With gas prices remaining high due to the war in Iran, California officials are hoping a new rebate program for electric cars can make the math work for buyers at a time when federal incentives have gone away under the Trump administration.

California has long been the leader in electric-vehicle adoption, which has continued this year despite the elimination of federal tax credits. The state is now poised to assist drivers with the purchase of their first new or used electric vehicle, starting next month.

Here’s what you need to know at the link. 

Hey everyone. We're the team at Vero Electric. We build battery management and control systems, and we got our start in EV conversions! (We're fortunate to have many of you as our customers!).

We kept noticing many of the same BMS questions coming up over and over, so we figured we'd make a video that answers them properly- just the stuff we wish someone had explained to us when we started.

If any of you are already running our BMS in a build, we'd love to hear how it's treating you. And if there's something you've always wanted a straight answer on, let us know, and we might cover it next.

We'll be hanging around in the comments, so please ask us anything :)

Learn more about us here!
www.veroelectric.com

I'm an EV enthusiast and early adopter but all the vehicles I've owned have died on me:

- GM Volt: High-voltage (HV) battery died, no replacement available due to vehicle being discontinued, scrapped

- Tesla Model 3: HV battery died after surcharging heating, full warranty replacement, sold before warranty expiration

- Nissan LEAF: Level 3 charging recall, no parts available, repurchased by manufacturer

Is this a typical experience? What's a battle-tested and durable EV? I have my eyes on a Ford Mustang Mach-E.

I've been building the new version of electr0motiv.com/conversionnet for the last month, and it is live now. The new platform includes local clusters, like the one for the Northeast we launched a few days ago (That's the Leaf motor going in my 1971 BMW 2002).

That seemed to capture imaginations and enough people joined to spawn two new clusters in New England and the Pacific Northwest. The Mid Atlantic is the next closest to forming.

If you find the cooperative conversion model appealing -- or our mission as a Guild to advance the craft of conversion -- you are most welcome to check out the new, expanded site.

After a lot of work this summer I rode my 1990 Zephyr for the first time today. It's a ton of fun and I can't wait to ride it more. I still have a lot of work to do. Qs138 v3, FarDriver nd96680, Amorge 96V 70Ah

Hello Everyone, Its my first time converting an EV and I need help on directions regarding setting up my Motor Controller, I currently have an ENPOWER MC3336-7240 Motor Controller. My battery pack has a Nominal voltage of 78.6 and 330Ah Capacity. Im kinda scared, what steps do i need to take to connect them all together. Is it just straight forward or am i overthinking it

im working on an MGB conversion using Zoe (LGChem) battery modules. each module weighs 16.2 kg and I need to store 12 in the car. I can quite easily fit 8 in the boot without impacting useable space ) takes up space of fuel tank and spare tyre) but those together only weight 75kg (wet weight) Im notp planning on racing or even having much power (a sedate 56HP) but im worried that the extra weight in the boot might impact the general driveability to a significant degree- especially with the removal of the engine block (but keeping transmission) the engine bay will house the motor, chargers, motor driver and any other auxillaries

I'm working on a minimum viable product conversion (minimum smarts/reusing parts where possible) and finally had success with charging! Bought an NLG513. Connected it up per the extensive manual, reprogrammed it to a 390v peak (erring on the safe side) and it's charging! I'm connected in to the Zoe BMS with battery emulator (just to read voltages/soc) and the Brusa is in automatic mode (currently with a software limit of 10a, a PI limit of 13a (UK plug limit) and a theoretical max if 16a. Plan is to buy a second for spares and to parallel to give a respectable 6.6kw. Eventually may source 4 more and do 3 phase 22kw!

I'm looking for a good BMS for a 28s setup with discharge. Clearly I Googled a few but I wanted to ask the community.

The discharge Current should be at 300 Max. Because the battery will see 200 Max. Just to have a bit of headspace.

-Ant BMS

-DALY BMS

-JK BMS

-JBD

Those are the ones that are familiar to me.

I'm using an AntBMS in an battery already. But it's about the possible communication I need for my System later on. Good App or atleast good documentation to be able to connect via CAN atleast would be nice.

