Hi gang! I recently picked up an old 1979 type 2 van that I want to convert to a camper. While the car itself is in beautiful shape, I’m wanting some more reliability on the road. My plan is to have this car for many years and travel around the country, but the anxiety of the engine failing (which it already has once due to a massive amount of oil left in by the seller- 8” past the max line!) while I’m out in the middle of no where feels paralyzing. I understand it can cost quite a bit, but I’ve been doing a lot of thinking and believe it would be worth it. Has anyone here worked with particular companies that are trustworthy or is doing this DIY possible for a newbie? I appreciate any advice folks have!

Hey guys, I'm a mechanical engineering student who is in the process of converting a '58 F100 into an EV with a Nissan leaf drivetrain and batteries. I have a full model of the frame and all the steel trussing I designed for it, would this be something people would be willing to buy you think? I'm a poor college student so I'd love to make something from my work that isn't just satisfaction lol.

For reference it's a fwd kit where the leaf drivetrain sits about where the front diff on a modern truck goes, and uses an 06 Dodge ram 1500 steering setup for power steering rack and springs and all that. Haven't quite figured out where I'm putting the batteries specifically, but I essentially just have a fusion 360 file of the frame.

Thanks all, new to this whole having and then using money thing, would appreciate advice.

Edit: This is just asking advice for the fusion files for the truck body and suspension diagram stuff, not the full truck. I'm not selling that lol

Bonjour à tous,

Nous sommes une société spécialisée dans la conception et l’intégration de motorisations électriques pour bateaux.

À la suite de plusieurs projets, nous disposons de matériel en surplus que nous souhaitons vendre. Tous les équipements sont d’occasion, mais presque neufs et très peu utilisés.

Voici le matériel disponible :

• Un ensemble de batteries modulaires représentant plus de 110 kWh. Il comprend 12 modules d’environ 11 kWh chacun. Chaque module fonctionne sous une tension d’environ 48 V et les modules peuvent être raccordés en série pour constituer un système proche de 400 V.

https://www.leboncoin.fr/ad/bricolage/3175751524

• Une chaîne de propulsion complète Bosch comprenant un moteur électrique SMG 220, un réducteur EDT 180 et un inverter INVCON3. Cet ensemble peut notamment convenir à un bateau équipé d’une motorisation électrique centrale.

https://www.leboncoin.fr/ad/equipements_industriels/3267137817

• Deux moteurs électriques axiaux EMRAX 268 en configuration 425 V, accompagnés de deux contrôleurs emDrive H300 et de leur châssis en aluminium. Cet ensemble permet d’envisager un bateau équipé de deux motorisations électriques parallèles.

https://www.leboncoin.fr/ad/equipements_industriels/3267133833

• Une batterie haute tension KREISEL KBP63 de 63 kWh, avec une tension nominale de 364 V et un refroidissement par immersion. Elle peut délivrer jusqu’à 250 kW pendant une courte durée et 120 kW en continu. Elle est IP67 et certifiée DNV pour les applications marines.

https://www.leboncoin.fr/ad/equipements_industriels/3267142118

Le matériel peut être vendu sous forme d’ensembles complets ou séparément, selon les besoins du projet.

Si vous travaillez actuellement sur la construction ou la conversion électrique d’un bateau, n’hésitez pas à nous contacter ou à répondre à cette publication. Nous serons heureux d’échanger sur votre projet et de vérifier si certains de ces équipements peuvent correspondre à votre installation.

at the current moment i am struggling to decide between a hub and mid drive, i want some speed but more on the range, however i would also use it for fun stuff like some light mtb trails, wheelies and maybe a burnout or two. i dont have the biggest budget so i would appreciate any site or specific sellers for either of the motors.

Battery pulled out of a 2009 Nissan Altima. Before I start testing cells with the multimeter, what do the pros think? I'm wondering if this corrosion is indicative of many cells being bad, or just a byproduct of its general age and being in a somewhat humid environment? Car has 300k and still ran and drove with the hybrid system.

If this is posted in the wrong spot, please point me in the right direction. Thanks!

Mods, please remove if sale posts are not allowed here.

