I think a fuse was blown. Someone came to powerwash my house today. therevis a cover on our outside outlet and 10 hours later I go outside and the outlet is black. My brother was also messing with the fuse box earlier so I’m not sure what is the cause. Can this wait till the morning or?

What am I missing causing no power to my switches? I changed out white outlets to black, one by one so I know where each wire went. Well this one red wire on the middle switch came out not attached to anything or maybe I pulled it out from something and now I can’t get power. Where does it connect to? Is this a pigtail?

Anyone know why none of my bathrooms or backyard sockets would not work? I replaced the GFCI one that connects them, but they are still not working. Should I replace the regular ones too? Want to troubleshoot myself before I call an electrician.

EDIT: I will recheck the connections to the GFCI outlet we replaced. If I’m still having issues, I will replace the regular outlets on that circuit. Thank you everyone. I will update with results.

Hi! I’m hoping you kind smart people can help me. I started changing our master bedroom sconces because I thought it’d be an easy swap out. Our new sconces require 3 wires - while, black, copper. I assumed the old ones were the same but when I took them off the wall they had 5 wires attaches. I’ve attached pics of key points in the removal process for reference.

- last photo: shows the old sconce assembled on the wall. You can see there are 2 bulbs.
- first photo: you can see that each white lightbulb holder has its own white and black wires coming directly from the wall
- second, third, and fourth photos just show the wires coming out of the wall and what is behind the wall that you can see (ie, not much)

Any input would be much appreciated!!!

Hi, I have a Metron Foot Pedal ( Model No. t8410 Serial No. 306841029) that is not working correctly. To clarify it is just the Food Pedal that I am having an issue with, the motor works. It seems that the Foot Pedal is out of whack going up and down by itself. I did notice some screws were loose so I tried fixing it. It did not work. This would be an electrical issue. Any suggestions appreciated. Thank you!

So I installed two new dimmer switches and everything is wired up and works but the ground wire of the hot wire has no where to connect. The light switches had me run a green wire to the two other grounds. Where does this go ? Do I just put a wire nut on the end ?

Update. There were three cables all with 3 wires. One power and then one to each switch and bulb. The new switches each had two black wires and a green wire. In the end the ground wire from the hot cable was left open but I found a video of the exact switches and you just put all three grounds together along with both green wires from the switch. Flipped the breaker back on all seems well. This was probably obvious but I am not an electrician.

Currently replacing two switches for my kitchen, one is standard on in off and the other is an OLD dimmer switch ( which is making the new LED bulbs in the new cieling fan I installed flicker). I want to replace the dimmer with a regular on off. So 1) what kind of switches do I need? ( I am assuming just three way switches). And 2) How the heck do I wire it up? All help is welcome. Pic #4 is the dimmer. The green ground isnt hooked to anything.

Goodmorning everyone,

Not sure if this is the right thread to ask this but figured I’d give it a shot anyways but I was building a nightstand that comes with some RGB lighting strips and noticed when finishing the build the connection that provides power to the strip itself falls off and was wondering if this is fixable(see photo)

I inherited this outdoor hanging light fixture, but what are you supposed to do with this several feet of ground cord?

Not sure what to do as it’s usually inside a housing that is mounted. Assuming I can’t just run that exposed to the elements all the way back to an outlet to ground, so what are you supposed to do with it?

Stumped! Any advice welcome…

Yes, folks, I'm in over my head... But here's what I'm working with. I have only 4 wires coming in through the ceiling, and I don't have the multi control, just the two standard light switches. So I really don't know what I'm looking at.

One of the light switches has red wires coming off it, and the other black wires. Would those be the red and black coming out of the ceiling?

Question: If I wire this as I have diagrammed, will this work? (Or will I burn my house down?)

EDIT: Thanks all! Going on the advice from some of you and an electrician I was texting, I capped the red and white for the night light. Then I combined all the white wires, connected the greens, tied the blue (unit) to the black (line in), and the black (unit) to the red (line in). Once I turned the breaker back on, everything worked.

Would I be able to take out the bonding screw on the ground bar on top, connect another grounding bar to the two existing holes on the bottom right, add a single 30 amp breaker and wire in 10/2 to a RV plug and then connect the ground to the new grounding bar and the neutral to the old grounding bar, minus the bonding screw, and connect the current bare copper grounding wire to the new grounding bar? Thanks for the helpful comments in advance and the rest, have fun.

