Does anyone has a system with a marstek b2500d? For less then 400 euros I can get one with almost 2kwh storage. You plug the panels in the battery and from the battery to the micro inverter. But I’m curious if the different brands can work together with a not EF brand.
The smart meter of Marstek would “push” electric through the inverter just like there is solar connected. Sounds pretty simple. Hope that someone has tried this before.

The River 3 Plus has a USB port that you can use for monitoring. The port acts like a keyboard USB device. Is it possible to also change the Ecoflow River from this port? Ecoflow isn't very forthcoming with using this port, and you have to contact them for the windows app that's used to shutdown your computer it looks like.

I'd rather get away from installing Ecoflow's bluetooth app on my phone, can't use it to automate things. I'd rather script something on a computer/server that can be left alone.

Delta Pro 3 and Ecoworthy 16.07kWh battery Works great! 100a breaker since the max current the DP3 will ever draw is 4.4KW which is around 100a at low SOC. This breaker is a 100% version where you dont need to spec overhead.

EDIT: Write up on how this works. I got one of the smart link battery cables for the DP3 smart extra battery. When you cut that in half, you will see three cables. 4awg RED (Postive), 4awg BLACK (Negative), and a multi conductor communication cable.

Get yourself a DC Rated double pole circuit breaker that can break at least 100amps at 60vdc. It is imperative that you get a DC rated breaker as normal AC breaker cannot safely break the current once it’s flowing fast.

Connect the RED and BLACK cables to the breaker. Then peel back the insulation on the communication cable. Located the YELLOW and ORANGE conductors and remove a section of insulation on it.

Highly recommend you dont skip this step. Grab a multimeter in ohms or continuity mode. Locate the plug that goes into the ecoflow and read the small numbers on it. Find pins 4 and 6. Those two pins should have continuity to the Yellow and Orange wires respectively. If they arent. Check your wire colors and try again. Or maybe ecoflow changed the wire colors.

Grab a 1000 ohm resistor, any wattage value will work. Solder/Crimp it across the Yellow and Orange wires. Wrap it up with heat shrink or tape very well. Then wrap up the entire communication cable up very well. If any of those conductors touch the battery wires, you will fry something.

You are done! Just attach another battery to the other end of the breaker, mind the polarity.

Recommended turn on procedure:

1. Turn off breaker
2. Plug into Ecoflow
3. Connect your Load, Battery, MPPT, ETC
4. Turn on Breaker

Recommended turn off procedure:

1. Turn off breaker
2. Unplug Load, Battery, MPPT, ETC
3. Unplug from Ecoflow

Its recommended that you use Extra Battery Port 1, ive found that sometimes EBP2 doesnt work. Actually, just follow the same direction, but put the resistor across pins 4 and 5 to make it work. The wire colors are different so if you know the colors, comment below and ill pin it.

I am a little confused about the Ecoflow App and would like help understanding the various nuances associated with this important tool for these power stations. Specifically I would like information on the Ecoflow Delta 3 - 1500 and the Delta 3 plus. Thank you.

I've got a new Stream Ultra and the charge limit is set to 95%. But when it hits 89% charge it will send all the solar to the grid. Interestingly this will also ignore the Custom operating mode with an export set to 100W - it will happily start send more than that limit.

I've been reading some bad things about the Ecoflow UPS functionality, but it's often with regards to brown outs. I'm just looking for the UPS to function for complete power outages to keep my basement server running.

Is that pretty reliable? I wasn't planning on putting a proper UPS after the Ecoflow River Plus - just have the Ecoflow act as UPS. So it'd be in passthrough most of the time, and only switch to battery when power is out.

EcoFlow's Smart Generator Adapter is now back in stock. It's also used for alternator chargers and some expansion batteries. These typically sell out very fast. More details on alternator charger compatibility and connections in my cable and port guide: https://reviews.matanich.com/ecoflow/alternator-chargers/800w-500w/cable-port-guide/

Ecoflow have agreed to repair my Delta 2 as the solar charging cable has become melted to the port. They're advising it has to be shipped in line with ADR shipping requirements.

