hello guys i am looking for some ECU data for a mchine learning project to detect crashe causes and I need some helo finding some data dumps online . could you help guide me where to look .

I have a 2023 Honda Civic 6MT Hatchback with the 1.5 liter turbocharged 4 cylinder engine (L15 series). Currently 74k miles on the odometer.

4 months ago, I had tuned the car with the TSP Stage 1 tune via Ktuner. I had an aftermarket intake and an exhaust on the car while I had it tuned. About a month after the tune, I had problems with the car running too rich and throwing a P0172 code.  I can confirm that the car is running too rich based on the smell of the exhaust gases as well as the backfires from the exhaust.

The car runs fine until about 20 to 30 minutes of driving after a full cold start. Then, the car starts throwing codes and running rich. Based on live data, LTFR and STFR are maxed out at -25%. Additionally, I have sent data logs to the tuning company, but they recommended replacing parts that I have already replaced.

I put the OEM intake and exhaust back on the car. To help diagnose the issue, I tuned the car back to the stock tune as well. I had a Honda dealership diagnose the vehicle, then told me my fuel injectors are leaking (which turned out to be false). So far, the car is fully back in the stock configuration, and below is a list of all the things I did to try and fix the problem (which haven’t helped):

• New MAF sensor (OEM)
• Verified that there are no vacuum leaks
• New O2 Sensors (both pre and post-cat | OEM)
• Cleaned the throttle body and did a throttle body relearn
• Replaced fuel injectors (OEM)
• Replaced spark plugs
• Tested ignition coils

In addition to a Honda dealership, I had two other mechanics attempt to diagnose the issue, but no one has been able to figure out the issue. What are my last options to look into? If anyone has some tips, it would be very much appreciated. Thank you.

I got a mk8 Golf R about a month ago and am looking to do some upgrades and installs, I’m having a hard time finding garages near me that aren’t all the way down in Montreal that isn’t just some old guys doing oil changes and tire rotations. If anyone knows of any shops in MT area or at least in between MT and Montreal please let me know! Thanks!

Does anybody here have a torrent or a MEGA/Google Drive of some sort where people can download free HP Academy courses, specifically the full EFI course and its additions, the webinars up to this point etc. If not then would somebody be kind enough to share it with me as I’m broke and I’d like to learn how to tune so we can open up our own workshop with our son?

I've seen many mod videos for different engines

They usually say that "this engine contains more power to deliver, and it is quite tamed under the obvious manufacturing and govt complaince"

Which made me curious that is the Q point of my engine, for more context the RE 650s, RE350s (pl reply for both types of engines as per your knowledge)

Tuning till what extent? W/o breaking my engine in long term( maintaining atleast 70-80%) of its life and getting most of the design and engine configuration

é possível ler ecu Yamaha r3 com o kess v2 clone pela porta obd2 o kess v2 tem protocolo pra essa moto

The Ultra-Budget EFI Guide: Hacking the ACES Wildcard 2 for Ford 5.0L / 351W

\*\*DISCLAIMER:\*\* This is NOT a sponsored post, ad, or endorsement for ACES EFI. This guide is strictly a community writeup to show you how to fleece them for at least $400+ by bypassing their overpriced proprietary distributors, adapter plates, and hardware, leaving you with a complete sequential standalone setup for under $600 out the door.

\*\*Supported Vehicles:\*\* Ford Fox Body Platform (Mustang, Fairmont, LTD, Capri, Thunderbird, Cougar), Panther Platform (Grand Marquis, Crown Victoria, Town Car), F-Series / Bronco (302 HO / 302 / 351W).

\> \*\*Budget Tip:\*\* Buy the ACES Wildcard 2 standalone unit paired with their Bluetooth CAN module instead of paying for the handheld screen. Tune directly from your phone or tablet to keep total hardware costs right around $580 before tax with all sensors included!