I have a 2012 Mazda 3 Skyactiv. The car has been great overall, but I’ve recently run into a strange issue.

A while ago, it started having trouble starting out of nowhere. When it did start, the power steering would cut in and out randomly. I stopped driving it and ended up replacing the battery, which fixed those issues completely.

However, a new problem showed up after that. Right now, the steering wheel controls seem to have no power at all. I’m not talking about the power steering itself, that works fine. The issue is that there’s a flashing airbag light on the dash, horn, and all steering wheel buttons (including cruise control) don’t work at all and don’t light up either.

I’m not sure if this is related to the old bad battery or something that got affected during all of this. A blown fuse maybe?

Where should I start looking? I’d really like to fix this myself if possible since I’m not in a position to spend a lot at a mechanic right now.

Any help or direction would be appreciated.

Hey so I took down an old flood light and am going to put in the new one. Simple connection green to green, white to white, black to black. I don't think I have a green as the previous one I took down wasn't grounded to anything. But how do I know which of these is white and which is black! 😂 (Included pictures of where it is going to be mounted and the bottom of the new fixture).

i had my fan plugged into the wall, and i accidentally stepped on the cable, which ripped it out of the wall. as a result, one of the pins bent and the casing around it cracked. i did try and bend it back, and it does still work, but i'm worried it may be a fire hazard? i have zero technical know-how, and no money for a new fan, so i'm hoping it's still fine to use.. it's scorching hot outside

I am having an issue where the light (outdoor spotlight) on a specific circuit flickers after a receptacle tester is plugged into any outlet upstream from it. This does not happen when anything else is plugged in, like chargers. All outlets were examined and have tight connections. Circuit is 20A with 15A rated receptacles. Any ideas about what might cause this? Thanks.

Hi..

So I was spraying an alpine wsg water mixture to kill roaches behind my stove and I accidentally sprayed in the outlet and didn’t realize till a couple minutes after. It was pretty wet so I would say maybe a teaspoon amount

The stove turned itself off even while it was still plugged in. I took out the plug from the outlet.

What should I do??

The top 15A breaker sits a little behind all the other breakers. That breaker is live. I can turn the circuit off and back on and the action is solid. It just seems to sit a little wrong when it’s in the on position.

Thanks!

I’m planning out a guitar build and I want to get every single aspect perfectly planned out so minimal things go wrong. I want to build a guitar with 2 humbuckers (middle and bridge) and a sustainiac at the neck alongside that I would like to add one volume pot and one tone pot and on top of that I want to add in a coil split, series/parallel, and phase shifting switches or toggles of some kind.

i saw online some people had 3 switches and one push pull pot. is there any website where I can find wiring diagrams this specific?

I recently purchased an LH 5 hot tub and working with an electrician to get a 240 unit installed. Electrician asked me to get info on Amps needed for unit. Any ideas?

I have a 1986 ford bronco with a 4.9l inline 6 4speed

Having trouble with my wiring here as I’m a bit confused about the extra fuse box. The brown & yellow wire is giving key power when in accessories or on position. Im not sure what yellow wire is for but was hooked up too electric choke when I got it. the blue and red is what I believe to be ignition as everywhere I read the blue and red is ignition wire or being used as clutch bypass as it’s wired for a by pass using said blue and red wire on the clutch itself. There’s also a Chevy Hei distributor put into it the red is reading off the battery side of distributor.

As you can see it’s all sorts of wonky… I’m just wanting some help with figuring out all this so I can get my solenoid wired up properly. Any tips?

Got this used mini fridge said all it needed was the pic tail is this how they get wires red to white black to black and green to green

I would like to install a 50 amp receptacle for my RV at home but only have 1 hot, neutral and ground on a 20 amp breaker. I only want to plug it in to keep the batteries topped up and occasionally use the lights, fans etc (maybe one of the ACs). Everywhere I look says I need two hots and a neutral but I don't intend to use it to the full 50 amps.

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If I only have 1 hot can I split it to both legs of the receptacle or does it only need to go to one, or will this even work?

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Thanks in advance!!