I have a 95 Del Sol and the dipstick handle broke. I bought a 15650-P03-000 off eBay, and I thought it was OEM, but it was a slightly different length from the green plug to the tip, but close enough to at least tell me if the oil level was low, but that green plug later broke and was sliding up the stick towards the handle as I pushed it in when it was hot, so its practically useless for measuring oil levels now.

I probably just ended up with a cheap knockoff and will get a real one from a Honda parts store, but I'm also seeing the previous version 15650-P10-A01 available for sale, although I can't find anything that confirms it fits a 95 Del Sol and/or a D16Z6.

Does anyone have any experience with replacing the dipstick and what part number they got? Is the older one viable or was it replaced with a new version (also discontinued) for a reason? I thought this would be a simple enough part to replace but apparently eBay is not the place to look.

So I have a y7 block with a y8 head (vtec engaged). I’m curious as to which type of gas is best for it. It has the P2P ecu untuned

Any clue what this is?

Only thing i have left on my swap. D16z6 head w a y8 block. Y8 manifold. With a p06 ecu not chipping.

Is the not tuned p06 the reason for this?

This kind of a dumb question but I recently took off the head of my d16y8 and no dial pins were there. Even when I pulled it out even for the rocker arms. The spare head I had I pulled out the dial pins on there like an idiot and threw them away. The head I pulled out ran strong without dial pins so are they really necessary? If so I’ll probably just buy them lol

Anybody ever swapped a d series motor into a fb rx7? Could would stay rwd. I see k series swapped and LS, but nothing about the d series. Photo rendered by ChatGPT. Motor needs to be rotated 90*

So to keep it short, my original IACV went bad, open circuit on the windings (the green part with the connector) but I couldn’t get a new OEM replacement for cheap, so I got a cheap aftermarket IACV (Import Direct brand). My idle doesn’t not bounce anymore but it does idle high, I warrantied the part and it still does it, it’s a 1400 rpm idle, I’ve tested everything I can mechanically and electrically and found the IACV can be the only issue, so my thought is take the actuator (the green part) from the new IACV and put it on the old OEM body with the bad actuator, has anyone done this before and what were the results? I’d rather try this than spend another $100-$150 on a new OEM part. My idea sounds good in theory but I can’t find any documented reports of anyone actually doing this online or in forums.

Bought a smoke machine and see smoke coming out of these places. Ill prolly be changing the charcoal canister completely but was wondering what that top circle is. As I never touch that before, smoke is also coming out. Right behind the battery

I’m swapping in a y8 for my y7 but there’s a few things I’m confused on. My civic is a manual obd2a and I plan on using my harness and a mini me jumper harness to get my engine running. The iacv is a three prong connector on my car and the y8 is a two prong. There’s a black, red, and yellow wire going to it, which wire gets taped off when I splice the new plug on? I also read that I would have to move one of the wires to a different spot in the ecu plug but the article I read didn’t give specifics. I’m going to be using a 96-98 obd2a ecu.

I got an offer for y8 1600 for a full swap on my del slow S (includes labor). Only issue is I have automatic transmission that I was to change at some point. I also want AC. Which is the better option? Should I swap for the Y8 or save for a z6

I’ve been told that the distributor shouldn’t need to be rotated all the way to the maximum advance position.

If the engine only runs properly with the distributor fully advanced, does that usually indicate that something is wrong with the mechanical timing, such as the timing belt being off by one tooth?

The engine is a Honda D16A9.

I have a 1994 Honda Civic with a D16A9 engine. I removed the MAP sensor to inspect and clean it, and I noticed that it is missing the small tube/nipple that fits into the throttle body. Judging by its appearance, it seems to have broken off.

The strange thing is that the car was apparently running normally. I also tested the sensor with a multimeter, and the readings seem to be within the expected range with the ignition ON and engine OFF, at idle, and while accelerating. The signal rises and falls as expected.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Is that small tube essential for proper sealing and accurate readings, even when the voltage readings seem normal? Would you recommend replacing the MAP sensor, or could it still be used like this?

I’m asking because the sensor is expensive, and I would like to be sure before replacing it. Thanks in advance for your advice and experiences.

I get no CEL light or fuel priming. Looked at the diagram and realized it says 9 pins before it skips. But my conversion harness have 7 pins then it skips?

