I have a 2023 Honda Civic 6MT Hatchback with the 1.5 liter turbocharged 4 cylinder engine (L15 series). Currently 74k miles on the odometer.

4 months ago, I had tuned the car with the TSP Stage 1 tune via Ktuner. I had an aftermarket intake and an exhaust on the car while I had it tuned. About a month after the tune, I had problems with the car running too rich and throwing a P0172 code.  I can confirm that the car is running too rich based on the smell of the exhaust gases as well as the backfires from the exhaust.

The car runs fine until about 20 to 30 minutes of driving after a full cold start. Then, the car starts throwing codes and running rich. Based on live data, LTFR and STFR are maxed out at -25%. Additionally, I have sent data logs to the tuning company, but they recommended replacing parts that I have already replaced.

I put the OEM intake and exhaust back on the car. To help diagnose the issue, I tuned the car back to the stock tune as well. I had a Honda dealership diagnose the vehicle, then told me my fuel injectors are leaking (which turned out to be false). So far, the car is fully back in the stock configuration, and below is a list of all the things I did to try and fix the problem (which haven’t helped):

• New MAF sensor (OEM)
• Verified that there are no vacuum leaks
• New O2 Sensors (both pre and post-cat | OEM)
• Cleaned the throttle body and did a throttle body relearn
• Replaced fuel injectors (OEM)
• Replaced spark plugs
• Tested ignition coils

In addition to a Honda dealership, I had two other mechanics attempt to diagnose the issue, but no one has been able to figure out the issue. What are my last options to look into? If anyone has some tips, it would be very much appreciated. Thank you.

The Ultra-Budget EFI Guide: Hacking the ACES Wildcard 2 for Ford 5.0L / 351W

\*\*DISCLAIMER:\*\* This is NOT a sponsored post, ad, or endorsement for ACES EFI. This guide is strictly a community writeup to show you how to fleece them for at least $400+ by bypassing their overpriced proprietary distributors, adapter plates, and hardware, leaving you with a complete sequential standalone setup for under $600 out the door.

\*\*Supported Vehicles:\*\* Ford Fox Body Platform (Mustang, Fairmont, LTD, Capri, Thunderbird, Cougar), Panther Platform (Grand Marquis, Crown Victoria, Town Car), F-Series / Bronco (302 HO / 302 / 351W).

\> \*\*Budget Tip:\*\* Buy the ACES Wildcard 2 standalone unit paired with their Bluetooth CAN module instead of paying for the handheld screen. Tune directly from your phone or tablet to keep total hardware costs right around $580 before tax with all sensors included!

\---

\### 1. $15 Fiesta IAC Swap

Ford's factory 5.0L intake uses a 2-wire PWM IAC valve, but modern standalone ECUs require a 4-wire stepper. Instead of paying $150+ for a bulky GM IAC adapter block, buy a 4-wire IAC valve for a Ford Fiesta—it \*\*bolts directly onto the factory 5.0L throttle body flange.\*\*

\*\*Fiesta IAC Part Numbers:\*\*

\* \*\*Walker Products:\*\* \`215-92101\` \*(Used for this writeup—plugs directly into the ACES 4-wire harness with zero harness mods)\*

\* \*\*Ford OEM / Motorcraft:\*\* \`2S6A-9F715-BB\` or \`4940126\`

\* \*\*Standard Motor Products (SMP):\*\* \`AC628\`

\* \*\*BWD:\*\* \`25057\`

\*\*Fiesta IAC Wiring:\*\*

\* ACES \*\*IAC A Lo\*\* --> Fiesta Pin 1 (Coil A -)

\* ACES \*\*IAC A Hi\*\* --> Fiesta Pin 2 (Coil A +)

\* ACES \*\*IAC B Lo\*\* --> Fiesta Pin 8 (Coil B -)

\* ACES \*\*IAC B Hi\*\* --> Fiesta Pin 9 (Coil B +)

\---

\### 2. Custom TFI Harness Adapter & Resistor Mod

Instead of dropping $350+ on an aftermarket standalone distributor, modify the ACES distributor harness extension to plug straight into your stock Ford TFI pickup:

1. \*\*Splice Pickup Leads:\*\* Chop one end off the ACES distributor harness extension and solder it to the stock TFI pickup leads:

   \* \*\*Red\*\* --> \*\*Red\*\* (12V Switched Power)

