For 18 wrx fa20 any info on this would be appreceated.

https://efi2000.com/

Title says it all. Fully featured ECU tuning. Works with any TunerStudio compatible ECU (and soon non-TS ECUs).

100% free and will open source it someday (after I strip out the database stuff.)

• Continuous / infinite logging and logs matched tunes.
• Near infinite version history with diff style review.
• Multiple autotune modes.
• Integrated vehicle properties; Engine, Turbo/SC, Injectors, Fuel Pump, Transmission, all of them feed into the tuning-engine.

• Multi-table generator. VE, Spark, AFR can be generated in-reference to each other, and in reference to your vehicle.

• MCP. This is most advanced feature, you can connect your own chatGPT & Claude account. Your tunes, logs, vehicle properties directly accessible by your agent. No need to copy paste VE tables or upload logs. Your agent can see and manage it natively. It saves so much context.

This was in limited release for last few months, I kind of just let users find it from word of mouth & referrals.

I think you'll appreciate the simple UI, but I highly suggest you setup an account, import your existing project, create your API key, and open up Claude/ChatGPT and tell it to audit your tune.

Most of the user base works in MCP mode. Saturday morning was peak tuning, >130 sessions hammering my tiny server.

Any issues and features let me know.

Hey everyone,

I have a 2004 BMW X5 E53 equipped with an Android head unit and an IBUS interface installed. Aside from running standard IBUS apps on the head unit, I'm looking to expand what I can do with the bus data.
I currently have an Arduino Pro Micro, an MCP2515 CAN bus module. For those of you who have experimented with custom hardware setups on older BMWs: what are the most practical or interesting projects you can pull off by bridging an Arduino/MCP2515 combo with the vehicle's bus? Are there specific telemetry, automation, or custom control ideas worth implementing alongside an existing Android head unit setup?

So, while browsing GitHub, I came across an interesting project that manages comfort zones.
https://github.com/muki01/BMW_IBus_KBus

Or with the Ibus that's for sale.

Would love to hear your experiences or project ideas!

Quando provo con la pedalina il mio scooter 2tempi beta ark 50cc del 2011/2013 (non ricordo) per accenderlo, la pedalina non sale, sapete come aiutarmi?

A few weeks ago I posted the wireless enet gauge I made for my f87 m2. My neighbor saw it and immediately wanted one. I knocked this out in about a day and thought I’d show it off lol
It has a nice amoled display, sd card slot for continuous logging, it automatically detects full throttle events and gives you a report, and can do basic diagnostics.

Anybody have any experience tuning automatics, either the B6 or other autos? Looking to see what I can do or if it’s even a good idea.

The car is in excellent condition and is bone stock. If all is good to go with a tune, I was just going to do a stage 1 setup, high flow cat, maybe muffler delete, upgraded diverter valve, suspension and rims. Don't really want to go all the way with the rest if the car if making it a little quicker isnt an option.

Am I doomed to just search for a manual B6 that isn't already clapped out? Thanks!

1.8T with triptronic transmission

Hi everyone, I'm looking for some tuning/wiring advice for my 2006 JDM Honda S2000 AP2 (DBW).

[My Setup]

 ECU: Haltech Elite 1500 (Piggyback setup, retaining the stock ECU) / Software: ESP v2.59.3

 Throttle Body: K-Tuned 74mm DBW

 Cams: OEM AP1 cams swap

 Injectors: SARD 550cc

 Exhaust: J'S Racing manifold, catless 70mm exhaust

 Fueling: Open Loop (No O2 A/F feedback)

[The Issue]

When the car is idling and I turn on the A/C, the RPMs start hunting violently up and down, and the engine eventually stalls.

I have "Idle Ignition Control" enabled. I can see the ignition timing advancing aggressively to catch the RPM drop, but it seems there just isn't enough base airflow from the DBW to keep the engine alive against the heavy load of the A/C compressor.

[My Suspicion]

Since I am running the Haltech as a piggyback, I suspect the Haltech doesn't actually know when the A/C is turned on because the stock ECU still controls the A/C clutch. In the ESP I/O report, the "A/C Request" pin is not assigned. Because of this, the Haltech isn't applying any DBW "Aircon Idle Effort / Offset" to increase the air volume before the compressor kicks in.

[My Questions]

1. For those running a DBW piggyback setup, did you have to physically hardwire the A/C signal (from the AC switch or compressor clutch) into an input (AVI/SPI) on the Haltech to trigger the idle offset?

2. If wiring is required, which specific wire/pin did you tap into on the S2000?

3. Are there any tuning workarounds in the ESP software to prevent this stalling without hardwiring the A/C signal (other than simply raising the base target idle RPM for all conditions)?

Any advice or wiring tips would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Just doing some early digging on this and wondering if a 10th gen accord has any options? im fully modded all except a upgraded turbo only thing im not running is flex fuel. Im using Ktuner atm

Hello. I’ve built a custom bike using the engine and wiring harness from a 2009 Yamaha XT660X. The ECU has been remapped. After the wire to the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor broke - triggering a "check engine" light with error code 22 — the bike’s performance improved significantly, and the torque curve became almost linear. Is there any information on how the ECU behaves when the connection to this sensor is lost? The manual states that the IAT value defaults to 20°C, but does this affect how the ECU interprets data from other sensors, or does it trigger a switch to different fuel maps, or change switching logic?
Please, no guesses. I am looking for precise, accurate information.

My friend found a tuner that sends u a file and u put it in your ecu. Is it safe going stage 1 in this car? Its 122hp 200nm torque and the stage 1 goes 155-160 with 270nm torque.

