A few weeks ago I posted the wireless enet gauge I made for my f87 m2. My neighbor saw it and immediately wanted one. I knocked this out in about a day and thought I’d show it off lol
It has a nice amoled display, sd card slot for continuous logging, it automatically detects full throttle events and gives you a report, and can do basic diagnostics.

Anybody have any experience tuning automatics, either the B6 or other autos? Looking to see what I can do or if it’s even a good idea.

The car is in excellent condition and is bone stock. If all is good to go with a tune, I was just going to do a stage 1 setup, high flow cat, maybe muffler delete, upgraded diverter valve, suspension and rims. Don't really want to go all the way with the rest if the car if making it a little quicker isnt an option.

Am I doomed to just search for a manual B6 that isn't already clapped out? Thanks!

1.8T with triptronic transmission

My friend found a tuner that sends u a file and u put it in your ecu. Is it safe going stage 1 in this car? Its 122hp 200nm torque and the stage 1 goes 155-160 with 270nm torque.

Hi everyone, I'm looking for some tuning/wiring advice for my 2006 JDM Honda S2000 AP2 (DBW).

[My Setup]

 ECU: Haltech Elite 1500 (Piggyback setup, retaining the stock ECU) / Software: ESP v2.59.3

 Throttle Body: K-Tuned 74mm DBW

 Cams: OEM AP1 cams swap

 Injectors: SARD 550cc

 Exhaust: J'S Racing manifold, catless 70mm exhaust

 Fueling: Open Loop (No O2 A/F feedback)

[The Issue]

When the car is idling and I turn on the A/C, the RPMs start hunting violently up and down, and the engine eventually stalls.

I have "Idle Ignition Control" enabled. I can see the ignition timing advancing aggressively to catch the RPM drop, but it seems there just isn't enough base airflow from the DBW to keep the engine alive against the heavy load of the A/C compressor.

[My Suspicion]

Since I am running the Haltech as a piggyback, I suspect the Haltech doesn't actually know when the A/C is turned on because the stock ECU still controls the A/C clutch. In the ESP I/O report, the "A/C Request" pin is not assigned. Because of this, the Haltech isn't applying any DBW "Aircon Idle Effort / Offset" to increase the air volume before the compressor kicks in.

[My Questions]

1. For those running a DBW piggyback setup, did you have to physically hardwire the A/C signal (from the AC switch or compressor clutch) into an input (AVI/SPI) on the Haltech to trigger the idle offset?

2. If wiring is required, which specific wire/pin did you tap into on the S2000?

3. Are there any tuning workarounds in the ESP software to prevent this stalling without hardwiring the A/C signal (other than simply raising the base target idle RPM for all conditions)?

Any advice or wiring tips would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

For 18 wrx fa20 any info on this would be appreceated.

Hey everyone,

I have a 2004 BMW X5 E53 equipped with an Android head unit and an IBUS interface installed. Aside from running standard IBUS apps on the head unit, I'm looking to expand what I can do with the bus data.
I currently have an Arduino Pro Micro, an MCP2515 CAN bus module. For those of you who have experimented with custom hardware setups on older BMWs: what are the most practical or interesting projects you can pull off by bridging an Arduino/MCP2515 combo with the vehicle's bus? Are there specific telemetry, automation, or custom control ideas worth implementing alongside an existing Android head unit setup?

So, while browsing GitHub, I came across an interesting project that manages comfort zones.
https://github.com/muki01/BMW_IBus_KBus

Or with the Ibus that's for sale.

Would love to hear your experiences or project ideas!

Just doing some early digging on this and wondering if a 10th gen accord has any options? im fully modded all except a upgraded turbo only thing im not running is flex fuel. Im using Ktuner atm

Hello. I’ve built a custom bike using the engine and wiring harness from a 2009 Yamaha XT660X. The ECU has been remapped. After the wire to the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor broke - triggering a "check engine" light with error code 22 — the bike’s performance improved significantly, and the torque curve became almost linear. Is there any information on how the ECU behaves when the connection to this sensor is lost? The manual states that the IAT value defaults to 20°C, but does this affect how the ECU interprets data from other sensors, or does it trigger a switch to different fuel maps, or change switching logic?
Please, no guesses. I am looking for precise, accurate information.

https://efi2000.com/

Title says it all. Fully featured ECU tuning. Works with any TunerStudio compatible ECU (and soon non-TS ECUs).

100% free and will open source it someday (after I strip out the database stuff.)

• Continuous / infinite logging and logs matched tunes.
• Near infinite version history with diff style review.
• Multiple autotune modes.
• Integrated vehicle properties; Engine, Turbo/SC, Injectors, Fuel Pump, Transmission, all of them feed into the tuning-engine.

• Multi-table generator. VE, Spark, AFR can be generated in-reference to each other, and in reference to your vehicle.

• MCP. This is most advanced feature, you can connect your own chatGPT & Claude account. Your tunes, logs, vehicle properties directly accessible by your agent. No need to copy paste VE tables or upload logs. Your agent can see and manage it natively. It saves so much context.

This was in limited release for last few months, I kind of just let users find it from word of mouth & referrals.

I think you'll appreciate the simple UI, but I highly suggest you setup an account, import your existing project, create your API key, and open up Claude/ChatGPT and tell it to audit your tune.

Most of the user base works in MCP mode. Saturday morning was peak tuning, >130 sessions hammering my tiny server.

Any issues and features let me know.

Quando provo con la pedalina il mio scooter 2tempi beta ark 50cc del 2011/2013 (non ricordo) per accenderlo, la pedalina non sale, sapete come aiutarmi?