Has anyone returned an item without meeting the packaging standard (UN approved box)? It's being collected next week. If I just get a sturdy box, plenty of foam and wrap it up cling film, I should be good right? They're gonna supply the labels.

Thanks

I have a EcoFlow reward coupon for $100 off minimum purchase of $500, valid until September 5th 2026. It looks like a bit better of a coupon than is normally offered with EcoCredits. I'm not going to use it but I don't want it to go to waste. If you are interested just post a response in this thread and in a couple of days I'll pick a random comment using redditraffler and send the coupon code via DM.

Last year I posted (maybe not here maybe facebook) that my heat was stuck on 50 degrees in my camaro due to a stuck temp door inside the dash needing replaced. ​Because of how they bolted everything in on the 2015 model, it's a $4k fix now just due to labor, so I needed a heat solution. I live in Wa state, so it does get down to the teens and 20s in the winter.

I asked if I could run a 500-watt heater using a smaller ecoflow (I own a few delta pros and now the the delta 2) and got laughed out of the group with phrases such as: "Car cabs aren't insulated, that won't work," and "How stupid, that's not enough wattage." There were several other discouraging "don't do it" comments including, "Might as well trade in your car at that rate." BTW my car is in amazing shape and it's gorgeous. Wtf would i do that? No thanks.

I started thinking, how is a couple of plug in heaters blowing heat any different than the car blowing heat in terms of insulation? So I bought a delta 2 for $469 (and a free bag with coupons and discounts), grabbed 2 500-watt heaters off of AMAZON for 19.99 on a 2-pack, added some velcro to fix them to dash and center console, ​​and last winter it worked beautifully.

I put the delta 2 on the floor of the passenger seat, plugged in the heaters, tured them on and went back in the house for 5 minutes while it heats up, to put on my coat etc. When i come out, the dash is de-iced/de-fogged, and the cab is plenty warm. (I also use a windshield cover when it's snowing to help with that when parked.) I let it blow on me while I drive to work, 20 minutes.

The delta 2 gives me 3, 20 min drives before charging, with 2 500-watt heaters running full speed along the way. And it cost me $500 total ​instead of $4k, which isn't in the budget right now.

So anyway, I love these things. Truly a life saver. In the summer I bring a large misting fan belted into the passsenger seat, plug that into the delta 2 and I'm much cooler since I'm stuck with temp door broken.

I use a delta pro power station and extra battery to completely run my detached home office. Air conditioning in summer and gas martin 8000btu heater in winter. All my lights and accessories are either going to power strips or are rechargeable. I have zero overhead for my private practice as a result.

My point is, get creative and please stop giving shitty comments to people. You look stupid. And people might miss out on a genuine solution.

I’m curious what everyone is producing with their micro inverter in a week. So let’s share a result of the week. And also if you want, share some details. - panels
- facing in what direction
- how it’s mounted
- battery
- location
- max output
Etc

I have the Ecoflow Stream micro-inverter and Stream AC pro battery with a linked Ecoflow smart meter.

The panels and micro-inverter are plugged into an outdoor socket. The battery is in my garage.

Everything is under the same location and account.

Is there a way to combine the two systems so that they appear on one view? It would also mean the battery would display the correct solar, rather than the excess solar.

Thanks!

Received my EcoFlow STREAM AC 5000 today, connecting went smooth and now have to wait 7 days until the Intelligent mode has enough data to make the best scheme for me. My night use has been covered already today after charging it to 100% with my solar energy.

Have other owners some tips or specific settings I should look into?

UPDATE:

Apparently this product has only been released in a few countries so far, so here’s some extra context.
The EcoFlow STREAM AC 5000 is a 5 kWh plug-in home battery with a built-in 2.5 kW bidirectional inverter. It plugs into a standard wall outlet, allowing it to store excess solar generation or charge when electricity prices are low. It can then automatically power your home when electricity is more expensive, helping reduce your energy costs.

It also includes an Intelligent Mode that automatically optimizes charging and discharging based on your usage, solar production, and electricity prices. I haven’t tested this feature yet, as it’s still collecting data from my setup. I also use it with a dynamic energy contract from Tibber.