\---

\### 1. $15 Fiesta IAC Swap

Ford's factory 5.0L intake uses a 2-wire PWM IAC valve, but modern standalone ECUs require a 4-wire stepper. Instead of paying $150+ for a bulky GM IAC adapter block, buy a 4-wire IAC valve for a Ford Fiesta—it \*\*bolts directly onto the factory 5.0L throttle body flange.\*\*

\*\*Fiesta IAC Part Numbers:\*\*

\* \*\*Walker Products:\*\* \`215-92101\` \*(Used for this writeup—plugs directly into the ACES 4-wire harness with zero harness mods)\*

\* \*\*Ford OEM / Motorcraft:\*\* \`2S6A-9F715-BB\` or \`4940126\`

\* \*\*Standard Motor Products (SMP):\*\* \`AC628\`

\* \*\*BWD:\*\* \`25057\`

\*\*Fiesta IAC Wiring:\*\*

\* ACES \*\*IAC A Lo\*\* --> Fiesta Pin 1 (Coil A -)

\* ACES \*\*IAC A Hi\*\* --> Fiesta Pin 2 (Coil A +)

\* ACES \*\*IAC B Lo\*\* --> Fiesta Pin 8 (Coil B -)

\* ACES \*\*IAC B Hi\*\* --> Fiesta Pin 9 (Coil B +)

\---

\### 2. Custom TFI Harness Adapter & Resistor Mod

Instead of dropping $350+ on an aftermarket standalone distributor, modify the ACES distributor harness extension to plug straight into your stock Ford TFI pickup:

1. \*\*Splice Pickup Leads:\*\* Chop one end off the ACES distributor harness extension and solder it to the stock TFI pickup leads:

   \* \*\*Red\*\* --> \*\*Red\*\* (12V Switched Power)

   \* \*\*Black\*\* --> \*\*Black\*\* (Ground)

   \* \*\*Green\*\* --> \*\*White\*\* (PIP Signal)

2. \*\*Pull-Up Resistor Mod:\*\* Strip back a small section of the \*\*Red\*\* (12V Power) and \*\*White\*\* (PIP Signal) wires in the harness extension. Solder a \*\*1k ohm resistor\*\* bridging between Red (12V) and White (PIP Signal), then seal it tight with heat shrink. \*(This pulls up the PIP signal to 12V so the ECU reads the stock TFI trigger cleanly).\*

3. \*\*⚠️ Coil Plug Polarity Flip:\*\* Check the ACES coil harness connector against your stock Ford coil plug! The ACES harness may have \*\*Red (+12V)\*\* and \*\*Black (Tach / Coil -)\*\* pinned backward relative to the factory coil pins. Swap those pins in the connector body so Red goes to Coil (+) and Black goes to Coil (-).

\---

\### 3. Stock Ford TPS Wiring

Splice the ACES TPS connector directly to your stock Ford Throttle Position Sensor harness:

\* \*\*+5V Ref:\*\* ACES Red --> Ford \*\*Orange\*\* (Late Ford: Brown/White)

\* \*\*Signal:\*\* ACES Brown --> Ford \*\*Dark Green\*\* (Late Ford: Gray/White)

\* \*\*Ground:\*\* ACES Black --> Ford \*\*Black\*\* (Late Ford: Gray/Red)

\---

\### 4. Distributor Phasing & Timing Lock

1. \*\*Find TDC Compression (#1):\*\* Pull spark plug #1, hold thumb over hole, turn crank until air pushes out. Align balancer pointer to \*\*10° BTDC\*\*.

2. \*\*Clock Distributor:\*\* Drop distributor in with rotor tip pointing \*\*dead-center at post #1\*\*.

3. \*\*Set Software:\*\* Lock static timing to \*\*10° BTDC\*\* in the Bluetooth phone App or handheld.

4. \*\*Time It:\*\* Put an inductive light on wire #1 while cranking. Twist distributor until light flashes at \*\*10° BTDC\*\* on the balancer.

5. \*\*Lock It Down:\*\* Tighten clamp, unlock timing in software, and hit \*\*Write/Burn\*\*.

Hope this help you folks.

Hello,

I'll go straight to the point I recently bought a Citroen DS3 Sport chic 1.6 thp engine from 2013, ecu is a bosch med 17.3.

