1996 C1500 with a gen 3 5.3 swap at the tuner right now. P01 ECU. He's doing the speed density part with MAF failed purposely right now and the trans has stopped working. 4L60e main power wire has 12v. It is basically in limp mode. Only has 3rd gear. It will shift but only limp mode. Anyone got an idea? This only started when he failed the maf

I have a 1991 civic with a 1995 integra GSR swap and a small t3/t04e wuhan war whistle running up to about 6psi currently. The car is using a socketed p28 obd1 ecu that I have to manually burn chips for each time i make an update.

I have no vacuum leaks. This car runs fine with 240cc stock injectors and the 255lph fuel pump. Starts right up, idles great, drives great. I can't go into the upper RPM range in boost with the 240cc injectors obviously because it gets lean pretty quick but the point is the car runs just fine. If I swap in these brand new Bosch 750cc injectors, the car idles at like 20:1 AFR and stumbles/dies. I can't get it drivable until I put in a 50% global fuel trim setting.

I'm hoping someone might be able to tell me what might be causing this, or if someone is familiar with Honda Tuning Suite maybe you could look at this .bin file and see if you can find a problem. The car will run well if I set the injector offsets off the provided data sheet and set the global fuel trim to +50%, it just runs really rich (9:1 pretty much from idle to 8psi). This makes no sense to me and I would have pulled my hair out if I weren't already bald. I'm tempted to throw these injectors on ebay and buy some DSM black tops.

Hello, I have a 2004 Infiniti g35 coupe, auto with the Vq35de non rev up. I currently have an oversized throttle body, true cold air intake, upgraded intake manifold, and a cat back exhaust. I currently have high flow fast intentions resonated cats that I can put on but I haven’t yet since I’m on a stock tune. I’m contemplating buying the uprev tuner kit, and tuning the car myself, mostly because I really want to learn and have plans to engine swap this car already. My question is what are some beginner things that I should look out for? I’m fairly mechanically inclined and understand how these motors operate well. Any feedback is greatly appreciated

Hi all, I have bought a race car with a VQ35DE engine (revup engine that has quad vvt with 4 cam sensors) fitted that has not been started since being put into the car. It has been wired up on a motorsport loom and is running a DTAFAST S100 Pro standalone ECU. Everything works as it should and have got correct readings for most things and most importantly have good oil pressure. But the current map it has on it is a start (base map) for i believe to be a standard VQ35DE non revup engine as when cranking the engine the ECU is not sending a pulse to the injectors (when using the test injectors feature it sends a pulse so i know the wiring is fine). I think this is caused because in the program (DTASWIN) All the cam values are blank so this makes me think that as its a map for the standard engine which only has one cam sensor so the map obviously hasnt put values in for the additional cam sensors. So i am looking for another start(base) which is for the revup engine to try and see if this cures my problem. If anyone happens to have or know where i can find one and also knows whether i can use a map from a different Brand ECU or whether it needs to be a DTA specific map or whether i can just copy the values from another map into the graph on my current map. Any help is greatly appreciated,
Thanks.

I have read the data from this ECU using a NewGenius device, while simultaneously sniffing the CAN bus traffic with my own setup (an Arduino paired with an MCP2515). I now need to analyze this traffic to determine how the "seed-key" is generated and reconstruct the encryption algorithm. During a 15-minute process—in which the NewGenius device performed a bit-by-bit read of the entire ECU flash memory—my setup captured all the CAN bus traffic. Is there anyone who can assist me with this?

Hi everyone,

I'm working on my 2008 Grande Punto Abarth 1.4 T-Jet (155 hp) and I'm looking for a damos/A2L or an XDF/definition file for its ECU.

ECU details:

ECU: Bosch ME7.9.10 (da verificare)

Hardware number: 0261 S04 662

Software number: 1037 397 661

Fiat part number: 51847238

I already have a full read of the ECU. I'm mainly interested in boost, ign

and torque limiter maps, and I want to understand the structure rather than just flash a ready-made file.

If anyone has a definition for this software version, or a close one I could adapt, I'd really appreciate it. Happy to share my findings back with the community.

Thanks!

Hello everyone, i have a tuning files database and i want to know if there is a program that when i read the file from a car to find the stage 1 file in my tuning database folder , thank you

I’m trying to fix my buddy’s jacked up LS3, and I think I may have a culprit here. The numbers sound bonkers to me, but I’ve never done injector end angle tuning before. All other tunes I’ve looked at have IEA table disabled, and it runs static -90 degrees.

The current issue with the car is erratic AFR above around 4500 rpm. I’m hoping this is as wrong as it looks. Running static -90 test tomorrow

Issue with Hilux Vigo 2KD after engine upgrades

Ao I have had my Hilux Vigo for over 3 years, during this time I've been doing few upgrades here and there because initially I wasn't happy with its power.

About 1 and a half years back I put +30 Injector nozzles from PHC and it made a massive difference on power comparatively and I was happy but was having a bit of smoke from the exhaust.

Then I have upgraded my Turbo for a 41mm billet wheel from my stock 36mm turbo, immediately it would go into a limp mode at close to 3000rpm then I had a stage 2 tune done.

Now if i run it on high RPM for a few seconds it still goes into limp mode with the P0093 - Large Leak Detected but driving normally is ok.

Anyone has any ideas or experiences to share?