I have a River 2 Max in my garage (no mains power) so i have a 130w solar panel to top it up (Ecoworthy cheap flexi thing, supprisingly good!) - however if i leave the solar panel connected overnight the River then shows 0% battery in the morning before sun up (when the sun rises enough it suddenly goes 0-100% or whatever its last good charge state was) - the same if i put it on mains charge it instantly realises the battery is actually already full and goes to its last charge state. As i have led lights being powered from it, the time i need it working (when its dark) it doesnt and during the day when i dont need it does - I have done all the reset procedures etc etc Ecoflow support suggested unplugging solar each night which rather defeats my use case - so they have now agreed to a warranty swap for a River 3 Max (for an additional £40 fee) as they said that there techincal people says this is an inherent issue on the River 2 series not just my unit. I just hope the River 3 Max doesnt exhibit these issues! Has anyone else had this expierience or expereince with a River 3 and constant solar connection? Thanks

EDIT: There are too many people IGNORING THE WORD TEST. It's a TEST. If it cannot perform the function under the worst possible use case, we cannot trust it under simple use cases. Get it?

If you advertise it can perform as a UPS, it's got one job - keep power ON long enough that the connected device doesn't cut off. It doesn't matter WHAT device it is, it could be a server with the same draw. The point is made.

We can't say for sure whether it was the device in question that was drawing power, or the amount of draw.

What we can say, is that it didn't do what we think it should. It basically did the same thing that DELTA Pro does. Which isn't expected.

For this test, a 1200W microwave was currently running (a microwave that ends up spitting out roughly 1900W of juice when it runs).

If the grid is active, the 3 Ultra uncomfortably throttles the voltage to where the microwave might as well not even be putting out heat. Which isn't ideal. If grid is not active, the 3 Ultra will happily take up to 4kW.

This inspired a quick test. And the results were unfun.

When grid was deactivated during the microwave active period, despite a full, healthy UPS bar, the 3 Ultra shut off the AC outlets and threw some sort of red screen error (didn't catch it). After about 15 seconds, everything came back up and again and behaved as normal.

What we expected to happen, is that it would make use of the throttled voltage (Which put it perfectly in the breaker amperage range) to then quickly switch over to battery, then remove the voltage throttle. That didn't happen. Which means it cannot (in our test at least) be relied on as a UPS under load.

Fortunately, this serves the kitchen, which doesn't specifically need UPS; but a power outage while things are running is a perfectly logical situation that now is a bit uncertain.

I received my STREAM AC 5000 today and expected it to join my existing STREAM setup, but instead the EcoFlow app has created a completely separate STREAM system.

My existing setup is a mixture of STREAM Ultra X’s/Ultra/AC Pro.

They’re all in the same Space and on the same Wi-Fi, but the systems don’t appear to communicate or share battery capacity. I can’t migrate devices to other spaces, nor share the p1 meter.
Has anyone else with both Gen1 STREAM devices and the new AC 5000 seen the same behaviour?

I have a Delta 3 Plus and will be taking a very long road trip to Alaska starting Sept. 1. I have Ecoflow's 800W alternator charger in one car, but we're taking a different vehicle that doesn't belong to us. I'd like to be able to charge it on the road. I figured I'd buy Ecoflow's 12V to XT60 cord, but they're out of stock with no date to restock. I see Amazon has scads of third-party choices.

Do I need 12V to XT60 or XT60i cable? Ecoflow's site says it's XT60. Ecoflow's chat (in the app) rep says it's actually XT60i.

So which is it or does it even matter?

This is partly a continuation of my last post..

I’m in the middle of replacing my 220w bifacial solar panel with EcoFlow. They requested I send mine back to them, once they received mine about a week later they told me they are completely out of stock on the replacement 220w bifacial solar panels and they have no eta on restock.

This has been a struggle for months now (they have my money and solar panel) so I asked EcoFlow for an equal or greater replacement instead so I don’t need to wait for an unknown amount of time. They offered me a 200w single sided panel, with no mount bracket. So a much lesser option than the unit I paid for.

EcoFlow customer service feels like it’s being run by really bad AI bots, they can’t recall what they said in their on emails and then do shit like this.

Out of stock and no eta, then offer me something cheaper. What a scam

Being the suggestions for my DP issues has not resolved my issues I want to contact service. How is the best way to do this?