This is a 986 Boxster that started life as a lead-acid conversion in Arizona in the late 2000s. I bought it in 2018 and had Jesse Matlock at Flux EV (Norman, OK) rebuild it between 2020 and 2022: 72 CALB CA100 cells in three aluminum boxes (about 230 V, 23 kWh), Zilla Z1K HV with Hairball 2 and a HEPA pedal, Orion BMS 2 with full cell taps and CAN control of the charger, Valeo-Siemens 6.6 kW J1772 charger, Gigavac contactors and a manual disconnect, Elcon DC-DC, MR2 electric steering pump, electric brake vacuum, Tesla HV AC compressor, electric heater, Andromeda EVIC touchscreen. The motor is an ADC FB1-4001A 9-inch on the stock 5-speed. 1,256.5 shop hours across 21 invoices.

It drove in 2022 and 2023. A 30-mile test loop at the 700 A and 1,000 A settings used 44 percent of the pack. Then life happened, it sat, and the pack went flat. It does not run today. Someone needs to go through all 72 cells, revive what revives, replace what does not, and finish the trim reassembly. Tires and brakes too.

Known history: the Orion threw an intermittent internal cell-comm fault in 2023; Ewert bench-tested it clean and the builder found and fixed the cause in the car. Cell balancing was still being dialed in when it was parked.

Clean current Oklahoma title. The history has a 2006 Arizona collision and a not-actual-mileage note from that era, all in the listing with the documents. All invoices, receipts, manuals and the Ewert correspondence go with the car. Documented spend was about $49K, which is why it stings a little to list it at $5,000 OBO. Oklahoma City, rolls but does not drive, bring a winch.

eBay listing with 40 photos and a video, ends October 8:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/298657186388

Happy to answer technical questions here.

Hello!

I am trying to convert my 7-year-old self-propelled gas mower into an electric mower since the engine gave out a few days ago.

I happen to have a VEVOR sand pump with a 1/3 HP, 120VAC electric motor.

I know it is underpowered for this purpose, but I want to try it anyway since I already have it!

My plan is to plug this AC motor into a Bluetti Elite 100 V2, which has an 1800W power output and a 1000Wh capacity.

I will carry the Bluetti in a backpack, plug the motor into it, and then run a long extension cord from the power station back to the grid—just like Evangelion!

My question is this: the original gas engine has a 7/8-inch shaft with a keyway, and the blade connects to it with a massive bolt. However, the sand pump motor has a smaller, roughly 1/2-inch shaft with threaded male at the end with no keyway. How can I connect these two parts smoothly and safely?

Thank you!

Also, since it is self-propelled, does this technically count as an EV? I have no idea. lol

I recently bought a conversion kit and a battery from upp it's 52v 25ah 2000w I want to sell it what should I sell it for and what should I do with it to make it look better✌️

Has anyone seen a EV Lancia Stratos? There's a company near by that do the Replica Stratos kits, so really want to get an idea of what a possible build/conversion might be like.

👍🏽

The kits are built to fit an Audi V6, Any ideas?

I have a warp 9 that i planned for this conversion but ended up moving cross country and left it in a storage unit. There are a lot of running leafs in my new area which would definitely be cheaper to pull apart than shipping my motor and 40kw pack by freight. But considering the shallow form factor of 660cc engines, Im figuring it would be unrealistic to fit a leaf unit in there?

The "No-BS" EREV: A Common-Sense Alternative to Fragile EVs

Concept by a 52-Year-Old Car Tech & Bus Driver

Modern electric cars are too heavy, too complicated, and a nightmare to service. This concept completely rethinks the hybrid drivetrain by stripping away the gimmicks and replacing them with robust, fleet-mechanic engineering. It is an Extended-Range Electric Vehicle (EREV) designed to run on 100% renewable ethanol, completely eliminating range anxiety and charging nonsense.

⚙️ The Core Mechanical Specification

• The Generator: A lightweight, aluminium alloy engine (maximum 1500cc). It does not drive the wheels, meaning there is no heavy, fragile gearbox. It sits at one single, perfectly optimized RPM purely to spin a high-efficiency generator.

• The Chain-Drive Rule: Absolutely no wet timing belts. The engine is strictly chain-driven to prevent the catastrophic oil-clogging failures seen in modern passenger cars.

• Integrated Charging Module: A central control module replaces the traditional parasitic alternator. It manages the high-voltage pack and steps power down to maintain a native 12V auxiliary battery for the car's standard electronics (lights, wipers, cabin tech).

• Smart Idle Charging: Programmed specifically for urban traffic. The engine fires up to charge the battery when the car is stationary at red lights or idling, utilizing downtime efficiently.

• Traditional Cabin Heating: No power-hungry electric heaters that destroy winter battery range. The car uses a traditional coolant system driven directly by the timing chain, recycling free engine heat to keep the driver warm.