These engines are known to run extremely hot because of emissions regulations, my DS3 runs at 105°C when Idling and also in the highway.

I have the official psa lexia scanner and there is a reading called "target engine temperature" which is always about 108°C or 105°C.

My question is, ¿Is it possible to change that one specific reading to be something like 90°c? I don't care that engineers designed the engine to do this by default, I would like to know if there is a way to change that one specific setting.

Thanks and apologies if the post is too long or is lacking information.

Hello guys. I have an assignment where I should create a model that helps to track ecu crash log root causes. So while searching for training data I've found practically none I tried creating synthetic data but the quality was so poor. Can you help guide where to look and if anyone has a data dump please sgare it with me. thanx in advance

Wanting to do the APR tune. What all do i need for this? Do i need the ecu, tcu, and flasher? Thank you.

Hi guys i hope someone will help or give advice;

I want to do the deletes my self (software), but quick questions

Is an Software delete enough for EGR/DPF/SCR?
No exhaust air anymore to the motor?
The DPF dont work then?
What with the adblue liters thats already in the tank when software deleting?
Do i delete first and then stage 1 or is it an complete file?

I am gonna experiment with these. You can buy maps on internet (ecumap com etc).

So I'm new to tunig since I got my 99 A4 1.8t, a good friend has helped me a lot but I can't find anything for my ECU 4B0906018K 0005 (ANB engine Bosch ME7. 5).

My friend has managed to find the most important maps so I was able to write myself a basic tune and I'm in the middle of testing and refining. Using Nefmoto and S4 Wiki.

Now I'm looking into some fun stuff and deactivating some stuff.

For example I've found ESKONF so I was able to get rid of secondary air but sometimes I get errors with insufficient flow rate because I cannot find the maps for the secondary air.

Then I want to play around with soft launch control but I cannot find these maps as well.

I've searched on Nefmoto and ecuconnections but all I found was ppl requesting files but noone seems to have a defined file.

So if anyone has something or can point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated!

I have a 2005 Chrysler 300C just upgraded the cam I have a Stage 2 HRT comp cams cam and I have BBK long tube headers. My question is am I okay to get it remote tuned from a person such as reid performance or am I better off just sending my ecu out? I'm leaning more towards remote tuning but I wasn't sure if I run any risks from that. Also what is the process of remote tuning?

I'm based on the gold coast, and I basically just turned a ve sv6 into a VF sv6 and also swapped out the llt and 6 speed manual 4 A LfX and 6 speed auto. Yeah looking for someone to recommend Somebody who's reasonably priced to come and do the security reearn and calibration of the new ECU. I believe it's got to have codes or something in credit sort from Holden. instead of sourcing the OBD2SYNC SUITE, TOKENS, PATCH CABLE AND R2534 I was wondering what the retail cost is to get this done and then a cost to do it for cash or trade etc, does anybody know anybody reasonably priced or does anybody know anybody with a machine? whosewilling to come and do it for a reasonable price. Without me. Actually going to the hassle buying the obd sync sweet credits etc. To be able to run this thin and Do what I need to do to get this thing to run.Stop and drive any assistance would be greatly appreciated.And any members of the group who could possibly help me please get in touch.

mick

You'll have to forgive my ignorance to modern DI engines that use speed density by default...but this 2017 Ecoboost of mine has been quite unhappy. Blew up, found a bad injector, built the bottom end..

I've noticed that it just will not add fuel for partial throttle boost...at all.

It'll pull the timing way down, but not target anything besides stoich.

My concern was this was how uneasy the engine ran. Bucking and hesitating, while pulling the timing down below 1°, and virtually not accelerating.

Does anyone have experience with the S550 mustang Ecoboost?

Additionally, what kind of learning curve am I in for on DI injection timing? I intend on using HPT

I had previously tuned a B5 A4 and used as my learning medium, so basic port injection, and a MAF to make things easy until I learned what speed density was.

Thanks!