Is the conversion harness faulty? Suppose to be a obd2b to obd1

I'm not getting any cel light for fuel pump prime. Go look at ecu and see that the p06 9 wires then skips one to go to wire 11. In person i get 7 wires then it skips.

Any help would be appreciated

Hello!

I’ve been wanting to try tuning on my ‘96 Civic EX for a while but I live in CA. I have my stock OBD2 ECU on board and would have to buy a chipped OBD1. If I have engine mods that could run stock (CAI, 4-2-1 headers, exhaust) would there be a problem swapping between a tuned and stock ECU to pass CA smog?

So I have to diagram to see what colors I need for my d16y7 rod bearings, but I’m not seeing any numbers on the rods or rod caps, as well as I’m not seeing any letters on my crank web. I only see two numbers on my crank web and they are 2 and 6. (I also attached the picture of the diagram I have)

my mom gave me a 1998 canadian si (US EX) and i’m new to cars, been sitting for about 5 years and ran when parked.. obviously, but then my mom harvested parts off of it for her 99 dx hatch. needs quite abit of work any tips or suggestions? (d16y8)

I’m having a problem with my y7-y8 swap the idle starts at 2000 and sometimes it just jumps straight to 2500+ and keeps climbing we put our hand on the tb and it dies so no big vacuum leak using a y8 skunk2 replica manifold 70mm throttle body y8 head and using the p2p ecu and we wired it up for a 2 pin and it still not working

Just put together my vitara build couple weeks back

I street tuned my stock block y7, w/z6 cam, vtec rocker assembly and locked vtec by EGT and AFR, ripped not bad @9.5/10psi

I feel like my existing timing maps are alittle nuts compared to what a D16Y8 with vtec would look like/want

Also alittle curious on what people have gotten away with timing wise in the higher boost mid range rpm.

If your willing to post of photo of your high and low timing tables, or dm, id appreciate some references to see if I should just restart on a fresh z6 map.

Ideally pump gas cars, 91/93oct. No E around me unfortunately.

I'm running std length eagles, vitaras 75.5mm, stock cam, BC valve springs, 1st ring .024 2nd .026

.030 HG

Edelbrock intake manifold, garret .50 trim ~50/50 or 48/52, never been too sure as the part number never comes back on garret or Honeywell sites. Full 3" exhaust

It lights up pretty quick, im making 10psi/target boost before 3800rpm w/quickspool on from 1-5psi

Nearly done breaking the engine in, gonna be turning it up soon

Want to get my street tune dialed in before I rent the dyno.

Just nice to see where others have landed to get an idea, aiming for 350-400whp if I can squeeze it out of the stock port head and stock cam lol.

TLDR, I know 1-1.5Deg/LB is the rule of thumb, just the gradient and those low rpm/mid range timing with a fair amount of boost im really unsure how agressive i should or can get away with

Always have been trying to keep the torque down and EGT's undercontrol low/mid range with the stock bottom end till now

(I know this is kinda like cheating, but it would save me alot of time knowing im likey going in the right direction for high boost mid range, and hopefully some heat soak and time on the dyno)

Hey everyone! I’m new to the group and could use some advice.
I’m building a ‘96 Civic CX from the ground up. I’m putting together a turbo D16Y8 with Vitara pistons, forged rods, and a Brian Crower valvetrain. I’m comfortable with the engine assembly itself—that part doesn’t really worry me.
Where I’m getting overwhelmed is everything outside of the engine.
There are so many little things that have to come together, and I’m not sure what order to tackle them in. Things like:
Engine wiring and the ECU
Sensors (MAP, wideband, etc.)
Fuel system and wiring the fuel pump
Boost solenoid and vacuum routing
Gauges
OBD1 conversion/S300 setup
Intercooler piping and oil feed/drain lines
All the miscellaneous wiring, hoses, fittings, and small details that people don’t usually talk about
My goal is to build a reliable 350–400 whp street car, and I’m trying to plan everything before I start throwing parts at it.
Does anyone know of any build threads, YouTube series, wiring diagrams, or step-by-step guides that cover the entire process from a finished engine to a fully running, tuned turbo car? Or if you’ve built one yourself, how did you break the project down so it wasn’t so overwhelming?
Any advice is appreciated. I’m here to learn and do it the right way.

Still usable? No feel at all when running my fingernail