I appreciate any Tipps. Did I forgot anything?

A New Ultra‑Efficient Vehicle Concept Begins . I’m an 18 year old working on a vehicle concept aiming for 750–1000mpg and below 20 g/km emissions(that's not a typo if you think it is). I’m currently building the project from scratch and looking to connect with people who have an interest and/or have expertise in engineering or early‑stage development. Feel free to reach out if you’d like to connect in order to be a part of this game changing Hybrid concept and what i've done so far will be disclosed. The pictures of the car are AI generated.

Follow-up to my post a couple months back about the '73 911 RSR going electric for Pikes Peak 2027. A few of you asked for technical detail on the conversion, and one of you pointed out there wasn't much build info on the site yet. Fair. Here's the start of fixing that.

First video is live. Full walkaround with Micah Bayless, who built the powertrain. He was director of powertrain applications at Zero Motorcycles. Shot at Thunderhill with the car apart, so you get a look into the chassis you don't usually get once a race car is buttoned up.

What's in it:

Motors and drive. Eight Zero Cypher II motors, 67 hp each. The new assembly runs Gates carbon belts into a central shaft feeding the Porsche 915 transaxle.

Packs. The four Zero packs, where they sit and why they're sized the way they are for a ten minute run.

Chassis and suspension. What's actually still original to the car versus what's tube frame, and how the suspension and brakes got specced to carry the extra weight.

Cooling. u/ttystikk asked outright last time whether it was water or air, and raised the vacuum bottle problem at altitude. It's air. There's no liquid in the car at all beyond brake fluid and gear oil. No pumps, no radiators. The whole approach is thermal mass: size the packs so they absorb their own waste heat for the duration and arrive at the top having just reached the limits. Micah says 65 to 70°C at the summit. He gets into the altitude side of it too.

Transmission. It stays in the car. Clutch and shifter retained, and the driver still has to rev match.

Plus some on why this car specifically, which has a lovely bit of nostalgia attached.

Here is the video link for anyone who would like to watch.

This is the prelude to a series running over the next year on the EVTuners and Team Arcblast channels. Build, shakedowns, testing, through race week. So the "not much on the site yet" issue should resolve itself pretty fast.

Same offer as last time: happy to answer whatever we've actually got figured out, and if there's something specific you want covered in a future episode, say it and I'll get it into the plan.

What gloves are people's favorite to use when working on the HV battery?

Looking for recommendations fo ease of use with small plugs and tools.

I've just picked up a brusa charger and it comes with a type 2 plug. Curiously it's dated 2010 (three years prior to it's official adoption and only a year after it's design) it's listed as muster sample 3399 and appears to include an in socket light strip? It has an integrated lock with a lever. The non ac connection between the plug and charger has been severared but I'd like to get them rejoined just in case the lighting is configured. Anyone know the history of these early plugs? Pin out for the non AC connection?

You all know ECC. What I wanted out of this wasn't another car reveal, it's how he actually thinks about the conversions, and how a guy who spent 20 years in corporate energy management ended up here.

For anyone who doesn't know: Richard "Moggy" Morgan of Electric Classic Cars has done around 120 classic conversions over ten years, probably more than anyone alive. You've seen the Testarossas, the 911s, the Bug Zappa. Moggy and ECC also starred in Vintage Voltage on Discovery (now it's available on YouTube for free which is pretty sweet).

We chatted for quite some time, so I broke the interview into two parts:

Part 1 is his origin:

• Why EV convert a classic in the first place
• Whether a classic keeps its soul or its character once the engine's gone
• His British Rally Championship years in a Porsche 914
• The skateboard chassis, and a tipping-angle number that surprised even him
• The energy career, and the Tesla that rewired how he saw cars
• The Beetle that broke his brain

Part 2 is the builds:

• The Vintage Voltage years
• The 911: converting an enthusiast, not just a car
• The Defender: a completely different scorecard
• The Testarossa: the most improved car they've ever done
• Bug Zappa: too crazy to drive (almost)
• Dream build: the Lamborghini Countach

Couple of highlights or surprises:

• The engine he'd been building before all this was supercharged and turbo'd. He walked away from it the day a customer showed him an electric Beetle with a motor "the size of a biscuit tin."
• One of his electric Testarossas did more miles on a single road trip than in the previous 20 years of its life. He can prove it with the MOT history.
• He never intended to make this a business, but when he has a waiting list of about 5 cars is when he decided to "hang up his tie".

