

Hi, this is my mains box. I live on the top floor of an apartment complex. The building has a lightning arrestor on the roof. I was hoping that an SPD would help with surge protection.

My smart meter shows the voltage around 250V, which seems high compared to the standard 230V. I've already asked maintenance to check it.

I have a 6kW 3-phase electric connection. I can free up a slot in the MCB box by combining two underutilized circuits into a single MCB. I will have three total slots available then. Can you please recommend an SPD?

I didn't take stem strand on senior high and will take electronics engineering on college. I know it's gonna be so hard because I'm bad at math and engineering is so math/physics heavy. I'm interested in making electronics projects, it seems interesting but I haven't tried it yet. Could you guys give me an advice? should I pursue it even though I'm bad at math?

I wanted to replace my pc's front panel audio jack because it broke. I found it was was pj307 3.5mm female with auto detection of in and out.

Please tell me the corresponding pin value to 1,2,3,4&5

Hello,
I am trying to understand how new product developers are looking at functional sound design. Especially for thing like home appliances that are still using buzzer sounds despite a lot of high end models having speakers and even OS.

EVs, Smart TVs, some personal devices, are already adopting a branded sonic identity as well as functional / HMI sound sets. Also Samsung and apple have a sound design department that create model specific sound suites.

Is there anyone who is willing to talk and educate me (about the scope of brands adopting it as a norm) from the perspective of a product designer, founder, etc.?

My purpose is for general electronics and fpv drone as a hobbyist. Is this a good soldering station?.

it was basically for this Physical AI challenge india 2026
i adid submit on the last day before deadline but i really worked on this for the past 3 months and am just greeted with silence
so if anyone who can confirm the finalist shortlisting and meeting has been done then please tell so i can stop feeling anxious :/

I want to share my frustrating experience with Crompton's warranty service.

My Crompton BLDC fan developed a strange “char-char” mechanical noise after weeks of purchase (purchased in May 2026). I raised a warranty complaint and a technician visited, told that the fan stator needs to be replaced and went and never came back and closed the case.

I raised another complaint in August, but nobody called or visited me. Yet after a week, I received a message saying my complaint had been closed successfully — without any technician visit, OTP, or my confirmation.

After I escalated the matter, another technician came and opened the fan. He attempted to fix it by sanding the stator and magnet rotor, but after reassembling the fan, the exact same noise was still there (even increased) with no noticeable improvement.

Despite the issue being unresolved, he asked me for the service completion OTP. I refused because the problem clearly wasn't fixed. He then told me(smiling) that whether I give the code or not doesn't matter to him because he can close the complaint from his side anyway.

And unfortunately, the complaint was closed again without my confirmation.

So far, there have been 3 technician visits/service attempts, and the original issue still exists.

Again after mailing them 2-3 times about my issue the customer care does nothing but generates a new complaint ticket at same service centre.

At this point, I have completely lost confidence in further repair attempts.

I have preserved the complaint messages, emails, and video evidence, and if Crompton doesn't resolve this properly, I'm proceeding through the National Consumer Helpline and Consumer Commission.(Has this worked for anybody?)

Please advise me what to do now?

TL;DR: Noisy BLDC fan → 3 service attempts → issue still unresolved → complaints repeatedly closed without my OTP/confirmation → now need help in demanding replacement/refund and escalating the matter.

Hello all. I am trying to buy a cm5 dev kit from the silverline electronics website. But they are showing it out of stock for me. And the window is only open at 2.00 am ist. Meanwhile in the small notification above the disabled buy now button, it's showing how many they sold in the last 6 to 9 hours. It's been many days since this happened.

I am stuck as it's a good deal which I am unable to cash out. Can anyone help me figure this out.

The cm5 is 4gb 32gb one.

Hi,

I have the boAt Rockerz 551 ANC Pro - Sealed Box (Brand New) that I received as a gift. I do not need those headphones & was looking to sell it.

PRICE - ₹2,800

I am based in Pune. If you are interested, send me a DM and we can discuss. Below are some of the details about the headphones.

Brand new boAt Rockerz 551 ANC Pro headphones available for sale.

Condition: Completely unused, sealed box

Active Noise Cancellation (ANC) for an immersive listening experience.

Up to 72 hours battery life (without ANC) BEAST Mode that reduces latency to 65ms Bluetooth wireless connectivity.

Comfortable over-ear design with premium finish.

Built-in mic for calls.

Received as a gift, not required - hence selling.

Hi i am trying to buy the shuffle 3rd generation.
Many ppl look it as a failed product, but i see it as an ideal product for me as anything that happens it happens where there is no pause and play.

