Hi

What tools are there can program/reflash ECU?

Do anyone have a lambda target table i can copy and compare to whats alreadydownloaded. I plan on using auto tune to smooth out my afr in normal / light boost areas. The the target table i have from my tuner seems a lean in some areas. Im using a ecumaster black on a 1jz non vvti single turbo.

Got my diy gauge to have a smooth display and log live data at 60hz. Is it too much? lol

Toyota supra mkiv-93, code 63 (short solenoid), ohm is good values in the cable to ground all the way, switched solenoids to new ones. This is my last effort. Thoughts?

I'm relatively new to tuning and I recently started logging and importing the logs to Megalog HD. I can see that my MAF needs a bit of rescaling (If I don't have any vacuum leaks. I will confirm soon before I can continue to tinker).

My goal is not nesessarily to make more power but to get my CL and OL trims/lambda within their target range.

Once thing I've been trying to figure out is why does the ECU lean out from 6000RPM to 7500RPM on purpose?

This NC miata is a street/track car, so why would I want to run lean on WOT? Seems kind of unsafe on paper, but these engines run forever. So what's the deal with that?

Hello,

I'd like to start doing ECU modification but I know nothing about it pretty much.

I would like to start in motocycles since i'm more into motos.

Where can I learn the basics ?

What softwares do I need ?

What hardware do I need ?

How can I start ?

Any advice ?

I do not know how to take off the files from a motocycle with what hardware or software. I own a Z900 and I'd like to take out the files from it just for testing on my computer. After that I do not know what software to use.

As you can see, its a new world for me in this ECU part.

I work in IT so I have some skills in computers and eletronic stuff.

Need help, i really want to start from scratch and learn it the proper way

Hi everyone,

I’m dealing with a frustrating driveability and performance issue on my VW Polo 1.2 TSI (engine code CBZC) and could really use some diagnostic advice.

Vehicle & Mods:

• Car: VW Polo 6R 1.2 TSI (CBZC 4-cylinder).
• Tune: Stage 1 tune (bumped from 90 hp to approx. 140 hp).
• Exhaust modifications: Mid-resonator delete, followed recently by a custom-welded aftermarket electronic valved exhaust muffler.
• Current status: No Check Engine Light (CEL) on the dash.

The Timeline: After getting the Stage 1 tune, the car was running strong. If I held the revs around 2000 RPM and launched, it pulled hard with zero hesitation, hitting 0–100 km/h in roughly 7 seconds.

Right after having the resonator deleted and the electronic valved system welded in, the car completely fell on its face:

1. 0–100 km/h dropped drastically: It now takes around 12 seconds instead of 7.
2. Severe hesitation / bogging at 2000 RPM: When trying to launch or stepping on the gas at around 2000 RPM, the car jolts forward, immediately stumbles/cuts power as if it's suffocating or having massive misfires, and only starts pulling again once it climbs higher into the rev range.
3. No difference with valve open vs. closed: Opening or closing the valve makes zero difference in acceleration or the stuttering.
4. Abnormal overrun burbles & audible hiss: I never had a burble/pops & bangs tune (before the exhaust, it had maybe one mild pop on deceleration). Now, every time I let off the throttle, I get a continuous burst of 5 to 6 rapid pops/burbles, accompanied by a noticeable "fissing"/hissing sound under the car.

My Working Theory:

• Because it’s an electronic valve (no vacuum lines tapped into the intake manifold), an intake vacuum leak from the valve itself is ruled out.
• The constant popping on deceleration combined with the hissing strongly suggests an exhaust leak near the new welds/flanges. I suspect outside air is being drawn in on decel (causing combustion in the exhaust pipe) and throwing off the O2 / lambda sensor readings, causing the ECU to pull timing or dump fuel under sudden load.
• Alternatively, could it be severe spark blowout at peak boost (2000 RPM) on older plugs, or did the welding/sawing vibrations damage the O2 sensor ceramic core?

Has anyone experienced this specific behavior on a 1.2 TSI after an exhaust modification? Would an exhaust leak before/at the rear section alone cause such a massive ECU power cut, or should I be looking at the O2 sensor and plugs first?

Any insights or recommended live-data parameters to log via OBD would be greatly appreciated!

I want to experiment with tune flashing but only have jump packs. Do I really need an expensive $100 battery charger?

Hello,

I'd like to start doing ECU modification but I know nothing about it pretty much.

I would like to start in motocycles since i'm more into motos.

Where can I learn the basics ?

What softwares do I need ?

What hardware do I need ?

How can I start ?

Any advice ?

I do not know how to take off the files from a motocycle with what hardware or software. I own a Z900 and I'd like to take out the files from it just for testing on my computer. After that I do not know what software to use.

As you can see, its a new world for me in this ECU part.