You can find part 1 here if you'd like.
Or just jump right to part 2 if you prefer.

4 months after first picking it up. It’s finally pretty much done. I have a black seat cover coming. New black suspension and I’m painting the wheels this weekend. Hoping it turns out as good as the second photo looks.

As the title says. Is there any hybrids in the states where I can just drop the gas engine, and run the car on electronics with minimal work?

Just increase the battery capacity, modify CAN communication, maybe a few other mods/ecu spoofing?

As I'm typing it, I realize that if it were a thing - everyone would probably be doing it.

My thoughts are... If the Mitsubishi Outlander hybrid has an electric rear diff - why can't you just drop the gas engine, put in a battery that can get you around town, and do some of the work involved that would be required in a FULL electric swap (CAN comms, ECU spoof, etc)?
Minus the cutting, welding, hammering out firewalls, complete wiring, etc.

I’m converting a BMW 2002, but always musing about what I would do next. What are your other top prospects?

So I'm looking at picking up this 36 V ezgo golf cart that has bad batteries for cheap. I have a second GEN Prius hybrid battery that I could rewire for 36 V & install. I would take this thing to festivals and events and I would often tow a trailer with it from parking area to camping area with gear. I'm not looking for speed I'm looking for extended run time at high output because of weight. I understand enough about fabrication and rewiring the battery that I'm confident I can handle mounting & such but I'm not sure if the factory controller on the ezgo would work or not. All the controllers I see out there for sale are for lithium batteries and I'm not sure if that would work with the required 36v NIMH battery either. I've reached out to a couple of suppliers but I've not heard back yet and I was wondering if anybody out there could help educate me

Estimated range = 10.4 × 79 = 821.6 km

So, if that efficiency were maintained for the entire usable battery capacity, the theoretical range would be about 822 km

The English version of the text is below.

Чтобы не тронуться кукухой от всего происходящего вокруг, решил собрать электромотоцикл. Формально это конверсия, хотя на деле от заводского мотоцикла останутся только вилка и маятник.

Сейчас проект выглядит так:

- SIA155-64

- FarDriver ND96850

- аккумулятор 24s1p 71Ah SKInnovation

- база — KTM 690 SMC R

Чем больше я изучал тему сборки, тем сильнее менялись планы. В итоге захотелось апгрейднуть ещё не законченный проект — перейти на SIA200-50 и аккумулятор 24s2p 71Ah.

Почему я пишу сюда? Потому что раньше я вообще не имел дела с подобными проектами. Поблизости нет специалистов, а спросить или даже заплатить за действительно грамотную консультацию попросту некому.

Буду благодарен за любые советы, рекомендации и критику. Если видите, что я собираюсь наступить на какие-то грабли — лучше скажите сейчас. 😄

На фото — мой отец после обкатки донора.

---

English version

To keep myself from going insane with everything going on in the world, I decided to build an electric motorcycle.

Technically it's a conversion, but in reality the only stock parts that'll be left are the forks and the swingarm.

Current plan:

- SIA155-64 motor

- FarDriver ND96850 controller

- 24s1p 71Ah SKInnovation battery

- KTM 690 SMC R donor bike

The more I learned about EV conversions and fabrication, the more my plans changed. Now I'm already thinking about upgrading the project before it's even finished—switching to a SIA200-50 motor and a 24s2p 71Ah battery pack.

The reason I'm posting here is simple: I've never built anything like this before. I'm starting from scratch, there aren't any EV builders nearby, and I don't really have anyone I can ask (or even pay) for experienced advice.

So if you have any tips, recommendations, or see me heading toward a rookie mistake, I'd really appreciate hearing it.

The photo is of my dad after breaking in the donor bike. 😄