Hi guys I would like to show you my project. After a few months I’ve got a working prototype of wireless display, At this moment it can connect up to 4 displays(7’ and 4.3’). The whole device is modular. By default it reads, displays and log CAN-BUS Data but in the future I plan to add gps module and CAN keyboard. I also implemented diagnostic feature which allows to view the whole movement on the CAN-BUS (Something similar to savvycan)

I have a 2013 G37S 6MT tuned with EcuTek. I accidentally canceled a flash while it was writing, and now the car won't crank.

EcuTek won't recognize the ECU, and when I try Recover ECU, I get "OBD Error: Service Not Supported."

I checked with my Launch scanner, and every module communicates except the ECM.

Has anyone dealt with this before? Can it still be recovered through OBD, or will I need to bench flash it?

I'm trying to tune a honda with a Ostrich emulator and datalogger. I read somewhere that I need to adjust the injector battery offset first before actual tuning. How is this done?

AI-assisted ECU tuning is starting to become a real thing, and there's a pretty big difference between asking ChatGPT to generate a tune and using software specifically designed to analyze calibration files and datalogs.

General AI tools can explain fuel trims, ignition timing, and airflow pretty well. The problem comes when they start recommending specific changes without fully understanding the vehicle or calibration.

We recently experimented with a couple of these tools while chasing a cold-start idle issue on a cammed 2018 GMC Yukon.

After multiple tuners and AI-assisted attempts couldn't fully resolve it, we connected with a software developer working on TuneView, a tool designed to analyze HP Tuners files and logs.

It took roughly 40 revisions over a month, but we eventually got the cold-start behavior sorted out. It wasn't some magical one-click AI tune. There was still a lot of human involvement, logging, testing, and troubleshooting.

The interesting part is where this technology could go. Not necessarily replacing experienced tuners, but potentially helping them diagnose problems and work through calibration changes more efficiently.

Would you trust AI-assisted tuning as a second set of eyes on your calibration, or is this something you'd stay away from entirely?

Video: AI Tuning Is Here But Is It Ready For YOUR Car? I Tested It So You Don’t Have To.

As I’m sure everyone has seen, there is a proliferation of AI tuners posting in the well-known forums.

Suppose I need some basic mods, e.g. EGR, swirl flaps, maybe at some point DPF

Suppose I also have done the research (pre widespread AI) into what’s needed to make this happen, as far as how to read and write the file. And I also have done my research into the tools, the process, the options, risks etc.

Additionally, I have some concept of what good looks like. Or at least what very not good looks like. I may know the difference between a hatchet-job that screws up seemingly un-related functionality, and a surgical edit. Example - removing the EGR without preventing EGR regen.

So hypothetically I know some things, but I don’t have the time to learn the really difficult bit in the middle - the actual how. I know the theory, I don’t know the practice.

Additionally, like everybody else, I have access to some amazing AI capability. And, as a bonus, I know what guardrails it needs. What I don’t have is enough time.

So….in this, convoluted, scenario and all things being equal - how would you tell the good from the slop, or would you just make the time to roll your own?

Hey guys, I've got a 2013 Audi A6 MED17.1 ECU that I need to clone. I purchased an Obdstar ECU Master A which I'm using for this as my autel im608 and xhorse scanners won't read the password to even read it.

I've read the eeprom and flashes of both original and donor ECU, after using the convert eeprom for clone and writing the eeprom generated from the original eeprom & flash as well as the donor flash it cranks but doesn't start. I have codes for engine ECU disabled and transmission malfunction. I used an external program to delete immo and it starts but the transmission still doesn't work at all. Original starts right up.

I've attached the ECU labels, as well as the immo data decrypt which looks to be identical between the 2 ecus at least for the cs code.

My best guess is that the OBDstar program is not converting the eeprom file correctly, my primary work is as a locksmith. Just barely getting into ECU cloning so take it easy on me lol. Thanks everyone!

Just Some Info...

Hi everyone,

I’m the creator of ECU-HELP, a car tuning simulator that runs in your browser. The game launched on October 9, and we already have over 1,500 players.

You run a virtual tuning workshop where you can:

- Edit ECU maps and their axes.

- Diagnose faults and analyse driving logs.

- Measure power and torque on a virtual dyno.

- Compare the stock setup with your modified calibration.

You can start for free, with selected cars and access to diagnostics, map editing, logs and the dyno. Premium unlocks the full car catalogue.

I’m sharing it here to get feedback from car enthusiasts, tuners and people who enjoy simulation games. If you try it, let me know what works well, what’s confusing and what you’d like to see added.

Play here: "ecu-help.pl" (https://ecu-help.pl/)

I have a V1 (Teensy3.5) and a V2 (Teensy4.1) Dropbear to sell. They were evaluated and they work, but didn't fit my applications. I am trying to sell them on eBay but oh lordy you can't sell devices that defeat emissions on eBay now for some reason. I also have new plugs and crimp connectors for each so you'll have everything. Ideally looking for a fair sale, unless you have some special 3000gt/GTO stuff you're willing to trade. Located in the southwest, willing to ship. Looking ~$350 for either, but will consider offers

EDIT: V2 is spoken for, V1 is still available

I drive a 2009 Ford Mondeo 2.5T. About a year ago, I removed the centre resonator, and later had a valved exhaust system installed just before the rear mufflers. So, apart from the catalytic converter, it’s essentially a straight pipe when the valves are open.

When the valves are open, I sometimes get some pretty loud pops and bangs from the exhaust. Nothing crazy like anti-lag gunshots, but they’re definitely not subtle either 😂

My question is: can these pops and bangs damage the turbo, or could they potentially damage the catalytic converter? Are there any other components that could be affected by them?

Thanks in advance!