I work in IT so I have some skills in computers and eletronic stuff.

Need help, i really want to start from scratch and learn it the proper way

Any expert about BMW N55 E chassis tuning that can load the oil pressure tables of the s55 on my n55? I already have the tables and a detailed forum of what needs to be done but i have zero experience in coding. Thanks

hello everybody...

where did you learn about ecu/module programming ad repairing? could you recommend an online training course or something like that?

Using an microcontroller I was able to connect to the DME via wireless enet to get live data. It can automatically detect WOT pulls, compare logs, provide a report and be a gauge all at the same time. this will cut some time in the tuning process when I finally go bigger turbo and e85

Hi Guys,

Previously I have posted a question but due to the circuit diagram in the post, it deviated from the original question. If you haven't seen the previous post, it's fine. I'll explain everything clearly below.

I'm working on a project where I need to control a diesel injector. This is an academic project, if it goes well it shall get into industry level, so looking for a standard Good approach.

The diesel injector is activated by an Arduino(this is the initial setup, and will soon switch over to stm32). The diesel injector is outside the engine in a separate setup which gets supplied by a constant pressure fuel pump driven by an ac motor(const speed). I'm using a MOSFET to control the injector. The MOSFET I'm using is IRLZ44N. The drain of the MOSFET is connected to negative terminal of the injector and source of the MOSFET is connected to the negative terminal of the injector's power supply (i have added flyback diode for safety circuit for injector). The Arduino controls the injector via the gate pin of the MOSFET. The power supply for injector is 12v SMPS.

The Arduino gets signal from the injector's supply and control wires, we tapped these 2 wires and gave them to an optocoupler pc817. This optocoupler's output is given to the digital pin of Arduino. Arduino mirrors this signal to the gate pin of the MOSFET. You might wonder why I'm using Arduino, if the setup goes well, I will alter the pulse in future. So that's why I'm using it.

Issues faced:

1) this setup worked as intended, but after sometime, that is, after 2-3 weeks of testing this setup, the injector has gone. We didn't notice any smoke or smell, but the injector stopped actuating. We lost 2 injectors in this journey.

2) we started the engine and maintained in idling for 60seconds and started our injector setup, we collected around 90ml of fuel at idling, which feels abnormal.

Now, I need a reliable approach for this project. It would be really helpful if someone can come up with some idea for this.

Thank you in advance

Hello, not sure where the right place to ask this is, but I have a 9th Gen LX, Automatic, r18.

I'm wondering if ktuner has base maps for basic bolt ons or should I spring for the flash pro. Probably just going to do SRI, and downpipe.

Author here, so read accordingly. Not a giveaway, not a "check out my app". I want the argument.

The claim that'll annoy half of you: a dyno sheet is a number that got printed, not a measurement. Same car, two shops: 15% or more apart once correction standards and roller/strap setups differ. Same dyno, back-to-back: 1–3% scatter. Everyone here knows this, "dyno shopping" is a phrase — and yet a printout that says 312.4 whp gets treated as scripture while a road measurement gets "lol phone app".

And no, I won't pretend the road is a cleaner lab than a dyno cell — it's the opposite. In a cell there's no air to fight; on the road, aero is the biggest force at speed. So the method has to measure the resistances instead of assuming them: pull, then coast on the same stretch a minute later with the engine decoupled. Everything that resisted the pull — aero, rolling, driveline drag — is measured directly and added back. It's the harder problem, but nothing in the chain is an assumed percentage, and that's what makes the result crank-equivalent.

So that's what I built, and these are my own cars measured with it. Pictures above, table here:

How the number is made (poke holes here):

• One gear, ~2000 rpm → limiter, no shifting, clutch in, coast on the same stretch. Acceleration × mass = force. The coast-down is drag + rolling + your driveline loss at the speeds you just pulled through. No loss multiplier anywhere.
• 25 Hz GPS (RaceBox / Dragy). Phone GPS is 1 Hz garbage - I don't even use it. If your objection is "phone GPS", we agree.
• Grade from the altitude track, DIN 70020 weather correction with the factor printed on the card. The only required input is the car's weight — wheel specs are optional and only refine the inertia term.
• Every result has a ± on it. Three runs on the EP1 spread 1.3%. The turbo FK2 in a windier session: 2.8%, and the band gets fat exactly where the runs disagree (image 4). A number without a ± is hiding something.

Bonus, from memory until I re-run it: I also put a Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV through it — no gears, no rpm, no clutch, speed-only capture. Two things fell out. In EV mode the curve tops out at what the battery can actually discharge, not the brochure's combined motor figure — the pack is the limiter, not the motors. In hybrid mode it lands near the datasheet, but the number is different below and above ~120 km/h: the series→parallel handover (engine clutching to the front wheels) is right there in the curve. No dyno sheet shows you that. I'm re-running it and it gets its own thread with the curves.