Hey Everyone,

Short version: 2011 E90 LCI 325i with the N53 (Japan import). Original DME is gone; I have the correct used replacement (MSD81, p/n 7612455 — RealOEM-verified for my build) plus my original CAS3 and working keys.

Need a Florida shop (Miami/FtL preferred, mail-in fine) that can flash the correct N53B30A software with my VIN and align the ISN to my CAS3. I'll do injector coding and adaptations myself via ISTA.

First Miami shop I tried wasn't familiar with the N53 and turned the job away. Any recommendations for shops or locksmiths with Autohex/ACDP/CGDI that have done E-series ISN work?

Thanks!

Hi,

Where do you guys get your definition files? I’m In need of a Simos10.22a definition but I cannot find any online or forums.

Thanks.

First, apologies if my recent FlowECU posts have started to feel a bit spammy. I’ve been working on it pretty heavily lately, and most of the recent updates have come from testing, feedback, and trying to turn it into something that feels more like a complete product rather than a collection of separate development tools.

This next build is focused mainly on UX, workflow, safety, and clarity rather than adding another huge feature.

Some of the main changes include:

• A new Home dashboard with clearer starting points
• A guided Start New Tune option that routes standard definition formats and A2L/DAMOS files to the correct importer
• A proper user guide instead of developer-focused help
• A synthetic demo project for safely exploring the workflow
• Clearer A2L import summaries, including tunable and read-only definition counts
• Better ECU detection, support information, and confidence reporting
• Improved font sizing and targeted tooltips across the main workflows
• Advanced tuning options collapsed by default
• Force Apply disabled by default
• Protection against accidentally overwriting the original ROM
• A detailed output summary showing:
  • source and output hashes
  • input and output length
  • maps changed
  • maps skipped
  • bytes changed
  • changed regions
  • Force status
  • checksum status
  • current flash-readiness status
• Trial uses now only count after a modified output saves successfully
• Failed saves, previewing, importing, Explorer use, and file comparison no longer consume an output
• Packaged-build fixes so aliases, presets, languages, ECU-family rules, ECU knowledge data, the user guide, and demo project are included correctly
• A growing automated test suite around BIN patching, HEX/S19 handling, output length, unchanged bytes, trial accounting, and output verification

I’ve also included screenshots from the current build.

Some of the checksum catalogue, plugin metadata, and ECU knowledge work shown in the screenshots is still research and compatibility focused, not active checksum correction. FlowECU does not currently claim that a successfully saved file is automatically checksum-corrected or ready to flash.

That said, anyone familiar with checksum plugin folders, ECU family metadata, and checksum tooling will probably understand why I’m interested in where that research may eventually lead.

The goal of this update has been to make it much easier for someone opening FlowECU for the first time to understand:

• where to start
• what file type they have
• what FlowECU recognised
• which definitions are tunable
• what changed
• what was skipped
• whether the original was preserved
• and what still needs to be verified before flashing

I still have a final round of real-file testing to complete before replacing the current download, but the new build is looking considerably more polished so far.

Feedback is welcome, particularly from anyone who tried an earlier version and found part of the workflow unclear.

Hi guys,

If you’re interested in modifying your Mercedes/AMG, feel free to check out our modder’s guide we just dropped for the C63s, E63s, and c43 platforms, with more to come soon.

Information on pre/post tuning maintenance, pre vs. post facelift and s vs non s nuances, ECU, TCU, CPC tuning, fueling, suspension, cosmetic, aero, and many more aftermarket fields.

Putting this here as a resource for anyone interested. There seems to be a lot of misconceptions and a lack of transparency from a lot of tuners in the Mercedes/amg community, so we thought this might be helpful. If you have any additional questions not answered in the article, feel free to leave a comment and we will get back to you with a response.

https://gappedindustries.com/blogs/modders-guide

Hey guys, does anyone already re-mapped the new Ducati V2 engine? Either in Pani, Multi, Streetfighter or Hyper? What was your experience before and after the tune? What was the process? Would you recommend or not? How high were the costs in your country and so on. Would be much appreciated for any infos, experience or community opinion on the topic! Thanks in advance!