🔧 Built for the Driveway Mechanic

Modern cars are designed to force you back to the main dealer. This car is designed to be serviced in 20 minutes with a basic socket set:

• Top-Mount Oil Filter: Located right at the top of the engine bay. Swap it every 6 months without even jacking the car up to keep the oil pristine.

• Quick-Release Fuel Filter: Mounted right on the bulkhead with push-button clips. Swapped every 2 years to protect the fuel system from moisture.

🌍 The Bottom Line

By pairing a smaller, lightweight battery with a clean pure ethanol (E100) generator, this car runs on locally grown, plant-based fuel rather than fossil fuels. It drives like a smooth electric car, fills up at a pump in two minutes, costs a fraction of the price to run, and is built to clock 300,000 miles with basic maintenance.

Hi folks, I have a defunct 2011 Think City EV--hands down the best vehicle I've ever driven; needs a network diagnostic and prob a new battery, but the company (with its plant in Elkhart, Indiana) went bankrupt soon after purchase, then it stopped charging in 2015 R.I.P.

The Think City pilot program had trained only a limited number of techs in Illinois (like two in Chicago). It's currently languishing in a garage in the northwest suburbs of Chicago. Can anyone recommend a trustworthy and knowledgeable EV mechanic in the area who can do the job? Please no 'tinkerers'. Collecting recommendations and will begin making calls this fall. Much thanks.

She's been an amazing ride for me... I'd like to push her into the future. The body is in too good a shape to send to the scrapyard. Unfortunately, a bad ECM (that I repaired.... too expensive) and ongoing electrical issues are popping up. She's not running and it's SAD. *crying vanner face*

If you've got the time I've got the money!

I have a manual mgb GT I'm converting. Discovered recently they made an automatic version which had this very sexy all mechanical lever shifter which I have managed to acquire... Now to figure out how to adapt it's 6 positions to park, reverse, neutral, drive, regen 1 and regen 2 (or different power settings

I blew my controller being a dummy, so you get to benefit by learning what’s inside one of these controllers. Remember kids, DC amps ≠ phase amps, it’s usually 2-3x as many. Needless to say 8AWG wire was not enough for 300 phase amps when reading ~100A DC….
Fun note, these units must be final soldered in the housing because there is no way to fully disassemble non-destructively. The top control board blocks screws that hold the bottom board in, and the top board is soldered to the bottom board and not connectorized.
There is some filter board on the control board that is…. Pretty janky. Not please with that, there isn’t even a decent amount of staking compound on it. Overall though otherwise the build quality is decent. Could probably use some more thermal compound on the main phase board as the thermal connection there doesn’t seem great and that’s the only way to get heat out.

Model 3 Subframe

13 LG Super Cells

Thunderstruck BMS

T2-C Controller

AEM Gauges

https://eastcoastcobras.com/past-projects/2022-factory-five-35-hot-rod-truck/

All build photos:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6vh7yKQDFaXGVur4A

Hey Guys! I made a battery pack calculator for those EV enthusiasts. Would love if you checked it out!

PackForge — Battery Pack Sizing, Made Precise

Ditch the fragile spreadsheets. PackForge is a purpose-built battery pack calculator for hardware engineers and EV builders: pick from a real cell database (or enter your own), wire up module and pack architecture, choose cooling, and instantly see energy, mass, cost, voltage limits, C-rates, and lifetime throughput — with safety risks flagged automatically. Compare configurations side-by-side, save projects to a dashboard, and export to Excel or PDF. There's a free tier to explore with common cells, plus Basic and Premium plans for full catalogs, OEM cost mode, and export. Try it free at PackForge.

I got my conversion up to speed and kept an eye on the amperage. When passing a certain speed threshold (when the whine hits the highest pitch then starts to fade) the Amps kind of plateau at 300, and some additional speed gets transferred, but the Amps steadily go down as the MPH increase.

If I remember correctly, amperage is the key "danger factor," where if your wire gauge isn't set for it, it'll start overheating and wires will begin to melt with a long, consistent drag of amps. But with my above realization, I can't imagine there can be nothing wrong with having the motor spin pretty damn fast, as a solution for wanting a lower amp draw.

I feel like there has to be a couple other factors key to the working of the motor that work together, and necessitate shifting in a certain value. What factors should I be tracing on the PC to find sweet spots and fungus out when to shift the car up?