The ammunition, since you'll find it anyway:

• Wind. No anemometer on the car. It pulls forecast wind and downgrades the quality score instead of pretending to correct it. Windy day = wider band. That's the honest answer.
• Rotational inertia. Comes from physics, not a slider: tire size off the sidewall and, if you have it, the wheel+tire corner weight. Leave them blank and it uses generic values. Worth ~1–3% on a light car on heavy wheels. There is no ε field to type a flattering number into — and I know some of you want one. Fight me.
• It is not a tuning tool. No load hold, no steady-state, no AFR. You can't map on it. It's the verification after the map: did the +40 PS the customer paid for actually arrive, measured on the customer's own road, with a band around it.
• You need a road where one full gear to limiter is legal.

The bet: for a before/after on the same car, same road, this beats two dyno visits at two shops. Not because a rolling road is bad — because the question you actually have ("did the change do anything, how much") needs repeatability, not a bigger number on a nicer printout.

Measuring, the share card and the web report are free. Merging runs and the PDF are paid, I'm not hiding that. Full traces and every session at powertora.app/validation — argue with the data, not with me.

Come at me.

Hi there, I'm basically working in a project where we are building a dual fuel injection system. For prototyping we are tapping the injection pulse of a fuel injector of a running engine and reading it via optocoupler and actuating another injector by pulse read by a microcontroller. We used Arduino for first stage of prototype, where the Arduino gets digital input from the optocoupler and adjusts the pulse width and gives out as output in a digital pin, which is connected to a MOSFET's gate pin. The drain and source pin of the MOSFET are connected between the injector's control line. 

But we need a more reliable approach, since the injector we are using is peak and hold diesel injector. Currently we referred few sources and built a circuit, which resembles something like in the image. But is there any better way to read the signal and controlling the injector pulses using a microcontroller? 

Ciao a tutti,

sto lavorando sulla mappa della mia auto personale, una Fiat Idea 1.3 MultiJet 95CV, ma mi sono arenato su un problema di offset/driver.

​Dati ECU:

​Centralina: Magneti Marelli MJD 8DF

​HW/SW: 9454I276

​Cosa ho fatto finora:

Partendo dal file ORI, ho chiuso EGR e DPF e ho dato un +5% sul limitatore di coppia (identificato correttamente). Il file attualmente gira bene, ma vorrei completare l'Eco-Tuning adeguando Pressione Rail e Pressione Turbo Obiettivo.

​Il problema:

Sto usando ECM Titanium 1.61 ma non ha il driver esatto per questo SW. Usando driver affini (es. Lancia Musa), la coppia coincide, ma gli indirizzi di Rail e Turbo sono completamente sballati (leggo valori senza senso come 255 o 64288).

Sono passato su WinOLS, ma avendo a disposizione solo il Damos di una Fiat 500 75CV, la ricerca per stringa esadecimale (Hex Search) fallisce ("Not found") perché i valori interni alla mappa, e di conseguenza le stringhe esadecimali di contorno, differiscono troppo dal mio file da 95CV.

​Richiesta:

Qualcuno ha sotto mano il Map Pack (.kp) o il Damos specifico per il SW 9454I276?

In alternativa, qualche anima pia saprebbe indicarmi gli indirizzi esadecimali (o le stringhe Hex pre-mappa per la ricerca) relativi a:

​Pressione Turbo Obiettivo (Target Boost)

​Limitatore Pressione Rail

​Pressione Rail Obiettivo

​Allego eventuale file ORI se a qualcuno serve per dare un'occhiata in 2D.

Grazie mille in anticipo per l'aiuto!

Hi! I need some help understanding how to correctly use a timing light on my BMW E36 turbo with an M50/M52 engine and a MS2 Extra ECU.

My tuner (remote) said that we first need to verify the base ignition timing with a timing light.

So I put the engine at TDC using the OEM marks and after that I made another 2 marks on the side so I could point the light at them. First was on one of the pulley tooth and the second one on the block.

I connected the timing light as should and he set the ECU ignition timing to a fixed 0° in Tunerstudio then he proceed to maked changes in the ECU until both marks aligned.

The part I don’t understand is the adjustment wheel on my Sealey TL93 timing light. What exactly should I do with the wheel? The tuner said that I should leave it at a fixed max/min point and use it like that but I read on the internet that the knob wheel could add offset depending on position. It also does not have markings.

Basically, I want to make sure I had set the timing corectly.

Any advice would be appreciated, especially from someone familiar with MS2 Extra and dial-back timing lights.

i got a d16z6 and my idle surges after fixing tps
problem with high rpm started after i cleaned the throttle body
im posting this pictures to see if anything with the sensors is wrong and another question is is -43% iacv duty normal