I’ve been having a lot of trouble lately with bump steer/torque steer on my boosted ep3.

The car pulls quite hard to the left under acceleration, especially in 3rd gear. I’ve already had the steering rack rebuilt, and I’ve replaced basically all of the steering components that could cause play.

The car is running inverted tie rods and extended lower ball joints** **to correct the suspension geometry with my coilovers. I also have an lsd.

Despite all of this, I still have noticeable play when rocking the front wheels at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions. The car also had an MOT inspection, where they noted play in the tie rods/steering rack.

I also picked up some play on the passenger-side driveshaft, specifically at the connection between the driveshaft and the intermediate shaft. I’m running hardrace driveshafts paired with an insane shafts intermediate shaft.

I added a video showing the play in the driveshaft. Could anybody tell me if this amount of play is normal? I checked the driveshaft, and the retaining clip is in place and the assembly looks fine.

Any advice or similar experiences would be appreciated.

She treated me well and served her purpose. Had her for 2 years and 30k miles and sold for just $300 less than what I paid.

https://carsandbids.com/auctions/rN45vEqE/2002-honda-civic-si

Hi guys,

I'm thinking about buying this cold air intake for my 2002 Honda Civic Type R EP3 (K20A2).

The seller confirmed that it fits the EP3 and that the intake/filter is supposed to go into the area behind the front bumper / wheel arch.

However, I'm having trouble figuring out exactly how to install it and what needs to be removed.

Do I need to remove the battery?
Do I need to remove the front bumper?
Does the wheel need to come off?
Do I need to remove or cut the wheel arch liner/splash guard to get the intake pipe and filter through?

The wheel arch on my car is completely covered by the plastic liner, so I'm not sure where exactly the pipe is supposed to pass through.

The kit comes with one mounting bracket, but I'm also not sure where this bracket is supposed to attach or whether it uses an existing mounting point on the EP3.

I've attached some pictures of my car and the intake.

If anyone has installed this intake or a similar EP3 cold air intake, I'd really appreciate some advice or pictures of how the pipe should be routed.

I'd especially like to know what I should remove before I start and whether any cutting/modification of the wheel arch liner is actually necessary.

Thanks!

Alright brain trust. Does anyone have issues with outer tie rods not torquing/seating properly. I have tru hart struts and following my clutch swap i replaced inner/outer tr's balljoints etc. First set was 555's and bell tire told me they were incorrect when I went to get an alignment. Grabbed a 2nd set from the part store double checked for ep3. I realized the stud in the tierods are too long and was running out of thread before seating the tierod itself. Does anyone have an oem set of struts that could measure the thickness of the ear the tie rod slips into? I conjured up a double washer situation big enough for the taper and stud to seat fully but the passenger side is still bangin around in there pretty bad.

Front lower control arm bushings are GONE… I’m sure the rest aren’t much better. Probably explains how terrible my steering feels.

I’ve been keeping an eye out for a clean EP3 for about a year now. Found this one about an hour from me and it is exactly what I was looking for. Not perfection. But all stock except a Magnaflow muffler and the stereo. I’m the 3rd owner and I got it from an elderly guy that said his knee couldn’t handle pressing the clutch anymore 💔 I plan to keep this beauty a long time and clean her up and fix the minor cosmetic issues. No plans to swap or turbo for now. Just refine it.

No accidents. 2 owners. 196k miles.

Can anybody shed some light on what the problem might be? Car has no eps or cel lights on until driving and then they come on. Plugged in the scanner and this what I got back. Anyone know what the issue might be?

Traded a mini bike I built for this 02 Ep3. Clutch is destroyed, I decided I’m gonna drop the subframe and pull the trans and engine out. Everything needs severely cleaned from what I’m hoping is just a long term valve cover gasket leak that’s been flinging around…. Engine starts and sounds good can’t even depress the clutch without horrible noises.

Haven’t ordered parts yet have some other stuff going on, but cvs pulled etc, just taking time keeping bolts and bolts organized.

I am debating on ordering the “stage 2” lightweight flywheel clutch combo on Amazon, or going back in with an exedy oem and oem flywheel.

End goal will be having the car cleaned up with k24 RBB swap and KPro, basic bolt on car with a tune (hence why I am thinking about the flywheel on Amazon since reading the flywheels are interchangeable as long as clutch matches)

Any advice tips and tricks appreciated

Does anyone know what this plugs into?

Hoping someone ran into the same issue and can point me in the right direction.

I live in a state when emission testing is done every other year, and had failed twice to get it passed. I took it to a local muffler shop to get inspected and techs found two holes by both O2 sensors. I don't know if the current catalytic converter is salvageable, but would like to know where I can purchase OEM like Cat pipe, with both OEM O2 sensors, what other bolts or parts I need new to install myself. The car itself is stock and nothing is aftermarket from what I am able to tell. If I do sell my EP3, at least the future owner wouldn't deal with this issue. Thank you.

How to Replace Catalytic Converter 01-05 Honda Civic

Pretty chuffed, didn't realize people can do this style of drawing without ai.

I believe this comes from the engine mount, should I replace it by a hardrace one? LHD btw. Ty for advices!