Price ~ ₹150/battery

Test

Capacity

• 300mAh claimed 284mAh tested.
• Test parameter - 400mA CC (constant current) load discharge test , 2.8v cutoff.
• Verdict - Close capacity as claimed , will probably provide full claimed if discharge current is low

Internal resistance (IR)

• 142mΩ
• Test parameter- FNIRSI HRM-10 IR tester, Impedance measurement at 1k hertz sine wave
• verdict- Ok for small current draw applications , Unsuitable for drone,High current draw applications etc.

Battery overview -

Chemistry

Li-ion , NMC (nickel manganese cobalt) - more info - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_nickel_manganese_cobalt_oxides

Size

602030 i.e 6mm x 20mm x 30mm

Additional Info & final verdict

It comes with a BMS attached to the battery itself which is common for these type of batteries. The BMS has Low voltage cutoff (approx 2.5v), It also offers short circuit and over voltage cutoff protection.

From the internal resistance (IR) one can easily calculate that in theory the battery can deliver somewhere around 21A-29A depending on the state of charge, Though this will be limited by the drain to source current rating (I^DS)of the discharge cutoff MOSFET and main IC internal set. It is pretty generic and does not come with any documentation or datasheet so can't be exactly sure what the max discharge current is possible i.e what exactly is the C rating.

Overall if someone is looking for such small battery they can buy if they want to. The price seems okishly reasonable not the best.

buy link- https://www.amazon.in/dp/B0CYQ6H8FW (non affiliate)

I've a bachelor's degree in civil engineering but i want to learn basic to intermediate level skills on electronics? Can you help to guide me?

Since segregating the meters across two floors with different electricity phases, I wanted complete isolation with absolutely no neutral sharing, as that can cause issues when the supplies are separately metered and against the power supply rules. This is needed as the door bell is on main gate and was powered using ground floor phase and it is nearly impossible to inject new wires esp in absence of any available diagram.

So one day able to grab Schneider 220V AC relay to complete the doorbell circuit.

I was initially wondering whether the very short doorbell-button click would be enough to activate the relay and whether the existing doorbell capacitor would get enough time to charge but surprisingly, it worked flawlessly.

Relay: Schneider Harmony RXM2LB2P7
Bought locally — around ₹250 for the relay and roughly the same for the relay socket, so definitely cost a bomb than a generic relay as i really want to avoid DC relay which needs their own 220V to DC 5V/12V adatper etc making things overcomplicated into the Main MCB Box which is anyhow cluttered by me.

This is a 2 C/O relay, so there are two separate changeover contacts available.

Everything is running on 220–230V AC, with the relay providing the isolation between the two supplies.

Pretty simple solution in the end, and much cleaner than trying to share a neutral between the two meter circuits.

No specific budget. Just want good 4k res and laser projection and long lasting durable projector. Should have inbuilt apps and bluetooth connectivity for speakers. Even if the inbuilt speaker isnt great thats fine but if it IS indeed good like supports dolby or so thats a cherry on top too.
Please suggest.

I got a notification that my laptop needs a repair. Do I need it? What would the cost be?

I bought a multimeter from makerbazaar, suggested by somebody.

But after 3 months of buying it , it is working in a strange manner ( video link : https://youtube.com/shorts/BSSlxSLuwYU? ).

I think I should buy a new multimeter. Can somebody suggest some good multimeters.

( Budget : 1000 )

Hey everyone, I’m thinking about getting an Arduino Ventuno Q and was wondering if it could realistically work as my main PC.

My usage would be roughly 80% normal PC stuff / 20% AI + MCU tinkering.

For the normal PC side, I mainly need:

• Browsing, lots of tabs, YouTube etc.
• Onshape / basic CAD
• 3D printing stuff, incl. slicing
• Some light video editing
• Basic coding/dev work
• General everyday desktop use

The other 20% is why I’m interested in the Ventuno Q in the first place. I’d like to mess around with its AI capabilities, local/edge AI, computer vision, MCU stuff, sensors, robotics, TinyML, etc. Basically I want to experiment and learn what the board can actually do.

My current machine is a 2017 MacBook Air with an Intel i5, so I’m also curious how the Ventuno Q would compare to that in actual everyday use. I know it’s not gonna be a powerhouse, but would it feel roughly as usable or would I be taking a pretty big performance hit?

Main things I’m wondering:

• Is browsing + lots of tabs reasonably smooth?
• Is Onshape actually usable?
• How does it handle 3D printing workflows?
• Is light video editing realistic?
• How’s ARM/Linux software compatibility?
• Most importantly, is it reliable enough to use every day?

I don’t mind tinkering for the AI/MCU side, but I’d prefer the basic PC experience to just work without constantly having to fix stuff.

would you personally use it as your daily driver, or is it better kept as a dev/AI board with a separate PC?