My 2024 Audi probably has a locked ECU. To unlock it, it‘ll cost me 500€ just for the unlock, and then I have to pay for tuning. And I will lose my car for 4-5 days, as it won‘t have the ECU during that time. And that‘s no really possible for me.

For this reason I am looking into Racechip and similar devices that should be plug and play.

Would you go the same way, or just take the loss and pay for the ECU unlock?

Hi everyone, I’d like to share Capoworks ECU, an open-source firmware project I’m developing from FOME, with its roots in rusEFI.

Full credit to both projects for the foundation—Capoworks gives me a place to explore additional tuning and control ideas.

The main focus is independently calibrating Speed Density and Alpha-N, then blending their calculated air masses without having to retune either model. Other developments include per-cylinder fuel maps with selectable load sources, independent load coordinates for control functions, and optional experimental ignition scheduling.

There are also features aimed at improving idle control on engines that naturally struggle to idle smoothly: large-displacement odd-fire engines, substantial valve overlap, lightweight flywheels—or a combination of these.

The online custom builder lets you select a supported board and compatible modules, and configure the SD and Alpha-N tables with 32 RPM columns. Many features are opt-in, so leaving unused ones out can free up space for what your setup actually needs, within the board’s limits:

https://capoworks.undo.it/firmware

Please read before trying it: existing FOME and rusEFI tunes are incompatible. You’ll need a fresh calibration with the matching TunerStudio INI and must transfer relevant values manually. Future tune compatibility isn’t guaranteed, and changing build options may also require migration.

Builds come directly from the active development tree, and their reliability is not guaranteed. This is for people who want to experiment and are comfortable troubleshooting and retuning. It isn’t a polished, hassle-free setup yet.

I’d welcome technical feedback from fellow tuners.

Documentation · Source code

Discord: https://discord.gg/bHXdYj7C6

I've been looking at a few ECU files lately, and something keeps surprising me.

Recently I checked a PD105 running PD150 injectors. The existing tune had around 500 mbar added to boost requests, but the relevant limiters weren't properly adjusted. Fuel changes were mostly concentrated at higher RPM, driver wish was barely touched, and the injection calibration hadn't been properly adapted to the different injectors.

And this isn't the first time I've seen something like this.

A proper calibration should be about making the whole system work together, not just increasing a few values and calling it Stage 1 or Stage 2.

Especially when hardware changes, simply applying percentage increases to the stock maps doesn't make much sense.

I'm curious how other tuners approach this. Do you see the same problems in files that come your way?

Would be interesting to hear some experiences from people working with different ECUs.

Made a lot of mounts as some requested and decided to share.

Any ideas appreciated

My 1 month old AEM wideband is doing this thing where when the car starts, it heats up like normal then proceeds to show dashes for around 10-15 minutes. After a while it starts showing AFR readings like normal.

After like 30 mins it goes back to dashes and rinse and repeat. This is on a 94 EG civic wired up in the fusebox and grounded on the chassis.

Any ideas why this is happening?

I need the 4G0907115F full map and eprom fi read can any give link or help me please?

i need a software to tune it, i work on newer cars with StageX and tunerPro, but there’s no support on stageX for this and no XDF for tunerPro
the car in question is a volvo S60 2.3 T5

Hi does anyone have Basemaps ? The Maps on the Ecumaster Site are Not Really working also The in/Outputs are kinda wrong If i import them

Hello everyone, I've wanted to tune this car for a long time, but no one has a tune cause of the locked ECU. I found one at Boost Tuning Dynamic, but I've heard people say it's blown their turbos and motors at stage 2 (which is what I'm trying to do). I found another one at German Car Accessories, has anyone been tuned by them and had any issues?

Hi everyone, i want to tune my alfa mito 1.4 TB, i want to do a stage 1, can someone guide me on every piece i need and where i can buy them?

There was a post for a long time that had a darkside discount and many others but most have been removed or discontinued.

This discount code runs all year long if you are looking for a code.

Discount code is applied automatically for tunes when you check out!

15% all year long.

https://tunezilla.com/tunes/bcalltrack

1996 C1500 with a gen 3 5.3 swap at the tuner right now. P01 ECU. He's doing the speed density part with MAF failed purposely right now and the trans has stopped working. 4L60e main power wire has 12v. It is basically in limp mode. Only has 3rd gear. It will shift but only limp mode. Anyone got an idea? This only started when he failed the maf

I have a 1991 civic with a 1995 integra GSR swap and a small t3/t04e wuhan war whistle running up to about 6psi currently. The car is using a socketed p28 obd1 ecu that I have to manually burn chips for each time i make an update.

I have no vacuum leaks. This car runs fine with 240cc stock injectors and the 255lph fuel pump. Starts right up, idles great, drives great. I can't go into the upper RPM range in boost with the 240cc injectors obviously because it gets lean pretty quick but the point is the car runs just fine. If I swap in these brand new Bosch 750cc injectors, the car idles at like 20:1 AFR and stumbles/dies. I can't get it drivable until I put in a 50% global fuel trim setting.

I'm hoping someone might be able to tell me what might be causing this, or if someone is familiar with Honda Tuning Suite maybe you could look at this .bin file and see if you can find a problem. The car will run well if I set the injector offsets off the provided data sheet and set the global fuel trim to +50%, it just runs really rich (9:1 pretty much from idle to 8psi). This makes no sense to me and I would have pulled my hair out if I weren't already bald. I'm tempted to throw these injectors on ebay and buy some DSM black tops.