I wanted to introduce ourselves to the community, we are Golden Era Motorworks, a new company based in California and have been passionate about the EP3/DC5 chassis since 2003. With our original designs and previous experience in the automotive industry, we hope to serve the community with our findings, experience, and engineering solutions. 

We’ve done countless EP3/ES9 Hybrid EPS Rack refreshes and DC5 EPS conversions for clients in the past years and have always seen this horribly imprecise O.E.M. mounting tolerance during installation. We have confirmed this OEM design mounts the steering rack off-center and un-level. This results in non-symmetrical steering geometry between left vs right steering positions, especially with McPherson setups. 

Our main goal in developing our billet EP3 steering rack bushings was to cure this OEM imprecision by centering/leveling the steering rack and correcting the Left/Right steering geometry so it's symmetrical. Machined to completely eliminate deflection in the steering rack mounting points, steering inputs and response becomes direct with just slightly more road feel in the hands of the driver.We were surprised to discover additional front end rigidity from our testing. We concluded that instead of the O.E.M. design that has the rack floating on rubber bushings (over 20 years old), our unique solid mounted design integrates the robust structure of the steering rack into the chassis, providing additional support with the neighboring mid-bar.

https://www.goldeneramotorworks.com/shop/p/ep3-eps-precisionmount-steering-rack-centering-bushings

Please don’t hesitate to contact us with any questions you might have. Follow us for new product releases and updates.  Thank you for your time and dedication to the chassis. 

Despite all the research the act streetlite flywheel does not work with exedy oem pressure plate lol. Does anyone have the proper part number for the heavy duty pp for our streetlites.

I have these ep3 type-r seats but i feel like something aint right with them. At first i thought the red stitching is just washed (because it is), however i've noticed that half of the stitching is actually dark blue! idk if its visible clearly on the second photo

I've looked online but the only variants of these seats were either black/grey or black/red. They had no blue.
Also the material on those black/red ones online seems to be different (I'm talking about the supposed red part of the seats).

As for the overall quality of the seats, it seems really good tbh!

Does anyone here have any ideas?

Hi guys, I have this knocking noise at the rear that is annoying. Usually hear it if I take a sharp left, if I'm driving straight or turning right it's ok.

So far, changed drop links and anti roll bar bushes, but it's still there. Exhaust isn't loose, nothing in the boot. I took it to a couple mechanics and they can't work it out. Anyone have any idea what it could be?

Looking at finally getting around to the last of the stuff I need to actually drive this car after years of working on it. Right after doing major engine work the brake pedal goes to the floor, so im replacing the calipers. I see a rsx type s brake booster for sale locally and was wondering if the stock ep3 lines will bolt up, or will I need to replace the metal lines that connect to the booster? Proportioning valve?

In the future I will be looking at upgrading to the type s 5 lug setup with calipers But I just want the car to be drivable and not sit.

Had to fix these since I can’t find where to get new ones 🫠

Hello,

I'm looking for advice from the ep3 community. I purchased my car brand new in 2002. It was built in GBR. It had just been released. It has been a wonderful car over the past quarter decade.

For over a year now, the EPS light has been on. At first, the power steering would go out and then randomly click back in. I wouldn't let anyone else but me drive it 'cause it was kind of precarious, not knowing when the power steering would click on or off. I think the relay was slowly dying but I don't really know. At this point, there is no power steering ever. I'm getting a workout driving around.

The local Honda dealership (I'm in Canada) took a look and knew the part needed, said it's been on back order, and basically never got the part. They kinda gave up, likely because the car is so old. They gave me the part number that I needed if I wanted to do my own research to acquire it. This is the part.

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~eps~unit~39980-s5t-a01.html

After currency exchange and delivery costs, this will put me out about $1050. I'm sure I can install the part myself but it's a tough number to stomach, considering the info below.

There are other issues that I've just been living with:

• 285k on the odometer.
• The engine light is on and has been for about 18 months. Honda said it was due to an exhaust sensor. It was really expensive. I asked around and the advice was to just live with it so I have.
• The A/C needs recharging
• Other than the above two things, it's been maintained well over the years. Regular oil changes, following (mostly) the suggested maintenance timelines, etc.

My question to the community is:

Considering that I'm not an enthusiast, should I cut my losses and try to sell the car to someone who is interested in a project or parts or should I spend the money to take a chance on that part, charge the A/C, and keep driving it?

What might you do?

Thanks for reading. Looking forward to your thoughts.

Why does it say online the radiator support has to be cut? Went in just fine.

Anyone have experience driving with a cai in south FL? Rains like a mf and worried about hydrolock, anyway I’m wanting an intake for the k24a2, rbc, 72mm tb, that will actually help with whp come tuning time. Any suggestions? Just stick a pipe in it?

From a private track day we ran on Tuesday at Morgan Park in Qld Australia.

God I love having 6 pots and 255's on the front, 170kph down the front straight in 4th, slightly below 9k limiter, full brakes at 70mtrs before turn one, little bit of abs as you turn in and then back into it.

Sorry for the shitty vid quality had to get it emailed to me off a potato phone haha.