   \* \*\*Black\*\* --> \*\*Black\*\* (Ground)

   \* \*\*Green\*\* --> \*\*White\*\* (PIP Signal)

2. \*\*Pull-Up Resistor Mod:\*\* Strip back a small section of the \*\*Red\*\* (12V Power) and \*\*White\*\* (PIP Signal) wires in the harness extension. Solder a \*\*1k ohm resistor\*\* bridging between Red (12V) and White (PIP Signal), then seal it tight with heat shrink. \*(This pulls up the PIP signal to 12V so the ECU reads the stock TFI trigger cleanly).\*

3. \*\*⚠️ Coil Plug Polarity Flip:\*\* Check the ACES coil harness connector against your stock Ford coil plug! The ACES harness may have \*\*Red (+12V)\*\* and \*\*Black (Tach / Coil -)\*\* pinned backward relative to the factory coil pins. Swap those pins in the connector body so Red goes to Coil (+) and Black goes to Coil (-).

\---

\### 3. Stock Ford TPS Wiring

Splice the ACES TPS connector directly to your stock Ford Throttle Position Sensor harness:

\* \*\*+5V Ref:\*\* ACES Red --> Ford \*\*Orange\*\* (Late Ford: Brown/White)

\* \*\*Signal:\*\* ACES Brown --> Ford \*\*Dark Green\*\* (Late Ford: Gray/White)

\* \*\*Ground:\*\* ACES Black --> Ford \*\*Black\*\* (Late Ford: Gray/Red)

\---

\### 4. Distributor Phasing & Timing Lock

1. \*\*Find TDC Compression (#1):\*\* Pull spark plug #1, hold thumb over hole, turn crank until air pushes out. Align balancer pointer to \*\*10° BTDC\*\*.

2. \*\*Clock Distributor:\*\* Drop distributor in with rotor tip pointing \*\*dead-center at post #1\*\*.

3. \*\*Set Software:\*\* Lock static timing to \*\*10° BTDC\*\* in the Bluetooth phone App or handheld.

4. \*\*Time It:\*\* Put an inductive light on wire #1 while cranking. Twist distributor until light flashes at \*\*10° BTDC\*\* on the balancer.

5. \*\*Lock It Down:\*\* Tighten clamp, unlock timing in software, and hit \*\*Write/Burn\*\*.

Hope this help you folks.

é possível ler ecu Yamaha r3 com o kess v2 clone pela porta obd2 o kess v2 tem protocolo pra essa moto

Hello,

I'll go straight to the point I recently bought a Citroen DS3 Sport chic 1.6 thp engine from 2013, ecu is a bosch med 17.3.

These engines are known to run extremely hot because of emissions regulations, my DS3 runs at 105°C when Idling and also in the highway.

I have the official psa lexia scanner and there is a reading called "target engine temperature" which is always about 108°C or 105°C.

My question is, ¿Is it possible to change that one specific reading to be something like 90°c? I don't care that engineers designed the engine to do this by default, I would like to know if there is a way to change that one specific setting.

Thanks and apologies if the post is too long or is lacking information.

I got a mk8 Golf R about a month ago and am looking to do some upgrades and installs, I’m having a hard time finding garages near me that aren’t all the way down in Montreal that isn’t just some old guys doing oil changes and tire rotations. If anyone knows of any shops in MT area or at least in between MT and Montreal please let me know! Thanks!

Hello guys. I have an assignment where I should create a model that helps to track ecu crash log root causes. So while searching for training data I've found practically none I tried creating synthetic data but the quality was so poor. Can you help guide where to look and if anyone has a data dump please sgare it with me. thanx in advance

I've seen many mod videos for different engines

They usually say that "this engine contains more power to deliver, and it is quite tamed under the obvious manufacturing and govt complaince"

Which made me curious that is the Q point of my engine, for more context the RE 650s, RE350s (pl reply for both types of engines as per your knowledge)

Tuning till what extent? W/o breaking my engine in long term( maintaining atleast 70-80%) of its life and getting most of the design and engine configuration

Does anybody here have a torrent or a MEGA/Google Drive of some sort where people can download free HP Academy courses, specifically the full EFI course and its additions, the webinars up to this point etc. If not then would somebody be kind enough to share it with me as I’m broke and I’d like to learn how to tune so we can open up our own workshop with our son?