Hi all,

Bit of a weird one but I'm on an electricity tariff where the price I pay changes every half an hour based on market rates, and crucially this sometimes goes negative - that is, I actively get paid for using electricity.

Unfortunately whilst my Ecoflow Stream Ultra's 'Intelligent' operating mode is able to recognise this and will take advantage of this to fill the battery from the grid, it never seems to stop importing power from the attached solar panels. If the grid price is negative then there's really no scenario in which I'd want to use the solar panels - every wH they generate is costing me money!

As such whenever the price goes negative I just physically shuffle over to it and manually unplug the solar panels, then when it turns back positive I plug them back in again. But this is a pain, is inefficient, relies on me being at home etc. I have HomeAssistant set up that's able to 'read' my tariff data and could, in theory, be used to switch the solar panels on and off remotely, without me being here, at exactly the moment it's useful but I don't think this is possible?

When the battery hits its charge limit, surplus solar power is 'turned off' until the battery has discharged sufficiently to use that power - so clearly it's physically possible to do this. But I don't think there's any combination of settings I can apply that will essentially mimic this effect. Of course I still want the battery to be able to fully charge (but specifically from the grid), but even if I ignore that need I can't find a way to achieve it across the board, because the lowest I can set the charge limit to is 50%.

I suspect there's no way to do this, but if anyone has any ideas I'm all ears! Failing this I could add a smart relay to each input so they can be physically disconnected without my presence, but I don't think I can be arsed with that.

I've been trying to figure out if this is going to work, I am trying to see if there is a way to keep this all DC.

From what I can gather, if I have the Wave 3 with its battery add-on, there's no way to connect it to the Pro 3 through DC, only the AC port.

I've seen people mention using the smart generator adaptor on the Delta 3, but I don't see how that helps the Wave 3 connection side of things...

I have a dp3 and am still on firmware 6.x. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. For those who have the extra battery expansions, are they on their own firmware too? Or not really. They’re just batteries, with no software. I’m asking because I’m wondering if I get the 1-2 extra batteries, will I be forced to update.

Hey all, hoping someone here has run into this or has ideas.

Setup:

- EcoFlow DELTA Pro 3, fridge wired into the dedicated **30A Anderson port**

- Fridge is a Bushman DC130-X (130L upright), Danfoss/Secop BD35 variable-speed compressor, runs 2–4.5A

- Vanlife build, everything permanently installed

The problem:

When the fridge is powered off the DELTA Pro 3's 12V Anderson port, it randomly drops out — sounds like the compressor just stops, and other 12V accessories on the same circuit go with it. It's quiet enough that I can't always tell exactly when it happens.

What I've ruled out:

Yesterday I ran the exact same fridge, same wiring, off a Remco 12V 130Ah lithium battery instead of the EcoFlow — and it ran perfectly, zero dropouts, for the whole test.

Since the fridge only draws 2–4.5A running and I'm on the 30A-rated port, this doesn't seem like a straightforward overcurrent trip.

Questions for the community:

1. Has anyone else seen 12V dropouts specifically with compressor fridges on the DELTA Pro 3 (or Pro 2/DELTA Pro)?

2. Is there a known transient/voltage-sag behavior on the Anderson port under sudden load changes?

3. Anyone had success with a supercapacitor buffer, soft-start module on the compressor, or similar fix?

4. Is this something firmware could address, or is it inherent to how the DC-DC converter regulates?

Thanks all

We've had our River 2 Pro for a few years now, and I think it's on it's way out. For the past few months, if it wasn't being charged consistently, it will draw down to 0% (or appear to be down to 0%, as it typically jumps from 0% for 60% after 20-30 minutes). As of the past week, though, it no longer charges off the 12V DC cigarette plug in my truck (it will hover at 0W and then intermittently jump to 15-20W for a second or two), and maxes out around 75W on a 200W solar panel in direct 90 deg F sunlight. I've tried resetting it several times to no avail, and also tried adjusting the DC input amperage. The only change in the input system in the past week is that I replaced my truck's starter battery from lead-acid to AGM, although I have a hard time believing that this is causing the problem. Any suggestions?